Handling Alclad

Sorry for probably the basic question. What is the best way to handle freshly painted Alclad. Therefore, I don't want to ruin the finish.

Thanks,
Trevor

I have to say I've pretty well given up using Alclad for that very reason - it's almost untouchable for ever. You can't over-coat it with anything as it loses it's finish if you do. Finger marks can't be removed and after around a year I've found it isn't quite as 'chromey' any longer.
I now use Humbrol bright chrome in a rattle can, thinly applied over gloss black. It's ALMOST (but not quite) as good as Alclad and there's no handling probs.
On a finished kit you can hardly tell the difference.

Roy.

Hi

First of all - read the instructions on alclad2.com.

Use a correct gloss undercoat before using alclad. The very shiny colors - chrome and highly polished alumniuim needs either a Alclad gloss black undercoat or alternatively a Humbrol 21 gloss black enamel undercoat. Tamiya TS-14 will not be sufficient. These colours can be protected with Alclad Aqua Gloss (the one that looks like milk in the bottle) with only a very slight reduction in sheen.

This is my Revell McLaren MP4-25 with Alclad Chrome and Alclad Aqua gloss between decals and over decals. Works perfectly.

http://www.ipms.dk/C4-2012/images/C4_043.JPG

Flemming

I agree with Flemming.
Alclad was used on my current engine and I have handled the crud out of it putting on details and have not an issue at all.

I think with slight modification of your techniques, you will have some better lasting finishes.

Hope this helps!
Andy

Try Spaztix Mirror Chrome. I have switched and will never go back to Alclad. It is much more durable over anything. It's not as transparent and does not have the blackish hue that Alclad has over a black base. I did these wheels with it.

http://img14.picoodle.com/i5b2/935k3/grq5_525_u9fk1.jpg

the ones that can make problems for you without overcoat are
chrome, polished alu, stainless steel and gold, all other are touch proof without overcoat.

the ones that can make problems for you without overcoat are
chrome, polished alu, stainless steel and gold, all other are touch proof without overcoat.

...which is basically everything Alclad is used for.
That's why I don't bother with it any more.

Roy.

...which is basically everything Alclad is used for.
That's why I don't bother with it any more.

Roy.

Alclad has some really nice metallic paint too which are not "chrome" or high polished one. I use many of them.

All other shades of aluminium, duraluminium, white aluminium,, steel, jet exhaust, pale burned metal are fantastic and highly durable...those from post before are highly reflective ones, with almost mirror finish, but metal is not like that on most car parts, Alclad for me is must, for engine, chassis, exhaust...

Try Spaztix Mirror Chrome. I have switched and will never go back to Alclad.

Beautiful 935. Who carries it on line?

Beautiful 935. Who carries it on line?

Try having your local hobby shop order it or buy it from their website at
http://www.spazstix.com/

Try having your local hobby shop order it or buy it from their website at
http://www.spazstix.com/
Thank you 935. If we're talking about this product:
http://www.spazstix.com/mirror-chrome/10009-ultimate-mirror-chrome-aerosol-3-5oz
-I'm assuming it's an acrylic enamel?? The material is not described on their site.
If so, and using their black backer coat, can that go atop most primers? I use Tamiya's gray and white.