Right Front Hub Will Not Release from Axle

I'm at the end of my wits trying to get the right hub to release from the axle. The rental puller from AutoZone won't budge it and may now have thread damage. I've been spraying it with PowerBlaster and WD-40 frequently for the last several hours. I've also tried to tap the axle inward with a three pound deadblow and it remains more determined than me.

I'm considering replacing the hub and CV/transaxle both. The hub freely released from the steering knuckle when I pulled the hub bolts.

$64.00 question! Will the cv/transaxle assembly slide through the hole the hub mounts in?

THANKS!!!

:banghead:

I have had this problem before and there is no easy way to do this. I am not 100% sure, but I don' t think the inner joint will fit through the knuckle. If you have been hitting the splined end with a hammer, chances are good the that threads are damaged and you are committed in replacing the axle shaft. I have had some luck in using a heavy duty driver that bolts on the studs, then drives the axle out. Tighten the drive stud as much as you can, then hit the end of the drive stud to help break the axle loose, tighten the stud again and repeat the process. I have also had to use a 10lb sledge before. No saving the axle after that! Reman axles run around 60.00 for that van.

Thanks for the info. I actually already bought the reman axle thinking that was where the rumbling noise was coming from. After I got into the job and saw what was there I began thinking it might be the bearing. Unfortunately I haven't got past this point. I'll check with my local rental place tomorrow to see what they might have. In the interim I'm going to keep sprayin' and bangin' for the rest of today and if it doesn't give I'll pull the knuckle tomorrow and hit the machine shop.

Thanks for the info. I actually already bought the reman axle thinking that was where the rumbling noise was coming from. After I got into the job and saw what was there I began thinking it might be the bearing. Unfortunately I haven't got past this point. I'll check with my local rental place tomorrow to see what they might have. In the interim I'm going to keep sprayin' and bangin' for the rest of today and if it doesn't give I'll pull the knuckle tomorrow and hit the machine shop.

Having it pressed out is a good idea, be sure to have the alignment checked after you are finished (If you pull the knuckle).

Maybe I had to change hub bearings assembly early on my TS....so maybe my job was easier but my way of dislodging the shaft from the bearing is this:
- remove hub cap from wheel assembly (may have to remove wheel/tire, pop the center cap out , reinstall wheel...let it rest back to the ground with full weight of the car.. ALl of this is performed with ALL componets still in place: caliper, disk...
- Unscrew shaft nut (through the wheel) until it is FLUSH with the shaft end, hence covering the threads; letting the wheel contact with ground to block shaft rotation - at times I have someone apply the brakes- alleviates undue stress on the transmission components.
- Use a blunt object with the end covering all nut diameter (I have used harwood stick at times) and use any means (including a partner) to keep it straight on nut/shaft end and hammer with necessary conviction. (keeping the nut protects the threads, keeping wheel and weight on ground minimises motion transfer to the whole car and concentrates it on the shaft only; )
- An alternate to the above, I've used the socket itselt (that I had used to uncrew the nut) as the hammering intermediate..as I say, in my case, usually it was quite easy to get the shaft unlocked from the bearing).
Once you can feel the nut has got to the bottom of the hole, meaning the shaft is dislodged, then the rest is easy.

Hi,
I don't want to rain on your parade, but I had the exact same thing happen to me a couple years back. I took the entire steering knuckle off and proceeded to press it out on a hydraulic press. However when I did this, it split the knuckle, so I had to buy a used one at the boneyard. Only $50.00, so it wasn't too bad. Did require an alignment though as another poster alluded to. I always use Never-seez on the ones that I replace now days.

Toni