2002 Taurus 3.0 OHV Complete coolant change-WHERE do I add it?
smileyfaceguy
10-21-2012, 01:51 PM
CAR: 2002 FORD TAURUS 3.0L OHV (not dohc) 8th number of vin is 'U'.
Ok Hi, I just finished back-flushing my heater core again because last year when I did it (was hardly any heat because gunked up) I did NOT change the coolant which has been in there for 10 years already.
So
I have removed the splash shield under the bottom front and have access to both the petcock and the 'Y' outlet hose, I have a suitable pan to catch the old coolant so I can certainly get it all out but the question is:
Where do I add the 11.6 quarts of 50/50 mix that I have?
Do I just add it to the reservoir with the engine running? There seems to be a hose at the bottom front of the reservoir but I cant see where it goes and it seems to go down low and Im thinking I should add at the highest point..
Does someone know the correct procedure for REPLACING ALL of the coolant on this car? PS it is a sealed system so I am concerned about air bubbles.
below are just a couple of pics of the engine.
Thanks!
46897
46898
Ok Hi, I just finished back-flushing my heater core again because last year when I did it (was hardly any heat because gunked up) I did NOT change the coolant which has been in there for 10 years already.
So
I have removed the splash shield under the bottom front and have access to both the petcock and the 'Y' outlet hose, I have a suitable pan to catch the old coolant so I can certainly get it all out but the question is:
Where do I add the 11.6 quarts of 50/50 mix that I have?
Do I just add it to the reservoir with the engine running? There seems to be a hose at the bottom front of the reservoir but I cant see where it goes and it seems to go down low and Im thinking I should add at the highest point..
Does someone know the correct procedure for REPLACING ALL of the coolant on this car? PS it is a sealed system so I am concerned about air bubbles.
below are just a couple of pics of the engine.
Thanks!
46897
46898
danielsatur
10-21-2012, 06:34 PM
Yes - Add Extended life Prestone 50/50 to the coolant reservoir tank.
Did you add a Prestone T-flush kit for the back flushing?
The Prestone T-flush kit is used for draining, and water pressure can be used to force air pockets out of coolant system.
Before adding coolant, squeeze & crunch all rubber coolant system hose's and do another flush until clean.
The rust plaque on the rubber hoses will be broken up and flushed clean.
Note - use a washing machine hose on one of your T-flush kit for draining outside of the autos hood, and the other T-flush valve to flush with fresh water pressure from a garden hose.
Also see Similar Thread www.automotiveforums.com/vbullitin/showthread.php?t=155214 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbullitin/showthread.php?t=155214)
Add a booster of Prestone coolant system treatment with corrosion inhibitor once a year and Test coolant in between 5-year coolant flush + change.
Did you add a Prestone T-flush kit for the back flushing?
The Prestone T-flush kit is used for draining, and water pressure can be used to force air pockets out of coolant system.
Before adding coolant, squeeze & crunch all rubber coolant system hose's and do another flush until clean.
The rust plaque on the rubber hoses will be broken up and flushed clean.
Note - use a washing machine hose on one of your T-flush kit for draining outside of the autos hood, and the other T-flush valve to flush with fresh water pressure from a garden hose.
Also see Similar Thread www.automotiveforums.com/vbullitin/showthread.php?t=155214 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbullitin/showthread.php?t=155214)
Add a booster of Prestone coolant system treatment with corrosion inhibitor once a year and Test coolant in between 5-year coolant flush + change.
smileyfaceguy
10-23-2012, 07:56 PM
OK thanks man ,Im almost finished flushing the cleaning chemical out now but
GUESS WHAT,I JUST OVERTIGHTENED AND BROKE OFF THE PETCOCK VALVE AHHHHH.:banghead: :crying:
Advance auto says they have one for $4 and luckily I can get the part out and it seems to be holding water so I can drive tomorrow to go get the part. I suppose once I thread the piece all the way out I will just try and pull it out?
GUESS WHAT,I JUST OVERTIGHTENED AND BROKE OFF THE PETCOCK VALVE AHHHHH.:banghead: :crying:
Advance auto says they have one for $4 and luckily I can get the part out and it seems to be holding water so I can drive tomorrow to go get the part. I suppose once I thread the piece all the way out I will just try and pull it out?
smileyfaceguy
11-13-2012, 12:02 PM
Ok, The drain petcock half that WAS in the hole did hold and I easily found the part at Advance auto parts for about $5. I used a screwdriver to slowly unthread the piece out and then just squeeze and pull straight down and its out. It looks differrent, in fact it is better because it is designed to hand tighten (not a big wrench like the OEM part)
It is 'HELP' brand part # 61127.
47080
47081It is black in color ,not white like OEM. I put some teflon tape around the threads for good measure, works perfect.
Did manage to finish the flush and coolant change. Temporarily took out the thermostat because it was stopping the flush water from going straight through. (Maybe this was not the best way but it worked), be careful I have heard that the thermostat housing can crack and bolts can break off if overtightened or not tightened slowly in sequence.
In the end calculated that about 3/4 gallon of water still stuck in the heater core and engine block so just added coolant accordingly to reach (on my car vin code 'U') 11.6 quarts, about 3 3/4 gallons total 50/50 mix.
I put the plastic splash guard back on the bottom the next weekend.
What a job, but really glad I did it. I should have taken a pic of the old fluid, it was BLACK. (Dropped off at pep boys):cool:
Please note:System hot and under pressure!Please dont ever open the coolant reservoir (or any hose/thermostat,anything) if even still warm! When sure open extremely slowly and use a rag.
It is 'HELP' brand part # 61127.
47080
47081It is black in color ,not white like OEM. I put some teflon tape around the threads for good measure, works perfect.
Did manage to finish the flush and coolant change. Temporarily took out the thermostat because it was stopping the flush water from going straight through. (Maybe this was not the best way but it worked), be careful I have heard that the thermostat housing can crack and bolts can break off if overtightened or not tightened slowly in sequence.
In the end calculated that about 3/4 gallon of water still stuck in the heater core and engine block so just added coolant accordingly to reach (on my car vin code 'U') 11.6 quarts, about 3 3/4 gallons total 50/50 mix.
I put the plastic splash guard back on the bottom the next weekend.
What a job, but really glad I did it. I should have taken a pic of the old fluid, it was BLACK. (Dropped off at pep boys):cool:
Please note:System hot and under pressure!Please dont ever open the coolant reservoir (or any hose/thermostat,anything) if even still warm! When sure open extremely slowly and use a rag.
shorod
11-14-2012, 06:50 AM
Good info, thanks for sharing the part number of the HELP part!
-Rod
-Rod
Knifeblade
11-14-2012, 11:22 AM
Sort of a tangent, but Ford doesn't suggest extended life {orange} coolant. I've heard from other Bull owners the same warning. I don't see why you shouldn't, unless there's something in the chemical mix that reacts badly in the system?
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