01 Rodeo V6 - What brand/model spark plugs to buy?

Guys,
I am working on to improve MPG, I only get 12-13MPG (city/fwy)
I've read faq and many threads on the forum but all states different model of Denso plugs.!
FAQ States K16PR-P11
Some says PK16PR11 (sounds similar to first one)
Some others say PK16PR-L11
and recording the amazon.com K16PR-P11 does not fit my 2001 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2 FWD but PK16PR11 does.
http://www.amazon.com/Denso-3293-Spark-Plug/dp/B0012Q9ZD4

Any suggestions?

That is really low ... I would start with new O2 sensors first.

That is really low ... I would start with new O2 sensors first.

I just swapped O2 sensors with Bosch and tire pressure to 40psi (isn't too high?) yesterday.. then ordered new fuel filter, pcv valve from Amazon.com (both Fram brand) and will also clean mass air flow sensor in next few days but can't find right sparks for isuzu..
I changed sparks 25-30k mileages ago with bosch, is it worth to swap to denso? I have CEL on due EGR Valve (which I already cleaned) but will I get better MPG with denso sparks?

40psi is high .... stick with 32psi. The issue is the your ABS will be a lot more prone to activate due to the small contact pad and your tires will bounce more and may cause the ABS to start.

If you only have 30k on you plugs you should be fine. Plugs today are fine for at least 75k (the only worry is the steel treads bonding to the aluminum heads).

Don't forget to clean the EGR tube that exits (opens up) right behind the throttle body. This can get plugged with carbon and then it will cause the CEL to light to make it look like the EGR is bad. There is a good write up and photos in the FAQs (see the link in my sig).

PCV: get use to pulling it every 1k and spray it out with some carb cleaner (it plugs up pretty easily).

Fuel filter: cheap and easy to do, do it every 30k.

Also for 35 bucks you can swap out the rear gear oil with synthetic (buy a paper gasket from Fel-Pro). You may see a 0.1MPG increase ... but over time that 35 bucks will be well spent.

photos

[quote=amigo-2k;7005406]40psi is high .... stick with 32psi. The issue is the your ABS will be a lot more prone to activate due to the small contact pad and your tires will bounce more and may cause the ABS to start.

If you only have 30k on you plugs you should be fine. Plugs today are fine for at least 75k (the only worry is the steel treads bonding to the aluminum heads).

Don't forget to clean the EGR tube that exits (opens up) right behind the throttle body. This can get plugged with carbon and then it will cause the CEL to light to make it look like the EGR is bad. There is a good write up and photos in the FAQs (see the link in my sig).

PCV: get use to pulling it every 1k and spray it out with some carb cleaner (it plugs up

Also, since you are switching out new parts, unhook the battery for at least 30 minutes. This will reset the ECU and it will have to relearn how you drive and it will relearn the new parts too.

photos

I removed the big hose which goes to throttle body, then opened up butterfly and tried to spray inside but the spray I have doesn't have tiny extension, I just sprayed behing butterfly and I don't think it did work, I will stop by local auto parts shop and buy smaller carbon cleaner can with extension, thank you for the tip, yes that egr tube is really dirty.

BTW, I replaced the fuel filter, took me almost one hour to remove hoses that stuck in filter

You can also run a coat hanger up the tube or a long pipe cleaner works well too.

You can also run a coat hanger up the tube or a long pipe cleaner works well too.

Is it necessary or better to remove EGR Valve while cleaning the tube? I am assuming that removing Egr valve will help carbon to get out from holes that right under the valve?

You don't have to pull the EGR, it typically only carbons up the end of the tube that exits right behind the throttle body.

You don't have to pull the EGR, it typically only carbons up the end of the tube that exits right behind the throttle body.

Okay, what about carb or intake cleaner? I went to local O'Reilly and asked o2 sensor carb cleaner spray, The guy found a CRC brand o2 sensor friendly carb cleaner but he said never ever use it with my engine, he states that it's only for carburetor engines, so I didn't buy, what type/kind of spray should I buy to clean EGR tube?

carb cleaner that is safe for O2 sensors is what you need to clean everything (I use the same brand you mentioned)

carb cleaner that is safe for O2 sensors is what you need to clean everything (I use the same brand you mentioned)

Okay, so I tried that this morning and I guess no success..
Tube is full of carbon and I could only clean maybe 2mm of the end, carbon already in there and it won't melt stuck.... it doesn't look clean enough,
I had 1/4 of carb cleaner can left from EGR valve cleaning job and I used whatever was in the can with an plastic extension but no luck, should I try to clean with wire cleaning brush?

This is how EGR tube looks like after cleaning
http://i49.tinypic.com/11i2wwi.png


Here is the can and extension I used
http://i46.tinypic.com/33ku840.jpg

If you have access to a test tube brush it will help to clean it up a bit. Also you can cut up a wire coat hanger and run it up the tube to.

I just cleaned the tube, wire coat hanger helped a lot to do job, thank you for suggestions, CEL is gone now, will see if it will come back? I still have to remove the code, I need smog test in next few days,
Thank you so much again, car didn't want to start for like 1 hour, tried to start about 15-20 times finally started with too much white smoke from exhaust.
I drove 200 miles since I swapped O2 Sensors but looks like no gas mileage improvement, I got 12.5 mpg, 30 miles on fwy, 170 miles city traffic.

The hard start is not a surprise since the carb cleaner would leak down into the cylinder (the white smoke just means it was loaded up on gas and you were burning up the carb cleaner too).

Do you have stock sized tires?

Have you checked your speed with a GPS?

The hard start is not a surprise since the carb cleaner would leak down into the cylinder (the white smoke just means it was loaded up on gas and you were burning up the carb cleaner too).

Do you have stock sized tires?

Have you checked your speed with a GPS?

I expected hard start and smoke, working just fine and no more check engine light but I believe I still need to remove the code for the smog check? My buddy got code reader, I will ask him to remove it and I will drive 40-50 miles before I take to smog check.

Yes, I have stock sized tires and they're about 6 months old.
GPS shows same speed as speed meter, all my friends say that I drive like an old man ( I am under 30), I dont kick down, I don't speed but I guess this is what it is, I should live with this mpg.

I cleared P401 codes and CEL last week but CEL came back of course but after cleaning the EGR tube light disappeared itself.. I don't have CEL on right now after I cleaned egr tube but I know I still have codes on the car, so I connected obd2 code reader and it found 5 different codes, P0401, P1290, P1299, P1295, P1515.. I didn't have any of these last week other than p0401, could it be because hard-start caused by carb cleaner and white smoke? I have smog check in few days and won't want to fail

P1290 - Cylinder Head Temp Sensor Low Input
P1299 - ETC Forced engine shutdown
P1515 - Command actual tps correlation error
P1295 - ETC power management mode

I am assuming that I won't see these codes again but just curious, anything to worry about?

Those are probably just codes due to the excessive cranking that happened.

EGR is gone and passed the smog test but still get 13-14 mpg city/fwy combined, thank you for your help