Kato's 2001 250cc Honda NSR250...
The Sheene Machine
09-22-2012, 06:15 AM
It's been a long time since I posted a build thread on this forum, so....For the benefit of those who haven't seen this thread elsewhere, I'll post my progress on this one over the next few days and catch up to where I am now....
A new build from me, Hasagawa's new kit of Kato's championship winning Honda NSR250. I need a break from resin transkits, so I've chosen to do this largely from the box, with just some minor upgrades.
Here's a ref pic of the machine....
http://images58.fotki.com/v279/photos/9/823979/10260709/10_nsr250_2001-vi.jpg
I've decided to do this version of the bike, which has a black background to the lower cowl Repsol logo, just to be different.
http://images56.fotki.com/v371/photos/9/823979/10260709/daijiro_kato_8-vi.jpg
The decal sheet in the kit is spot on, all of the flourescent markings are correct - tabacco markings are supplied via Tabu Design...
http://images51.fotki.com/v103/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7311-vi.jpg
I am at the stage of just cleaning parts up and glueing things together. The fit is superb, especially the lower cowl - very good, in fact almost too good. I'll need to watch paint biuld up in some areas. Here's some pics so far.
http://images54.fotki.com/v77/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7296-vi.jpg
http://images54.fotki.com/v104/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7298-vi.jpg
http://images58.fotki.com/v279/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7299-vi.jpg
I filled in the mounting holes on the lower cowl and removed the stubs on the upper fairing, the lower cowl will simply be glued in place on the finished model. I'll then use some etch fasteners.
http://images60.fotki.com/v661/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7303-vi.jpg
http://images60.fotki.com/v361/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7304-vi.jpg
http://images57.fotki.com/v1354/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7305-vi.jpg
The body parts are nearly ready from primer...
http://images53.fotki.com/v249/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7310-vi.jpg
The tank comes in four parts and needs a little filler for a clean result...
http://images112.fotki.com/v386/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7307-vi.jpg
..as does the seat..
http://images56.fotki.com/v702/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7308-vi.jpg
The exhausts are moulded with a 'jacket' over them which will be black, exposing just a little of the actual pipe, so little or no heat staining opportunities here.. :(
http://images16.fotki.com/v363/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7309-vi.jpg
More soon.
A new build from me, Hasagawa's new kit of Kato's championship winning Honda NSR250. I need a break from resin transkits, so I've chosen to do this largely from the box, with just some minor upgrades.
Here's a ref pic of the machine....
http://images58.fotki.com/v279/photos/9/823979/10260709/10_nsr250_2001-vi.jpg
I've decided to do this version of the bike, which has a black background to the lower cowl Repsol logo, just to be different.
http://images56.fotki.com/v371/photos/9/823979/10260709/daijiro_kato_8-vi.jpg
The decal sheet in the kit is spot on, all of the flourescent markings are correct - tabacco markings are supplied via Tabu Design...
http://images51.fotki.com/v103/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7311-vi.jpg
I am at the stage of just cleaning parts up and glueing things together. The fit is superb, especially the lower cowl - very good, in fact almost too good. I'll need to watch paint biuld up in some areas. Here's some pics so far.
http://images54.fotki.com/v77/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7296-vi.jpg
http://images54.fotki.com/v104/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7298-vi.jpg
http://images58.fotki.com/v279/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7299-vi.jpg
I filled in the mounting holes on the lower cowl and removed the stubs on the upper fairing, the lower cowl will simply be glued in place on the finished model. I'll then use some etch fasteners.
http://images60.fotki.com/v661/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7303-vi.jpg
http://images60.fotki.com/v361/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7304-vi.jpg
http://images57.fotki.com/v1354/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7305-vi.jpg
The body parts are nearly ready from primer...
http://images53.fotki.com/v249/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7310-vi.jpg
The tank comes in four parts and needs a little filler for a clean result...
http://images112.fotki.com/v386/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7307-vi.jpg
..as does the seat..
http://images56.fotki.com/v702/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7308-vi.jpg
The exhausts are moulded with a 'jacket' over them which will be black, exposing just a little of the actual pipe, so little or no heat staining opportunities here.. :(
http://images16.fotki.com/v363/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7309-vi.jpg
More soon.
The Sheene Machine
09-23-2012, 03:41 AM
Ok guys, here's the next update..
So far the kit is a delight. The engineering is first rate, everything fits together without issue. The only thing I've noticed is the plastic is softer than that used by Tamiya, so thin parts are fragile.
Most of the main parts are now in primer...the body parts are ready for basecoat paint, except for a rub down with some wet and dry paper..getting the seams perfect took a while longer than I thought.. .grey parts will be blue, white lower cowl will get flourescent paint..
http://images54.fotki.com/v104/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7397-vi.jpg
The frame and swingarm. I filled in the insides of the swingarm - at least the areas that will be visible on the completed model...it also compliments the filler pieces on the frame...I removed some boltheads and moulded on details to be replace with etch etc later..
http://images57.fotki.com/v1354/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7396-vi.jpg
Swingarm...I removed the bolts from the chain guard and drilled out the adjusters...
http://images54.fotki.com/v104/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7399-vi.jpg
The wheels, removed air valves and a lot of seams..took a while to get right...these will get some Top Studio valves after paint.
http://images60.fotki.com/v662/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7401-vi.jpg
I will have the bodywork in blue in the next update. :D
So far the kit is a delight. The engineering is first rate, everything fits together without issue. The only thing I've noticed is the plastic is softer than that used by Tamiya, so thin parts are fragile.
Most of the main parts are now in primer...the body parts are ready for basecoat paint, except for a rub down with some wet and dry paper..getting the seams perfect took a while longer than I thought.. .grey parts will be blue, white lower cowl will get flourescent paint..
http://images54.fotki.com/v104/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7397-vi.jpg
The frame and swingarm. I filled in the insides of the swingarm - at least the areas that will be visible on the completed model...it also compliments the filler pieces on the frame...I removed some boltheads and moulded on details to be replace with etch etc later..
http://images57.fotki.com/v1354/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7396-vi.jpg
Swingarm...I removed the bolts from the chain guard and drilled out the adjusters...
http://images54.fotki.com/v104/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7399-vi.jpg
The wheels, removed air valves and a lot of seams..took a while to get right...these will get some Top Studio valves after paint.
http://images60.fotki.com/v662/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7401-vi.jpg
I will have the bodywork in blue in the next update. :D
The Sheene Machine
09-23-2012, 03:49 AM
Here's what happened when I began painting...
Little bit of a disaster....I chose to try the Zero Suzuki 2001 Telefonica blue for the Honda (same year) - however it turns out that the 2001 piant is the same that was mixed for the 2003 Honda's and is therefore miles off.....the 2001 bikes, both the Roberts Suzuki and Kato Honda, were painted in a solid, bright blue. Hasegawa recommend GSI cobalt blue - I've gone for a slightly brighter blue which is on it's way from Japan. So, if you have painted your 2001 Suzuki in Tamiya's racing or Telefonica blues, it's wrong too. :-?
The parts were stripped last weekend and are now sat in primer again. Here's how far off the Zero paint is....the small decal goes on the windscreen, and even that's not quite right. I'll be painting this part on the screen.
http://images51.fotki.com/v731/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7402-vi.jpg
http://images55.fotki.com/v1617/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7404-vi.jpg
Thanks goes to Skylinefan for his 2001 Suzuki RGV biuld which helped with the colour choice...
Here's an update, I've finally sorted the main colour out after some heartache with the wretched Zero Telefonica blue. I had yet another search about for the correct colour and found a mention on the Max Moto site of cobalt blue...Hasegawa list the colour as simply H5 from the GSI Creos range - if you go this route it matches the decals provided for the windscreen and the faded white to blue stripe across the nose. It's miles off the actual colour of the bike, which for me is always the preference. I purchased two 10ml bottles of Mr Hobby 80 Cobalt blue - to my eye the near equivolent would be Tamiya's Brilliant blue (TS44?), close to the Calsonic colour I think.
I tested the paint first over grey primer and latterly white - the results speak for themselves...the white totally changes the shade, amazing!!
http://images56.fotki.com/v1298/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7525-vi.jpg
So, I proceeded with the blue, but first I had to basecoat the grey primer parts using Zero brilliant white. I sprayed 3 coats of cobalt blue and cleared about an hour later. I'm very pleased with the shade now, much more in keeping with the '01 Telefonica bikes. Here's how the colour looked on the 2001 Suzuki...
http://images16.fotki.com/v383/photos/9/823979/10260709/roberts02vi-vi.jpg
http://images55.fotki.com/v586/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7527-vi.jpg
http://images61.fotki.com/v390/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7529-vi.jpg
For the lower cowl, I sprayed Zero basecoat white, then airbrushed the small flo yellow strip, and masked off, repaint white and then flo red. The yellow section will get covered in a flo yellow decal, but I felt the shade maybe compromised by the flo red if I had of just left it. It also tidy's up the edges if the decal isn't big enough.
http://images31.fotki.com/v1094/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7530-vi.jpg
So, next up is polishing the clear, get the decals on and clear again.
More soon.
Little bit of a disaster....I chose to try the Zero Suzuki 2001 Telefonica blue for the Honda (same year) - however it turns out that the 2001 piant is the same that was mixed for the 2003 Honda's and is therefore miles off.....the 2001 bikes, both the Roberts Suzuki and Kato Honda, were painted in a solid, bright blue. Hasegawa recommend GSI cobalt blue - I've gone for a slightly brighter blue which is on it's way from Japan. So, if you have painted your 2001 Suzuki in Tamiya's racing or Telefonica blues, it's wrong too. :-?
The parts were stripped last weekend and are now sat in primer again. Here's how far off the Zero paint is....the small decal goes on the windscreen, and even that's not quite right. I'll be painting this part on the screen.
http://images51.fotki.com/v731/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7402-vi.jpg
http://images55.fotki.com/v1617/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7404-vi.jpg
Thanks goes to Skylinefan for his 2001 Suzuki RGV biuld which helped with the colour choice...
Here's an update, I've finally sorted the main colour out after some heartache with the wretched Zero Telefonica blue. I had yet another search about for the correct colour and found a mention on the Max Moto site of cobalt blue...Hasegawa list the colour as simply H5 from the GSI Creos range - if you go this route it matches the decals provided for the windscreen and the faded white to blue stripe across the nose. It's miles off the actual colour of the bike, which for me is always the preference. I purchased two 10ml bottles of Mr Hobby 80 Cobalt blue - to my eye the near equivolent would be Tamiya's Brilliant blue (TS44?), close to the Calsonic colour I think.
I tested the paint first over grey primer and latterly white - the results speak for themselves...the white totally changes the shade, amazing!!
http://images56.fotki.com/v1298/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7525-vi.jpg
So, I proceeded with the blue, but first I had to basecoat the grey primer parts using Zero brilliant white. I sprayed 3 coats of cobalt blue and cleared about an hour later. I'm very pleased with the shade now, much more in keeping with the '01 Telefonica bikes. Here's how the colour looked on the 2001 Suzuki...
http://images16.fotki.com/v383/photos/9/823979/10260709/roberts02vi-vi.jpg
http://images55.fotki.com/v586/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7527-vi.jpg
http://images61.fotki.com/v390/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7529-vi.jpg
For the lower cowl, I sprayed Zero basecoat white, then airbrushed the small flo yellow strip, and masked off, repaint white and then flo red. The yellow section will get covered in a flo yellow decal, but I felt the shade maybe compromised by the flo red if I had of just left it. It also tidy's up the edges if the decal isn't big enough.
http://images31.fotki.com/v1094/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7530-vi.jpg
So, next up is polishing the clear, get the decals on and clear again.
More soon.
John18d
09-24-2012, 06:29 PM
Interesting that you noted the difference in the colors depending on the primer color used - I have found that I always use Tamiya fine "white" primer unless I'm spraying black on top then I use Tamiya "grey" primer. Also Hiroboy does two different paints for the Telefonica bikes - I have the Suzuki colors and the Honda colors but they are not the same - I will have to dig them out and check for a color match - otherwise I will use TS-44 when I build my NSR250 kit. - looks really good Paul -I always like to watch your work because I learn a lot from your builds - John
ben_gsr2s
09-25-2012, 12:46 PM
nice progress.
i'll be watching this.
i've built a lot of tamiya bike, but recently Tamiya a bit slow on releasing new bike and Hasegawa + Aoshima have very good offering.
my only doubt with Hasegawa was the fitment / kit quality, but from your explanation.. i think it is time to get some hasegawa bike..
keep updating!!
very informative :cool:
i'll be watching this.
i've built a lot of tamiya bike, but recently Tamiya a bit slow on releasing new bike and Hasegawa + Aoshima have very good offering.
my only doubt with Hasegawa was the fitment / kit quality, but from your explanation.. i think it is time to get some hasegawa bike..
keep updating!!
very informative :cool:
The Sheene Machine
09-25-2012, 02:52 PM
Thanks guys, I'm glad your enjoying the thread.
@John....It frustrates me that Tamiya and some other companies get the colours wrong....I do lots of research to get a good idea about the actual tones used...Tamiya's Telefonica blue is miles off....for this and a number of other bikes...:banghead:
Another update from me.....
I've begun decalling the body parts, tank and front fender are done and cleared...seat is decalled only as is the lower cowl....the blue here looks a little lighter than in reality.....I'm pleased with my colour option...
http://images42.fotki.com/v1314/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7594-vi.jpg
...the lower cowl still needs some carbon decals adding....
http://images51.fotki.com/v278/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7592-vi.jpg
.. the seat was decalled last night...I lost a small piece of decal on the Honda logo, a little part broke away from the 'A'...it'll be fixed with some spare decal..
http://images51.fotki.com/v299/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7591-vi.jpg
..unfortunately while reclearing the fairing I kinda got it wrong....clear ran and I had some contaminants on the surface...this'll be going in the IPA shortly to be redone... :banghead:
http://images40.fotki.com/v1301/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7595-vi.jpg
More soon...
@John....It frustrates me that Tamiya and some other companies get the colours wrong....I do lots of research to get a good idea about the actual tones used...Tamiya's Telefonica blue is miles off....for this and a number of other bikes...:banghead:
Another update from me.....
I've begun decalling the body parts, tank and front fender are done and cleared...seat is decalled only as is the lower cowl....the blue here looks a little lighter than in reality.....I'm pleased with my colour option...
http://images42.fotki.com/v1314/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7594-vi.jpg
...the lower cowl still needs some carbon decals adding....
http://images51.fotki.com/v278/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7592-vi.jpg
.. the seat was decalled last night...I lost a small piece of decal on the Honda logo, a little part broke away from the 'A'...it'll be fixed with some spare decal..
http://images51.fotki.com/v299/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7591-vi.jpg
..unfortunately while reclearing the fairing I kinda got it wrong....clear ran and I had some contaminants on the surface...this'll be going in the IPA shortly to be redone... :banghead:
http://images40.fotki.com/v1301/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7595-vi.jpg
More soon...
The Sheene Machine
09-25-2012, 03:45 PM
..and here we are nearly up to date...apologies for the quality of the next 3 photo's...the actual colour is darker than see here, refer to my earlier post for the correct tone.
Time for an update (sorry this one isn't going along quickly!) - I've managed to complete the decalling and clearing stage of the biuld, always a milestone for me. The fairing was stripped, repainted, cleared, decalled and cleared a few weeks back and last week I polished all of the items together. I'm pleased with the result though I did have a problem with the white background Honda logo that goes across the nose - it came with a fade into blue which was darker than my corrected blue, I tried airbrushing that out and fading in the lighter blue only to make a complete mess of it...nearly lost the decal. I will have to rethink the process again should I need to do it on another build.
One word of advice for those attempting this model...the decal's stick like limpets...very difficult to move once positioned, so get your's in the right place. I had a problem with the right side Movistar logo, it's slightly off...anyhow, I can now get on with the frame and engine.
http://images55.fotki.com/v586/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7671-vi.jpg
Two images of the bike mocked up. The frame has been coated in Zero's satin black and the seat support has been carbon decalled, just needs clearing before painting the rest of the frame with Alclad.
http://images61.fotki.com/v373/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7668-vi.jpg
http://images59.fotki.com/v222/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7666-vi.jpg
More soon...
Time for an update (sorry this one isn't going along quickly!) - I've managed to complete the decalling and clearing stage of the biuld, always a milestone for me. The fairing was stripped, repainted, cleared, decalled and cleared a few weeks back and last week I polished all of the items together. I'm pleased with the result though I did have a problem with the white background Honda logo that goes across the nose - it came with a fade into blue which was darker than my corrected blue, I tried airbrushing that out and fading in the lighter blue only to make a complete mess of it...nearly lost the decal. I will have to rethink the process again should I need to do it on another build.
One word of advice for those attempting this model...the decal's stick like limpets...very difficult to move once positioned, so get your's in the right place. I had a problem with the right side Movistar logo, it's slightly off...anyhow, I can now get on with the frame and engine.
http://images55.fotki.com/v586/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7671-vi.jpg
Two images of the bike mocked up. The frame has been coated in Zero's satin black and the seat support has been carbon decalled, just needs clearing before painting the rest of the frame with Alclad.
http://images61.fotki.com/v373/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7668-vi.jpg
http://images59.fotki.com/v222/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_7666-vi.jpg
More soon...
John18d
09-25-2012, 06:26 PM
Paul - Decals and paint look good - nice gloss finish - the satin black - is that better than gloss black under AlClad? also what AlClad color will you use for the frame/swingarm. What do you use to fill the areas on the frame/swingarm. Will you paint the inside of the body panels with black? or will you do it in carbon fiber? patiently waiting for the next install - John
John18d
09-25-2012, 07:58 PM
Paul - do you have a Zero part number for the "satin black"? I looked over the Hiroboy Zero listings but didn't see it - only "rubber black" and "semi-gloss black" - thanks - John
The Sheene Machine
09-26-2012, 02:44 PM
Paul - Decals and paint look good - nice gloss finish - the satin black - is that better than gloss black under AlClad? also what AlClad color will you use for the frame/swingarm. What do you use to fill the areas on the frame/swingarm. Will you paint the inside of the body panels with black? or will you do it in carbon fiber? patiently waiting for the next install - John
Hi John, thanks for your continued interest. The reason for the Zero satin/semi gloss black is for the carbon decals which were fitted to the seat support. In reality the Zero satin acted as another undercoat over the primer. The decals were cleared, polished and then masked off....I recoated the frame with a satin black from a rattle can (Halfords) and then airbrush Polished Aluminium. Over satin this gives a slightly subdued finish to the frame which was what I was after. Over gloss black the PA (or chrome) will give the finish Alclad suggest. My refs indicated a slightly dulled finish would be appropriate. You'll note from the pics that the Zero semi gloss looks a little flat...which is why I canned' on another coat a Halfords satin/semi black.
With most of my paint choices I test first - I did this too with the semi gloss/Alclad PA method too.
The frame has inserts provided in the kit which were blended in and sanded down...awkward job!! For the swingarm I used Tamiya epoxy putty.
The insides of the fairing/lower cowl and seat will be airbrushed...semi gloss black. I thinking of adding some heat shield material inside the lower cowl.
Paul - do you have a Zero part number for the "satin black"? I looked over the Hiroboy Zero listings but didn't see it - only "rubber black" and "semi-gloss black" - thanks - John
Sorry to confuse things..My satin black is the Zero semi gloss black....though you can use most of the blacks from Zero as they all dry to a semi/satin finish anyway.
My next update will show the frame, swingarm and exhausts completed, just got to do the photos. :)
Hi John, thanks for your continued interest. The reason for the Zero satin/semi gloss black is for the carbon decals which were fitted to the seat support. In reality the Zero satin acted as another undercoat over the primer. The decals were cleared, polished and then masked off....I recoated the frame with a satin black from a rattle can (Halfords) and then airbrush Polished Aluminium. Over satin this gives a slightly subdued finish to the frame which was what I was after. Over gloss black the PA (or chrome) will give the finish Alclad suggest. My refs indicated a slightly dulled finish would be appropriate. You'll note from the pics that the Zero semi gloss looks a little flat...which is why I canned' on another coat a Halfords satin/semi black.
With most of my paint choices I test first - I did this too with the semi gloss/Alclad PA method too.
The frame has inserts provided in the kit which were blended in and sanded down...awkward job!! For the swingarm I used Tamiya epoxy putty.
The insides of the fairing/lower cowl and seat will be airbrushed...semi gloss black. I thinking of adding some heat shield material inside the lower cowl.
Paul - do you have a Zero part number for the "satin black"? I looked over the Hiroboy Zero listings but didn't see it - only "rubber black" and "semi-gloss black" - thanks - John
Sorry to confuse things..My satin black is the Zero semi gloss black....though you can use most of the blacks from Zero as they all dry to a semi/satin finish anyway.
My next update will show the frame, swingarm and exhausts completed, just got to do the photos. :)
cinqster
09-27-2012, 07:37 PM
Very nice work so far, Paul!:smokin:
I'm embarrassed to admit that I didn't even know Hasagawa made 1/12th bikes until I saw your thread! Judging by your photos, the quality looks to be up there with Tamiya's standards...may have to have a look at these kits too!
I'm embarrassed to admit that I didn't even know Hasagawa made 1/12th bikes until I saw your thread! Judging by your photos, the quality looks to be up there with Tamiya's standards...may have to have a look at these kits too!
John18d
09-27-2012, 07:56 PM
Very nice work so far, Paul!:smokin:
I'm embarrassed to admit that I didn't even know Hasagawa made 1/12th bikes until I saw your thread! Judging by your photos, the quality looks to be up there with Tamiya's standards...may have to have a look at these kits too!
cinqster - the Hasegawa kits are not of the quality of Tamiya in my opinion - they are far better than the Fujimi kits, but definitely not what a Tamiya kit is. Still I have 5 of them - 1 each of the RS250RWs and 1 each of the NSR250s - there is a third NSR250 that was run in the "All Japan" series which I ordered from HLJ but I have not got that one yet - also they are going to release the 87-88' "Eddie Lawson" YZR500 which I will have to still order. - I have that kit is 1/9 from Protar but not one in 1/12.
If I had to make a complaint I'd say it is that Tamiya has nice substructures that are held in place with small screws and Hasegawa used little "nubs" and "holes" that interlink to hold the pieces together - also where Tamiya might have 6-7 parts for an assembly Hasegawa will have 1-2 - everything is molded as one or two pieces. Anyone else want to give an opinion?? - John
I'm embarrassed to admit that I didn't even know Hasagawa made 1/12th bikes until I saw your thread! Judging by your photos, the quality looks to be up there with Tamiya's standards...may have to have a look at these kits too!
cinqster - the Hasegawa kits are not of the quality of Tamiya in my opinion - they are far better than the Fujimi kits, but definitely not what a Tamiya kit is. Still I have 5 of them - 1 each of the RS250RWs and 1 each of the NSR250s - there is a third NSR250 that was run in the "All Japan" series which I ordered from HLJ but I have not got that one yet - also they are going to release the 87-88' "Eddie Lawson" YZR500 which I will have to still order. - I have that kit is 1/9 from Protar but not one in 1/12.
If I had to make a complaint I'd say it is that Tamiya has nice substructures that are held in place with small screws and Hasegawa used little "nubs" and "holes" that interlink to hold the pieces together - also where Tamiya might have 6-7 parts for an assembly Hasegawa will have 1-2 - everything is molded as one or two pieces. Anyone else want to give an opinion?? - John
The Sheene Machine
09-28-2012, 02:26 PM
I'd be inclined to disagree there John...:)
The Kato kit has 167 parts, many of which go to make up the frame, engine and airbox structures, which in turn offers a better level of detail over Tamiya's kits...the lack of screws for fastening major parts is a godsend...and the one's that are used are hidden after by tiny nut shape moldings, therefore offering improved realism. Tamiya's screws offer strength but remove realism.
A plus too is accurate decals sets - both the 2001 Kato and 2007 Repsol kits have very accurate markings especially the Repsol kit - correct flourescent orange and red decals are provided, something Tamiya have only done once in several attempts.
The downsides - perhaps the plastic used can be a little fragile with small delicate parts, some of the decal options are aimed at the Japanese market, and the parts level and construction may put off beginners.
Hasegawa have filled an important gap in the bike market, 250cc bikes have been largely overlooked, so these kits are very welcome. Their new kit, the 1988 YZR500 of Eddie Lawson begins fills another void - 500cc machines between 1986 and 1998- a gap previously only done in expensive resin. And for that I'm very grateful!! :iceslolan
The Kato kit has 167 parts, many of which go to make up the frame, engine and airbox structures, which in turn offers a better level of detail over Tamiya's kits...the lack of screws for fastening major parts is a godsend...and the one's that are used are hidden after by tiny nut shape moldings, therefore offering improved realism. Tamiya's screws offer strength but remove realism.
A plus too is accurate decals sets - both the 2001 Kato and 2007 Repsol kits have very accurate markings especially the Repsol kit - correct flourescent orange and red decals are provided, something Tamiya have only done once in several attempts.
The downsides - perhaps the plastic used can be a little fragile with small delicate parts, some of the decal options are aimed at the Japanese market, and the parts level and construction may put off beginners.
Hasegawa have filled an important gap in the bike market, 250cc bikes have been largely overlooked, so these kits are very welcome. Their new kit, the 1988 YZR500 of Eddie Lawson begins fills another void - 500cc machines between 1986 and 1998- a gap previously only done in expensive resin. And for that I'm very grateful!! :iceslolan
John18d
09-28-2012, 03:37 PM
Interesting comments Paul and I do respect what you say because I have seen several of your models in print (Assen Assasin) my favorite - in fact I bought that same kit just to replicate yours - but in my opinion lots of parts doesn't necessarily indicate detail - many times there are several parts when one is no more different - for me it's not the number of parts but what each part represents in as much as it makes painting, detailing and assembling more thought out. As for the plastic I agree - I feel Tamiya uses the best plastic in the business - I know you're fond of the resin kits (again seen some of your work) but I am not a resin kit builder - as for the void - true but that is probably because there were issues with the factories not so much the model companies - ala 2006 a flood of new Tamiya kits because it was the last year for that rules classification (990's). I believe only Tamiya did the 1/12 scale 250's from 90-94 (both Yams and Hondas) My main interest in modeling is Bikes as I raced "unlimited" superbikes here in the USA from 94-98'. Speaking of Lawson and his bike being released I know Eddie - lived just up the road 65 miles from him in Laughlin - him in Havasau - in fact after I was paralyzed he intro'd me to Wayne Rainey at a go kart meet at Willow Springs raceway - (they race 250cc superkarts) and they got me into getting a 125cc shifterkart (next to racing bikes - most fun you can have with clothes on) - sorry got of topic - there's a big void in bikes in general but if we let the model makers know that we will buy them - they will make them provided the licensing is available - I still stand by my original posting - Tamiya is the pinnacle of mfg 1/12 plastic bike kits - it's hard to justify the extra cost for a Hasegawa or Fujimi kit when they are not on par with Tamiya - somehow though I find the way to buy the kits - Oh! and Paul they make some great PE parts to cover the Big screws in the Tamiya kits for the little ones there's TunerModelManufactory replacements, but I know you're aware of them - John
Maybe after I see what you can do Paul - I'll change my mind - I don't have your skills, but the bikes I build are good enough my friends all want them - lol - John
Maybe after I see what you can do Paul - I'll change my mind - I don't have your skills, but the bikes I build are good enough my friends all want them - lol - John
John18d
09-28-2012, 04:16 PM
Paul - speaking of the void - I would like to see more of the street-based racers - like Honda RC-30 - RC45 - RC51 Yam R-1 Ducati 916 - 998 & 999 - anything Suzuki all in racing format with different liveries - I would love to do a RVF750 endurance racer - anyhow until they make it in plastic I'll just have to be patient - John
The Sheene Machine
09-29-2012, 06:31 AM
The detail I refer to that Hasegawa have included are items like fully realised airboxes including the parts you can't see with the tank on....inserts for the frame after which you could display the model with tank off, fork anti-dive indicators (2009 250 Honda) and ,(I'm not sure what the part is called!!) - the bit at the top of the forks made from carbon that helps deflect air onto the rad....stuff like that Tamiya overlook...hopefully I can impress you enough to take the plunge!! The main thing is enjoy what you build - if screws and certain details aren't an issue for you and the folks that view your models, then...happy days!
I'm not sure I'm fond of resin....it's become a necessary evil as there's been some Rossi bikes unavailable in plastic...:banghead: There are frustrating, expensive and lack finess and detail!!
Was the lack of kits down to the bike manufacturers?? The rules were stable inbetween '86 and '98 with 2 stroke 500's...oddly of course Tamiya did do the '92 888 WSB Ducati and as you say the 250 Honda's!!
You raced bikes?? Respect for that. :smokin: Rainey is a god...brilliant rider as were most of the US rders from that era.
I'm not sure if you are aware of the website I have some bike articles on....I belong to Romsey Modellers here in the UK....worth a look if you haven't seen them.
http://www.romseymodellers.co.uk/build-articles/civilian-vehicles/bikes
I'm not sure I'm fond of resin....it's become a necessary evil as there's been some Rossi bikes unavailable in plastic...:banghead: There are frustrating, expensive and lack finess and detail!!
Was the lack of kits down to the bike manufacturers?? The rules were stable inbetween '86 and '98 with 2 stroke 500's...oddly of course Tamiya did do the '92 888 WSB Ducati and as you say the 250 Honda's!!
You raced bikes?? Respect for that. :smokin: Rainey is a god...brilliant rider as were most of the US rders from that era.
I'm not sure if you are aware of the website I have some bike articles on....I belong to Romsey Modellers here in the UK....worth a look if you haven't seen them.
http://www.romseymodellers.co.uk/build-articles/civilian-vehicles/bikes
John18d
09-29-2012, 03:50 PM
I'm not sure if you are aware of the website I have some bike articles on....I belong to Romsey Modellers here in the UK....worth a look if you haven't seen them.
http://www.romseymodellers.co.uk/bui...vehicles/bikes
Paul - thank for posting your modeling link for others - I have it and I have seen your builds along with others there - very good site. Thats where I came across your Assen Assasin 2007 - that is an awesome model you did and a very complicated paint job and decaling that you did - I used all your recommendations and I acquired all the bits to one day try to make one like yours - first I have to improve my skills though.
Ref - the airbox detail - yeah after the last couple of postings between us, I pulled out the Hasegawa kits to get a second look and this time I looked at the directions sheet - I can agree there is some detail that Tamiya forgoes under the tank, but Tamiya are making attempts - look at the Yamaha M-1 kits they all have air intake ducting - most of the time bikes are displayed whole unless it's a diorama then they show the body work off etc.
After my second look - I agree the Hasegawa kits aren't as bad as I initially stated, but I still think Tamiya is the pinnacle of plastic 1/12 bike kits
Ref - rules and bike kit shortages - although rules were stable - no one wanted anyone not from their garage looking at the GP bikes because of competition, it didn't explain why there were no superbikes - especially when Tamiya did a street RC30 - FZR750 - 916 - where were the race versions??? -
John
http://www.romseymodellers.co.uk/bui...vehicles/bikes
Paul - thank for posting your modeling link for others - I have it and I have seen your builds along with others there - very good site. Thats where I came across your Assen Assasin 2007 - that is an awesome model you did and a very complicated paint job and decaling that you did - I used all your recommendations and I acquired all the bits to one day try to make one like yours - first I have to improve my skills though.
Ref - the airbox detail - yeah after the last couple of postings between us, I pulled out the Hasegawa kits to get a second look and this time I looked at the directions sheet - I can agree there is some detail that Tamiya forgoes under the tank, but Tamiya are making attempts - look at the Yamaha M-1 kits they all have air intake ducting - most of the time bikes are displayed whole unless it's a diorama then they show the body work off etc.
After my second look - I agree the Hasegawa kits aren't as bad as I initially stated, but I still think Tamiya is the pinnacle of plastic 1/12 bike kits
Ref - rules and bike kit shortages - although rules were stable - no one wanted anyone not from their garage looking at the GP bikes because of competition, it didn't explain why there were no superbikes - especially when Tamiya did a street RC30 - FZR750 - 916 - where were the race versions??? -
John
andrew59it
09-30-2012, 07:10 AM
Hello good job till now...
Do you think cobal blue is right for the Suzuki 500 Telefonica too? Is it metallic or plain?
Thanks
Do you think cobal blue is right for the Suzuki 500 Telefonica too? Is it metallic or plain?
Thanks
The Sheene Machine
09-30-2012, 09:35 AM
Hello good job till now...
Do you think cobal blue is right for the Suzuki 500 Telefonica too? Is it metallic or plain?
Thanks
Yes I do Andrew. If you look at the box art for the '01 kit, the red section on the lower cowl is in fact flourescent red, so bearing this in mind, it tells you if this is the case, the other colour tones on the photo do not represent the actual bike...therefore the blue is lighter and given that both the Suzuki and Honda carried the same sponsor for 2001, I'm going with the cobalt blue too for mine. The blue is solid. I have photo's somewhere I took of the bike at a show here in the UK many yeras ago.
Here's Skylinefan's version in a similar blue, see what you think;
http://public.fotki.com/Daveyracer/gp_moto_and_other/2001_telefonica/
Do you think cobal blue is right for the Suzuki 500 Telefonica too? Is it metallic or plain?
Thanks
Yes I do Andrew. If you look at the box art for the '01 kit, the red section on the lower cowl is in fact flourescent red, so bearing this in mind, it tells you if this is the case, the other colour tones on the photo do not represent the actual bike...therefore the blue is lighter and given that both the Suzuki and Honda carried the same sponsor for 2001, I'm going with the cobalt blue too for mine. The blue is solid. I have photo's somewhere I took of the bike at a show here in the UK many yeras ago.
Here's Skylinefan's version in a similar blue, see what you think;
http://public.fotki.com/Daveyracer/gp_moto_and_other/2001_telefonica/
andrew59it
09-30-2012, 09:50 AM
Thank you
it seems solid but I have some reference where it seems metallic.... very hard to define.... Anyway better than the color suggested by tamiya...
it seems solid but I have some reference where it seems metallic.... very hard to define.... Anyway better than the color suggested by tamiya...
The Sheene Machine
09-30-2012, 10:10 AM
Thank you
it seems solid but I have some reference where it seems metallic.... very hard to define.... Anyway better than the color suggested by tamiya...
There does seem to be some flake in there, but in this scale it would be virtually invisble anyhow. The version I saw was definately solid.
it seems solid but I have some reference where it seems metallic.... very hard to define.... Anyway better than the color suggested by tamiya...
There does seem to be some flake in there, but in this scale it would be virtually invisble anyhow. The version I saw was definately solid.
The Sheene Machine
09-30-2012, 10:27 AM
Another update....
Frame is painted and CF decalled...painted frame first in satin black, added CF to seat area, masked off and cleared the CF, then polished out to 6000 grit to not leave the ultimate shine, giving a slightly waxy look...CF then masked off, and frame coated with rattle can satin black, then airbrushed with polished aluminium, then cleared with Alclad gloss cote. Same with the swingarm.
The wash was Tamiya acrylic smoke.
http://images28.fotki.com/v136/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8449-vi.jpg
The engine....airbrushed with Humbrol Metalcote steel, then dry brushed with a dry brush (no paint) which polished the highlights and offers a very natural look...paint looks a little dark in the pics....it looks better in the flesh.
http://images58.fotki.com/v506/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8440-vi.jpg
http://images59.fotki.com/v255/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8441-vi.jpg
The exhausts....painted rattle can satin black, the pipes were then masked off and the silencers clearcoated, while that was still tacky I airbrushed on two coats of Alclad. A wash with Tamiya smoke and shading with Tamiya clear orange. Retaining springs modified from MFH. Once decalled the silencer CF was airbrushed with two coats of Tamiya smoke to tone them down, as the decals are way too light for accuracy.
http://images43.fotki.com/v680/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8452-vi.jpg
Progress continues...
Frame is painted and CF decalled...painted frame first in satin black, added CF to seat area, masked off and cleared the CF, then polished out to 6000 grit to not leave the ultimate shine, giving a slightly waxy look...CF then masked off, and frame coated with rattle can satin black, then airbrushed with polished aluminium, then cleared with Alclad gloss cote. Same with the swingarm.
The wash was Tamiya acrylic smoke.
http://images28.fotki.com/v136/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8449-vi.jpg
The engine....airbrushed with Humbrol Metalcote steel, then dry brushed with a dry brush (no paint) which polished the highlights and offers a very natural look...paint looks a little dark in the pics....it looks better in the flesh.
http://images58.fotki.com/v506/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8440-vi.jpg
http://images59.fotki.com/v255/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8441-vi.jpg
The exhausts....painted rattle can satin black, the pipes were then masked off and the silencers clearcoated, while that was still tacky I airbrushed on two coats of Alclad. A wash with Tamiya smoke and shading with Tamiya clear orange. Retaining springs modified from MFH. Once decalled the silencer CF was airbrushed with two coats of Tamiya smoke to tone them down, as the decals are way too light for accuracy.
http://images43.fotki.com/v680/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8452-vi.jpg
Progress continues...
andrew59it
09-30-2012, 11:53 AM
The engine looks very realistic.... :thumbsup: Beautiful job on exhaust too.... really nice!
John18d
09-30-2012, 11:53 AM
Hey Paul - for your "smoke" wash that you use - How much do you reduce it?? I never seem to get that right. Also is it acrylic or enamel - the wash.
Ref the paint color - I have both the Zero Suzuki and Honda "telefonica" paint and they are slightly different - both come with a silver undercoat that appears the same but the blue for the Suzuki is a little more "cobalt blue" than the Honda. Also both the blues contain some silver so that it will have a "flake" appearance when sprayed. I my opinion they are so close to each other no one would be able to pick it out. The Suzuki is definitely a more "cobalt" blue than the Honda. Hope that helps some - John
Nice work on the engine Paul - looks very "real"
John
Ref the paint color - I have both the Zero Suzuki and Honda "telefonica" paint and they are slightly different - both come with a silver undercoat that appears the same but the blue for the Suzuki is a little more "cobalt blue" than the Honda. Also both the blues contain some silver so that it will have a "flake" appearance when sprayed. I my opinion they are so close to each other no one would be able to pick it out. The Suzuki is definitely a more "cobalt" blue than the Honda. Hope that helps some - John
Nice work on the engine Paul - looks very "real"
John
The Sheene Machine
09-30-2012, 03:01 PM
Hey Paul - for your "smoke" wash that you use - How much do you reduce it?? I never seem to get that right. Also is it acrylic or enamel - the wash.
Nice work on the engine Paul - looks very "real"
John
It's acrylic John, reduced about 50% with Tamiya thinners - I just test it until it runs okay, but I figure 50% at least should produce a paint that runs in the crevices etc..it seems to work well over Alclad finishes.
Thanks, the engine looks much better in the flesh..promise!! The metalcote looks grainy under the lens for some reason....it's in the frame now...:)
Nice work on the engine Paul - looks very "real"
John
It's acrylic John, reduced about 50% with Tamiya thinners - I just test it until it runs okay, but I figure 50% at least should produce a paint that runs in the crevices etc..it seems to work well over Alclad finishes.
Thanks, the engine looks much better in the flesh..promise!! The metalcote looks grainy under the lens for some reason....it's in the frame now...:)
John18d
09-30-2012, 04:44 PM
Paul - did you dry-brush the engine while still wet? or did you let it dry and then wear away some of the finish? I have some hubrol paints too - my local hobby shop gets them special order. Are they oil based or acrylic too? I need to know what to thin them with so I can airbrush them - Thanks Paul
If that engine looks even better in the flesh than the pictures it must be awesome. Even in the pictures it looks great. Was that the original shifter rod or was that a piece from Top Studio?
Pipes are very convincing too
I really am a fan of your work Paul - I saw your Aprilia 250s a while back - stunning work
John
If that engine looks even better in the flesh than the pictures it must be awesome. Even in the pictures it looks great. Was that the original shifter rod or was that a piece from Top Studio?
Pipes are very convincing too
I really am a fan of your work Paul - I saw your Aprilia 250s a while back - stunning work
John
The Sheene Machine
10-01-2012, 07:42 AM
Paul - did you dry-brush the engine while still wet? or did you let it dry and then wear away some of the finish? I have some hubrol paints too - my local hobby shop gets them special order. Are they oil based or acrylic too? I need to know what to thin them with so I can airbrush them - Thanks Paul
If that engine looks even better in the flesh than the pictures it must be awesome. Even in the pictures it looks great. Was that the original shifter rod or was that a piece from Top Studio?
Pipes are very convincing too
I really am a fan of your work Paul - I saw your Aprilia 250s a while back - stunning work
John
Thanks John,
The Humbrol's enamel metalcotes are designed to be buffed after drying, so I began a few years ago experimenting with thier steel and gunmetal colours and just using a drybrushing technique for highlights...I've done the same technique on brake disc mounts - I think it gives a nice finish, though it can and does mark without careful handling.
Metalcotes do not need thinning when they are new, they a much thinner than regular enamels, though after a while they do thicken up. I just use enamel thinners and thin to the consistency of milk. They airbrush on very well and very flat, so the drybrushing technique works well. Varying the amount of times you pass the brush over each area of course affects the final look. You can brush paint them on too, but this doesn't offer the same level of finish.
What you see on the engine is all from the kit. :)
If that engine looks even better in the flesh than the pictures it must be awesome. Even in the pictures it looks great. Was that the original shifter rod or was that a piece from Top Studio?
Pipes are very convincing too
I really am a fan of your work Paul - I saw your Aprilia 250s a while back - stunning work
John
Thanks John,
The Humbrol's enamel metalcotes are designed to be buffed after drying, so I began a few years ago experimenting with thier steel and gunmetal colours and just using a drybrushing technique for highlights...I've done the same technique on brake disc mounts - I think it gives a nice finish, though it can and does mark without careful handling.
Metalcotes do not need thinning when they are new, they a much thinner than regular enamels, though after a while they do thicken up. I just use enamel thinners and thin to the consistency of milk. They airbrush on very well and very flat, so the drybrushing technique works well. Varying the amount of times you pass the brush over each area of course affects the final look. You can brush paint them on too, but this doesn't offer the same level of finish.
What you see on the engine is all from the kit. :)
John18d
10-01-2012, 11:48 AM
Thanks Paul - I will give your technique a try on my next engine - John
SkylineFan
10-01-2012, 11:58 PM
Fantastic Work Paul and you nailed the blue in my opinion! I remember when I did the 2001 bike I shot the cowlings in Krylon True blue over grey primer, then a coat or two of Tamiya clear blue to give it a pop followed by clear... Tamiya Telefonica blue was WAY TOO DARK.... you nailed it!! I did the Scott livery of this kit and loved it for Scale Auto.. Keep going buddy!
The Sheene Machine
10-02-2012, 02:20 PM
Fantastic Work Paul...... Keep going buddy!
Thanks Dave - yep the colour worked out well, but kudos to you for taking the step to get the '01 bike right in the first place.
I was looking at your '09 bike yesterday in fact - turned out very nice, but then all your stuff does. I visit your Fotki most weeks to keep an eye on what your up to - as always it's an inspiration. It's hightime you finished that #24 fireworks car though....:bigthumb:
Thanks Dave - yep the colour worked out well, but kudos to you for taking the step to get the '01 bike right in the first place.
I was looking at your '09 bike yesterday in fact - turned out very nice, but then all your stuff does. I visit your Fotki most weeks to keep an eye on what your up to - as always it's an inspiration. It's hightime you finished that #24 fireworks car though....:bigthumb:
The Sheene Machine
11-17-2012, 01:16 PM
Firstly, apologies for the quality of the pics - There was some contamination on my lens filter which had a nice black mark on it ( I see these were in the last batch I took too :banghead: ), I have since cleaned it, but as it's around 15 years old, perhaps a new one would be in order. ££££'s!!
Time for an update...the model has moved on quite a way since my last post - I now have the bike on it's wheels with engine and intake ducting all on. I'm busy attending to some small details before getting the cowlings parts on and finishing her off. The kit is really well detailed, but suffers from soft plastic, so small delicate parts are easily broken. I'd recommend removing all of the 'nubs' for tubing and replacing with metal pins as most of them break off, the kit tubing is a little to tight for them, so way too much force is required to attached them in place. I've replaced some tubing with finer wire.
The engineering in this kit is first class, but it is difficult to handle once parts start going on. I've used the rear of seat as a handle which will be repainted by hand in black before the seat cowl is fitted.
I'm annoyed that I managed to scratch the paint on the air intake, this was painted black and mid stone with a light overspray of gun metal (works well) - I'll cover this with an appropriate sticker of some sort... :mad: The triangular decal at the bottom of the intake should be shaded with grey, but as it'll have the cowling on, I'm not bothering with it. There's been a couple of other disasters along the way and some tiny fit issues which are my fault, but overall it's okay. It should be done in the next update or two.
http://images56.fotki.com/v124/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8583-vi.jpg
http://images16.fotki.com/v377/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8581-vi.jpg
http://images45.fotki.com/v148/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8580-vi.jpg
http://images12.fotki.com/v216/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8579-vi.jpg
Time for an update...the model has moved on quite a way since my last post - I now have the bike on it's wheels with engine and intake ducting all on. I'm busy attending to some small details before getting the cowlings parts on and finishing her off. The kit is really well detailed, but suffers from soft plastic, so small delicate parts are easily broken. I'd recommend removing all of the 'nubs' for tubing and replacing with metal pins as most of them break off, the kit tubing is a little to tight for them, so way too much force is required to attached them in place. I've replaced some tubing with finer wire.
The engineering in this kit is first class, but it is difficult to handle once parts start going on. I've used the rear of seat as a handle which will be repainted by hand in black before the seat cowl is fitted.
I'm annoyed that I managed to scratch the paint on the air intake, this was painted black and mid stone with a light overspray of gun metal (works well) - I'll cover this with an appropriate sticker of some sort... :mad: The triangular decal at the bottom of the intake should be shaded with grey, but as it'll have the cowling on, I'm not bothering with it. There's been a couple of other disasters along the way and some tiny fit issues which are my fault, but overall it's okay. It should be done in the next update or two.
http://images56.fotki.com/v124/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8583-vi.jpg
http://images16.fotki.com/v377/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8581-vi.jpg
http://images45.fotki.com/v148/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8580-vi.jpg
http://images12.fotki.com/v216/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8579-vi.jpg
John18d
11-17-2012, 07:22 PM
looking good Paul
John
John
bvia
12-04-2012, 10:25 PM
Nice job!
John18d
12-04-2012, 11:32 PM
any updates Paul??
I had my LHS get me the Humbrol paints
I am going to try your technique of the dry brush after airbrushing to get that "metal" effect
I bought a book from Japan that also had this kit built - looks very much like yours - excellent work that is
John
I had my LHS get me the Humbrol paints
I am going to try your technique of the dry brush after airbrushing to get that "metal" effect
I bought a book from Japan that also had this kit built - looks very much like yours - excellent work that is
John
kemilk
12-05-2012, 04:29 PM
That is a great build. Attention to details and overall look is 1st class. By the way, where are you in Southampton?
The Sheene Machine
12-06-2012, 05:12 AM
any updates Paul??
I had my LHS get me the Humbrol paints
I am going to try your technique of the dry brush after airbrushing to get that "metal" effect
I bought a book from Japan that also had this kit built - looks very much like yours - excellent work that is
John
Thanks John, progress has been made, just haven't had time to do some photos(!), but the seat and tank are now in place along with the upper silencer, just finishing off small detail items and she'll be done. Don't worry, you'll not miss anything!! :cwm27:
That is a great build. Attention to details and overall look is 1st class. By the way, where are you in Southampton?
I'm not far from the University...
I had my LHS get me the Humbrol paints
I am going to try your technique of the dry brush after airbrushing to get that "metal" effect
I bought a book from Japan that also had this kit built - looks very much like yours - excellent work that is
John
Thanks John, progress has been made, just haven't had time to do some photos(!), but the seat and tank are now in place along with the upper silencer, just finishing off small detail items and she'll be done. Don't worry, you'll not miss anything!! :cwm27:
That is a great build. Attention to details and overall look is 1st class. By the way, where are you in Southampton?
I'm not far from the University...
racer93
12-07-2012, 11:13 AM
Great job, Paul! I have this in my stash and really like to build this era (500cc, even though it's a 250) bike. From my look over of it, it's MILES ahead of the Fujimi bikes and very close to the Tamiya ones. You've done a masterful job of this, looks very, very clean and well done.
Did I see it correctly that you used the #80 Mr Color for the body color?
Did I see it correctly that you used the #80 Mr Color for the body color?
The Sheene Machine
12-07-2012, 03:13 PM
Great job, Paul! I have this in my stash and really like to build this era (500cc, even though it's a 250) bike. From my look over of it, it's MILES ahead of the Fujimi bikes and very close to the Tamiya ones. You've done a masterful job of this, looks very, very clean and well done.
Did I see it correctly that you used the #80 Mr Color for the body color?
Thank you...
I have yet to tackle a Fujimi bike kit, I have the Schwantz GSXR750 and Roberts Yamaha kits in the stash, so I can't comment, but the detail from Hasegawa is better than Tamiya but suffers from a soft grey plastic in my opinion...
Yes, I used Mr Hobby Colour #80 over white primer. In the flesh the colour looks very close (and good for the 2001 Suzuki too). Much better than the too dark Telefonica blues....
Did I see it correctly that you used the #80 Mr Color for the body color?
Thank you...
I have yet to tackle a Fujimi bike kit, I have the Schwantz GSXR750 and Roberts Yamaha kits in the stash, so I can't comment, but the detail from Hasegawa is better than Tamiya but suffers from a soft grey plastic in my opinion...
Yes, I used Mr Hobby Colour #80 over white primer. In the flesh the colour looks very close (and good for the 2001 Suzuki too). Much better than the too dark Telefonica blues....
The Sheene Machine
12-09-2012, 08:30 AM
Another update from me...
As you can see from the photos, I've yet to eliminate the black mark....it must be on the inside of the lens, the mirror or focusing screen... :mad:
Anyhow, I've since airbrushed the insides of the fairing and lower cowl using Zero semi-gloss black and painted the underside of the tank(not that you can see it once on!) with Alclad Stainless Steel...
http://images54.fotki.com/v627/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8587-vi.jpg
http://images50.fotki.com/v1524/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8598-vi.jpg
I've mounted the upper silencer, seat and tank and begun adding some more plumbing, which again proved a little troublesome - the tank breather tube was a bugger to fit, and also the length given in the instructions is way too long, I shorten mine by 10mm...
I also realised a mistake (in fact a few months ago) - I overlooked adding part B30 during the assembly of the tank, frankly I missed it as it's not included in the exploded diagram of how the tank goes together, it shown as the tank is added and I must have thought it was part of the filler cap...it's not. It's actually part of the tank and is a slightly raised welded part that forms the location for the cap and it should be painted with the tank. I decided to paint mine with Alclad making a larger looking cap... :banghead:
http://images49.fotki.com/v1510/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8595-vi.jpg
Some general views of the bike as it is now....just finished the handlebars and should have them on very soon.
http://images51.fotki.com/v90/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8590-vi.jpg
http://images12.fotki.com/v531/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8591-vi.jpg
http://images60.fotki.com/v361/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8592-vi.jpg
http://images61.fotki.com/v1609/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8593-vi.jpg
http://images51.fotki.com/v424/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8594-vi.jpg
The blue in the flesh is darker than seen here and looks very good to my eyes.
More soon. :D
As you can see from the photos, I've yet to eliminate the black mark....it must be on the inside of the lens, the mirror or focusing screen... :mad:
Anyhow, I've since airbrushed the insides of the fairing and lower cowl using Zero semi-gloss black and painted the underside of the tank(not that you can see it once on!) with Alclad Stainless Steel...
http://images54.fotki.com/v627/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8587-vi.jpg
http://images50.fotki.com/v1524/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8598-vi.jpg
I've mounted the upper silencer, seat and tank and begun adding some more plumbing, which again proved a little troublesome - the tank breather tube was a bugger to fit, and also the length given in the instructions is way too long, I shorten mine by 10mm...
I also realised a mistake (in fact a few months ago) - I overlooked adding part B30 during the assembly of the tank, frankly I missed it as it's not included in the exploded diagram of how the tank goes together, it shown as the tank is added and I must have thought it was part of the filler cap...it's not. It's actually part of the tank and is a slightly raised welded part that forms the location for the cap and it should be painted with the tank. I decided to paint mine with Alclad making a larger looking cap... :banghead:
http://images49.fotki.com/v1510/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8595-vi.jpg
Some general views of the bike as it is now....just finished the handlebars and should have them on very soon.
http://images51.fotki.com/v90/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8590-vi.jpg
http://images12.fotki.com/v531/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8591-vi.jpg
http://images60.fotki.com/v361/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8592-vi.jpg
http://images61.fotki.com/v1609/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8593-vi.jpg
http://images51.fotki.com/v424/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8594-vi.jpg
The blue in the flesh is darker than seen here and looks very good to my eyes.
More soon. :D
John18d
12-09-2012, 10:47 AM
Awesome installment Paul - your work is always so clean and purposeful - not to mention your pictures are clear and focused and of a size where the forum viewer can see the detailed work you have done.
I first saw your work on the Roomsey website with the Assen Assasin build then I saw your resin Aprillia 250 - both excellent work.
Thanks for giving us the warning about the fuel tank "bung" ring
I look forward to seeing this one finished off - I know it will be worthy of your skills
what type of camera are you using Paul?
John
I first saw your work on the Roomsey website with the Assen Assasin build then I saw your resin Aprillia 250 - both excellent work.
Thanks for giving us the warning about the fuel tank "bung" ring
I look forward to seeing this one finished off - I know it will be worthy of your skills
what type of camera are you using Paul?
John
The Sheene Machine
12-10-2012, 02:52 PM
Thanks John,
I use a Canon 30D SLR which is only fitted with a standard 18-55mm lens. Would love a macro lens, but they are serious $$!
Got the handlebars on last night....a tip for anyone doing these bike kits from Hasegawa is to strengthen the mount for the bars, the kit only comes with a 2-3mm stub for the bar to be mounted on to..:confused:....nowhere near enough to withstand a fall should the model fall over. On my next Hasegawa kit, I'll put some metal pins in that will extend further into the handlebar grip.
I use a Canon 30D SLR which is only fitted with a standard 18-55mm lens. Would love a macro lens, but they are serious $$!
Got the handlebars on last night....a tip for anyone doing these bike kits from Hasegawa is to strengthen the mount for the bars, the kit only comes with a 2-3mm stub for the bar to be mounted on to..:confused:....nowhere near enough to withstand a fall should the model fall over. On my next Hasegawa kit, I'll put some metal pins in that will extend further into the handlebar grip.
The Sheene Machine
12-31-2012, 10:30 AM
At long last the bike is finished......and am I glad to get this one out of the way... :banghead:
I'd like to say that this model was a delight to construct.....I could have if it wasn't over- engineered to such an extent that there is little tolerance for paint when you come to fit it all together. Only yesterday is was drilling out holes to allow for the fairing to fit correctly, and there's not much clearance for that to fit either around all of the internal parts.... :headshake
The handlebar mounts on this model (and probably other Hasegawa kits too) need to be strengthened, as the 2-3mm stubs for the bars are simply not strong enough should the bike fall over - mine has four times...on future builds I'll insert some pins into the stubs that will go into the grips further.
One other problem I found was the left side upper fairing brace was too long, which when fitted broke both of the mounting nubs for the windscreen...I eventually removed and shortened it...the footpeg mounting holes were'nt large enough either....and....
Despite cleaning the camera, the black mark persists....
Anyhow, enough whining...it's New Years Eve, and next year is a whole new modelling experience to be had. :wink:
http://images52.fotki.com/v726/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8603-vi.jpg
http://images61.fotki.com/v536/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8610-vi.jpg
More photos in the completed section.
I'd like to say that this model was a delight to construct.....I could have if it wasn't over- engineered to such an extent that there is little tolerance for paint when you come to fit it all together. Only yesterday is was drilling out holes to allow for the fairing to fit correctly, and there's not much clearance for that to fit either around all of the internal parts.... :headshake
The handlebar mounts on this model (and probably other Hasegawa kits too) need to be strengthened, as the 2-3mm stubs for the bars are simply not strong enough should the bike fall over - mine has four times...on future builds I'll insert some pins into the stubs that will go into the grips further.
One other problem I found was the left side upper fairing brace was too long, which when fitted broke both of the mounting nubs for the windscreen...I eventually removed and shortened it...the footpeg mounting holes were'nt large enough either....and....
Despite cleaning the camera, the black mark persists....
Anyhow, enough whining...it's New Years Eve, and next year is a whole new modelling experience to be had. :wink:
http://images52.fotki.com/v726/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8603-vi.jpg
http://images61.fotki.com/v536/photos/9/823979/10260709/IMG_8610-vi.jpg
More photos in the completed section.
Duncan1098
01-02-2013, 08:21 AM
Great result, looks supurb, I do like the livery as well
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