Cap/Rotor
s10blazerman4x4
09-11-2012, 06:17 PM
1999 4.3 Blazer
Trouble starting after rain, finally no start.
Replaced cap/rotor. Few questions on this. New cap seems to have play to it yet both screws are tight as they go. Rotor seemed say way so I presume it to be normal. After startup, idle seems fine but when applying brakes wants to stall out. Leaning towards vacuum leak in distributor area/throttle body area where I was working. I don't see any hoses that are obviously off. Wires labeled prior to removal so I am pretty confident that is ok.
Was leaning towards maybe the brake booster vacuum line as being loose but I checked that and it seemed tight. Do hear air whistling in there that is not from the fan but can't exactly track it down. Any suggestions?
Trouble starting after rain, finally no start.
Replaced cap/rotor. Few questions on this. New cap seems to have play to it yet both screws are tight as they go. Rotor seemed say way so I presume it to be normal. After startup, idle seems fine but when applying brakes wants to stall out. Leaning towards vacuum leak in distributor area/throttle body area where I was working. I don't see any hoses that are obviously off. Wires labeled prior to removal so I am pretty confident that is ok.
Was leaning towards maybe the brake booster vacuum line as being loose but I checked that and it seemed tight. Do hear air whistling in there that is not from the fan but can't exactly track it down. Any suggestions?
Rick Norwood
09-11-2012, 09:26 PM
Yes, a couple of things, first, did you buy an AC-Delco Cap and Rotor? If not, that might be part of your problem. Second, Double check all of the vacuum lines, both big and small to make sure they're not flopping around or loose. I did that once and when I finally found the biggest Fricking hose on the system laying loose, I felt pretty stupid. Third, remove your distributor cap and look for moisture inside the distributor and also inside of the cap. If you see any moisture, Momma's portable hair dryer will do wonders to dry it up, then put a light coat of grease around the bottom lip of the new cap and re-install and start the truck. Forth, If you buy a Spray can of Carburator cleaner and spray it around the hoses and other areas of where there is vacuum, you might see it suck in, or at least hear a change in RPM. Fifth, One of my older Blazers had a 1/4 inch vacuum line that wrapped around the base of the distributor. The Distributor housing down below the cap burnt a hole in this little stinking hose and it took me forever to find the SOB. Trace all of your vacuum lines with your fingers as far as you can to see/feel for holes, splits, and dry rot etc. Sixth, check your vacuum ball for cracks.
s10blazerman4x4
09-11-2012, 09:40 PM
Yes AC Delco on both, one thing I noticed was that the cap didn't lock on the top of the distributor but everything lined up.
Ill check for hoses that may be off.
Thanks
Ill check for hoses that may be off.
Thanks
Rick Norwood
09-11-2012, 09:48 PM
Yes AC Delco on both, one thing I noticed was that the cap didn't lock on the top of the distributor but everything lined up.
Ill check for hoses that may be off.
ThanksGood Job buying the AC-Delco Cap! :grinyes::bananasmi
Ill check for hoses that may be off.
ThanksGood Job buying the AC-Delco Cap! :grinyes::bananasmi
blazee
09-12-2012, 09:17 AM
Wow, Shawn and Rick in the same thread? What is this 2004?
Rick Norwood
09-12-2012, 09:25 AM
Wow, Shawn and Rick in the same thread? What is this 2004?Yeah, well Ya Know some things never change. Where ya been Chris? Ain't seen you in a while?:runaround:
blazee
09-12-2012, 10:10 AM
Yeah, well Ya Know some things never change. Where ya been Chris? Ain't seen you in a while?:runaround:I've been busy rebuilding my meth lab. The other one blew up.
Haha, I've been around I just don't post much anymore.
Haha, I've been around I just don't post much anymore.
Rick Norwood
09-12-2012, 10:11 AM
Good to know that you are still yuk'n it up!
s10blazerman4x4
09-12-2012, 04:36 PM
Wow, Shawn and Rick in the same thread? What is this 2004?
Only one missing is Mike lol.
Funny thing about this whole thing is I sold this car to my sister in February but everytime it breaks, I get called into service to fix it. It is having seperation anxiety. The wife and I got a 2000 Cherokee now and that thing is a PITA to fix so that usually gets sent off to the mechanic. This is why I had the dumb question about should this cap have play because on the Cherokee, I changed the coil rail and that was pretty painless. No wires to mess up, no screws to lose.
Only one missing is Mike lol.
Funny thing about this whole thing is I sold this car to my sister in February but everytime it breaks, I get called into service to fix it. It is having seperation anxiety. The wife and I got a 2000 Cherokee now and that thing is a PITA to fix so that usually gets sent off to the mechanic. This is why I had the dumb question about should this cap have play because on the Cherokee, I changed the coil rail and that was pretty painless. No wires to mess up, no screws to lose.
s10blazerman4x4
09-12-2012, 04:37 PM
I've been busy rebuilding my meth lab. The other one blew up.
Haha, I've been around I just don't post much anymore.
I think what happens is the old guard just moves on and we just leave our knowledge in the forum for others to find via the search button. But every once in awhile the old guard reunites on here.
Haha, I've been around I just don't post much anymore.
I think what happens is the old guard just moves on and we just leave our knowledge in the forum for others to find via the search button. But every once in awhile the old guard reunites on here.
mike1224
09-12-2012, 07:56 PM
Only one missing is Mike lol.
Funny thing about this whole thing is I sold this car to my sister in February but everytime it breaks, I get called into service to fix it. It is having seperation anxiety. The wife and I got a 2000 Cherokee now and that thing is a PITA to fix so that usually gets sent off to the mechanic. This is why I had the dumb question about should this cap have play because on the Cherokee, I changed the coil rail and that was pretty painless. No wires to mess up, no screws to lose.
I heard my name being called... and 2004 was a decent year for me blazee, lets head back.
Funny thing about this whole thing is I sold this car to my sister in February but everytime it breaks, I get called into service to fix it. It is having seperation anxiety. The wife and I got a 2000 Cherokee now and that thing is a PITA to fix so that usually gets sent off to the mechanic. This is why I had the dumb question about should this cap have play because on the Cherokee, I changed the coil rail and that was pretty painless. No wires to mess up, no screws to lose.
I heard my name being called... and 2004 was a decent year for me blazee, lets head back.
s10blazerman4x4
09-12-2012, 08:00 PM
Not bad for me either.
Looking like Saturday I get another look at this. Will report back then what I see.
Looking like Saturday I get another look at this. Will report back then what I see.
Rick Norwood
09-13-2012, 07:48 AM
Only one missing is Mike lol.Aw C'mon we need BlazerLT just to mix things up LOL.
s10blazerman4x4
09-13-2012, 03:21 PM
Aw C'mon we need BlazerLT just to mix things up LOL.
That was the first thought that went through my mind but didnt want to fire up the maple leaf. Haha
That was the first thought that went through my mind but didnt want to fire up the maple leaf. Haha
Rick Norwood
09-13-2012, 03:38 PM
:runaround: Chicken!:runaround:
s10blazerman4x4
09-15-2012, 12:32 PM
Mid afternoon update.
Problem solved. Apparently the 5 and 1 when taken off the cap the numbering got a little rubbed. Hence they were switched on the cap. Took off throttle hat, checked all lines from brake booster, everything around distributor nothing out of normal. Followed all plug wires on passenger side up to cap all in order did same on drivers side. Started up as soon as foot on brake stall. Got out switched 5 and 1 and restarted and voila. Ran down street, engine light went out and it seemed smooth. Other thing I did was retighten the cap.
Thanks
Problem solved. Apparently the 5 and 1 when taken off the cap the numbering got a little rubbed. Hence they were switched on the cap. Took off throttle hat, checked all lines from brake booster, everything around distributor nothing out of normal. Followed all plug wires on passenger side up to cap all in order did same on drivers side. Started up as soon as foot on brake stall. Got out switched 5 and 1 and restarted and voila. Ran down street, engine light went out and it seemed smooth. Other thing I did was retighten the cap.
Thanks
blazee
09-15-2012, 12:40 PM
Are you sure that you have it right? 1 and 3 are the ones that should be reversed.
s10blazerman4x4
09-15-2012, 12:55 PM
Yeh I think Im sure.
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t9070132-1999_chevrolet_blazer_firing_order
When going off of that diagram, on the cap I had 5 where 1 is and 1 where 5 was. 3 had a clear 3 on the wire yet so that is kinda how I nailed it down.
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t9070132-1999_chevrolet_blazer_firing_order
When going off of that diagram, on the cap I had 5 where 1 is and 1 where 5 was. 3 had a clear 3 on the wire yet so that is kinda how I nailed it down.
blazee
09-15-2012, 01:15 PM
Okay, sounds like you got it. I guess I made this for nothing.
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r10/blazeepics/FiringOrder.jpg
http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r10/blazeepics/FiringOrder.jpg
s10blazerman4x4
09-15-2012, 02:06 PM
Nah not for nothing now its here for everyone to use.
I made one before I went out to work on it last weekend.
I made one before I went out to work on it last weekend.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026
