Transmission Mount How-To
LittleHoov
09-02-2012, 11:22 PM
I fairly recently replaced my lower front engine mount, which was essentially torn in half. See walkthrough for that here:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1076561
This thread and that one both apply to 99-02 Intrigues with the 3.5 V6
I was still having some lingering vibration issues, and a strange clicking/smacking noise occasionally while taking off in reverse. I also realized that when in Drive, the engine/transmission pulls against that front mount, which was as I said torn in half, so I figured the rear mounts evidently weren't doing their job well.
I decided to tackle the transmission mount, since it looked fairly easy.
You wont need anything that I would consider "special" for this job. Ramps are not necessary for doing this one shadetree style like they are for the front one.
So lets get started.
If your vehicle has a strut tower brace, you will want to remove it now. Also keep the hood raised during this project.
I chose to loosen the upper "dogbone" mount that runs from the radiator support to the engine. This may or may not be necessary, but in my mind it makes jacking the engine up later in the process easier.
Jack up and properly support the vehicle. Properly supported means a jackstand or possibly some blocks, but I find blocks very hard to do on this vehicle.
Remove wheel and tire, this sort of blends together with the previous step of course. Ideally you would loosen the lugnuts while still on the ground, jack up, support, and then remove the wheel.
Remove the plastic shrouding that you just revealed by removing the wheel. It is held on by 3 plastic screw/pin "thingies" which for the life of me I couldnt get to come out. My approach was a good, firm tug and one popped out, another one broke, and I was able to get enough clearance to work without removing the last one (hardest one to get to).
You should be staring the transmission mount in the face. There are two nuts on the top, and two nuts on the bottom. Mine were 15mm, but you will want to of course check for proper fit in your case before unleashing the beast on them.
The bad news, is that in my experience, the only thing that will fit on the top nuts is a box-end wrench. My ratcheting box end would not fit, but they have thick walled heads. If you have a thinner set it might work. But for me it was lots of quality time with the box end.....use caution around the brake line while loosening the nuts.
The bottom nuts are much the same, except that I was able to a ratcheting box end on those, which made life a little easier.
Once all 4 nuts have been removed you will want to begin raising the engine. As with the front mount, I personally think a scissor-style jack like the one in the trunk of your Intrigue works great. I have another jack of the same style that does not have the built in handle like the Intrigues jack, but is instead just a 3/4 nut, I chose to use this one instead, its easy to put a socket on and crank away.
I placed a block of wood underneath the transmission pan and slowly raise the engine/transmission. If you are going to use this method you must use a block of wood or something similar to distribute the force of the jack.
Lift the engine/trans until you have enough clearance to remove the mount, an extra set of eyes and ears is helpful hear. I was notified though by a clunk sound as the mount came free.
Quickly remove the mount and place you new one in the location. I was not able to see any difference in turning the new mount one way or another.
I replaced with Anchor part 2721. It is stated by RockAuto to be a hydraulic mount. They also offer one from DEA that is solid, I chose not to go that route though.
I held the mount "floating" with all 4 bolts in their respective holes and had someone else slowly lower the jack back down (watch your fingers kids!).
Reinstall your nuts and anything else you removed during the process and congratulations your done.
I found this pretty easy, and an absolute walk in the park compared to the front engine mount.
Hope this helps someone in the future.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1076561
This thread and that one both apply to 99-02 Intrigues with the 3.5 V6
I was still having some lingering vibration issues, and a strange clicking/smacking noise occasionally while taking off in reverse. I also realized that when in Drive, the engine/transmission pulls against that front mount, which was as I said torn in half, so I figured the rear mounts evidently weren't doing their job well.
I decided to tackle the transmission mount, since it looked fairly easy.
You wont need anything that I would consider "special" for this job. Ramps are not necessary for doing this one shadetree style like they are for the front one.
So lets get started.
If your vehicle has a strut tower brace, you will want to remove it now. Also keep the hood raised during this project.
I chose to loosen the upper "dogbone" mount that runs from the radiator support to the engine. This may or may not be necessary, but in my mind it makes jacking the engine up later in the process easier.
Jack up and properly support the vehicle. Properly supported means a jackstand or possibly some blocks, but I find blocks very hard to do on this vehicle.
Remove wheel and tire, this sort of blends together with the previous step of course. Ideally you would loosen the lugnuts while still on the ground, jack up, support, and then remove the wheel.
Remove the plastic shrouding that you just revealed by removing the wheel. It is held on by 3 plastic screw/pin "thingies" which for the life of me I couldnt get to come out. My approach was a good, firm tug and one popped out, another one broke, and I was able to get enough clearance to work without removing the last one (hardest one to get to).
You should be staring the transmission mount in the face. There are two nuts on the top, and two nuts on the bottom. Mine were 15mm, but you will want to of course check for proper fit in your case before unleashing the beast on them.
The bad news, is that in my experience, the only thing that will fit on the top nuts is a box-end wrench. My ratcheting box end would not fit, but they have thick walled heads. If you have a thinner set it might work. But for me it was lots of quality time with the box end.....use caution around the brake line while loosening the nuts.
The bottom nuts are much the same, except that I was able to a ratcheting box end on those, which made life a little easier.
Once all 4 nuts have been removed you will want to begin raising the engine. As with the front mount, I personally think a scissor-style jack like the one in the trunk of your Intrigue works great. I have another jack of the same style that does not have the built in handle like the Intrigues jack, but is instead just a 3/4 nut, I chose to use this one instead, its easy to put a socket on and crank away.
I placed a block of wood underneath the transmission pan and slowly raise the engine/transmission. If you are going to use this method you must use a block of wood or something similar to distribute the force of the jack.
Lift the engine/trans until you have enough clearance to remove the mount, an extra set of eyes and ears is helpful hear. I was notified though by a clunk sound as the mount came free.
Quickly remove the mount and place you new one in the location. I was not able to see any difference in turning the new mount one way or another.
I replaced with Anchor part 2721. It is stated by RockAuto to be a hydraulic mount. They also offer one from DEA that is solid, I chose not to go that route though.
I held the mount "floating" with all 4 bolts in their respective holes and had someone else slowly lower the jack back down (watch your fingers kids!).
Reinstall your nuts and anything else you removed during the process and congratulations your done.
I found this pretty easy, and an absolute walk in the park compared to the front engine mount.
Hope this helps someone in the future.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026