Low MPG issue (need a little help here)

Hi, I got a 2002 ford taurus lx 6 cyl 3.0 V6 72,00 miles on it. Runs like a top. Air filter looks clean,changed oil, inflated tires, using regular gas only getting about 10 mpg (calculated @ 18 gal tank) suburban driving, groceries and such.
Ford "says" 20 to 28 (i dont think it EVER got that but would like to get a bit more. Something has to be wrong.
Im going to try and change the plugs (theyre old) and use that 'sea foam' injector cleaner in the fuel this week.
Somehow I dont think this will be enough.
PS Ignition module was recently replaced (for differrent reason) did not affect mileage and ignition wires are old but they still look good.
Any ideas greatly appreciated
BTW, im kinda broke and have only basic sockets and such (no test equip but multimeter)
Thanks!

1) Clean MAF sensor with CRC MAF/Electronic cleaner.
2) Try new up-stream H20 sensors.

A dirty MAF could certainly cause poor fuel economy without other obvious symptoms. You can get a can of cleaner for probably $7 and you will benefit from a set of security Torx bits so you can remove the MAF sensor itself. The bits shouldn't cost more than another $8 (typically can be found for much less). Additionally, it wouldn't to perform a tune up on the car, especially the spark plugs and plug wires. Heck, it the combination of these doubled your fuel economy back up to the low ratings, that would pay for the cost of the parts in short order. It would take a bit longer to recoup the parts cost if you would be paying a shop to install them.

-Rod

Thank you both for the quick and detailed response. I will do these things and report back how things go.

Info - Fords model T (Tin Lizzy) got 13-21 mpg over 100years ago!

With poor fuel economy + emissions, she should throw a DTC soon.

A dirty MAF could certainly cause poor fuel economy without other obvious symptoms. You can get a can of cleaner for probably $7 and you will benefit from a set of security Torx bits so you can remove the MAF sensor itself. The bits shouldn't cost more than another $8 (typically can be found for much less). Additionally, it wouldn't to perform a tune up on the car, especially the spark plugs and plug wires. Heck, it the combination of these doubled your fuel economy back up to the low ratings, that would pay for the cost of the parts in short order. It would take a bit longer to recoup the parts cost if you would be paying a shop to install them.

-Rod
3.0 L V6 OHC (12 valve i think)

Hi, so I cleaned MAF sensor properly (it kinda looked ok but glad I did anyway).
I have now looked at a spark plug to see if cleanable and its no way. They are totally done.
Question: The rear plugs look pretty hard to get to. Any tips on replacing them without removing the manifold? What is the best way?
BTW, You have helped me before, about 8 months ago re: backflush heater core, (I have a new username because I forgot the last one)
Just kudos:)
PS:it worked!

A whole lot is depending upon how, where you drive, and the season.
In summer my in town mileage drops to half of winter. The A/C is on ALL the time and looong traffic signals combined with stop and go gives me 15 MPG if I'm lucky.
AND, YES, I do try to drive like an old fogey.

I don't know if there are any tricks that will make the rear plugs easy, but it's really not that bad of a job to remove the intake. If this is a first time for you, take plenty of digital photos along the way and you should find that it's well worth your time to get that out of the way.

-Rod

Anyone sit parked with the A/C running? I see lots of that - those folks drag down the MPG big time.