Car loses power when accelerating hard after using Seafoam

So I decided to do some preventive maintenance on my 2007 Ford Fusion (3.0L) over the weekend, just passed 100km. This included a spark plug change, which apparently really needed it when looking at the plugs I took out, and also trying to clean out any carbon build up. To clean the engine I added about a half can of Seafoam to the gas tank and half can through the intake using the spray can, as per the instructions on the can. Admittedly I was hesitant at doing this.

After letting the car sit for the 5 min stated, I started it up expecting a bunch of smoke. I got very little to none. I did however get a check engine warning light. I figured this was caused by the extra crap going through system so I let it run a while and then took it for a "hard drive". Again, as per the directions. Driving through town everything seemed good. When I got on the highway, I decided to let it loose. For about 1 sec the car seemed take off, then suddenly died. No acceleration or reving when pressing the gas, and the Throttle Control/Transmission (wrench) light came on. The car still had power and still idled, just no acceleration. I pulled over, turned the car off (the Throttle Control/Transmission alarm went away) and on and drove home, slowly. I unhooked the battery when I got home and it reset the check engine light. I hoped this had fixed the issue. Also, the car seemed to rev without any problem when in park.

Today on my way to work, the first time I hit the gas the same thing happened. I was also able to slowly accelerate up to highway speed, but it eventually happened again, even without hitting the gas hard. I took it to the shop and they reset the code. After a few failed attempts we finally got the car going and driving normal. I left shop and drove it around for 45min or so while accelerating hard every so often, no problems. The shop figured, given the codes they read, the throttle body was gummed up from the Seaform and just needed some running to clean it all out.

I decided to take the car out again tonight just to see if the problem was gone for good. I didn't make it very far when the same thing happened. I'm at a loss now. I could take it back to the shop, but I wanted to see if someone might have any ideas before I start forking out cash to replace something that may or may not be broken. I've read that MAF or O2 sensors could cause similar problems but the Seafoam shouldn't have effected the MAF, not sure about the O2 sensors.

Sorry about the long msg, just didn't want to leave anything out.

Where did you inject the SeaFoam from for the decarb? I've used SeaFoam as a decarb for at least 3 cars with throttle by wire, but I've always introduced the SeaFoam after the throttle body. I've never had any trouble.

I don't really see any way the SeaFoam could "gum up" the throttle plate, but I suppose it could soften some carbon enough that it might flow between the plate and the throttle body.

What is the specific code number that you are getting for the throttle body? Maybe the code will point us in a better direction that "must be gummed up." Have you tried pulling the spark plugs to inspect them and make sure they are not fouled? Did you ever notice a bunch of smoke from the exhaust?

Here's a photo of what I'd expect you to see. This is from my wife's 2010 Lincoln MKT with 35k miles on it (and throttle by wire) following a SeaFoam decarb. This is after the 5 minute waiting period, at restart, looking in to my garage.
http://i538.photobucket.com/albums/ff342/raschmidt/Automotive/2010%20Lincoln%20MKT/SeaFoam-small.jpg

-Rod

Of course! you have to check your maf sensor. A bad maf sensor can cause for problems such as a severe drop in power, inability in accelerating. The maf sensor can be cleaned to restore performances in most cases without having replaced them. Unless you're satisfied with cleaning, then replace.

As per the instructions, I placed the hose from the Seafoam spray can about a 1/4 from the throttle plate. The hose kinda loops down in between the intake tube (clamp) and the throttle body, right before the plate. This is after the MAF so I didn't think that would be a problem.

I'm not sure what the codes were, but I'm going to try to borrow a reader tonight and check. I'll also have a quick look at the plugs just to be sure. I just did a quick search and apparently there was a recall on the Fusion electronic throttle body (not sure of the years). People are saying they had the exact same problem. I'm really hoping this isn't the issue because it's past the warranty period and I hear it can be about a $700 repair job. How hard would it be to replace the throttle body my self? Doesn't look like it would take much!

Most auto parts stores will read and clear trouble codes for free. Let us know what you find and if the same code shows up again after you clear it.

I have yet to encounter a throttle body that is difficult to remove and replace. The expensive part though would be the throttle body assembly, especially with the throttle by wire electrics.

-Rod

Ok, so the codes I am reading are:

P2104 (pending) - Throttle Actuator Ctrl System - Forced Idle
P2112 (pending) - Throttle Actuator Ctrl System - Stuck Closed

I'm not really sure what "Pending" refers to. I haven't yet erased the codes or taken the car back out. I did have a look around and noticed something interesting. The plugs seemed ok, a little tarnished on the side electrode. The intake however had a light brown liquid residue all over the place. There was a little bit along the intake tube and quite a bit under the filter as shown in the picture (the filter is brand new put in at the same time). I even found some around the pins of the connector on the throttle body. I've cleaned up what I could. Funny part is, looking past the throttle plate, everything still looks dirty. I'm not sure much of that Seafoam made it into the intake.

So was this SeaFoam in an aerosol can (you mention "spray can"), or the type that you unscrew the lid from and use a hose on a vacuum port to suck the SeaFoam up? I've only used the screw top style. If there is an aerosol kind I'm not aware of it. If you used a spray can I could understand the mist to be too well atomized to really attack the sludge and carbon. That still doesn't fix your throttle body issue though. It may be in your best interest, based on your most recent post, to use some electrical contact cleaner to clean the throttle body connector and reinstall.

-Rod

-Rod

Yup, it's an aerosol can, kinda like WD40. I used this because I was a little hesitant on dumping anything down a vacuum hose. I'm going to attempt to give all the parts a good cleaning. Any recommendations on how or what products to use for cleaning the MAF and inside the throttle body. I assume I will have to replace a gasket if I remove the throttle body from the manifold, is that correct?

Thanks for all the help everyone!

Just thought I'd give a quick update in case other find it helpful.

So, basically what I did was remove the throttle body, intake and manifold. Replaced the throttle body gasket and cleaned the throttle body with specific throttle body cleaner. I also cleaned the MAF with specific MAF cleaner, as well as the MAP sensor. I cleaned all electrical connectors using 99% isopropyl alcohol (no need to use specific and expensive contact cleaner). Lastly I cleaned up as much gunk out of any ports into the manifold. All cleaning was done using Q-tips and soft tooth brush.

I've had the car back on the road for almost two weeks now and haven't had any issues. I did have the battery disconnected for a few days while waiting on parts, so that may have helped. It also seemed like it took the car a few days of driving to re-adjust. Hopefully I won't see any more issues.

Now it's time to work on the brakes!

Caution - Never mussel open the throttle plate on a Electronic Throttle body during a Throttle body cleaning, it will lose the the calibration.

Have a helper turn the Key on, and push the electronic acceletor pedal down while you do the cleaning.

Caution - Never mussel open the throttle plate on a Electronic Throttle body during a Throttle body cleaning, it will lose the the calibration.

Have a helper turn the Key on, and push the electronic acceletor pedal down while you do the cleaning.

Thanks

That brings up a good point. I didn't think about that until after I did the cleaning (with throttle body off the car). I haven't had any issues though. I did do a bit of research into it at the time and found a bunch of information relating to throttle body alignment (TBA) using a VAG-COM as well as numerous references to doing the key on, wait a few min until the hum goes away method, although many are sceptical on whether that works. However, all the information I could find was for VW's and Audi's. I'm curious on how this works on other manufacturer's, i.e. the Ford Fusion for one. I would have assumed that the throttle body should automatically re-align its self to the min/max positions.