Repair manual opinions
terrapin88
07-23-2012, 11:30 AM
hey all.
great site. I'm glad I found it.
I have recently inherited a 2000 Regal LSE with 177,000 on it. It runs well but has a few quirks I need to fix. I've used Haynes and Chiltons manuals for years, and they are ok but lack specific detail and try to cram too many models and years into one small manual.
I have a factory manual for my motorcycle, and it's been a god send. I want one for the Regal, but the ones I've found for the 2000 are too much $$$ for my wallet.
I've found some 1998 and 1999 Buick Regal Factory service manuals for a fraction of the price of the 2k manuals. I am assuming that there would be little to no difference between the 1998-2000 model years, so I should have no issues using a 98 or 99 service manual, correct?
Thanks for taking a look-
Chris
great site. I'm glad I found it.
I have recently inherited a 2000 Regal LSE with 177,000 on it. It runs well but has a few quirks I need to fix. I've used Haynes and Chiltons manuals for years, and they are ok but lack specific detail and try to cram too many models and years into one small manual.
I have a factory manual for my motorcycle, and it's been a god send. I want one for the Regal, but the ones I've found for the 2000 are too much $$$ for my wallet.
I've found some 1998 and 1999 Buick Regal Factory service manuals for a fraction of the price of the 2k manuals. I am assuming that there would be little to no difference between the 1998-2000 model years, so I should have no issues using a 98 or 99 service manual, correct?
Thanks for taking a look-
Chris
terrapin88
07-24-2012, 12:54 PM
Anyone? Bueller? Bueller? Bueller? :icon16:
I talked to a mechanic yesterday while getting an inspection sticker and he thinks there would be little or no difference between the 1998-2000 manuals, except maybe in the wiring harness.
Think I'm going to grab one of the 98 manual sets. I've found them for about 40 bucks online.
I talked to a mechanic yesterday while getting an inspection sticker and he thinks there would be little or no difference between the 1998-2000 manuals, except maybe in the wiring harness.
Think I'm going to grab one of the 98 manual sets. I've found them for about 40 bucks online.
shorod
07-24-2012, 01:04 PM
You could also subscribe to Alldatadiy.com, that site provides the factory service manual information for an annual fee. Also, your local public library may offer an online service manual service at no charge which may have the factory service manual information. Often it is a subset of the service manual though and may not have the full information for engine overhauls, etc. Often the wiring diagrams are pretty complete. Oddly, the Chilton online service offered by our local library is factory service manual information, not what you find in Chilton manuals.
-Rod
-Rod
terrapin88
07-24-2012, 01:24 PM
Thanks for the reply and the info Rod.
I hadn't even thought to check the library. I'm going to check my library and see what they have to offer.
I've considered an online manual, and while I think it would be a nice addition to my tool box, I'd prefer a paper manual because I can get it greasy, make notes in it and take it under the car with me. Also, if I sell the car, I can resell the manual. Every dollar counts today. :2cents:
Chris-
I hadn't even thought to check the library. I'm going to check my library and see what they have to offer.
I've considered an online manual, and while I think it would be a nice addition to my tool box, I'd prefer a paper manual because I can get it greasy, make notes in it and take it under the car with me. Also, if I sell the car, I can resell the manual. Every dollar counts today. :2cents:
Chris-
shorod
07-24-2012, 11:57 PM
Sure, but if your library has a service, you can always print the sections you need, get them greasy, make notes in them, and take the printouts under the car. The only cost would be printer paper and printer ink, so no need to try to recoup the cost if you sell the car. ;) Plus no one wants to pay good money for a greasy, abused hard copy service manual. :evillol:
-Rod
-Rod
terrapin88
07-25-2012, 12:11 AM
I hear you Rod, I'm just cheap and love convenience. ;)
I just scored a 3 book set 1998 Regal GM shop manual on Ebay for $17.95 shipped. :)
I'll come back and answer my original question once I get it.
I just scored a 3 book set 1998 Regal GM shop manual on Ebay for $17.95 shipped. :)
I'll come back and answer my original question once I get it.
HotZ28
07-25-2012, 01:26 AM
The 1998 complete shop manual, should be about about 98% accurate for use on an 2000 Regal. Some minor things may change, but major things don't.
shorod
07-25-2012, 07:42 AM
I just scored a 3 book set 1998 Regal GM shop manual on Ebay for $17.95 shipped. :)
I'll come back and answer my original question once I get it.
Not bad, congratulations on the find. And, yes, please do follow-up on your post once you get the original issue resolved.
-Rod
I'll come back and answer my original question once I get it.
Not bad, congratulations on the find. And, yes, please do follow-up on your post once you get the original issue resolved.
-Rod
terrapin88
07-25-2012, 11:41 AM
Thanks again for the replies guys.
I will do a follow up once I use the manual. I have the typical HVAC issues...drivers side hot/passenger cold with AC on, and I need to fix the parking brake. My car failed state inspection because the park brake's not working. Uhg. I don't really need the manual for those issues with all the posts online about the AC probs, and I can figure out the P brake, but I feel better having one if I do need it now or later down the road.
I will do a follow up once I use the manual. I have the typical HVAC issues...drivers side hot/passenger cold with AC on, and I need to fix the parking brake. My car failed state inspection because the park brake's not working. Uhg. I don't really need the manual for those issues with all the posts online about the AC probs, and I can figure out the P brake, but I feel better having one if I do need it now or later down the road.
terrapin88
08-05-2012, 10:52 PM
I got the 3 volume factory service manual a few days ago. I was using it today trying to diagnose the typical AC probs many seem to have.
The manuals are very comprehensive (almost too much for a shade tree mechanic), reasonably understandable and have some diagrams that are useful. Much much more in-depth than a Haynes or Chiltons obviously, but if you are comfortable using those manuals you should be fine with FSM.
The set I got came in near perfect condition. There are more smudge marks on the pages from me using it for a few hours than there were when it arrived. Not bad for a used FSM.
I'd buy it again, especially at the price I paid.
HTH
Chris-
The manuals are very comprehensive (almost too much for a shade tree mechanic), reasonably understandable and have some diagrams that are useful. Much much more in-depth than a Haynes or Chiltons obviously, but if you are comfortable using those manuals you should be fine with FSM.
The set I got came in near perfect condition. There are more smudge marks on the pages from me using it for a few hours than there were when it arrived. Not bad for a used FSM.
I'd buy it again, especially at the price I paid.
HTH
Chris-
HotZ28
08-06-2012, 01:40 AM
Good find on the manuals. Have you checked low/high side pressure on the A/C system. Could be low on refrigerant.
terrapin88
08-06-2012, 02:21 AM
I checked the low side and it was low. I have gauges for r22, 410 and 502 but not for 134a. I only had the cheap connector and gauge that I found at walmart for the low side so I haven't been able to check the high. The low side read about 38psi. I charged it up to about 52 psi when the ambient temp was 82-85.
I have the digital dual climate. My driver side blows HOT, while the passenger side blows cool and is about 25 degrees lower than ambient as checked with a digital thermometer.
I've tried disconnecting the positive on the battery a few times and I've tried disconnecting/connecting the HVAC fuse hoping I had a stuck or out of range actuator that would just be nice and reset. Neither worked. I've pulled enough dash out of the way to see the drivers actuator, but there's no way my hands are going to be able to get in there to remove it.
I'm not even positive that the actuator is the prob. My defrost blows fine. I'm not sure the problem isn't in the system itself. I need to get the proper adapters to be able to check the high side charge. I'd be interested to see if it's jacked up or not. I'm wondering if I have something stuck in the orifice.
I don't know. Too many variables that could be causing this and I don't have the money or time right now to deal with it. So for now, I yanked the black plastic center dash and used aluminum tape to block off the vents behind the dash and the floor. At least now I can use the AC or vent without hot air flowing all over me. The AC from the passenger vents still cools the car though it takes longer. It's obviously not the ideal solution, but I've only got maybe 2 more months of AC season. When it's time for heat I'll just pull the dash again and remove the tape from the vents.
I have the digital dual climate. My driver side blows HOT, while the passenger side blows cool and is about 25 degrees lower than ambient as checked with a digital thermometer.
I've tried disconnecting the positive on the battery a few times and I've tried disconnecting/connecting the HVAC fuse hoping I had a stuck or out of range actuator that would just be nice and reset. Neither worked. I've pulled enough dash out of the way to see the drivers actuator, but there's no way my hands are going to be able to get in there to remove it.
I'm not even positive that the actuator is the prob. My defrost blows fine. I'm not sure the problem isn't in the system itself. I need to get the proper adapters to be able to check the high side charge. I'd be interested to see if it's jacked up or not. I'm wondering if I have something stuck in the orifice.
I don't know. Too many variables that could be causing this and I don't have the money or time right now to deal with it. So for now, I yanked the black plastic center dash and used aluminum tape to block off the vents behind the dash and the floor. At least now I can use the AC or vent without hot air flowing all over me. The AC from the passenger vents still cools the car though it takes longer. It's obviously not the ideal solution, but I've only got maybe 2 more months of AC season. When it's time for heat I'll just pull the dash again and remove the tape from the vents.
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