BMR rear sway bar

i have a 94 caprice classic. originally car had a 4.3 v8 but a few years ago i swapped a 5.7 and a tranny into it. I just got a BMR rear sway bar (car had no rear sway bar) and im not seeing where this would bolt in. do i need BMR lower control arms as well? or what control arms would work with the BMR sway bar. I have seen a few different companies that make them like BMR, UTI, and SPOHN.

There were a couple different mounting hardware sets used in the last few years of Caprice production. An early car like yours would have gotten brackets bolted into the arms from the sides and the later slightly stronger style just used through bolts and spacers BUT all of that is unimportant because the stock arms are flimsy and you really should put in stronger arms if putting in an aftermarket swaybar. The BMR rear one is the monster 1.5" unit right? Hell that bar will break the BMR tubular arms because the way the swaybar mounting pad ends mid arm creates a stress point.

Get some UMI lowers. I have the BMR they are OK but the UMI are a better design for the same money.

Really even the serious handling guys find the solid 1.5" rear bar to be too stiff, have even seen pics of it lifting the inside rear tire on stocky tired cars in competition.. It can be useful as an antiroll for drag racing though.

i have a 94 caprice classic. originally car had a 4.3 v8 but a few years ago i swapped a 5.7 and a tranny into it. I just got a BMR rear sway bar (car had no rear sway bar) and im not seeing where this would bolt in. do i need BMR lower control arms as well? or what control arms would work with the BMR sway bar. I have seen a few different companies that make them like BMR, UTI, and SPOHN.

with what you have I would go with the rear bar I have with / like my 1996 impala has OEM . scrap yard you could find one . using those spacer bars . the lower arms are not very strong so It would not help getting a larger bar.

I removed this bar and blocks and removed rust, refinished , and re installed. vehicle on hywy handles much better after this as the rust was causing the bar to be ineffective.

there was a tsb on those rear bar bolts/blocks.

then I did the same to the front bar also replacing the bushings on the link ends and the bar frame. handles great after that work.

i have the BMR lowers and the BMR 1.5 bar. I do have 2 weeks to return the bar. I did notice it is huge and pretty heavy. Any suggestions on another rear sway bar that is a little smaller that will mount to the BMR lower control arms. I got the BMR rear lowers for 180 shipped and the BMR rear sway bar for 235 shipped.

Since you have the BMR lowers go ahead and use them, just get some high grade bolts from the hardware store some heavy washers and locknuts.

That bar is capable of breaking those arms but in reality it takes years of HARD use, and if you drive like a sane person will likely never have a problem. The breaking can occur at the front end of the swaybar mounting plate, the tube can crack.

You already have the stuff, might as well use it instead of spending money to get rid of it. New rear lower arms makes a HUGE difference in the feel of the car.

Thanks for all your help 96capricemgr. any idea what size bolts i should get. r they the same as the sway bar bolts or should i just pull one of the lower control arms off and match them up?

The swaybar bolts are I want to say 10mm by probably 75mm long maybe even a little longer, measure the thickness of the arm plus the bar, plus room for a heavy washer on bottom and the nut.

I just bought the swaybar hardware with the arms so I am making an educated guess on the 10mm thing. For the arm to chassis I just reused the stock stuff.

Since the arms are not in yet bring one to the hardware store. Buy a bolt that is high grade and as large as will cleanly pass through the swaybar mounting holes. Then like I said some heavy washers and locknuts. 2 bolts each side so 4 total.