1999 Regal GS No Start

160,000 km on it. It had been running great. Just stopped at a set of lights and it stalled. Turn it over, and it cranks fine, but would only run for a second or two and smell of gas. I had the local shop have a quick look at it. They said it's getting fuel and spark, but wasn't throwing any codes. They also said once it cooled down a bit, it would run longer. (about 30 seconds or so) I'm going to try to get it home tomorrow. Just for the record, I do have another 99 Regal GS sitting in the driveway I can use for parts. Just need to know a good place to start.

No codes? Spark on ALL cylinders? Double check fuel pressure...

Remove the vac line to the f/p regulator and check for fuel.....

Try starting with the MAF disconnected......

Don't have the car home yet. I'll check fuel pressure when I get it home. Is the MAF the unit between the air canister and the intake? (looks like a honey comb grid on the inside of it) I think I've heard that if it's buggered, it will run with it disconnected. Correct assumption? Thanks.

The MAF is on top of the throttle body between the air cleaner and the throttle body as you stated. Just look for the black flat object with the weather pack connector. If you unplug the MAF the car will run.

I had this problem with a 2000 Regal GS and it was the MAF sensor. The car would intermittently die and it got progressively worse.

Just an update. I went to the shop where I left the car, they didn't charge me anything to look at it. (surprised) Their comment was it wasn't worth putting any more money into the car. They said the brake lines are rotted, needs a tie rod end, and a FLCA replaced.

Anyways, got the keys, started the car, and it would run, but didn't want to idle. I drove it home. By the time I got home, it was running as good as new. I shut it down, let it sit for a few minutes, and started it up again. As soon as it wanted to idle, it would stall. I unplugged the MAF, and it would run once again. I took the sensor off my parts car, and it all seems good now. (knock on wood) I've got a friend that's got a hoist, so I'm going to talk to him about getting the car up on it and check out the other issues mentioned. The body in generally in good shape, and it's only got 160,000 km, so IMO, that seems low. Tie rod end is an easy job to do. I've done the FLCA on my wife's Mazda MPV. Are the FLCA's easy to do on the Regals?

Thanks again for all the help. This is one of the better sections for getting help on this forum. I've posted in other sections, and all you hear is crickets. Glad I've got this Regal, and all these smart Buick owners / mechanics.

The LCA issue is often the bushings and ball joint, not the arm itself. It's a common wear item.

Most importantly, attend to those brake lines first. Steel lines are relatively cheap, and you can get an inexpensive tube bender to mimic the routing of the original steel lines. A good rust penetrating oil like B'Laster! PB or Kroil will be very helpful. Start applying penetrating oil to the existing fittings now, and keep soaking them every few days so that you have some chance of breaking the fittings loose without destroying everything when the lines are replaced.

A little heating at the fittings followed by another application of penetrating oil can help with the very stubborn connections. Be aware of the items around the lines before you hop in there with a torch, however.

The LCA issue is often the bushings and ball joint, not the arm itself. It's a common wear item.

Most importantly, attend to those brake lines first. Steel lines are relatively cheap, and you can get an inexpensive tube bender to mimic the routing of the original steel lines. A good rust penetrating oil like B'Laster! PB or Kroil will be very helpful. Start applying penetrating oil to the existing fittings now, and keep soaking them every few days so that you have some chance of breaking the fittings loose without destroying everything when the lines are replaced.

A little heating at the fittings followed by another application of penetrating oil can help with the very stubborn connections. Be aware of the items around the lines before you hop in there with a torch, however.

I've actually got a flaring kit and tubing. Just need to get it done. As for the FLCA, is it more common just to replace the bushings? I thought with those cars that you would just replace the entire assembly, as the bushings and ball joints are typically unserviceable. (correct me if I'm wrong)