Driver side power window not working
dcountiss
07-11-2012, 12:25 AM
I have a 2000 Tahoe ("New Body Style") that the driver side window just quit working the other day. No sounds coming from the window, it doesn't even try to go up and down. All of the other windows can be controlled from the master switch, just not the driver's window. If I apply 12 volts to the motor, it goes up and down. I checked for voltage at the connector to the motor, and nothing happens when I opersate the switch. Thought the switch might be bad, so I replaced it with a new master switch. Now I have a nice lighted switch, but no response from the window. Any idea how to troubleshoot the door wire harness?
j cAT
07-11-2012, 08:25 AM
I have a 2000 Tahoe ("New Body Style") that the driver side window just quit working the other day. No sounds coming from the window, it doesn't even try to go up and down. All of the other windows can be controlled from the master switch, just not the driver's window. If I apply 12 volts to the motor, it goes up and down. I checked for voltage at the connector to the motor, and nothing happens when I opersate the switch. Thought the switch might be bad, so I replaced it with a new master switch. Now I have a nice lighted switch, but no response from the window. Any idea how to troubleshoot the door wire harness?
since the driver door switch has 12 volts to it and the driver door window is the only one not working with a new switch I would check that the wire from the master switch to the window motor is open.could be at the connector ends. was this door ever in the body shop ?
since the driver door switch has 12 volts to it and the driver door window is the only one not working with a new switch I would check that the wire from the master switch to the window motor is open.could be at the connector ends. was this door ever in the body shop ?
dcountiss
07-11-2012, 09:00 AM
I checked from the switch to the motor, no open wires, no shorts that I can find.
j cAT
07-11-2012, 02:29 PM
I checked from the switch to the motor, no open wires, no shorts that I can find.
look for the 12volts at the switch pin when you operate the switch.
did you also check the return ground wire ?
look for the 12volts at the switch pin when you operate the switch.
did you also check the return ground wire ?
dcountiss
07-11-2012, 03:38 PM
look for the 12volts at the switch pin when you operate the switch.
did you also check the return ground wire ?
What color are these wires?
did you also check the return ground wire ?
What color are these wires?
j cAT
07-11-2012, 05:21 PM
What color are these wires?
the wires at the driver door window motor have color correct ???? follow those wires back to the driver door window control switch .. make sure both are good and use your meter to check.measure at swith that you get 12 volts and a ground return so that you are sure those wires are good.
the wires at the driver door window motor have color correct ???? follow those wires back to the driver door window control switch .. make sure both are good and use your meter to check.measure at swith that you get 12 volts and a ground return so that you are sure those wires are good.
dcountiss
07-11-2012, 11:48 PM
the wires at the driver door window motor have color correct ???? follow those wires back to the driver door window control switch .. make sure both are good and use your meter to check.measure at swith that you get 12 volts and a ground return so that you are sure those wires are good.
I probably won't be able to get back into it until this weekend, but I will check the wiring and let you know what I find.
I probably won't be able to get back into it until this weekend, but I will check the wiring and let you know what I find.
dcountiss
07-14-2012, 07:06 PM
I probably won't be able to get back into it until this weekend, but I will check the wiring and let you know what I find.
OK, so I spent the afternoon with the door panel off. Can't find 12 volts coming from the switch, but everything except the driver's window works fine. First, I though it was the switch, so I replaced it. Didn't fix it, but I had forgetten what the lighted switch looked like since it had been so long since the light worked.
I couldn't find any open wires, traced everything back to the block on the fuse panel. I did verify that the motor was OK, took it out and ran it from the passenger door switch without any problem. Did the same with the passenger motor on the driver side, did not work, just like the original driver side motor.
Getting a little frustrated.at this point, but not ready to give up and take it to a dealer.
OK, so I spent the afternoon with the door panel off. Can't find 12 volts coming from the switch, but everything except the driver's window works fine. First, I though it was the switch, so I replaced it. Didn't fix it, but I had forgetten what the lighted switch looked like since it had been so long since the light worked.
I couldn't find any open wires, traced everything back to the block on the fuse panel. I did verify that the motor was OK, took it out and ran it from the passenger door switch without any problem. Did the same with the passenger motor on the driver side, did not work, just like the original driver side motor.
Getting a little frustrated.at this point, but not ready to give up and take it to a dealer.
j cAT
07-14-2012, 08:58 PM
OK, so I spent the afternoon with the door panel off. Can't find 12 volts coming from the switch, but everything except the driver's window works fine. First, I though it was the switch, so I replaced it. Didn't fix it, but I had forgetten what the lighted switch looked like since it had been so long since the light worked.
I couldn't find any open wires, traced everything back to the block on the fuse panel. I did verify that the motor was OK, took it out and ran it from the passenger door switch without any problem. Did the same with the passenger motor on the driver side, did not work, just like the original driver side motor.
Getting a little frustrated.at this point, but not ready to give up and take it to a dealer.
THE SWITCH HAS 12 VOLTS TO IT. the other windows work from this switch.
If the 12 volts is not at the switch wire going to the door window motor that does not work then the switch is bad or the connector at the door switch going to the door window motor is open.
when you push on the door window switch measure for 12 volts with your meter using a good ground .measure both sides of the motor of this door window to see if you have 12 volts on both wires. also measure at the switch where the wires go to this window motor .
I couldn't find any open wires, traced everything back to the block on the fuse panel. I did verify that the motor was OK, took it out and ran it from the passenger door switch without any problem. Did the same with the passenger motor on the driver side, did not work, just like the original driver side motor.
Getting a little frustrated.at this point, but not ready to give up and take it to a dealer.
THE SWITCH HAS 12 VOLTS TO IT. the other windows work from this switch.
If the 12 volts is not at the switch wire going to the door window motor that does not work then the switch is bad or the connector at the door switch going to the door window motor is open.
when you push on the door window switch measure for 12 volts with your meter using a good ground .measure both sides of the motor of this door window to see if you have 12 volts on both wires. also measure at the switch where the wires go to this window motor .
dcountiss
07-18-2012, 06:59 PM
THE SWITCH HAS 12 VOLTS TO IT. the other windows work from this switch.
If the 12 volts is not at the switch wire going to the door window motor that does not work then the switch is bad or the connector at the door switch going to the door window motor is open.
when you push on the door window switch measure for 12 volts with your meter using a good ground .measure both sides of the motor of this door window to see if you have 12 volts on both wires. also measure at the switch where the wires go to this window motor .
When I check one of the orange wires, I do have 12 volts to the switch. The other orange wire seems to go to the mirror switch, which by the way is the only other thing that does not work all of the time. The main ground to the switch also appears to be good. I have read that the driver side window is operated differently from the other windows, could the inoperative mirror switch be affecting the driver's window?
If the 12 volts is not at the switch wire going to the door window motor that does not work then the switch is bad or the connector at the door switch going to the door window motor is open.
when you push on the door window switch measure for 12 volts with your meter using a good ground .measure both sides of the motor of this door window to see if you have 12 volts on both wires. also measure at the switch where the wires go to this window motor .
When I check one of the orange wires, I do have 12 volts to the switch. The other orange wire seems to go to the mirror switch, which by the way is the only other thing that does not work all of the time. The main ground to the switch also appears to be good. I have read that the driver side window is operated differently from the other windows, could the inoperative mirror switch be affecting the driver's window?
j cAT
07-18-2012, 09:49 PM
the mirror does not work because the control pad needs cleaning. this is just like a tv remote control. take it apart and very carefully clean those pad contacts with some alcohol and a Q tip.
on the door window with 12 volts at the door master switch the driver door window motor not working and your not able to figure it out is weird . not much there to get that complicated.
using a volt / ohm meter this should be a quick fix.
on the door window with 12 volts at the door master switch the driver door window motor not working and your not able to figure it out is weird . not much there to get that complicated.
using a volt / ohm meter this should be a quick fix.
dcountiss
07-18-2012, 11:03 PM
the mirror does not work because the control pad needs cleaning. this is just like a tv remote control. take it apart and very carefully clean those pad contacts with some alcohol and a Q tip.
on the door window with 12 volts at the door master switch the driver door window motor not working and your not able to figure it out is weird . not much there to get that complicated.
using a volt / ohm meter this should be a quick fix.
Next time I get a chance, I will clean the mirror switch as you suggest. Then, I am thinking about taking the entire door harness out and just going point to point one wire at a time with the meter.
on the door window with 12 volts at the door master switch the driver door window motor not working and your not able to figure it out is weird . not much there to get that complicated.
using a volt / ohm meter this should be a quick fix.
Next time I get a chance, I will clean the mirror switch as you suggest. Then, I am thinking about taking the entire door harness out and just going point to point one wire at a time with the meter.
j cAT
07-19-2012, 07:02 AM
Next time I get a chance, I will clean the mirror switch as you suggest. Then, I am thinking about taking the entire door harness out and just going point to point one wire at a time with the meter.
sounds good. when probing the wires use a sewing needle to stab the wire insulation . then use some liquid tape on the pin hole when done to seal.
post back what you found.
sounds good. when probing the wires use a sewing needle to stab the wire insulation . then use some liquid tape on the pin hole when done to seal.
post back what you found.
dcountiss
07-19-2012, 08:44 PM
sounds good. when probing the wires use a sewing needle to stab the wire insulation . then use some liquid tape on the pin hole when done to seal.
post back what you found.
OK, so here it is now - I found the issue. The dark green wire (RAP) to the switch was cut at the door / a-pillar junction. Connecting a jumper here allowed the window to function normally. Now, do I repair this wire, or just buy a new door harness? At 340K miles, that may just be the first of many wires in that door harness that are ready to give up.
post back what you found.
OK, so here it is now - I found the issue. The dark green wire (RAP) to the switch was cut at the door / a-pillar junction. Connecting a jumper here allowed the window to function normally. Now, do I repair this wire, or just buy a new door harness? At 340K miles, that may just be the first of many wires in that door harness that are ready to give up.
j cAT
07-20-2012, 08:38 AM
OK, so here it is now - I found the issue. The dark green wire (RAP) to the switch was cut at the door / a-pillar junction. Connecting a jumper here allowed the window to function normally. Now, do I repair this wire, or just buy a new door harness? At 340K miles, that may just be the first of many wires in that door harness that are ready to give up.
repair this with some solder and seal the joint with heat shrink . radio shack has this .
from time to time this will occur. replacing a wire harness is not what would be done with repair issues like this.
good luck with your repair . good job.
repair this with some solder and seal the joint with heat shrink . radio shack has this .
from time to time this will occur. replacing a wire harness is not what would be done with repair issues like this.
good luck with your repair . good job.
rons52
01-29-2014, 10:46 AM
Is the green wire supposed to be hot at switch when ignition key is on.
j cAT
01-29-2014, 04:50 PM
Is the green wire supposed to be hot at switch when ignition key is on.
with the key on power should be at the control switch.
the motors on these fail often. see if you have 12 volts across the motor with the window switch on
with the key on power should be at the control switch.
the motors on these fail often. see if you have 12 volts across the motor with the window switch on
rons52
01-29-2014, 05:19 PM
with the key on power should be at the control switch.
the motors on these fail often. see if you have 12 volts across the motor with the window switch on
I know the motor is good. I just need to find out if green wire is always hot or just when key is on. Or if it is hot at all. Thanks for your time.
the motors on these fail often. see if you have 12 volts across the motor with the window switch on
I know the motor is good. I just need to find out if green wire is always hot or just when key is on. Or if it is hot at all. Thanks for your time.
j cAT
01-29-2014, 05:28 PM
I know the motor is good. I just need to find out if green wire is always hot or just when key is on. Or if it is hot at all. Thanks for your time.
explain what you know and why ? is there power at the driver side master control switch ?
do the other windows work with this switch ? what is the problem exactly ?
being a newbie to these forums the proper method is to make your own posting with your issues and your complete vehicle details including testing and results completed if any.
explain what you know and why ? is there power at the driver side master control switch ?
do the other windows work with this switch ? what is the problem exactly ?
being a newbie to these forums the proper method is to make your own posting with your issues and your complete vehicle details including testing and results completed if any.
CSavage
08-16-2017, 09:00 PM
I had the same issue on a 2002 Yukon XL.
Traced back the dark green wire to the fuse box, spliced in a new wire at the fuse box and ran it to the switch, problem solved.
Thanks for the post.
Traced back the dark green wire to the fuse box, spliced in a new wire at the fuse box and ran it to the switch, problem solved.
Thanks for the post.
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