Cant Find Problem, Desperately Need Help!

2004 Taurus SEL. I can't drive the car because I can't pass my e-check. Here is a brief history of what happened. Car was running incredibly well. In fact it is one of the best running cars that I've ever owned. Bought a 2010 Milan and was going to sell the Taurus myself because the dealer wouldn't give me anything fair for it.

Then My mother started showing signs of Alzheimer's disease so instead of trying to sell the Taurus I parked it and focused most of my time taking care of my mother. Then my father got Pneumonia and passed away a few months later. I knew I wouldn't be able to devote any time cleaning up the Taurus to sell it so I disconnected the battery and it sat.

My mother passed away a couple of months ago and so now I'm trying to pick up and get back on my feet. The Taurus had been sitting for a couple of years but after charging up the battery it started right up. It was not idling smoothly but I figured it was a case of bad gas, so I filled the tank with new gas and put in a can of Sea Foam motor treatment which had always worked good before. I also pulled a few plugs and manually cleaned them and I cleaned the MAF sensor. Shortly there after the car started to run good again, so I figured it was time to get plates and drive it regularly.

I went up to get it e-checked and to my surprise it didn’t pass. It came back with the code P0171 and P0174 “System too lean”. The guy at the parts store said it was probably the oxygen sensors, so I replaced the one by the radiator. Tested again, same problem. So I tried to replace the one by the cat. converter but it was rusted to the pipe. I tried everything I could think of to remove it, but it wouldn’t budge, so I drilled a new hole next to it in the exhaust and installed a new threading and new oxygen sensor. Retested. Same code (P0171 and P0174).

By now I figured I was missing something and did more research. I found a link that said that the code sometimes comes up when the fuel filter needs replacing. This made sense since it had bad gas and the codes were the same for both sides of the engine. So I replaced the gas filter. Retested. Same codes :mad:

Guys, I’m at my wits end and getting desperate. How can I fix this?

I have seen those codes when there was a intake manifold leak, but that was after an engine rebuild that went sour. Since you haven't done any repairs like that (?), look for other intake or vacuum leaks: vacuum lines that are loose, fallen off, cracked, or have holes. Clues - is it idling high? is there a hesitation when you accelerate? Can you hear a sucking sound? One trick is to spray starting fluid at places that you think may be leaking - this will affect the idle speed. Please note: for the record, I question the safety of doing this.

vacuum lines that are loose, fallen off, cracked, or have holes.
THANKS for trying to help ShadeTreeJack. Appreciate it :) Visibly all the vacuum lines look good.

Clues - is it idling high?
No.

is there a hesitation when you accelerate?
When there was bad gas maybe, but only slightly. Now I really don't notice a hesitation. Actually the engine seems to run great...

Can you hear a sucking sound?No.

One trick is to spray starting fluid at places that you think may be leaking - this will affect the idle speed.
Does it have to be starting fluid, or will spraying water work? I'm guessing no....

Could an exhaust leak (hole in exhaust) cause this code?

Do a smoke test to pinpoint any unmetered air leaks on the PCV, EGR, and air intake systems.

Do a smoke test

Not sure what that is. Any more information?

Yes, an exhaust leak could cause the lean codes, but you would probably need to have a leak in both exhaust manifolds to get both a P0171 and P0174.

I don't recall which engine is in the SEL but there have been others who had these codes due to PCV tubes leaking. There is a sticky on the top of the forum main page regarding these codes. You are most likely looking for vacuum leak of some sort. Intake manifold gaskets can fail on their own, not just due to a botched repair. Also if the air intake tube between the MAF sensor and the throttle body is loose or has cracks (carefully check the flex portion) it can cause these codes as well.

-Rod

See Similar Thread www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1079178 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1079178)

.

Spraying water? Hmm.. I guess a mist would not hurt given the number of after market gadgets that I have seen over the years, but i am not sure how to use that for diagnosis here. the point of the starting fluid is that is is flammable and approved for engines. the flammable part causes he idle to change. in general the idle speed goes up. it may go down for a couple seconds as it may get sort of flooded, or too rich.. again, although this is a common thing to try, be careful with flammable stuff on a hot engine. spray lightly! AVOID the exhaust!


water sprayed at a leak would probably make the idle go down or even stall the engine. a fine fine mist only!

I don't recall which engine is in the SEL but there have been others who had these codes due to PCV tubes leaking.

Its got a 3.0L DOHC Duratec. I'm pretty sure you told me a couple of years ago that it doesn't have a PCV.

if the air intake tube between the MAF sensor and the throttle body is loose or has cracks (carefully check the flex portion)

Visual inspection looks good.

If I somehow fix the leak and don't known it, how long before the engine light will reset. (please note; because of e-check I can't buy plates and the car is only running in the driveway). I do have this (http://www.ot-2.com/) tester/scanner if that helps.

See Similar Thread www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1079178 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1079178)


Thanks! I'm trying to find a car parts store that rents one but so far no luck.

1) Block the air intake with plastic wrap & blow your most favorite smoke through the brake booster hose.
2) Block the brake booster hose in between puffs, and watch for smoke signals around the PCV, EGR, and Air intake systems.

Need to do a Youtube DIY ''Auto Red Neck smoke test''

Does the catalytic converter have vacuum lines?

I ask because when I take my car in to be e-checked they keep telling me that their computer can't "read / log in / check" my catalytic converter.

When I hooked up my tester it seems to mention this also (see screenshot below). Just wondering if this could be tied into my problem.

http://www.angelars.com/img/catconv.jpg

No - There's no vacuum to the cats, just H20 sensors for feed back signals.

If there's no Catalyst a DTC P0420 is thrown for bank1, and DTC P0430 is for bank2.

If the CEL was on for a while, it could lead up to a bad catalytic converter.

If there's no Catalyst a DTC P0420 is thrown for bank1, and DTC P0430 is for bank2.
Thanks Daniel.

So if I can't read my catalyst (and those codes, PO420, PO430) aren't showing up, does anyone know what else would prevent e-check and my tester from "seeing" the catalyst?

I pulled the EGR and saw where some carbon was leaking past the gasket. Could this be considered as a "leak" and have caused the problem?

Also, how to I force the codes to show up on the tester? The guy at the Ford dealership said to drive the car for two weeks, but I have no plates and can't do that. Isn't there a procedure or way to see if my repairs have worked and cleared the codes for good?

Anyone? Please

My 99 Taurus w/ 3.0 dohc has a pcv valve. It sits under the upper intake manifold on the driver side sort of. Hard to see, I replaced the valve and associated parts, bought from dealer. I pulled the upper to get to back plugs figured I would replace the pcv parts. Rubber hose had visible cracks in it, don't think they were an issue but replaced with new since apart already.

My 99 Taurus w/ 3.0 dohc has a pcv valve. It sits under the upper intake manifold on the driver side sort of.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=4436399#post4436399

Can anyone please tell me if the egr might have been the "leak"?

How do we force the car to reveal codes? Thanks

That pic of your tester shows that the monitor for the catalyst has not run..Does this tester have the green, yellow, and red lights? Car will fail if all associated monitors for your vehicle have not run before dmv test. Monitors are basically programs built into the pcm to check each emission control part, That is why you can't turn off the check light and go get it tested. When you do that it resets all monitors back to untested, on my unit the monitors for my car will flash on and off if not tested. I think maybe there might be around 12 or so different monitors, not all on every vehicle. Your tester will show you which you have. Each monitor has it's own specific criteria in order to get it to run it's test. That's why the dealer is telling you to drive around. Each has a specific way to get it to run, such as maybe accel up to 30 mph, hold it there for 30 secs and brake down to 10 mph within 10 secs, or some such. I just made that up, but that's sort of how it is. Same with testing the operation of your trans, you can drive a certain way to look for certain results. Back to monitors, usually just an extended drive around the city will eventually get them all to run. If you don't have plates, that's another story. Green light indicates all is good, yellow means either a pending code or one or more monitors have not completed their test, red indicates a failure of a part to stay within specs. Never heard of forcing codes. Do a search for your engine and pcv valve, I believe you may be able to access it by removing a couple of pieces, not 100% on that. On my 99, pcv doesn't actually sit in the motor, it is in a metal-rubber tube combo which is attached to the intake. Oh yeah, do not replace parts, such as o2 sensors unless you are being directed to do so by codes. These systems are pretty damn good at what they do and will point you to the specific o2 sensor that is an issue. In my own experience, whenever there was an o2 code for whichever sensor, replaceing the sensor fixed it. There could always be a wiring or other issue, but mine was always the o2 unit. Good luck..

That pic of your tester shows that the monitor for the catalyst has not run..Does this tester have the green, yellow, and red lights?
I have this (http://www.ot-2.com/) tester/scanner if it helps. Thanks for explaining everything better. Seems there is no real way to check with equipment if the car is fixed or not. I may have to put my other cars plates on the car and drive it. I called the license plate pace and they had no idea on how to get out of my situation either. I think its pretty rediculous to put a limit on how many temp tags you can get. Seems I've found a crack not found before.