A/C compressor clutch

I recently replaced the compressor on my 1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE. Was told that it was good. Now I can not get it to kick on no matter what I do. I tried the jumping of the relay by crossing 30 and 87 in the fuse and relay panel under the hood. Well when I do that the A/C clutch(not relay) fuse blows that is in the same box. I have not done anything else to it except that. I just wanted to be certain that the clutch would kick in and run. I have not added any oil or tried to do any R134 yet. I seem to think if I can not get the clutch to kick on then there is no way to make it take freon, Am I correct? My astro van was simple just cross the switch and no problem.
I even tried the low pressure switch and no luck. I guess it was the low pressure switch it had a round wire plug on it with 3 wires going to it and the actual switch had 3 prongs in it. It was near the alternator on a metal line that runs to the drier. Please reply soon with your thoughts or what to do.

Why would you try to spin the compressor with no oil or freon in it???

Reassurance that at least I know it will work when I go to do the rest! Now any clue on the fuse blowing that I described?

Was told that it was good. Probably isn't. If you can put 12volts directly to the clutch(engine off, key off) and nothing happens, it's obviously bad. Sounds like bad field coil. Just a guess.

I did not put 12 volts directly to it. Unless that is what happens when you cross the relay. But then the clutch fuse blows in the same box. I am reluctant to put 12 volts directly to the compressor. That is how I messed the first one up. I guess I could do it again and remove it as soon as the clutch kicks in. That is if it does kick in. Thanks for your help. What is a field coil?

Well, we all know fuses blowing is not normal and not good. There must be a short or grounded point somewhere in that circuit. I'm not sure what the voltage needed at the compressor switch is, but I thought it was 12V. The relay just acts as a slow buffer to keep the voltage from surging into that switch. But you should at least get the "click" from the clutch activating if the circuit doesn't shut down.

Do you have a good schematic?

I didn't say to get the compressor running. I said just to see if the clutch engages(clicks) with compressor NOT running.

Try jumping the relay with the clutch disconnected. If the fuse still blows, it's a wiring problem, or you're jumping the wrong terminals.

Ok I will go out and try that. I am jumping prong 87 and 30. That is what I found on Google to do. Is that correct?

Well the fuse in question does not pop when the compressor is not connected. It seems to be dead. I ran 12v straight to it and touched each prong in the connector on the compressor and nothing at all happens. When I do that on the old one the clutch kicks in but does not spin. So I guess it is dead.

Well the fuse in question does not pop when the compressor is not connected. It seems to be dead. I ran 12v straight to it and touched each prong in the connector on the compressor and nothing at all happens. When I do that on the old one the clutch kicks in but does not spin. So I guess it is dead.

If your engine is not running, all the clutch will do is click not spin. BTW how did you determine your old one was bad?

Well when the old one went bad, I ran 12v to it to see if would spin and it did and then I suppose I left the 12v on it to long and it started smoking near the clutch and now all it will do is the clutch like clicks in but will not spin when I put 12v to it. And now the one that I replaced it with will not do anything with 12v to it. I guess that is what I get for going to the junk yard and trusting someone.

If you feel like a road trip, pullapart.com. Got one in knoxville. They are worth the trip. You can not call them. Go up their website and you can search their inventory. It will give what they have and when it was placed on the lot. Prices are great. You're not paying for a part based on what it came off of. A compressor is priced the same whether it came from a mercedes or ford. You can get a warranty with it. You have to bring your own tools and remove the part yourself.

It's possible the pump has an internal switch that will not allow the clutch to engage at all if there is no oil in it. Protective stuff.

Yeah a guy at work told me about pullapart, That is about 80 miles from me. Great deals on parts if they are there when you get there. Just might head that way Saturday.




If you feel like a road trip, pullapart.com. Got one in knoxville. They are worth the trip. You can not call them. Go up their website and you can search their inventory. It will give what they have and when it was placed on the lot. Prices are great. You're not paying for a part based on what it came off of. A compressor is priced the same whether it came from a mercedes or ford. You can get a warranty with it. You have to bring your own tools and remove the part yourself.

Something's bothering me about this. If the clutch was blowing fuses, it is shorted. If you applied 12v and ground to it on the correct terminals, it should have sparked and started to melt your jumper wires (like holding the two jumper wires together). Since there is a zener diode across the clutch, polarity does matter.

It does spark when I touch it with 12v and ground. That is if you are talking about the compressor. All I know is my old one when I was trying to find the problem and decided to try and test the compressor by putting 12v to the connector on the compressor the clutch would kick in and spin. But it will not do that on the replacement compressor. And I think it should no matter if it is bone dry of everything, Right?



Something's bothering me about this. If the clutch was blowing fuses, it is shorted. If you applied 12v and ground to it on the correct terminals, it should have sparked and started to melt your jumper wires (like holding the two jumper wires together). Since there is a zener diode across the clutch, polarity does matter.

Right.