97 leSabre tcc problem

i think i know what the problem is, the question i have is do i need to remove the transmission to replace the valve body? thanks

I don't know which vb you mean the main one is in the pan, the aux vb where the tcc solenoid is is in the side cover, the trans must be dropped partially down to get the cover off.

I don't know which vb you mean the main one is in the pan, the aux vb where the tcc solenoid is is in the side cover, the trans must be dropped partially down to get the cover off.

thanks, the one in the side cover, that is the one that causes the problem with the tcc, right? if it is, then that is the one i am asking about.

Max, there is only one valve body in a 4T65-E, like you said, behind the side cover......have to remove the CV axle on the driver's side, pop the ball joint, and partially drop and support the cradle on the driver's side, to have room to remove the side cover.....while you are in there, you basically replace everything......what I mean is, If you are replacing the TCC solenoid/valve body, you definitely replace the pressure control solenoid too......flip a coin on other solenoids and sensors......

Before you tear into it, are you sure you have to do the work?

Have you tried a simple pan drop, fluid and filter change? You can add a tube of Dr. Tranny Instant shudder fix. I've herad this is good stuff and solves many problems.

Before you tear into it, are you sure you have to do the work?

Have you tried a simple pan drop, fluid and filter change? You can add a tube of Dr. Tranny Instant shudder fix. I've herad this is good stuff and solves many problems.

yep, had a trans shop check it out, but i can do the work. i was a auto tech for 10 years, but got out 6 yrs ago, i didn't do a lot of work with transmissions so i had to have it diagnosed for me and i can do the work. i just wanted to know if i could do it without removing the trans, of course the tech who diagnosed it said i had to remove it, but i know better than that, he just wanted the sale, and i don't blame him. why pay for that when i can do it too.

Max, there is only one valve body in a 4T65-E, like you said, behind the side cover......have to remove the CV axle on the driver's side, pop the ball joint, and partially drop and support the cradle on the driver's side, to have room to remove the side cover.....while you are in there, you basically replace everything......what I mean is, If you are replacing the TCC solenoid/valve body, you definitely replace the pressure control solenoid too......flip a coin on other solenoids and sensors......

i am thinking the bores are worn on the valve body, should i have it rebuilt or just install a reman or new one? maybe pull the valve body and have it checked out?

Tell us what your symptoms are. My wife's has had a tcc related symptom when I first got the car, but since the pan drop, it's been pretty good, even without the Dr. Tranny stuff. I figure one day I may have to tear into the side pan, but it may also last the life of the car anyway if I keep up with fluid changes.

I have seen pictures of the side pan removed with the engine/tranny in place, so I know it's possible.

I agree.....would help to know the symptoms, and to know if any codes were set.....you have to make a decision on how far you want to go......valve body, solenoids, spacer plate, screen filters, etc.

Tell us what your symptoms are. My wife's has had a tcc related symptom when I first got the car, but since the pan drop, it's been pretty good, even without the Dr. Tranny stuff. I figure one day I may have to tear into the side pan, but it may also last the life of the car anyway if I keep up with fluid changes.

I have seen pictures of the side pan removed with the engine/tranny in place, so I know it's possible.

the shudder at highway speeds, code p1870, then had the converter replaced and like a fool didn't have the valve body checked out:mad:, so that is why i was wondering about the valve body and trans removal. After the converter replacement, I was driving and noticed that slip speeds were getting in the hi 200's and even into the 300's but while going up a long hill, so not sure if that was by design or not, and the trans temp rose up to 250°f. the slip seemed to be worse as the temp went up. i have ordered a B&M plate style cooler and when it gets here will install it. valve body work is the last resort. i also ordered 7 qts of B&M synthetic trick shift fluid, i have that in my 79 gmc and shifts great. the car has 190,xxx on it, but there should be more left in it. the code hasn't come back yet so maybe i am just jumping the gun here but idk.

A few things here, I feel you are experiencing the TCC bore wear issues... Very common for the 4T60E... 1997 was the last year for the 4T60E in the H body cars and was attached to the L36..

I like the idea of you adding the cooler, these transmissions do get a bit on the hot side..I see you are going to try a different fluid, let us know if that helps or not.. I was going to recommend Valvoline Max Life..

Also these cars use a Vac Modulator to control line pressure, if the modulator is tired or bad the line pressure can be a bit low... I would recommend a new Adjustable Trans Modulator, any parts store should have them for around $20 or so... see how it shifts, if its super soft, use a tiny flat head screwdriver and turn it up 1/2 to 1 turn and see how it shifts.... You want a quick crisp shift, no bangs or rough shifts... If the shift becomes rough then back it down half a turn and test again.. This may aid in dropping the TCC slip to a more acceptable number..




I recommend all of the above before going into the valve body...

But if you decide to go there, in my opinion its almost easier to remove the trans... Its no fun at all trying to deal with that with the trans still in the car...

sorry it took so long to reply, but here is what i did, i installed the cooler, the fluid, LUBEGUARD Platinum Universal ATF Protectant and adjustable vac modulator. i drove the car, while monitoring the trans temp and other values through an app i have on my android phone called "Torque", great app by the way, i highly recommend it, and found that the temps would rarely go above 170° even on 90°+ days and this summer there were plenty of those, lol. and the converter slip numbers stayed low too, very much improved. but i still have the shudder and what if found, i have an intermittent miss on the # 4 cylinder :O. remember that app for my phone i mentioned, best $5 i have ever spent. so it wasn't the trans doing the shuddering, it was the miss, which i haven't solved yet, i think it might be an injector, and that is another thing i will need to check out, glad it isn't in the trans. thanks to all of your suggestions and help.

This is a common misdiagnosis, the shudder has fooled a lot of people that is why I always recommend a full scan to eliminate guess work. This misfire under load when the tcc is applied can be many things bad plug, wire, coil, dirty injector, now the real fun satrts.