Eclipse GS Intermittient Stalls when warm

Hey thanks for reading!
I have a 98 Gs with a t-3 turbo and built with the goodies forged ported and so on. The issue is when I start the car it idles fine until its warm and it will start to stall and almost die then the car revs itself up to save it from dying then it will smooth out for about a minute or two and repeat. I did do an Egr delete and not sure if that would cause this? I probed around with the DMM and read the ohms on a few things here is what I have so far.
The IAC valve. pins 1 and 4 read 51.7 ohms
pins 2 and 3 read 52.7 ohms
Any other pin combo read OL ( out of limits )
ECT sensor 12.01 K ohms
Map sensor Pins 2 and 3 15.20 K ohms
Pins 1 and 3 16.15 K ohms
Pins 1 and 2 .946 K ohms
Ign Coil Pins 1 and 2 .7 ohms
Pins 2 and 3 .6 ohms
Pins 1 and 3 1.1 ohms
Not sure where to go from here. The MAP sensor does have a missing link sandwiched between it and the intake mani, maybe that is bad? Not sure how to check that one. The car also stalls right after I push in the clutch when coming to a stop light and sometimes when turning. The rack and pinion is bad and I'm right in the middle of putting in a new one which would explain the stall when turning if it was seizing up but the stalling while idling is really frustrating especially in the early morning and it sounds like I'm revving the engine up but the car is doing it on its own to save it self from dying. I also did many boost leak tests and its air tight.
Thanks for any comment!!!:banghead:

Normally with the stall at stops, a fuel filter or fuel issue. But with the revving to 'catch' itself, possibly a vacuum leak or sensor malfunction or clogged ports as with the IAC in that area. Unplug MAP sensor and run car, see if there is improvement. One deteriorated/unhooked/plugged vacuum hose will cause the loping in idle.

The IAC is new and I did a resistance test on it compared to a new one at O'Reillys and the new one was 49.4 ohms on pins 2 and 3 and 49.4 ohms on pin 1 and 4 so I think there mine was barley over fifty they are close enough that mine is probably good still. Im just wondering if maybe the porting would cause this? It has 1mm oversized intake and exhaust valves and the runners in the head are port matched to the valves. I personally would not think the computer would not be able to adjust to this increase in air flow. it does have a 60mm TB as well. I read on Alldata under the technical service bulletin that the eclipse came out with a faulty computer that would cause erratic idle and needed to be swapped with a different one.
Old pcm # M05269833AH and the swap one is M05269833AI
I think I will disconnect the computer and try to find the # and see if mine is one of these. Also What is a good brand for a fuel filter? I just went with one from autozone a while back not even sure what brand it was?

I would start with check for vac leaks. One way I like to check is to pull off the intake pipe and cover the TB with your hand, the motor should die instantly. If it runs or slowly dies you have a leak. Also do you have a WB? Is the check engine light on?

If you end up replacing the ECU I have a 98 ECU Manual that I am trying to sell

Thats a good idea for the vacuum test. I have the rack out and all my power steering stuff disconnected at the moment so I cant run the car. I do have a wide band and when the car would stall or sputter it would go lean around 16:1. ( I have my idle fuel pressure at 35 psi with 310cc's) I took out the pcm today and the part number is P05269833AH which according to alldata never was meant for 95-99 Eclipse at all! The one recommended is M05269833AI. Not sure where this pcm came from I got the car from a ghetto dealership like 5 years ago. Maybe they got it and it didnt have a pcm so they just threw a random one in there that had the same connectors!? Here is what alldata had for the symptoms under the 95-99 eclipse for a faulty ECU from the factory which was M05269833AH
*DTC 118 (P0172)
*Erroneous emission test failure due to excessive purge flow
*Hesitation and /or stumble in hot spring/summer or abnormally warm winter ambient temperatures
*Rough idle or unstable rpm at low speeds at altitudes above 4,500 feet., after refueling in hot spring/ summer or abnormally warm winter ambient temperatures.

So its looking like a have a pcm that is not even meant for my car which is amazing the car has gone this far! I wonder what car this pcm went to?? Im very interested in the spare pcm you have can you contact me at gallacmic@yahoo.com Can you send pics of the part number?

Not sure if it has to do with your Mitsu but I had a new IAC on an a 93 Chevy Blazer and it didn't run right at all after that installation. After cleaning the ports.... I managed to find out that it indeed was supposed to have an o-ring around the inside port of the IAC. It was missed because the original was missing/deteriorated/gone. Once that was fixed, what a difference. FWIW.

Check it has an o ring. Remember I did a boost leak test and it was air tight. I do have some check valves going to the brake booster, evap, and pcv so there is a possibility of a vacuum leak from those but I really dont think the vacuum leak is the problem especially because the surging only starts once the car has warmed up.

Some good info here...
http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209801

Hey everyone I thought I would give a very important update to my idle problems. I ended falling under the replace the sensors till it fixes it plan which didnt work. Idle air control valve 02 sensor throttle position sensor. So Next was to try and change the coolant temp sensor so I went to autozone to see if I may have done that already and hopefully had it under warranty. The guy at the counter pulled out a data logger and said lets see what all your sensors are saying. So we plugged it in and started up the car and wow! You can see what all your sensors are saying to the ECU. If I would have known about this thing I would probably have seen my sensors I replaced were perfectly fine! It also showed the fuel trim. It said -18% which means the ecu is trying to "trim" off 18% of the amount of fuel its getting (according to auto zone man) This only meant one thing (especially since I know the injectors are brand new 310cc) The fuel pressure was to high and what was happening is the computer was ok with the rich condition while warming up but once it was warm it was trying to make the injectors spray less but it would overcompensate, hence the 16.1 a/f reading during stalling. So with the data logger hooked up I started to turn down the fuel pressure and voila! The fuel trim started to drop! a 0% fuel trim is what is ideal. So I turned it down till it was at -8% and then autozone guy got called in to help at the counter. So he said take it for a spin and see how it does. Right off the car was idling much much better! It still had a very little rpm inconsistency with the fuel trim at -8% but at least now I know what was doing it! I asked the guy how much that thing was and autozone sells them for $150. So I went home and got on ebay and found this one for $55 and it has a graphing feature too! Much better than the one autozone had! But dang its amazing that all along all I had to do is plug this in and see what the sensors are saying! Never have to play the guessing game with sensors if you got one of these! Plus you can adjust your fuel to right where the ecu is happy with it! The feature for data logging is also called "live data"
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130694992363?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I finally fixed my idle problems!!!!! Here is how I did it!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ze4_BKpGoc8