Cuty's 735 is needing help / advise

Hello Kings of the road,

Please head me in the right direction.

 I have a 1992 BMW 735 IL ( 3.5L ) ( Automatic / Manual Transmission which I think is a ZF 4 HP 22 EH )

She has been doing wonderful, runs great handles well, shift good, etc...

Today, I was accelerating to merging into traffic and she seemed on top of her game, when instantly and smoothly the transmission seemed to just go into neutral.

No noise and no jerk. It was there and then it wasn't.

Tomorrow a friend is bringing a trailer to pick her up from the parking lot that she coasted into.

I was looking through the manual and saw that the brakes and the clutch hydraulic system used the same fluid tank and she was low on brake fluid, so I filled the brake fluid tank and tried again with no change. ( Is this mention of a clutch hydraulic system only on manual transmissions ? )

I came home and have been doing some research and I see mention of a flex disk in the drive shaft that one poster says should be checked first, he says that it can split or disconnect yet not be noticeable, however when I do a parts search the 1992 735iL does not seem to have one - I will be able to check tomorrow.

There is also a mention of a CV joint on the driveshaft - Could this shear smoothly with out jerking or noise?

I was scanning for items on the outside of the transmission that may be causing this disconnect response.

No burnt smells, fluid looks good, level in transmission has not changed, no leaking, etc….

Any suggestions on what it could be and how to check it ?

Any advise would be greatly appreciated,

Cutey
.

I still have not been able to see under my Bimmer, but from what I gather from my research last night,
the 735 Automatic does not have a Flex Disk / Coupler / Guiber and the brake fluid reservoir that is
also used by the clutch hydraulic system is only referred to with the manual transmission, so neither
can be the reason for my disconnect to the transmission.

I have seen illustrations of a Driveshaft CV Joint on the 1992 735iL Automatic, I am thinking that could
be the issue.

Again the disconnect was just as smooth as pushing in the clutch on a manual shift.

Any other suggestions to look for and how to check them?

ALSO, even though my 735 has auto transmission and manual mode, it is still considered
an automatic and not a manual, CORRECT?

Any insight from the knowledgeable crowd would be much appreciated,


PS> For the last 3,000 miles when I would drive real slow for a long time. or sit at a long red light I would hear a thump as I started driving, it would get faster with the speed of the car, lessen when I turned to the left, thump harder when I turned to the right and would quit when I speed up to 45 mph or so.

I thought that it was the hydraulic line that ran from the steering reservoir to the self adjusting shocks that were removed and the line capped off in case I wanted to reinstall later. I was told that air might be getting trapped in the line making it flutter, I was going to have that capped at the steering unit when I had the tires rotated.

I guess it could have been a tranny issue instead.

Ok, first of all: Is your transmission an automatic? Or Manual? You can't have both, and especially since you specifically mentioned the 4HP22EH (which is automatic).

Automatics have P-R-N-D-3-2-1 on the shifter lever. So, based on that, here is some info:

First, do a complete transmission fluid change including filter. I personally recommend taking it to a BMW shop or a shop that specializes with imports.

The transmission fluid is self contained (i.e.: not shared with any other system). Transmission fluid and brake fluid are completely different. If you poured brake fluid into the tranny, then yes, you need to do a transmission fluid flush and filter change immediately.

If you poured ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) into the brake chamber, then you have to flush the brakes out IMMEDIATELY along with a tranny flush.

That is the simplest thing first. Second you have all sorts of sensors. The next simplest thing is the gear selector sensor. This is located on the shifter lever inside the car underneath the center console. Clean the contacts. (You can find links in my signature)

Next you have the output shaft speed sensor. If that is goosed, then this might be your problem.

Next up is your torque converter has given up the ghost.

But don't let the last two scare you. Work on the fluid change and the gear selector sensor and report back.

I have seen illustrations of a Driveshaft CV Joint on the 1992 735iL Automatic, I am thinking that could
be the issue.

The clunking noise you heard could be the CV joint. I'll have to do some research on that. But as for the CV joint shearing and causing this transmission neutral problem, that's not possible. You would have heard some clanging and grinding noises because the two driveshaft halves would be disconnected.


ALSO, even though my 735 has auto transmission and manual mode, it is still considered
an automatic and not a manual, CORRECT?


This is correct. The manual mode feature is used specificallyfor when you want to shift the car yourself. The reason for this mode is that the car, with all it's sensors, knows when to shift the car and electronically prepares for it so as to deliver the smoothest shift possible. In manual mode, it is prepared for that all the time. If you leave the gear lever in Drive (and not 3, 2, or 1) but have it in M-mode, this is called winter drive mode. It locks the transmission into 3rd gear so the power is derated when taking off from a stop, preventing wheel spin. Pretty neat, huh? Of course, winter isn't something you need to worry about in Florida.... :P


PS> For the last 3,000 miles when I would drive real slow for a long time. or sit at a long red light I would hear a thump as I started driving, it would get faster with the speed of the car, lessen when I turned to the left, thump harder when I turned to the right and would quit when I speed up to 45 mph or so.


Possibly related to CV shaft noise...again I will do more research on that.

Thanks LincolnMaster80,

Your response gives me hope.

I am making arrangements for Cupcake ( My 735 ) to be picked up and delivered to have the fluid and filter changed. We do not have a BMW shop within 100 miles and the only import shop that I am aware of, seems to get off on sticker shock looks.

I am starting with a trusted mechanic for the basic items. I had considered having the trailered vehicle stopped at the Import shop for a diagnostic reading, I just do not have a trusting feeling about them.

First round as suggested will be change fluid and filter and I am going to search your signature links to find the info on cleaning the contacts for the gear selector sensor.

I would think that he could check the torque converter - I'll ask -

Does it require special equipment to check the output shaft speed sensor?


I went to see Cupcake earlier and we listen to the transmission as we shifted gears and could hear nothing and there is no resistance.

The instrument panel now says " Trans Program ", it did not say that yesterday.

I do not know if it is because of the " Trans Program " display, but the Letter that represents Auto or Manual next to the gear indicator now says nothing, just P,R,N,1,2,3,4 when shifting without "E" or "M" displayed.

Just a note from earlier I did not mix fluids - I was just referring to the owners manual stating that the brake and the clutch hydraulic system used the same reservoir, but I was also told that that only applied to Manual transmissions. Anyway, the fact that the reservoir was low on fluid does not seem to be a factor in my problem.

I am going to review the links in your signature - Thanks.

Lincoln Master 80,

Is it proper to use any kind of cleaner on the internals after the transmission pan is dropped?

I understand that the torque converter will hold some fluids -

Other than draining by removing pan, changing the filter, replacing gasket and pan, and refilling with Dexron II are there any other flushing or parts to change while the pan is off?

I was checking on transmission gaskets and filters at Advance Auto online and they speak of a ZF 3 HP 22 EH and says that it fits my 92 - 735IL which I understand to be a ZF 4.

Does their reference to ZF 3 sound right ?

Thanks

No other parts that I can think of. Just filter and gaskets. It doesn't hurt to look at hoses and stuff while you're under there...y'know, check the condition. Also a good time to inspect driveshaft and other components.

I would have thought that there is a drain plug on your tranny pan??? There is one on my 1990. Maybe they changed it in later years. I know they went to a "sealed for life" transmission but I didn't think that happened until 1995. Anyhow, that's side points...

I'm not sure on the 3HP22 parts. As far as I know (and I have been known to be wrong at times), all E32 BMW's (7-series built between 88-94) have the 4HP22 or 4HP24 for automatic transmissions. You can get the proper part numbers by going to http://www.bmwfans.info, input the last seven digits of your VIN (I highly recommend you memorize those last seven digits or write them down for easy reference), and you can even cross reference part numbers by clicking the part number. I have found so many cheaper parts because some parts for my E32 750iL were also used for a E30 325i. Any how. That's a good link to favorite under a BMW folder.

As for cleaner, I believe there is a transmission flush agent you can add. This does require that you drive the car however. Most often, just changing the fluid is all that is required. The residual that is left behind from the old fluid is not enough to have an impact on the new stuff.

The TRANS PROGRAM error can occur for any reason, but it isn't coincidence that you experience this problem and saw this error message. Sometimes it's a loss of pressure in the valve bodies and the transmission doesn't shift properly, doesn't shift at all, comes out of gear or gears don't engage. This message can appear to electrical problems and sensors. Cleaning the gear lever selector sensor can fix this and cleaning the A/M switch next to the gear lever (or S/E/M switch if so equipped). The output shaft sensor can cause this, down to a duff clutch pack in the torque converter. Hopefully it's a problem with the former as the torque converter can get fairly expensive if you don't have a trusted mechanic on hand.

Basically, the TRANS PROGRAM has put the car into what is known as LIMP MODE. If you sit and think about what LIMP MODE might mean, it's exactly what it implies. Your car is "injured" in a sense so it is limping. Your car will derate power and lock your tranny into high gear so as to reduce the risk of causing further complications. The TRANS PROGRAM is also why you are not seeing the E or the M next to the selected gear display. This was back in the 80's when BMW thought of this, almost 30 years ago...yeah, way ahead of it's time!!! Most of the technology that our cars had back then has only begun to be installed within the last 10 years on most "low end" cars.

As a final note, one web site I order parts from is http://www.autohausaz.com. They are based out of Arizona and are fairly cheap, even with shipping to Canada. Check there with the part numbers you have cross referenced from bmwfans.info.

The issue that I am needing to overcome is that the transmission of my 1992 / 735IL does not
engage into any gear - It was great and then it was gone – No noise, no jerk, just seemed to
go into neutral –

I am starting at ground zero with knowledge about transmissions, but I am reading a lot and have
been given some great suggestions / information.

Any guidance would be appreciated -

( 1 ) My 735 IL was put up on jack stands and the transmission was drained.
( Fluid was not still reddish and did not smell like the new fluid, but I did not think that it smelled burnt )

The pan was dropped and a new filter installed, then reassembled.


Filled with Valvoline DEXRON III / MERCON Maxlife ATF Automatic Transmission Fluid

When the car was started the “ Trans Program “ warning was gone and the M and E displayed along with P,R,N,1,2,3,4.

HOWEVER, there still was no movement at all in the rear wheels when shifting from reverse to drive.

There is no sounds coming from the transmission and the tach does not change when shifting.


( 2 ) I was going to clean the shifter contacts next,
but if the dash display is working DOESN’T THAT MEAN the contacts are working?
SHOULD I CLEAN THEM ANY WAY?

In reviewing the instructions for accessing these contacts, I see mention of the release lever
In the shift handle being connected to a plunger – I NOTE that the release level has never
Worked since I have owned the car –


Would there be any advantage to resetting the computer at this time? I have instructions on
how to disconnect the battery cables and then shorting the cables to drain the capacitor in
the ECU/TCU.


( 3 ) I guess time to move onto other testing –

( A ) Any fuses that affect the transmission not going into gear

( B ) Which of the following are easy to check / test and what order should
they likely be checked?

*Output shaft speed sensor
*Input ( Turbine ) speed sensor

*Pressure regulating solenoids ( EDS )
*Magnetic Valve ( Shift ) Solenoids ( MV )
All magnetic valves (except THM R-1 to 12/95) are supplied power from an internal relay
located in the TCM. The magnetic valves are switched on and off by final stage transistors
in the TCM. During failsafe operation, power to all MV’s is switched off by the internal relay.


*Torque Converter Lock up Solenoid

*Band Brake Regulator

* Kick down Switch ( I am not sure I have one )

*Torque converter
4HP22/24 EH - These transmissions use an on/off control method to lock and unlock the torque converter.
The Torque Converter Clutch is either completely engaged or disengaged.


*Transmission Control Module

*Emergency Program
When a malfunction occurs within the transmission, the Emergency program (failsafe mode)
will be initiated. The Emergency Program will prevent unintended gear engagement and
ensure driver safety. The following will occur during Failsafe Operation:
• All shift solenoids are de-energized via TCM internal relay.
• The pressure regulation solenoid is de-energized resulting in maximum line pressure.
• The Torque Converter Clutch is de-activated. ( Interesting )
• The Reverse Lockout function is cancelled.
• Shift lock solenoid is de-energized.


*Valve Control Body (VCB) Switches gears



.

Krickey! You've certainly done your research. Good job. :D What you are doing is troubleshooting, aka eliminating possible causes.

Before I get into details with replying to your thread, and I just thought of this as I was reading your latest post, I'm going to ask one simple question: To move the car, do you have to take it out of park?

If no, then I highly recommend you checking the gear selector shifter cable. It may have come loose. In some cases, it may be nessessary to replace the cable.

If yes, then it may not be the gear selector shifter cable, BUT it is worth checking as those have been known to go slack and cause problems similiar to what you are having. I can't provide any explanation as to why it went suddenly as usually it's something that progresses, i.e.: gears not engaging unless you shift all the way into 2 or 1, or engaging sometimes but not all the time.

I don't know enough to say whether or not a loose/slack selector cable would cause the TRANS PROGRAM error...I would say not but at least you are eliminating that possibility.

If the cable is fine...then it was worth a look because that would have been so dead easy and simple...and likely free.

Anyhow, on with the rest of your post.

1), at least you got it changed. It sounded like it was at that stage when it wasn't bad, but probably shouldn't have gone on much longer.

2) Yes, it's a good idea to clean. It's simple and easy to do and it will be one less thing to wonder about if that may be the cause.

Resetting the computer could very well be the magical fix to this all, some have dubbed it "The Magic Reset" because it will solve the most mystifying problems. One thing to mention is that these cars are very, VERY, VERY sensitive to voltage. The slightest increase or decrease in voltage flow (aka resistance) can wreak havoc in some cases, and you're left scratching your head wondering what is going on and seeing nothing but dollar signs being thrown at your car. This can be caused by an old battery to something harder to find like a broken wire. (Speaking of broken wire, do some research on "fusible link." Even upon inspection it may look fine, it might have microfractures...)

I can't give you any info on anything in 3.B except that I do believe your car should have the kick down switch. I say that because there may have been models that weren't fitted, but I don't recall any info saying that. To find out for sure, press the throttle pedal all the way to the floor until it stops (car should not be running for this). When it stops, push it just a little bit harder and you should feel like something gave way. Or if you want a visual, look underneath the throttle pedal and you should see a large round button looking thing and give it a push. If it doesn't push, try pulling on it slightly to see if maybe it is stuck in. Like I say, you should have it...

A good forum to check out (and that is responded to other than myself) is bimmerboard.com. There is this 7-series guru handled "shogun" and he will most definately help you out, along with the other guys on there.

LincolnMaster80,

Thanks for the thoughtful reply, my research has been greatly influenced by you wonderful guys and yes including Shogun too -

It is this feedback that gives that feeling of anything is possible -

It really helps to get pointed in the right direction -

You mentioned "Park" and I am thinking, how did I not think to verify that Park was or was not working - I have been putting it in Park, because that is a habit -

I will check on Wednesday -

I will look into the gear selector cable - I thought the contacts on the shifter sent an electrical message to the transmission instead of using a cable -

I poured some of the old ATF into a plastic water bottle, so that I could see if it had any metal shavings in it - I say no, others say they see some real fine metal dust - Maybe!

I will reset the computer next - I have the " Magic Reset Instructions" and I think that I found them on one of the links in your signature -

I found some info on checking solenoids, etc... with a volt / ohm meter -
I do not have any experience here either, but I will in a couple of days -

Any other info on trouble shooting / testing would be appreciated -

I went to Advantage Auto Parts to rent a computer code reader, but they said their unit would not fit the 92 BMW - He thought the earliest was 97 -

If I were to call around, what type of reader would I be looking for?

Thanks again for taking the time to share your knowledge,

There is only one code reader that I know of for our early OBD cars.
They aren't cheap if you buy directly from them. Its made by a company called CarSoft, you can google them. I got my carsoft from a website called dealextreme.com. You will need a computer (preferably a laptop) with a serial port for this software to work. If you don't have one, your money just might be better spent hauling your car to someone who can run a scan. Its unfortunate that you live so far away from a BMW dealership as they have the most comprehensive scanners available. But for the money you spend now can possibly save you a bunch of headache down the road when attempting to troubleshoot future problems.

If you buy from dealextreme, the carsoft 6.5 will work with our early OBD computers. I hear the brand new ones off Carsoft web site are best and a bit more comprehensive than 6.5. The dealextreme came with all the cables including ones for your car and for newer OBD II BMW's and including the software. I recommend a laptop with Windows XP as I had trouble getting carsoft software to work on my Vista laptop.

But the guy you talked to is right. The earliest the code scanners at the stores can read is late 97 BMW's.

I am going to reset the computer today.

I have a couple sheets that refer to ohm testing different components,
that sounds easy enough if the correct test points can be located.

Anyone have any additional literature that may have illustrations or good descriptions to find the correct contact points to apply the ohm meter?

NOTE: I could not load pictures from my hard drive, please refer to post link below for photos of sockets.

http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/13178405-Transmission-has-no-grab-Just-weird!!-One-second-it-is-here-and-next-it-is-GONE!!?p=13198420&posted=1#post13198420



Today I cleaned the Shifter selector and the A & M switch contacts, they were not bad looking.

I did a reset of the onboard computer - Disconnected the cables from the battery and "Shorted them for 20 minutes".

Please supply the " Magic Reset" instructions - Where the doors are locked and then unlocked, etc... I apparently failed to print them out.

I checked the shifter cable - Looked Ok -

I identified the transmission as a 4 HP - 22 ZF -

I checked fuses 1,15, 17, & 20.

I confirmed that I do have Kickdown switch under the gas peddle.
( It did not appear to compress under pressure, should it ? )

I did confirm that Park does engage, while it does appear to be the only gear.


I have located an OHM meter and ready to dig deeper.

I located two electrical sockets under the hood -
* The diagnostic socket - 10 points - not numbered
* A numbered 25 point connector just behind the Diagnostic socket.

I am looking for test that can be ran on these two sockets with an OHM meter.

( Picture at mentioned link mentioned )


Neither socket look like the 7 point and the 8 point shown below.

Are the 7 & 8 point sockets located somewhere else?


( Picture of sockets at link mentioned )


Where are the connectors mentioned below located?
Any picture of the above connectors?

http://twrite.org/shogunnew/topmenu.html Suggested tests of:
Transmission Control Unit Connector,
Motronic Control Unit Connector,
Program Selector Switch Connector,
Transmission Range Display Connector,



Other tests that need instructions:

*How is the torque converter tested? Says that the convertor is either engaged or not / on or off/ This test is important.
*Output shaft sensor
*Transmission oil pump test
*Transmission pressure regulator test
*Band brake regulator





The next two sound serious - Must


*Magnetic Valve ( Shift ) Solenoids ( MV )
All magnetic valves (except THM R-1 to 12/95) are supplied power from an internal relay
located in the TCM. The magnetic valves are switched on and off by final stage transistors
in the TCM. During failsafe operation, power to all MV’s is switched off by the internal relay.




*Emergency Program
When a malfunction occurs within the transmission, the Emergency program (failsafe mode)
will be initiated. The Emergency Program will prevent unintended gear engagement and
ensure driver safety. The following will occur during Failsafe Operation:
• All shift solenoids are de-energized via TCM internal relay.
• The pressure regulation solenoid is de-energized resulting in maximum line pressure.
• The Torque Converter Clutch is de-activated. ( Interesting )
• The Reverse Lockout function is cancelled.
• Shift lock solenoid is de-energized.


Any test instructions or component locations would be greatly appreciated -


I should be able to come to final conclusion soon -

Thanks to everyone -

I did a reset of the onboard computer - Disconnected the cables from the battery and "Shorted them for 20 minutes".

Please supply the " Magic Reset" instructions - Where the doors are locked and then unlocked, etc... I apparently failed to print them out.


If you've done the battery disconnect and short, then you've done a magic reset. :)


I confirmed that I do have Kickdown switch under the gas peddle.
( It did not appear to compress under pressure, should it ? )

Yes it should. If you pushed with with your hand, it may need more pressure than what your hand might supply, i.e.: use your foot. If you did use your foot, then it maybe you just can't feel it or the button "click" feel might be too subtle to notice (it's definately noticeable on my car). While I don't think this would be the cause of your problem, it functions by downshifting to the lowest possible gear when you've got the throttle floored. You'll definately notice the difference when this button is activated...

On second thought, maybe ask 'shogun' if this might be the cause of your problem if kickdown switch is activated all the time even when not driving with the pedal to the floor. I'm curious to know...

LincolnMaster80,

Thanks for the continued help, it is very much appreciated.

I will ask Shogun about the result of a kickdown switch being stuck in active mode.

I had someone else step on the switch while I felt it and i detected zero movement -


I did not make it to see Cupcake today, but I will be there early in the morning to beat the heat -


Everybody says to take the car to a shop, but I really do not have one that I trust -

It least if I have to take it somewhere, I want to understand what is happening so that I can defend myself and not be a victim -

I also plan to have a second Bimmer soon and I figure that I should get to understand how they work. And of course the best deals are likely those that have an issue -


Four things that I keep thinking about are:

*Magnetic Valve ( Shift ) Solenoids ( MV )
All magnetic valves (except THM R-1 to 12/95) are supplied power from an internal relay
located in the TCM. The magnetic valves are switched on and off by final stage transistors in the TCM. During failsafe operation, power to all MV’s is switched off by the internal relay.




*Emergency Program
When a malfunction occurs within the transmission, the Emergency program (failsafe mode) will be initiated. The Emergency Program will prevent unintended gear engagement and ensure driver safety. The following will occur during Failsafe Operation:
• All shift solenoids are de-energized via TCM internal relay.[/COLOR][/COLOR][/B]
• The pressure regulation solenoid is de-energized resulting in maximum line pressure.
• The Torque Converter Clutch is de-activated. ( Interesting )
• The Reverse Lockout function is cancelled.
• Shift lock solenoid is de-energized.

Well, with the technical part of the shift solenoids and such, I will let the guru's guide you on that one. I'm not a total newb when it comes to these transmissions, but I certainly wouldn't want to steer you in the wrong direction, if you understand where I'm coming from. (In other words, I don't know everything).

I am intregued by the kickdown button, though... Have a read through the following thread on RoadFly:
http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/12560164-stuck-in-3rd-gear....please-help

The more I think about it, the more I feel it's probably not a good thing that the kickdown switch is stuck on...

LincolnMaster80,

This was Shogun's response:

Quote:

I can only tell you what the Bentley Manual says

throttle position switch TPS, testing and adjusting (M30 engine, w/o EML

On the M30 w/o EML a throttle position switch provides an idle and full throttle position signal to the ECM.
The idle position signal is used mainly for activation of the idle speed control valve. The full throttle position signal is used for AC compressor cutouts and fuel enrichment.

The TPS is mounted to the side of the throttle housing . The switch can be checked with the thottle housing installed.

Note: on 735 models with traction control (ASC), the EML control module provides the throttle position signal to the ECM.

Disconnect harness from throttle switch.
With ignition on, check the supply voltage (VDC) to switch. If voltage is not present, check wiring from ECM.

TPS terminals M30

automatic transmission
idle position 4 and 6
full throttle position 4 and 5
Check the continuity at switch terminals with throttle at idle and at full open positions. Adjust or replace switch if any faults are found.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

If I get a OBD-1 and run a fault code diagnostic reading, will I find evidence of what my problem is ?

I am finding that checking each component individually is very time consuming.

I do find it all interesting and I do wish to continue the learning experience, but I also do need to get Cupcake back on the road again.

I may need to buy a second car at my current rate of exploring,

A scan would definately help. Keep in mind, the scanner you're looking for has to have the BMW specific OBD cables.

Here is the exerpt from the Bently's manual that shogun posted, just to give you that picture reference. If you do not see this, then you have a different setup (see the pics after "Different Setup")

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s230/viper_crazy/WP_000006.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s230/viper_crazy/WP_000007.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s230/viper_crazy/WP_000008.jpg

DIFFERENT SETUP

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s230/viper_crazy/WP_000010.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s230/viper_crazy/WP_000011.jpg

I had been asking around for one, but the reply has been that they did not have the BMW cables -

I found this on DealsExtreme.com -

It will take over a week to get and my computer doesn't have the old (RS232 PC Interface plug )

Carsoft 6.5 Vehicle Diagnostic Tools with Software CD for BMW (RS232 PC Interface)
Price: $56.93


- Manufacturer's product descriptions:
- MCU controlled Interface for Carsoft 6.5 which is compatible with the original interface.
- Fully digital line switchings and MCU controlled service reset timing.
- Main Functions
- Digital total test: It gives you a complete idea of the overall condition of the car.
- Digital single test: It gives you detailed information about the appropriate control unit.
- Stored errors will be shown in a written report. This report has a short info-text which help you to eliminate the error.
- Special functions for some models: Including service interval reset, component activation, live data, LCM reading, sync. EWS and ECU, adaptation values, and coding.
- Applications list
- E30 - 3 Series
- DME ALL
- DDE ALL
- AB From 1998
- BC/MID ALL
- DWA ALL
- E36 C 3 Series
- KOMBI Except kompakt
- AB ALL
- ABS ALL
- ASC ALL
- ZKE From 1994
- ZVM Till 1994
- HKL ALL
- EGS ALL
- EWS ALL
- E46 C 3 Series
- KOMBI ALL
- DSC ALL
- ZKE ALL
- LCM ALL
- CCM ALL
- PDC ALL
- CVM ALL
- Z3
- E34 C 5 Series
- KOMBI From 02/98
- ABS From 1992
- ASC From 1992
- E39 C 5 Series
- ZVM ALL
- E53 C X5
- E32 C 7 Series ... E38, E31, E52


Specifications
Item: Carsoft 6.5 Vehicle Diagnostic Tools with Software CD for BMW (RS232 PC Interface)
Dimensions: 4.41 in x 2.52 in x 0.91 in
Weight: 20.64 oz

That is the cheapest scanner avaliable. However, you need a laptop with a serial port (RS232 plug) most commonly found on laptops that have Windows XP installed (usually early 2000's).

You can get USB-to-Serial adaptors (the cheap ones I found didn't work well, at least on Windows Vista). But what I ended up getting is an ExpressCard adaptor. I'll go find my scanner hardware and upload pics.

Here is the complete CarSoft 6.5 kit you get from DealExtreme (left out is the software disk that comes with it). It comes with both the OBD and OBD-II cables:
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s230/viper_crazy/WP_000012.jpg

This is the end you will need to plug into your OBD on your car:
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s230/viper_crazy/WP_000013.jpg

This is what the RS232 Serial connection looks like:
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s230/viper_crazy/WP_000014.jpg

This is the ExpressCard adaptor that converts the serial cable into a signal the computer can read since my computer doesn't have a serial cable ports installed:
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s230/viper_crazy/WP_000015.jpg

Hopefully you have a computer that has a serial port as that will make your life a bit more simpler. Also note, that there is a port on your computer that will look similiar to a serial port, but it isn't. It's a graphics port in case you ever want to hook up to an external/secondary monitor...

LincolnMaster80,

I do appreciate the photos, very helpful.

DealExtreme has the card adapter also,
RS232 Serial Port 34mm Express Card Adapter for Laptop
Price: $9.80

I have read a couple of places, and one may have been from you that this 6.5 software works better on XP than it does on Vista.

Interesting bit about the serial port from a guy that makes an adapter,
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=21331620&postcount=23

Yes, CarSoft does work better on XP. I had an opportunity to try my diagnostics on my friends XP laptop and it ran much smoother.

Shogun brings up some interesting information also:

Quote:
|
interesting is also this thread
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1657767

for the diagnosis tool better buy the one from Gert, he even has some additional stuff designed to read in the check control data

for example he mentioned:
Most of these observations stem from being able to see what the TCU is doing after I had my own failed 4HP24:
P = input to TCU from shift lever
EGS: 2 = signal send to tranny shift coils, converted binary.
- = will be a T when the TC is (should be) engaged
P: 56 = signal to pressure regulator coil, is a PWM signal

h ttp:// ww w.bim me rb oar d.co m/me mber s/rv8fly boy/disp 5.JPG

End quote

LincolnMaster80,

Are you saying that you have been successful with Carsoft on Vista?

Well, I've scanned my car with both my Vista laptop and my friends XP laptop...unless my CarSoft is shot, I got identical results. In the beginning, it took me a little while to figure out how to get it working, but I got it. Mostly it was the USB-to-serial adaptors I was using, until I found out the ExpressCard adaptor and everything seemed to respond. I've posted pictures of my scan results asking why I couldn't get a responce form certain modules, but apparently it's because those systems weren't invented yet. There is one problem I have with my V12 that I can't diagnose with an OBD scan. I'm chalking that one up to the supposed limited capabilities of CarSoft 6.5...I want Version 10 that's out now....

http://www.carsoftsales.com/BMW73/pricelist.html
http://www.carsoftsales.com/BMW73/dloads/BMW10-coverage.pdf

That being said, I don't really know what failure is when it comes to CarSoft because I haven't had the opportunity to try any other OBD programs.

I usually do not have to use the typical “ Blonde” disclaimer, but I have more information
that may should have been applied much earlier in my diagnostic quest.

First I do want to thank everyone that has contributed to the discussion and to my questions –

Also I have downloaded http://www.e38.org/electran1.pdf Electronic Transmission Control Manual
And http://www.e38.org/transfund1.pdf that clearly shows a many number of components
could be causing my no gear issue.

Everyone should download a copy of these manuals – I am still absorbing –


When I purchased Cupcake 18 months ago I was presented with receipts that showed the transmission
and engine had both been overhauled only 20,000 miles earlier, now at 35,000. I cannot currently find
those receipts – But I did not expect any trouble out of either –

I also had the LAD shocks removed and standard shocks installed – The had told the shop that did this
To cap the hydraulic line from the power steering pump at the shocks in case I wanted to re-use latter –

Shortly after leaving the area I noticed a noise coming from under the car, that I thought was this line
Pulsating.

This noise would only happen when I would idle for an extended amount of time or would drive very slowly
For an extended amount of time –

When it would happen, it would only make the thumping sound when the car was moving, it would increase
In speed as the car did also, it would get loader when I steered to the right and stop when I steered to the left.

As I drove faster so did the thump until I would reach about 45 mph approx. and then it would quit – Once it
Quit it would be fine until I went back to long idling –

I thought that the powers steering line had air in it that would cause it to jump like an air filled waterline will –
I see now that the mechanic had capped the line at the pump so the noise was coming from another source,
Like maybe the transmission –


Does this noise give anyone any insight as to the likely problem?

Sorry, I did not reply sooner. Just got busy with life and etc.

I'm sad to say that I do not know the cause of this pulsating effect. I don't even have any suggestions as to what could possibly check. Best leave this one to shogun on your other thread you have going.

WOW!

I have been so side tracked that I haven't been to see Cupcake for a few days,
I am gearing up for another round of trying to figure this puzzle out.

On this trip I intend to pull the top cooling line from the transmission to the radiator
to check that the pump is working. (Removing line, starting vehicle and then put into gear)

Question: I am wanting to test the four solenoids in the transmission –
Transmission Control Unit Connector – is on the transmission left side above the oil pan

I have pulled and twisted to remove this connector so that I can run ohms tests,
What is the correct way to remove this connector ?

I was in the early stage of collecting diagnostic information when the pan was removed
And the fluid was changed – Should I remove the pan again to check the speed sensor,
Solenoids or anything else ?

I am really confused about the two pages below ----

Could someone explain where the connector pictured on page two is located ?

Is the TranX2000 – 25 way pin behind the diagnostic socket ?

The speed sensor test refers to points 5 & 6, where would these points be located ?

On page two it says that the green wire is case connector pin K and relates to the shift
solenoid 2 vehicle function and then it references pin 8 on the TransX 2000.

What is the test procedure described here? Connectivity between Pins 12 and 8 ?

Page one – Solenoid test –
Solenoid 1 – Mentions Gear 1 setting ( TranX ) and 1 Output channel –
Is this reference to Tranx an electronic testing devise ?


I usually do not have a problem following this kind of information, I am not sure
Why I look at these pages – thinking, huh?


Is the information clear or am I experiencing the same stuck in neutral malfunction as my transmission ?

Thanks in advance

I WASN’T ABLE TO ADD PICTURES TO THIS FORUM, PLEASE REFER TO:
http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/13178405-Transmission-has-no-grab-Just-weird!!-One-second-it-is-here-and-next-it-is-GONE!!?p=13198860#post13198860

1992 BMW 735 iL update

I went to do more diagnostics on " Cupcake " and ended up in one our biggest rains of the season - I just cannot seem to get into a flow with this transmission related project, however I was able to remove the cooling line to the radiator in an attempt to make sure the internal pump was working and OMG, I started the engine, stepped out of the car to look and fluid was everywhere - I had not put the car into gear as of yet -

Fortunately I had read where someone else had done the same and had created a large mess, so I had layered the are with plastic and was able to slide the mess out from under the car and apply fresh plastic and hose the engine down -


Sure appeared to me that the pump was working fine -

The cleanup was done in a down pour - Soaking wet - Stopped -


I am wanting to test the four solenoids in the transmission –
Transmission Control Unit Connector – is on the transmission left side above the oil pan

I have pulled and twisted - What is the correct way to disconnect ???
This appears to me to be the connector pictured on my page three below -


I am still confused of the location of the connector pictured on my page two -
I would imagine that to many of you this page is clear as day, I am experience
blonde-gities on this one - Any input that could clear this connector up for me ???

I very well may have to take Cupcake to a shop - I really hate being defeated -
I pride myself for being a do'er -

I WASN’T ABLE TO ADD PICTURES TO THIS FORUM, PLEASE REFER TO:
http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/131...0#post13198860

Well, the bright side to take it to a shop is you won't have to worry about getting wet and working out in the rain... :P That and the time you spend trying to figure it out sometimes is money well spent to get it fixed sooner.

Keep with it. You'll figure it out soon.

LincolnMaster80,

I agree on all accounts :)

Once I decide that I am going to figure something out, I am slow to give it up -

Your help and insights have been very much appreciated.