Yamaha YZR 500 OW48

iceracer1

05-03-2012, 03:03 PM

Hi folks :wave:

Time to build a bike again, so here it is:

It's a Tamiya Yamaha YZR 500 OW48:

http://www.modelbrouwers.nl/albums/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/inhoud_28129_28Custom29~1.JPG

It's a pretty simple (and old) kit that's been re-issued, so the details are not that good. But it's still a Tamiya kit so it will look gorgious when finished :D

http://www.modelbrouwers.nl/albums/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/inhoud_28529_28Custom29~1.JPG

http://www.modelbrouwers.nl/albums/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/inhoud_28429_28Custom29~1.JPG

http://www.modelbrouwers.nl/albums/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/inhoud_28329_28Custom29~1.JPG

As you can see I'll TS-16 Yellow for the body. Don't know if i use the airbrush or spraycan, but we'll see.

I already glued the fairings together and added some putty to fill up the gaps.

http://www.modelbrouwers.nl/albums/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/inhoud_28229_28Custom29~1.JPG

Here's a cool video of Kenny Roberts that rides the museum YZR500

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVROhRLrQ3U

If someone has some more reference pictures of this bike, please let me know!

Kris.

HIPPIE2

05-15-2012, 05:02 PM

First off looking great.

I cannot help with much reference pictures but I built this awhile ago and managed to figure out most of the simpler stuff. First your going to want to add some fuel lines to the carbs. Then attaching to the top circle thing of the carb a thin line comes off. If your not going for super detail I would suggest to just run these in to the hallows of the tank above. Then from the crank case on the bottom a line comes off and runs to your larger gauge on the dash. There's a small tab on the radiator, use this and run a line there to the smaller heat gauge on the dash. Then the two cables ruining from the box on the dash to the piece on the engine that tamiya already added two tabs to (sorry forgot the name). There's also a over flow bottle on the radiator the same side as the heat sensor. Lastly your going to need a breather tube on the tank. Not a ton of detail but it looks decent hope it helps. I did this on there other kit of the same bike:

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd396/dragsterlover/DSCN2088.jpg

At this time the cable from the top of the carbs weren't ran yet.

Hope it helps.

iceracer1

07-20-2012, 09:40 AM

I finally got an update.

First I sanded all the fairings untill they were smooth enough for a layer of Gunze White 1200 Surfacer.

After primer I sprayed the TS-16 Yellow from the spraycan. I had a bit trouble with this paint cause it runs very quick. I had to start again with the fueltank. But now it's all smooth.

After drying I masked of the big fairing and painted the white area with Modelmaster GLoss White. When this was dry I was able to add all the decals. I thought it would be a nightmare cause I hate adding decals, but this was pretty simple. I used a lot of Microscale MicroSOL and a hairdryer and the decals react very well. I had to add a bit of black paint here and there afterwards.

I also removed the molded fairingscrews and replaced them with Top Studio screws.

http://www.modelbrouwers.nl/albums/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/paint__28129_28Custom29.JPG

http://www.modelbrouwers.nl/albums/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/paint__28229_28Custom29.JPG

http://www.modelbrouwers.nl/albums/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/paint__28329_28Custom29.JPG

http://www.modelbrouwers.nl/albums/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/paint__28429_28Custom29.JPG

http://www.modelbrouwers.nl/albums/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/paint__28529_28Custom29.JPG

http://www.modelbrouwers.nl/albums/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/paint__28629_28Custom29.JPG

The wheels were painted Mr. Metal Color Gold. I like the result very much, but I don't know if I need to clearcoat them or leave them like this. What should I do?

http://www.modelbrouwers.nl/albums/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/paint__28729_28Custom29.JPG

Next week I'll add some Sikkens 2K Clear on these parts.

Kris.

John18d

07-23-2012, 11:58 AM

hey Kris - you're off to a good start - nice work on the tank and body panels and the decals. I would leave the wheels without clear. I've seen this bike in person at Laguna Seca and it doesn't have real shiny wheels. Also the gold color you have used is not the correct shade for the Bike, but if you're not too worried about that - I'm not either. In fact I didn't think the Bike in general was that shiny. It had gloss but not 2K gloss if you know what I mean. Still this is your build and I am not one to criticize your work - just my thoughts - I will follow your build - I once built this kit back in 92' and entered it in a modeling contest at Las Vegas and won the bike class with it. It is a kit that doesn't need too much to make it into a nice model - John

iceracer1

07-24-2012, 12:52 PM

Thanks for your reply John.

I always want to seal the decals under a shiny clearcoat. I know the bikes are not that shiny and mostly the decals are placed after paint. Maybe it's not as realistic as it should be but I don't mind about that.

The gold wheels are now clearcoated but I don't like the result for this bike. So I'm gonna add another layer of that gold and leave it like that. It's the closest goldish color I have so I have to deal with it.

Kris.

John18d

07-24-2012, 04:19 PM

John18d

07-24-2012, 04:24 PM

Kris - in the picture above of the wheels - did you airbrush that gold color or brush paint?? if you airbrushed, what did you use to reduce "thin" the paint?? and what ratio of paint to thinner did you use? I just ordered some of the Mr. Hobby metalic colors from Japan. I have never used them before so I could use some help in using them as the writing on the box and bottle is all Japanese. Thanks Kris - John

Hey Kris - I just now noticed the rivets in the body fairing - nice touch - John

iceracer1

08-01-2012, 11:16 AM

Kris - I'm with you - I 2K clearcoat my models too to protect the paint and keep the decals from yellowing - as for your concerns about the wheels - I'm with you - use what you have and enjoy the pleasure you get from the hobby - I for one am not a die-hard purist that has to have it exactly like the real thing - I also use what colors I have and am happy so long as the result is generally close. There are some real anal people on this forum where if you do not have something exact they will "cut you up" and belittle your work, but I am not one of those. There is an option to having a less glossy finish and that is with 1K but I do not use it. I like the results of a 2K system and use it exclusively now. Usually with wheels I do not clear them - I paint them their color and that usually gives a semi gloss to matt finish which is found on most wheels of racing motorcycles. Keep up the good work Kris - John

You're right John. There are some very purist people here, but I do what I can. I can invest in every detail, but it has to be a fun hobby. I only invest in visible details and sometimes it depends on the kind of model I'm building and sometimes about the price. I also like OOB builds and they still look great without PE and expensive detailparts.

To answer your question about the gold paint. I used an airbrush for this. I just use the gold straight from the bottle cause it's very thin. I used a 0.4mm nozzle and needle this time but normally I use the 0.2mm for this paint.

The Mr. Color metal paints are very good. They spray nicely and the result is also great. Most of these paints needs a bit of polishing with a dry soft cloth to get that real metal finish!

Kris.

iceracer1

08-01-2012, 11:17 AM

Last week I was able to clearcoat the fairings and the frame. The result is very smooth as I said myself :D

http://www.modelbrouwers.nl/albums/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/clear_28129_28Custom29~1.JPG

http://www.modelbrouwers.nl/albums/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/clear_28329_28Custom29~1.JPG

http://www.modelbrouwers.nl/albums/coppermine/albums/userpics/10027/clear_28229_28Custom29~1.JPG

Hopefully I can start on the engine soon.

Kris.

John18d

08-01-2012, 11:38 AM

body work - decals and paint look great - John

iceracer1

09-02-2012, 10:06 AM

John18d

09-03-2012, 02:24 AM

Kris - what made you decide to paint the carburetors "copper" ? on the real bike these are a "flat aluminum" color with gold carb tops. I'm just asking not opening up a long list of criticizing. I just thought that was an un-usual color for carbs. The rest is looking okay. - John

MidMazar

09-06-2012, 07:57 AM

I always liked this livery, looking good. Keep us posted.

iceracer1

09-12-2012, 09:42 AM

John18d

09-12-2012, 10:23 AM

Kris - this has really come along nicely - can't wait to see it finished - John

wesker

09-12-2012, 06:26 PM

very nice.:thumbsup:

MichaelG2

04-17-2013, 12:32 PM

Iceracer -

How did you get the yellow number plate decal to lay down so smooth? I have tried this over and over again and I cant get it to lay flat without folding over on itself. Any advise you can give would be helpful as mine looks less than good. 48632

MichaelG2

04-17-2013, 12:37 PM

I just realized that yours is painted on after looking at the decal sheet again. Bummer. Maybe i need stronger decal setting solution. Any advice would stil be appreciated. Thanks all.

John18d

04-17-2013, 02:49 PM

MichaelG. I'm not sure which decal setting solutions you have tried but when I have a decal that requires extreme curves or compound curves I use a product called Solvaset. It is used mostly by the train people for decals on box cars. Anyhow it is very aggressive so I suggest you practice first. When I use it I apply the decal to the position I want it -blot off the water and "paint" the Solvaset on the decal with a soft brush - then leave it alone for 3-4 hours - do not mess with it or you will definitely damage the decal. After 3-4 hours if the decal is not fully snuggled down and smooth just apply "paint" a little more Solvaset to the wrinkles and leave it alone again for 3-4 hours. Repeat as necessary to get a nice smooth result. It is important not to mess with it when you are waiting for the Solvaset to work its magic. If you can't find Solvaset at your local hobby shop google it or check at model train shops
Hope this helps
John

MichaelG2

04-19-2013, 05:22 PM

John,

Thank you so much for the info. I will give it a try. Thank you! :smile:

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Yamaha YZR 500 OW48