N20 Question

I dont know much about nitrous, in fact I have never actually seen a nitrous kit installed(in person). I was thinking about maybe investing in a N20 kit soon and I need to know a couple things. Do you only want to use it in 5th gear? What about in an auto? The reason I ask is beacuse it seems like if you hit the nitrous in 3rd or 4th gear you would rev to fast to change gears quick enough to gain speed. But I don't have a single clue to how you would go about it. And about how many shots do you get in a medium-sized tank? And one last question which just may the dumbest, do you hold the button for a sec. or just hit it and let go? Any info would be appreciated.

You can usually hold it for about 15 seconds. Depends on how much you are putting in. So lets just assume a 50 shot which is 2 lbs per minute. The average bottle is ten pounds. So 4 times a minute, times five would give you 20 times you can hit it before needing refilled.

Doesn't matter which gear your in. It will speed things up a bit though. :) Not so much as you can't compensate by shifting.

Well from personal experience...no you definetly do not want to use N2O in fifth gear as that is an overdrive gear and can't handle the power too well. First gear is completely useless unless you like to buy tires alot, or you just want to put on a smoke show. What kind of car are you considering putting this in? My Zex kit activates at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) which is activated by a toggle switch (you're watching too many movies). So you hit the toggle and when you gun it the NOS kicks in. What I do is activate the switch right after I shift into second.. get up to about 4k and punch it......zoom zoom! When your done racing flip the toggle off. Yes there are such things as the push buttons, but you don't need that. PWMAN hit the refills on the head.. however when your tank gets down to about 3lbs or less your nitrous isn't performing to what it is capable of because of lost pressure. Below 2lbs is close to nothing at all! And to furthermore.. if you are going to be using this on the street alot (which you shouldn't be) invest in a remote bottle opener, of course if it is going in a trunk? It's a pain in the ass when some dipshit pulls next to you and your bottle is off! Hope I helped........

Depending on the kit you can hold WOT or the button down as long as you like. It's not recommended however.

5th gear will not "wear out" just cause it's an overdrive, It's not weaker then any other gear, in fact, this should be the last gear that breaks because it puts so much less stress on the tranny being as it's so long.

hmm.. that's interesting! Of course, that part of my answer was based on someone else suggestion from here so I just took heed of it. If you were going to use it in fifth gear, probably wouldn't be a good idea until you hit at least 4500 or 5k right? Whatta ya think?

Originally posted by Mr. Anderson
however when your tank gets down to about 3lbs or less your nitrous isn't performing to what it is capable of because of lost pressure. Below 2lbs is close to nothing at all!

That is true, I forgot about that.

A friend of mine runs a nitrogen bottle to keep the pressure in the n2o bottle up. He uses a seperate solenoid to transfer the gas.

Interesting........got any links to that!? Never heard of it before...

o.k. thanks for the help, damn this forum kicks ass.

Don't spray in 5th gear the reason is b/c the car needs to be in a low gear so that the car can speed up quickly, when in 5th gear though it won't and you will do damage to the motor not the tranny the extra strain will be put on the motor. Also I would recomend a WOT switch. If you don't install a WOT swirch then be sure to never spray any other time than WIDE OPEN THROTTLE! I have been using N20 for about 2yrs now and I have had no serious problems my internals are fine and compression on my motor is extremely good for the situation(192,190,190,192) spec is (199,199,199,199) but the motor has 135k miles on it also so I think it is rather excellent compression numbers.

It will not matter what gear your in.

aha ha ha, really really stupid question but it's kinda relevant...

is wide open throttle redline (or close to it) or is it when your foot is when the gas pedal is completely depressed?

Originally posted by Cronic
It will not matter what gear your in.

Ok pall you go ahead and spray in 5th gear and see how long that lasts! You will either be replacing clutch, or piston rings b/c when you try spraying in 5th gear your clutch fries itself and the engine redlines hitting the fuel cutoff and suddenly there is a lean condition and you know the rest and if you don't then you don't know what you are talking about and should stay away from giving ppl advice on somethng you know nothing about.


iceiso:

WOT is when the pedal is pressed to the floor ( the throttle plate is turned horizontal);)

Originally posted by whtteg

the engine redlines hitting the fuel cutoff and suddenly there is a lean condition and you know the rest and if you don't then you don't know what you are talking about and should stay away from giving ppl advice on somethng you know nothing about.

THAT is why you kill your fuel cutoff, and have engine cutoff controlled by an aftermarket ignition system that cuts spark, rather than fuel.

Originally posted by Self


THAT is why you kill your fuel cutoff, and have engine cutoff controlled by an aftermarket ignition system that cuts spark, rather than fuel.

I know, and that is why I am running a jacobs nitrous mastermind along with a ice pack, but he said it was ok to spray in 5th gear which IMO is a very bad thing unless you are going extremely fast like 100mph plus and you are in the powerband of 5th gear which in honda's is almost nonexsistant. So that is why I said that b/c I think he does not have as much knowledge about this subject as he thinks he does.

Originally posted by whtteg


I know, and that is why I am running a jacobs nitrous mastermind along with a ice pack, but he said it was ok to spray in 5th gear which IMO is a very bad thing unless you are going extremely fast like 100mph plus and you are in the powerband of 5th gear which in honda's is almost nonexsistant. So that is why I said that b/c I think he does not have as much knowledge about this subject as he thinks he does.

heheh, I know. After I wrote that, I realized it sounded like I was being sarcastic or something, but I'm on dialup and didn' want to take another 5798 hours to fix it, lol. Didn't mean it to sound that way though, I gotcha. I was just adding a bit more info on there for him, letting him know the best way to avoid that problem was to run engine rev safety through a spark device instead of fuel:bigthumb:

I'll humor you for a second and assume your not a complete fucktard.

How exactly does your clutch fry itself?
Also, are you saying you hit the govenor RIGHT when you hit n2o in 5th? Or is this the speed factor? If you can't max out 4th, then of COURSE you shouldn't do it in 5th, but not because it will break anything. It's because there's no point if you can't go faster then 120 computer limited. I however don't have a speed limiter.... or an rpm limiter for that matter. :D

PS for the record, 5th gear n2o @ WOT would put LESS strain on the engine and transmission parts because the RPMS are generally lower then when you spray through redline in say.. 3rd. If you still think otherwise. Please tell us why you believe this. I'd really like to know your reasoning on it.

Originally posted by Mr. Anderson
hmm.. that's interesting! Of course, that part of my answer was based on someone else suggestion from here so I just took heed of it. If you were going to use it in fifth gear, probably wouldn't be a good idea until you hit at least 4500 or 5k right? Whatta ya think?

Why else would you be in 5th gear using n2o?
Kind of stupid to even say that. When I shift from 4th into 5th racing Im already at VTEC 5400. So um. What's your point there?

Why else would you be in 5th gear using n2o?

Didn't realize you could "make a point" with a question mark and the end of a sentence?? I always thought of those as "questions"... never claimed to be pro about anything here.. just learning like most of us. Maybe one day, I'll save up and go to a school where they teach you how to be an asshole to complete strangers online who are there to learn about things they don't know about. But until then, I stick to my proud up bringing where you have respect for others, and keeping your mouth shut about people you don't know about. So maybe you can teach me something or you can try to prove your own intelligence by pointing others opinions?? ...nice to meet you!

Seriously?

Seriously?
For a guy who talks alot... your one word response proves my point!

I'll humor you for a second and assume your not a complete fucktard.

Cronic...my apologies! I thought this statement was directed at me! I'll have to retract my last comments made to you. Shit like that really gets to me. By the way... I'm looking to possibly turboing an H22 in May and was wondering what measures I should or could take to make the engine handle like 6-7psi from like a T25 or something? I know that those engines don't handle boost real well but someone said that you could resleeve the engine or something like that?? In other words... is there ANYTHING I can do to make the engine reliable with the boost or should I just forget it. When I get the engine I will be putting in aftermarket camshafts, pistons, lifters, etc... try to do alot of internal work and I'll be in the budget to do it all at once. What would you do....or anyone else for that matter!!?!?!?!?

and to add on to that.. the car will be daily driven! I don't want a rocketship but like maybe high 14's or low 15's is what I am shooting for??

You should be doing 14's with just an H22 swap! 6 PSI is safe on stock internals and cylinders mostly. Yes if you plan to do internals make sure you have it sleeved. But if you only want to run 6 PSI then I say don't bother with the internals at all. It's a waste of money. Even more of a waste of money to put that kinda money into internals and not sleeve it because you will still only be able to run 6 PSI. Also the rods aren't that great, but like I said 6 PSI is a safe range - and you might be able to pull off low 14's high 13's with 6 PSI in an H22'd accord.:bigthumb:

hmmmmm...good shit! PWMAN is there anything that I can do to increase the strength of the rods?? Is there a such things as aftermarket rods or no? And what does "resleeving" basically mean? Not real keen on internal work, but trying to learn....thanks! Would say no, no to running the 6psi boost and the 55shot of NOS or is that a bad idea?

Cronic,

Do you know anything about gear ratios? I'll take that as a no b/c if you did than you would understand what I saud about the clutch, so here ya go: 5th gear is a tall gear thus it is harder for the motor to turn it, when a sudden burst of power, such as nitrous causes, is put to the motor the clutch cannot transfere it to the tranny. When this happens the clutch slips baddly and the motor revs to the redline VERY quickly and then the rev limiter kicks in and detonation occurs and as we all know detonation will kill your motor faster than anything. And another thing you are just a newbie and there are ppl on this board who try to help ppl and keep them from being guided in the wrong direction so don't post opinions about things when ppl who know what they are talking about reply and if you feel the need to post opinions then put IMO before it so they will know that it is your opinion and that it may or may not be true.
Have a nice day :biggrin:

Originally posted by Mr. Anderson
Would say no, no to running the 6psi boost and the 55shot of NOS or is that a bad idea?

I would say no to both on the stock internals. But if you build it up no problem.

umm, lets see where do I start. The rods, you can have shotpeened and ARP bolts added but it's really not worth it. Having that done you might be able to run about 2 PSI more. Yes theres plenty of aftermarket, try looking up Eagle rods first. OK, the sleeves, the sleeves are the cylinders - the liners the pistons go up and down in. You can have them installed (can't really do it yourself unless you happen to own a machine shop) but it costs a pretty good penny.
But I would suggest not touching the internals, running 6 PSI will easily give you your goals of 14's. I would turbo though, forget the NOS. And if it ever blows just rebuild it to stock specs, the only reason it would blow is because something like the rings or bearings just wore out.

MR ANDERSON,

I would have to say that a 55shot with boost on stock internals would be a very bad thing. And the resleeving thing is because the cylinder walls on the h22a are weak when caompared to the b18 or b16 so they can break and that is why you need to resleeve if running more than a 6-7 psi and yes you can get aftermarket rods and pistons along with rings to run more boost without it comming apart. Try searching the turbo forum and there have been lots of topics about the problems involved with boosting a h22a so you might want to read that so that you will be prepared.

Originally posted by Mr. Anderson
hmmmmm...good shit! PWMAN is there anything that I can do to increase the strength of the rods?? Is there a such things as aftermarket rods or no? And what does "resleeving" basically mean? Not real keen on internal work, but trying to learn....thanks! Would say no, no to running the 6psi boost and the 55shot of NOS or is that a bad idea?

well as pwman explained yeah you can spend the money on rods and resleeving but if you're gonna start doing that kind of reinforcement.....go all the way with pistons and rebalanced crankshaft too......after yo do this you can run close to 20 psi or more depending on what gas and compresion your using......you'll be in the 12 then.....

Originally posted by whtteg
Cronic,

Do you know anything about gear ratios? I'll take that as a no b/c if you did than you would understand what I saud about the clutch, so here ya go: 5th gear is a tall gear thus it is harder for the motor to turn it, when a sudden burst of power, such as nitrous causes, is put to the motor the clutch cannot transfere it to the tranny. When this happens the clutch slips baddly and the motor revs to the redline VERY quickly and then the rev limiter kicks in and detonation occurs and as we all know detonation will kill your motor faster than anything. And another thing you are just a newbie and there are ppl on this board who try to help ppl and keep them from being guided in the wrong direction so don't post opinions about things when ppl who know what they are talking about reply and if you feel the need to post opinions then put IMO before it so they will know that it is your opinion and that it may or may not be true.
Have a nice day :biggrin:

Know anything about gear ratios? Yes.
As far as 5th being so hard to turn, how about someone running 12psi of boost? Would this too be soo horrible to shift into 5th? I do it all the time? So where's the bad stuffs? I make the power equivelant of a 100 shot. Im kinda lost as to why my engine/tranny hasn't shit all over itself yet.
I have a DX tranny btw. Go figgure with those TALLER gears.... Imagine a CX tranny... oh wait, I had one of those too.
I go through synchros alot with my added power, but NEVER over stress the clutch/motor. Your stock clutch will be able to hanlde a 55 shot. Your a retard. You spreading misinformation and I hate that.
If your clutch is slipping, DUH time to replace it, or get an upgrade.
PS. rev limiter is not just a fuel cut and you do not detonatie. I used to hit it alot. :-D
Im just a newbie? Why is it that every point your making seems to be from assumption and not from fact or even proven theory?
I may be a newbie here but Im certainly not a newbie to the FI world.
IMO: Your a fucktard.
Truth: Stock clutches are fine with a 55 shot.
Truth: It is Okay to shift into 5th and use n2o.
Truth: I run 12 psi daily and shift into 5th @ 125 mph
IMO: 140 is fun. Too bad you'll never see it.

Originally posted by Mr. Anderson


Cronic...my apologies! I thought this statement was directed at me! I'll have to retract my last comments made to you. Shit like that really gets to me. By the way... I'm looking to possibly turboing an H22 in May and was wondering what measures I should or could take to make the engine handle like 6-7psi from like a T25 or something? I know that those engines don't handle boost real well but someone said that you could resleeve the engine or something like that?? In other words... is there ANYTHING I can do to make the engine reliable with the boost or should I just forget it. When I get the engine I will be putting in aftermarket camshafts, pistons, lifters, etc... try to do alot of internal work and I'll be in the budget to do it all at once. What would you do....or anyone else for that matter!!?!?!?!?

An h22 is rather large for a t25. I would suggest going with a t3/t4 at least a .57 trim. You will be able to run 5-7psi intercooled on that motor before needed fuel/engine managment.

As Ive said before, see www.hondata.com for information reguarding their engine managment. the s200 system can both control conditions under boost, and now nitrous. ;)
I shall be upgrading mine soon and going with a 55 shot as well as 10psi
You will of course need a fuel pump and larger injectors.
Stock sleeves on an H22 are made of the same material as the B16/18 sleeves. Very sturdy. You should be making well over 300whp with tuned Hondata, 450cc injectors, 255lph fuel pump, t3/t4 .57 trim.

Originally posted by Cronic


Stock sleeves on an H22 are made of the same material as the B16/18 sleeves. Very sturdy.

They most certainly are NOT!

Originally posted by Cronic


Know anything about gear ratios? Yes.
As far as 5th being so hard to turn, how about someone running 12psi of boost? Would this too be soo horrible to shift into 5th? I do it all the time? So where's the bad stuffs? I make the power equivelant of a 100 shot. Im kinda lost as to why my engine/tranny hasn't shit all over itself yet.
I have a DX tranny btw. Go figgure with those TALLER gears.... Imagine a CX tranny... oh wait, I had one of those too.
I go through synchros alot with my added power, but NEVER over stress the clutch/motor. Your stock clutch will be able to hanlde a 55 shot. Your a retard. You spreading misinformation and I hate that.
If your clutch is slipping, DUH time to replace it, or get an upgrade.
PS. rev limiter is not just a fuel cut and you do not detonatie. I used to hit it alot. :-D
Im just a newbie? Why is it that every point your making seems to be from assumption and not from fact or even proven theory?
I may be a newbie here but Im certainly not a newbie to the FI world.
IMO: Your a fucktard.
Truth: Stock clutches are fine with a 55 shot.
Truth: It is Okay to shift into 5th and use n2o.
Truth: I run 12 psi daily and shift into 5th @ 125 mph
IMO: 140 is fun. Too bad you'll never see it.

Does your 12psi hit the motor all at once? NO! So therefore the nitrous will have a more harsh effect on the drivetrain. For someone who talks alot of $hit you sure are dumb, You cannot compare the effects of nitrous to the effects of boost. And yes your motor when hitting the rev limiter will cut fuel and the nitrous will keep flowing and YES detonation WILL OCCUR. I have been using nitrous for more than 2 years now and I know alot more than I think you do , before deciding to go with the nitrous I did more than a year of research on it and it was not the ask a person it was looking up facts.

PS 140 has been fun for me as well and without nitrous I might add, too bad you will never see it without boost.

Yes, they are made of a composite material. I don't recall the exact makeup.
The H22a sleeves are thinner then normal, but they also have a closed deck on the block which strengthens them slightly.
Ive watched 330whp from an H22a turbo accord on stock internals.
Also, Ive seen 30psi on GEM sleeves @ 512whp. ;)

PS. No need for a balanced crank. Or whatever someone was talking about earlyer.

Originally posted by Cronic
Yes, they are made of a composite material. I don't recall the exact makeup.
The H22a sleeves are thinner then normal, but they also have a closed deck on the block which strengthens them slightly.
Ive watched 330whp from an H22a turbo accord on stock internals.
Also, Ive seen 30psi on GEM sleeves @ 512whp. ;)

PS. No need for a balanced crank. Or whatever someone was talking about earlyer.

Why do companies go to the trouble of strenghtening the internals for turbo and supercharged cars if it isn't nessasry, b/c they want it to last longer than 1yr or 6months, and 330 whp from a h22a on stock internals will not last long. This guy wants a daily driver not a race purpose car so he needs to make sure he does everything right to ensure long engine life if he decides to go more boost than safe limits.

Sigh, why do you keep chiming in with shit you have no clue about, the h22a lasted 2 years before he fucking sold the car asshole. The car still runs around Tampa to the best of my knowledge.

The motor will be as reliable as you want with proper tuning, and not getting greedy with boost. My friend's GSR made 280whp on 8 psi.
The h22a held the same boost levels.

Don't reply with what you think. Only what you've seen.

Originally posted by Cronic
Yes, they are made of a composite material. I don't recall the exact makeup.
The H22a sleeves are thinner then normal, but they also have a closed deck on the block which strengthens them slightly.
Ive watched 330whp from an H22a turbo accord on stock internals.
Also, Ive seen 30psi on GEM sleeves @ 512whp. ;)

PS. No need for a balanced crank. Or whatever someone was talking about earlyer.

Wow 30 PSI on stock sleeves, that was just plain lucky. People say the B series sleeves are WAY better than H series and not to go past 14 on a B series without sleeving. Yeah a H series will handle 8 PSI like you said in your latest post, I was just saying 6-7 to be safe. Also, the JDM H22 has 10:1 compression so you can't run more than 8 PSI on pump gas with stock internals anyway. I agree with most everything you say Cronic.

Edit:you should balance the crank if you change any of the internals, I.E. connecting rods, pistons- these all change the rotating mass and will vibrate your engine to pieces if not balanced.

If the car lasted 2 yrs then it wasn't putting 330whp to the ground all the time it may have done it a couple of times but not alot, and ti sounds to me that you are full of bs, why do you get so defensive when ppl don't believe you? Is it b/c you don't know as much as you think you do? I am done argueing with you it has gone to the point that we are wasting bandwith and ppls time of life reading our posts about one another. You believe what you want and I will do what I know and that will be that .
Good day!

Originally posted by PWMAN


Wow 30 PSI on stock sleeves, that was just plain lucky. People say the B series sleeves are WAY better than H series and not to go past 14 on a B series without sleeving. Yeah a H series will handle 8 PSI like you said in your latest post, I was just saying 6-7 to be safe. Also, the JDM H22 has 10:1 compression so you can't run more than 8 PSI on pump gas with stock internals anyway. I agree with most everything you say Cronic.

Not stock sleeves! Woah. That will never happen. Talk about cracked sleeves batman!

GEM = Golden eagle manufacturing. :D the block was sleeved for 40psi

White teg: You are obviously the car God of the hour I onviously know nothing about FI and how engines work, it's always nice to be safe, and that's all you doin. Again however, if your SO worried about the clutch, get a new one.

PS: All motor it musta taken you 5 minuites to get to 140 with that massive 130whp with your elite bolt ons, like that custom cold air setup. Watch out for those puddles! ;)

Btw, when the turbo first spools up, it does take a second for me to reach full boost, However, when I shift, thanks to a wonderful invention called a blow off valve, I have ~8psi waiting for me when I shift, so it takes less then 1/2 second to reach 12 again. Got any other points that need broken in half? Think before you speak.

Also, he DID say he wanted a daily driver, not a race car. So why is it he would go above 8psi unless he wanted to race it?
Exactly.

Ohhhhhhhh, I just thought you had a typo and meant to write OEM sleeves. I gotcha now. So yes, 8 PSI on stock internals will work fine, once again I agree with you.

This is what Ive been tryin to press on you people from day 1. With proper affordable engine managment, it's possible to run 12's or even LOWER on a daily beaten car. Even on low boost, with proper tuning you can pull double the stock whp. No one seems to want to believe it's safe because they've not seen this done countless times week after week for a year.

it's literally amazing. *shrug* believe what you will. I am here but to teach. Not to enforce. I must apologise for the flames. It wasn't my intention to get flapped up.

Originally posted by Cronic
Yes, they are made of a composite material. I don't recall the exact makeup.
The H22a sleeves are thinner then normal, but they also have a closed deck on the block which strengthens them slightly.
Ive watched 330whp from an H22a turbo accord on stock internals.
Also, Ive seen 30psi on GEM sleeves @ 512whp. ;)

PS. No need for a balanced crank. Or whatever someone was talking about earlyer.


I'm sorry but your advice is flawed why....yeah if you are really good you might be able to put high boost in a stock engine if the engine is perfectly tuned...but guess what even for pros its a constant battle to tune a car....so yes you can do it but one puny mistake and those engines go kaboom....and you come here on this forum and tell other poeple that want to boost that they can safelly get 330hp out of a stock H22....now answer me this when they will blow up their engine are you going to pay for their repairs? NO......and those people are not tuner shops that can afford to rebuild their engine all the time...no they need their car.......so my advice is if you have your car as a daily driver don't tune the engine to an inch of its life...and if you want more boost reinforce the engine this way you at least have room for small errors.....because chances are that you'll not have a 100% perfect tune up....



and cronic you say that you are technically savy and call bs when i say that you need to rebalance the crankshaft when doing a complete bottom reinforcement.....i'm sorry but go back to school......even pwman agreed with me that you need to rebalace the crankshaft.....any small vibration will lead to the crank snaping and can you say bye bye engine when the rods will put holes trough your block?



and please stay away from namecalling....

Damn.. what the hell did I start up here!?!?! :dogpile: Everyone put the gloves down!!! Anyway.....in the midst of all the fighting, you guys think I could safely boost that H22a on stock internals??? I definetly wanted to change the camshaft, pistons, rings, and springs (<- I think) and ports and polish the head maybe with like a Gude throttle body? (I know big dollars! Bonus time in May again... $16k of play money) So say I wanted to dump like maybe $5k in the engine including the motor which is like $1800-$2200.. what exactly would you do or recommend to get the most out of that motor? One of my guys at work said he would sell me his T25 out of his Eclipse.. someone here said not big enough for the motor? So what should I get?? I know I'm a pain in the ass... trying to get the most opinions as possible, so wanna get my facts straight before May....

Oh yeah.. Cronic.. that Hondata site is pretty cool. What is that an all new ECU all together they install it in your existing ECU? And I also forgot to ask an important question about the H22 motor. I would assume that most of you agree in getting the JDM motor right? Lower miles, ECU programming different I believe? by most of all... should I get the 92-96 (OBD1) or the 97-01 (OBD2) motor???? Which and why?....I know someone said something about the OBD1 having a closed deck or something...let me know....you guys are da bomb!

8psi is hardly pushing the H22a to it's max. It's also no where near high boost buddy.
The crankshaft is already balanced from the factory. When you change out the rods with beefier ones, and upgrade the pistons to whatever. You certainly could balance the crank, but you'd have to balance and blueprint the whole motor for any kind of effect. Your crank will not snap from upgrading internals and leaving the crank stock. I didn't call BS. I said it wasn't needed.

Mr. Anderson: OBD1 is always easier to chip.
JDM motors are great. You will outflow that t25 after 7krpm. A t3/t4 .57 trim would be very nice for your motor, @8psi, get hondata, and tune it. Everything will be fine. You wont blow anything up. Once your car is tuned, as long as you leave it be, you wont have to tune it again.

Mr. Anderson, if you're getting aftermarket pistons then also get rods.
That DSM T25 is a piece of crap, theres are reason he wants to get rid of it! It is also too small for your application. A T3/T4 is highly recommended, much more powerful.
And yes get OBD 1.

Originally posted by Cronic
8psi is hardly pushing the H22a to it's max. It's also no where near high boost buddy.
The crankshaft is already balanced from the factory. When you change out the rods with beefier ones, and upgrade the pistons to whatever. You certainly could balance the crank, but you'd have to balance and blueprint the whole motor for any kind of effect. Your crank will not snap from upgrading internals and leaving the crank stock. I didn't call BS. I said it wasn't needed.




well IMO a proper reinforcing job will involve a complete balace and blueprint.....yeah it will cost you more but i consider that a complete job...IMO just doing your pistons and rods its a halfway
done job.......maybe i'm too picky but when it comes down to my car...only the best is acceptable


plus i've seen way too many snaped crankshafts

Strange... cuz Ive not seen one. In fact, we have a couple people that dyno here turning 9-10krpm and don't snap anything.... been doin that for a while now.

We have an LS/VTEC motor pushing 320whp @ 8900rpm. (IMHO) There is no need to balance a honda motor.

Originally posted by Cronic
Strange... cuz Ive not seen one. In fact, we have a couple people that dyno here turning 9-10krpm and don't snap anything.... been doin that for a while now.

We have an LS/VTEC motor pushing 320whp @ 8900rpm. (IMHO) There is no need to balance a honda motor.

i guess we'll have to agree to disagree(sory for the cheesy line) ...probably we just had different experiences.....but you have to agree that by blueprinting and balancing an engine you'll be making it pretty much bullet proof