Silverado 6.0 Intake R&R Help?

Getting ready to replace the failed rear knock sensor in my 2002 HD2500/6.0, have to remove the intake manifold. Job Looks fairly straight-forward, just wondering if any "gotcha's", as I am doing this at my apartment in CO. Have basic tools here, all my stuff is at my TX house. The usual idiotic $20 parts store repair manuals are worthless, (Procedure says "Remove intake manifold", without any details or diagrams).
Have read every thread on the subject that I can find on here, always much better info than Haynes, Chiltons, Clymers, etc. Will use the TSB info to build RTV dam & discard foam seal.
I have new Fel-Pro gaskets, New sensor, RTV, shop towels, Brake Cleaner. Need to go get a fuel line quick-connect tool, (have one in TX - hopefully a cheapo one will do). Have sockets, I will need a wrench for the fuel rail anchor on rear of head-driver side. Not sure what size, looks like 17/18/19 mm, (anyone know? Will probably buy a cheap throw-away set, want to make sure it has correct size). Also, do I need to drain coolant? Not a lot of experience with LSX engines, older GM V-8's have coolant passages through intake. Any other traps to watch out for, or tricks that will make the job go smoothly? Should I leave throttle body & fuel rails on intake & remove the whole assy all together?
Thanks in advance for your help, guys!
-Jim.

I can’t help with the procedure but I can tell you a subscription to alldatadiy.com for your particular truck will most likely be cheaper and more informative than the manuals you mentioned. I also like it for the fact that you always have it with you as long as you have access to the Internet. A bit of a pain if you have to print out your procedure but at least it provides the info you need.

Good luck!

I can’t help with the procedure but I can tell you a subscription to alldatadiy.com for your particular truck will most likely be cheaper and more informative than the manuals you mentioned. I also like it for the fact that you always have it with you as long as you have access to the Internet. A bit of a pain if you have to print out your procedure but at least it provides the info you need.

Good luck!

Good info on the All Data.
But The All Data DIY online subscription comes in 1 year or 3 year subscriptions.
After that it has to be renewed.
Good repair manuals or repair CD's are good as long as you have the books.

So far, so good. Thanks for the advice on the repair manuals.
As soon as I can get the Evap solenoid vapor line disconnected, things should go fairly quickly. I am guessing that vapor line uses the same type of quick-disconnect as the fuel lines,but there isn't room to get my disconnect tool in there. The line fitting coming out of the purge valve/solenoid is molded along side the body of the assy, so the there is no room for the tool to surround the nipple. Maybe I can get a small screwdriver in there to release the fitting? Any advice on this? THe manifold is loose/free, everything else is cleared except for that Evap line, which runs between the fuel rail & the manifold. It has a joint/union with a Schrader valve on it, which will twist, but doesn't appear to be able to separate there.
Thanks again, guys. -Jim.

Got the job done, went pretty smoothly. Took longer than I thought, but most of the time was spent cleaning up the gasket contact surfaces on the intake manifold and heads. StillI I gotta wonder, do those labor manuals take the cleaning into account? They allow around 1.5 hours to do this job! I say, no way, unless they are knocking a bunch of dirt into your ports, then slapping new gaskets onto crappy, filthy mating surfaces, and hoping they seal.
Another reason to DIY - Not only saving a bunch of $$, but being able to take the time to do things right. Not faulting the dealer mechanics who are under the gun to get the job out the door quickly.
Truck started right up, idles smooth, and no more Service Engine Soon light! Much more responsive, now that the P0332 code is gone, and the ignition timing is back to normal advance. Should get back to the 15MPG Hwy that it always used to get. Last week's trip to TX got 13.09 MPG. This is NOT a good time to be gettin' bad mileage!!
Only bummer about the repair, was after I got it all buttoned-up, reconnected Negative Battery Cable, turned key to On, and Gas Gauge went Full-Tilt, WAY beyond Full, to where it is pointing almost straight down! Can't imagine anything I did during this job caused that? Just bad luck, I suppose - Time to search threads on AF for my NEXT repair job, (-Sigh-), no rest for the weary!!

One more comment on the task - the entire list of tools I needed to complete the Intake R&R, and Knock Sensor replacement:

3/8" Drive ratchet
3" extension (a 6" would have been handy, & saved a bit of time for 2 of the Intake bolts).
3/8-1/4 drive adapter
8mm socket
10mm socket
1/4" straight-blade screwdriver
22mm socket (for knock sensor)
regular pliers to reach into the wells & unclip knock sensor connectors
That was it! Thank you, Chevrolet!

Oh, and I also used:
black RTV to build the "dam" around rear knock sensor cover (per the TSB, also tossed the rear foam from under mani - same TSB)
1/2 can of Gunk non-chlorinated brake cleaner
blue shop paper towels, used em to plug intake ports while cleaning lifter valley cover & around ports
(But NO thanks to the engineer who placed the knock sensors under that manifold in the first place! Put em on the side of the block where they belong, would make this 5 hour job into a 5 minute one, like it used to be!!)

i bought a GM service manual on dvdformat that required a VMware program installation on pc, a little finessing to set up printer port in virtual machine and i can print all gm service reports, repair procedures, and much more for about 30$ off ebay, liked it so much i bought a manual for every vehicle i own... very informative, quite descriptive, very pleased with it.... you might look into one for your model of vehicle, install on a laptop then if you travel you would always have it with you....

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Document ID# 753666
2002 Chevrolet Chevy K Silverado - 4WD




Intake Manifold Replacement

Removal Procedure
Important

The intake manifold, throttle body, fuel rail, and injectors may be removed as an assembly. If not servicing the individual components, remove the manifold as a complete assembly.

Remove the throttle body. Refer to Throttle Body Assembly Replacement (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1076954#ss1-753666) in Engine Controls - 4.8L, 5.3L, and 6.0L.
Remove the fuel injectors. Refer to Fuel Injector Replacement (http://www.automotiveforums.com/servlets/CellHandler?CellId=30111&RefDoc=753666&evc=sm) in Engine Controls - 4.8L, 5.3L, and 6.0L.
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Disconnect the following electrical connectors:Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor (1)
Knock sensor (2)
Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve, if equipped
Remove the knock sensor harness electrical connector from the intake manifold.
Set the electrical harness aside.
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If equipped, remove the following EGR pipe bolts:Intake manifold (1)
Cylinder head (2)
Exhaust manifold (3)
If equipped, remove the EGR pipe (with valve).
If equipped, remove the EGR pipe gasket from the exhaust manifold.
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IF equipped, remove the vacuum brake booster hose from the rear of the intake manifold.
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Remove the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose (with valve).
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Remove the MAP sensor (1) from the intake manifold.
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Remove the accelerator control cable bracket bolts (1).
Remove the accelerator control cable bracket (2) from the intake manifold.
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Remove the evaporative emission (EVAP) purge solenoid vent tube by performing the following:
Remove the EVAP tube end (2) from the solenoid (1).
Squeeze the EVAP pipe quick connect fitting (3) retainer together.
Remove the EVAP tube end (3) from the vapor pipe.

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Remove the EVAP purge solenoid bolt (2), solenoid (3), and isolator (1) from the intake manifold.
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Remove the intake manifold bolts.
Remove the intake manifold.
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Remove the intake manifold gaskets (1) from the intake manifold.
Discard the old intake manifold gaskets.
Clean the gasket surfaces of the EGR pipe and the exhaust manifold, if equipped.
Installation Procedure

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(http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1076954#ss2-753666)
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Install new intake manifold gaskets (1) to the intake manifold.
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Install the intake manifold.
Apply a 5 mm (0.20 in) band of threadlock GM U.S. P/N 12345382, Canada P/N 10953489, or equivalent to the threads of the intake manifold bolts.
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Notice

Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install the intake manifold bolts. Tighten
Tighten the intake manifold bolts a first pass in sequence to 5 N·m (44 lb in).
Tighten the intake manifold bolts a final pass in sequence to 10 N·m (89 lb in).

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Install the EVAP purge solenoid (3), isolator (1), and bolt (2) to the intake manifold. TightenTighten the EVAP purge solenoid bolt to 10 N·m (89 lb in).

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Install the EVAP purge solenoid vent tube to the solenoid (1) and vapor pipe.
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Install the accelerator control cable bracket (2) to the intake manifold.
Install the accelerator control cable bracket bolts (1). TightenTighten the accelerator control cable bracket bolts to 10 N·m (89 lb in).

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Important

Lightly coat the MAP sensor seal with clean engine oil before installing.
Install the MAP sensor (1) to the intake manifold.
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Install the PCV hose (with valve).
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Install the vacuum brake booster hose to the rear of the intake manifold, if equipped.
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If equipped, position a new EGR pipe gasket on the exhaust manifold.
If equipped, install the EGR pipe (with valve).
If equipped, install the following EGR pipe bolts until snug:Intake manifold (1)
Cylinder head (2)
Exhaust manifold (3)
If equipped, tighten the EGR pipe bolts. TightenTighten the EGR valve pipe-to-intake manifold bolts to 10 N·m (89 lb in).
Tighten the EGR valve pipe-to-cylinder head bolts to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).
Tighten the EGR valve pipe-to-exhaust manifold bolts to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
Route the electrical harness into position over the engine.
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Connect the knock sensor harness electrical connector to the intake manifold.
Connect the following electrical connectors.MAP sensor (1)
Knock sensor (2)
EGR valve, if equipped
Install the fuel injectors. Refer to Fuel Injector Replacement (http://www.automotiveforums.com/servlets/RetrieveTif?pic=679510) in Engine Controls - 4.8L, 5.3L, and 6.0L.
Install the throttle body. Refer to Throttle Body Assembly Replacement (http://www.automotiveforums.com/servlets/CellHandler?CellId=30141&RefDoc=753666&evc=sm) in Engine Controls - 4.8L, 5.3L, and 6.0L.




diagrams would not copy over sorry

hopefully you can make do with these instructions, if not email me at [email protected] and i will try to send you the info through email.

these instructions were taken from the GM service manual i mentioned i bought off ebay.. it also contains all the gm service bulletins.. and covers all chevy trucks from 1998 through present....

Just wanted to follow-up after extended time & miles, and pass along 1 more bit of advice. Truck still doing fine, but on 2 different occasions the SES light has come on, and ECM reporting the same P0332 trouble code (Bank 2 Knock Sensor). Both times were during or after driving in heavy rain. Both times the light went out on it's own after several short trips, 12-24 hours later.
When I replaced the knock sensor, I could not replace the short "pigtail" harness for the knock sensors, as they are not stocked at local parts stores, they must be special ordered a couple days ahead. Harness was looking bad, due to almost 200,000 miles in a hot, harsh environment. I didn't have time to wait, so I reused it. Terminals inside the connectors were badly tarnished, etc. Did what I could to clean them up, but I suspect that is what caused the SES light/DTC to pop up, due to moisture getting in there and causing intermittent/poor electrical connection until it dried out. So if you do this job, plan ahead and order the knock sensor harness, replace it while you have the manifold off. Other than that, I consider the job to be completely successful.
Thanks again to all the AF'ers who shared advice & info! -Jim.

in addition to using sealer around the KS did you seal the front of the upper/lower intake gap with sealer to prevent any water / dirt from getting in to the KS mounting cavity.

on my 5.3L rodents chewed up the GM oem foam material which caused these type issues. I sealed this up completely so nothing could get in .

good point on getting the sensors and connector harness to insure no future issues. most always this is the problem,,, not really the sensor itself but , corroded electrical connections. very small signal voltage don't take much resistance to affect the output.

Hello j_cAT.
I put the GM foam block back in, at the front. Tossed the rear one per the TSB. What did you use to seal off that front gap? I had thought about cutting some tin to fit, and using RTV to seal it in place. I am guessing the foam lets some water in, but hopefully not too much. The original design with foam at thefront & rear, probably did more harm than good by trapping water under the manifold, instead of letting it dry out more quickly. And it generally should not have much water entering from the rear. (Probably why the TSB said to eliminate it)? Thanks.

Hello j_cAT.
I put the GM foam block back in, at the front. Tossed the rear one per the TSB. What did you use to seal off that front gap? I had thought about cutting some tin to fit, and using RTV to seal it in place. I am guessing the foam lets some water in, but hopefully not too much. The original design with foam at thefront & rear, probably did more harm than good by trapping water under the manifold, instead of letting it dry out more quickly. And it generally should not have much water entering from the rear. (Probably why the TSB said to eliminate it)? Thanks.

my foam was all chewed up so I got some very dense foam rubber cut to fit then worked RTV into this foam all over it then placed into position . then after about an hour or so plastered a coating over the front face so this will hopefully keep the rodents out . so far 3 yrs now no rodent chewing. I also got some rat traps and have killed many so that this is less on a problem .they also like to make nest under the fuse box and chew up the wires there.

the rear being open should not be an issue since the engine has a very good slope to rear. engine washing and the soap is what causes the damage most times but operating in lots of salt /de-icing chemicals the fan will suck these in to the engine surface. also the rear being open will let out the heat trapped .