1998 GTP power problem....
chuckbattams
02-23-2012, 05:03 PM
Good evening all.... sorry to be a bother, but wife and I were on a trip shopping and the motor made a whine noise, which got worse, then the stereo went off, transmission went down one gear about 10 minutes later, then less then 10 more minutes, car died!!! Battery was dead :(
My question .... if it is the alternator, how do I test it? Before getting raked at the repair stores such as wrecking yards. Thank You in advance for the help.
My question .... if it is the alternator, how do I test it? Before getting raked at the repair stores such as wrecking yards. Thank You in advance for the help.
GTP Dad
02-23-2012, 06:45 PM
Based on your description I would say that the alternator has died and will need replaced. I would remove it and take it to a parts store where they can test it for you. Also you will need to recharge the battery before installing the new alternator and make sure that you disconnect the battery before reinstalling the new alternator as it will damage it. Once everything is reconnected to the alternator then reconnect the battery.
chuckbattams
02-23-2012, 07:05 PM
Thanks GTP dad ... I have the battery presently on trickle charge, I will put it in, in the morning. In re to Alternator, I have to take it to Canadian Tire for the test, also have the battery tested, but, being that I have no other means of transportation, is there an alternate way of testing the alternator with out having it taken out?
olopezm
02-23-2012, 09:13 PM
You can use a digital multimeter or voltmeter.
Measure DC voltage across both battery terminals and you should see around 13.8-14.6 volts at idle depending on electric load. If it's not within spec then the regulator is bad.
Also test for AC voltage and you should see 0 volts; if you see anything different to 0 then you have a problem with the alternator, diodes should be the first suspect.
Oscar.
EDIT. I don't know if there is advanced autoparts, autozone, napa, oreilly's or similar where you live, but they should be able to test your battery, alternator and starter while still installed in the car. Even SEARS might be able to
Measure DC voltage across both battery terminals and you should see around 13.8-14.6 volts at idle depending on electric load. If it's not within spec then the regulator is bad.
Also test for AC voltage and you should see 0 volts; if you see anything different to 0 then you have a problem with the alternator, diodes should be the first suspect.
Oscar.
EDIT. I don't know if there is advanced autoparts, autozone, napa, oreilly's or similar where you live, but they should be able to test your battery, alternator and starter while still installed in the car. Even SEARS might be able to
Tech II
02-23-2012, 09:17 PM
You can check it with a voltmeter......
Your battery should measure 12.6 volts......if it is ok, and charged, the car should crank over and run......with it running, and no accessories/lights on, voltage at battery should be around 14.0 volts......as the vehicle warms up and the rpms drop so will the output, 13.0-13.5 volts......now turn on a few things like a rear defogger and headlights and blower motor....could drop to 12.0-12.5 volts at idle.....bring rpms up to 2000 and the voltage should increase to 13.0 volts....
If voltage is too low, double check that the voltage coming out of the alt(big red wire), is the same voltage at the battery(if it's not, could be a bad fuseable link)....
Your battery should measure 12.6 volts......if it is ok, and charged, the car should crank over and run......with it running, and no accessories/lights on, voltage at battery should be around 14.0 volts......as the vehicle warms up and the rpms drop so will the output, 13.0-13.5 volts......now turn on a few things like a rear defogger and headlights and blower motor....could drop to 12.0-12.5 volts at idle.....bring rpms up to 2000 and the voltage should increase to 13.0 volts....
If voltage is too low, double check that the voltage coming out of the alt(big red wire), is the same voltage at the battery(if it's not, could be a bad fuseable link)....
chuckbattams
02-23-2012, 10:22 PM
Thanks olopezm & Tech II ... We do have a napa here in Brantford, so that is my destination first thing in the morning :) I'm hoping it's a simple fix, and fingers crossed that the battery did not get damaged today, took 4 boosts from other vehicles with a 10 minute charge from each to get the car back home :)
chuckbattams
02-24-2012, 09:36 AM
Well installed freshly charged battery, it shows 12.8 volts ... guess that means it is good, dunno about the 800 cold amps though. Started the car, it then shows 9.4 volts. :( Guess I need a new alternator, any suggestions on a good one that will also push my 1000 wt sub ... maybe my sub killed this one?
GTP Dad
02-24-2012, 10:14 AM
You are probably right that the sub did in the alternator. I suggest that you rewire the sub and use a 1 or 2 farad capacitor to store voltage to prevent the alternator having to try to keep up. You can get them on e-bay or at a stereo store.
chuckbattams
02-24-2012, 06:05 PM
well .... put in new alternator, reading at battery is at first 10.2 volts, then it slowly drops to 6 volts, and then starts to fluctuate from 6 to 8 volts, and quite quickly.. HELP!!!!
olopezm
02-24-2012, 08:36 PM
What brand? I've read many times from different owners having problems with alternators right out of the box.
Also did you charge the battery completely before installing the new alternator?. A battery with low charge can put a lot of stress on a new alternator.
Oscar.
Also did you charge the battery completely before installing the new alternator?. A battery with low charge can put a lot of stress on a new alternator.
Oscar.
chuckbattams
02-25-2012, 07:05 AM
Oscar;
Tech II mentioned earlier about checking fusable link wire at alternator, being that the wind is howling and its down right cold right now this morning, I will be doing that later around 10, when I'm back in the mood ;). As for the brand, I bought it at a wrecking yard, right out of a 2001 Grand Prix, and they put it on a tester, and told me it is working great, so I would say generic, looked identicle as the one that was in the car. Yes the battery was at full charge showing 12.8 volts on the meter, it was killed a few times to get home the other day, I dont think any damage was done to it?
Tech II mentioned earlier about checking fusable link wire at alternator, being that the wind is howling and its down right cold right now this morning, I will be doing that later around 10, when I'm back in the mood ;). As for the brand, I bought it at a wrecking yard, right out of a 2001 Grand Prix, and they put it on a tester, and told me it is working great, so I would say generic, looked identicle as the one that was in the car. Yes the battery was at full charge showing 12.8 volts on the meter, it was killed a few times to get home the other day, I dont think any damage was done to it?
GTP Dad
02-25-2012, 09:00 AM
Remove and clean the connections to the battery. Also, if the voltage dropped that low then the battery may be damaged. However, the alternator should take over the operations of the car once it is running. I suspect you have an issue in the wiring. Like someone said check the fusible link to the alternator is is probably blown. If it is not blown then the battery will probably need to be replaced.
chuckbattams
02-25-2012, 07:20 PM
I will like to take this time out to Thank everybody who gave me direction to solve my problem. It was the fusable link, easy fix, now I'm back on the road. THANK YOU very much.
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