Trumpeter GT40
Sonomaturn2
02-12-2012, 02:47 PM
A race program born out of resentment. And a $20 million resentment in the 1960's no less!
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_4051.jpg
Greetings! I've already been working on this for a while and finally decided to create a post. My goal is to use most of the kit but add a few things mainly from styrene and turned/ machined metal. I've read quite a few reviews and critiques of Trumpeter's kit. I agree with some of the criticisms but also totally disagree with others. I'll explain later.
And a one, and a two......
I removed all the parts from their sprues and grouped them based on their location on the car. Yes, there's a ton of parts that needed, in my opinion, the chrome finish removed. This was one of first things I did. I then assembled the whole model using thinned white glue, dismantled and soaked all parts in warm soapy water. This really helped me decided where and how much detail I wanted to add.
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_4052.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_4052.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_6553.jpg
From the get go, I knew I wanted the front clip to clam-shell. Before I started modifying anything, I sat down and drew some ideas on paper and decided on a plan of attack. I discovered the most important thing was to identify where it would pivot. I put the tires/ wheels on and located where everything would attach. The challenge is the pitch of the nose. Too far back, the nose will bottom out before the clip is all the way open.
The black, inner walls assemble underneath-
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8252.jpg
I made catches from styrene and attached them at the front of each piece then test fit each one temporarily installed. Each one had to be sanded down to match the curved profile of the nose bottom.
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8256.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8253.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8250.jpg
Then, I marked where to drill holes so rod could be inserted underneath the location of where the radiator will go-
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8249.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8236.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8246.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8237.jpg
Next, on to the rear clip, errr, the bonnet, I guess...... After test fitting, I realized I needed to pull out the hair dryer-
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_6562.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_6561.jpg
The problem is it doesn't want to sit very well. This was probably my biggest issue with this kit. I didn't like the fact it didn't sit flush and there isn't anything that it clasps to like on the real car. The kit latches are a part of the chrome tree, they're glued to the bonnet. I decided to machine latches from aluminum and kill to birds with one stone.
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_6569.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_6568.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_6570.jpg
The latch bases were made from brass. The latch and base were connected using music wire soldered in place. Also, the rear was modified so there was room for the base to be attached.
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8225.jpg
Lots of test fitting, many choice words, about 40 bullets bitten and...........
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8231.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8230.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8229.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8234.jpg
Latches catch music wire now embedded in the body all around. Also, fully open-
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8244.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8223.jpg
Cheers for now- thanks for taking a look!
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_4051.jpg
Greetings! I've already been working on this for a while and finally decided to create a post. My goal is to use most of the kit but add a few things mainly from styrene and turned/ machined metal. I've read quite a few reviews and critiques of Trumpeter's kit. I agree with some of the criticisms but also totally disagree with others. I'll explain later.
And a one, and a two......
I removed all the parts from their sprues and grouped them based on their location on the car. Yes, there's a ton of parts that needed, in my opinion, the chrome finish removed. This was one of first things I did. I then assembled the whole model using thinned white glue, dismantled and soaked all parts in warm soapy water. This really helped me decided where and how much detail I wanted to add.
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_4052.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_4052.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_6553.jpg
From the get go, I knew I wanted the front clip to clam-shell. Before I started modifying anything, I sat down and drew some ideas on paper and decided on a plan of attack. I discovered the most important thing was to identify where it would pivot. I put the tires/ wheels on and located where everything would attach. The challenge is the pitch of the nose. Too far back, the nose will bottom out before the clip is all the way open.
The black, inner walls assemble underneath-
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8252.jpg
I made catches from styrene and attached them at the front of each piece then test fit each one temporarily installed. Each one had to be sanded down to match the curved profile of the nose bottom.
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8256.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8253.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8250.jpg
Then, I marked where to drill holes so rod could be inserted underneath the location of where the radiator will go-
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8249.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8236.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8246.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8237.jpg
Next, on to the rear clip, errr, the bonnet, I guess...... After test fitting, I realized I needed to pull out the hair dryer-
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_6562.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_6561.jpg
The problem is it doesn't want to sit very well. This was probably my biggest issue with this kit. I didn't like the fact it didn't sit flush and there isn't anything that it clasps to like on the real car. The kit latches are a part of the chrome tree, they're glued to the bonnet. I decided to machine latches from aluminum and kill to birds with one stone.
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_6569.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_6568.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_6570.jpg
The latch bases were made from brass. The latch and base were connected using music wire soldered in place. Also, the rear was modified so there was room for the base to be attached.
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8225.jpg
Lots of test fitting, many choice words, about 40 bullets bitten and...........
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8231.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8230.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8229.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8234.jpg
Latches catch music wire now embedded in the body all around. Also, fully open-
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8244.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8223.jpg
Cheers for now- thanks for taking a look!
nostalgicrally
02-13-2012, 02:13 AM
Very beautiful kit which we can modify to be even more complete. I admire the care, the cleanliness and the arrangement of your work plan.
Good assembly to you, I am you in your work
Eric
Good assembly to you, I am you in your work
Eric
MerlinPro
02-13-2012, 10:53 AM
A very excellent start to this build. I completed mine last year and agree about the problems you're addressing.
I'm not a scale machinist as you so my solutions are far more humble. I scratchbuilt much of the rear suspension to get a better look. I added details where visible. I did not solve the clamshell as you did so attached it shut. The oil hatch is open-able and detailed within.
If it's any help to you here's my WIP. Hope you find it useful: :
http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=34339&hl=%2Btrumpeter+%2Bgt-40+%2Bwip&fromsearch=1
I paid particular attention to the ride height, cockpit, engine bay and finish. I found great reference to be a huge help.
If I do another, I would shim the rear clip bottom edges with .010" stock to get a better shut line-your latches are great but I don't have that talent. A warning about pre-fitting: I found that when the cockpit tub was installed, and the roof section pressed over it, the mating line at the sill was difficult to get flush. I think another solution to the fit of the rear clip is to remove material from the inner upper edge where the clip rests on the roof tab-allowing the lower edges to seat more flush. General fit elsewhere on mine was good. Since completion, I've made small refinements such as replacing the clip hold down lanyards with .006" wire and small paint touch ups.
Look forward to your progress and solutions-I just may do another 'better' one...:uhoh:
I'm not a scale machinist as you so my solutions are far more humble. I scratchbuilt much of the rear suspension to get a better look. I added details where visible. I did not solve the clamshell as you did so attached it shut. The oil hatch is open-able and detailed within.
If it's any help to you here's my WIP. Hope you find it useful: :
http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=34339&hl=%2Btrumpeter+%2Bgt-40+%2Bwip&fromsearch=1
I paid particular attention to the ride height, cockpit, engine bay and finish. I found great reference to be a huge help.
If I do another, I would shim the rear clip bottom edges with .010" stock to get a better shut line-your latches are great but I don't have that talent. A warning about pre-fitting: I found that when the cockpit tub was installed, and the roof section pressed over it, the mating line at the sill was difficult to get flush. I think another solution to the fit of the rear clip is to remove material from the inner upper edge where the clip rests on the roof tab-allowing the lower edges to seat more flush. General fit elsewhere on mine was good. Since completion, I've made small refinements such as replacing the clip hold down lanyards with .006" wire and small paint touch ups.
Look forward to your progress and solutions-I just may do another 'better' one...:uhoh:
ianc911
02-13-2012, 12:49 PM
Interesting car and what looks to be an inspiring build. I'll be following this one,
ianc
ianc
sebasoakley
02-13-2012, 03:50 PM
Excelent built program..
puffyrs
02-13-2012, 05:18 PM
I will be watching.
Nice work shop.
Nice work shop.
Sonomaturn2
02-13-2012, 06:46 PM
Thanks to all for your replies. Sorry about the pics! I now know what to do to correct the issue.
Merlin, I've read and used your article frequently as a point of ref. so, many thanks for pointing out these other potential hazards. I did a lot of research so far including previous builds, like yours, by other modelers and forums for the real GT40's. I've had the pleasure of seeing and hearing a few of these beautiful race cars up close including the one at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway Museum. I'm glad Trumpeter made the investment to bring this kit to us in 1/12 scale.
I'll try to have more posted this weekend. Again, thanks everyone for taking the time to send your kind words.
John
Merlin, I've read and used your article frequently as a point of ref. so, many thanks for pointing out these other potential hazards. I did a lot of research so far including previous builds, like yours, by other modelers and forums for the real GT40's. I've had the pleasure of seeing and hearing a few of these beautiful race cars up close including the one at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway Museum. I'm glad Trumpeter made the investment to bring this kit to us in 1/12 scale.
I'll try to have more posted this weekend. Again, thanks everyone for taking the time to send your kind words.
John
Maysula
02-14-2012, 08:56 AM
This will be intresting ! I did the #5 LeMans car last year, but will do another version later. Wich version are you going to do ?
Thomas
Thomas
nugundam93
02-14-2012, 11:13 AM
nice build so far! :)
and those tools and paints all laid out neatly...wow. :D
and those tools and paints all laid out neatly...wow. :D
Sonomaturn2
02-15-2012, 06:11 PM
Thanks Guys. I'm going with the kit version, at least, for now. I like the #5 and #1 option decals available but there's something about the black with those gold toned rims that really appeals to me. This may change........
MerlinPro
02-15-2012, 06:37 PM
Thanks Guys. I'm going with the kit version, at least, for now. I like the #5 and #1 option decals available but there's something about the black with those gold toned rims that really appeals to me. This may change........
Be advised that if you're striving for accuracy, those other numbered chassis have some differences to what you get from Trump. Fuel pumps and cockpit details are examples. Get good reference for the exact car you're modeling and scratchbuild what's different.
Yes, 1046 looks great in black but the restoration changed a few things from the '66 LeMans configuration-like the roll cage came after, at Daytona.
Be advised that if you're striving for accuracy, those other numbered chassis have some differences to what you get from Trump. Fuel pumps and cockpit details are examples. Get good reference for the exact car you're modeling and scratchbuild what's different.
Yes, 1046 looks great in black but the restoration changed a few things from the '66 LeMans configuration-like the roll cage came after, at Daytona.
MerlinPro
02-17-2012, 09:01 AM
Sonoma,
Thinking back on my build, another area for caution is the fit of the rear clip after the inner arch panel is bonded to it. It will either spread or pull the clip in tighter, changing it's shape.
If you haven't gotten to that point yet-trial fit the clip in place after the arch is white-glued and firmly clamped together.
Then check to see if your clamps still give a tight shut line.
Good luck.
Thinking back on my build, another area for caution is the fit of the rear clip after the inner arch panel is bonded to it. It will either spread or pull the clip in tighter, changing it's shape.
If you haven't gotten to that point yet-trial fit the clip in place after the arch is white-glued and firmly clamped together.
Then check to see if your clamps still give a tight shut line.
Good luck.
Sonomaturn2
02-17-2012, 11:10 PM
Sonoma,
Thinking back on my build, another area for caution is the fit of the rear clip after the inner arch panel is bonded to it. It will either spread or pull the clip in tighter, changing it's shape.
If you haven't gotten to that point yet-trial fit the clip in place after the arch is white-glued and firmly clamped together.
Then check to see if your clamps still give a tight shut line.
Good luck.
Thanks again, Merlin. Actually, the inner arch is fitted in the photos posted. I spent some time beefy up the outer edges with styrene after I rounded the rear clip with the hair dryer.
Thinking back on my build, another area for caution is the fit of the rear clip after the inner arch panel is bonded to it. It will either spread or pull the clip in tighter, changing it's shape.
If you haven't gotten to that point yet-trial fit the clip in place after the arch is white-glued and firmly clamped together.
Then check to see if your clamps still give a tight shut line.
Good luck.
Thanks again, Merlin. Actually, the inner arch is fitted in the photos posted. I spent some time beefy up the outer edges with styrene after I rounded the rear clip with the hair dryer.
John18d
02-18-2012, 07:19 AM
Yeah! I'm in on watching this build - I have one in the stash - John
Eric Cole
02-18-2012, 08:54 AM
This is on my list to build this year also. I like how yours is coming together. I love the body latches, great job.
f40
02-20-2012, 08:23 AM
Are you going to use the kit tires? Icon modelers makes some nice tires in resin for this kit that are more accurate and much more better looking than the kits tires
5spdstang
02-20-2012, 05:25 PM
.........Speechless
MerlinPro
03-05-2012, 02:54 PM
A hopeful update?
Sonomaturn2
03-09-2012, 03:33 PM
Hey everyone, finally have some things to post.
To answer f40, I'm so glad you asked the question. I completely forgot these were going to be available. I'm seriously considering replacing the tires, although I'm concerned about real rubber vs. trying to achieve the appearance of real rubber. No matter what, I will be including the spare wheel in the boot.
First off a few pictures I forgot to include originally. The mock up of the latches:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_7808.jpg
Also, these were done a while back and haven't decided if I'll use them on the base of the oil coolers:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_4056.jpg
This next section deals with another area I wanted to get done sooner than later for test fitting purposes.
The rear suspension pieces- I didn't like the scale appearance:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_4059.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_4057.jpg
I wanted something closer to this without stretching me too far out of my comfort zone:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8357.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8315.jpg
First, I made a simple jig so I could, when in doubt, check my work:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8304.jpg
Now, I've never done rod ends before, so take it easy on me. I used this tool for the first time, a radii cutter, and it worked really well. It took few trial and error seesions but I becoame more confident:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8301.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_6544.jpg
These were flattened using a divider head making sure the top and bottom were parralel:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8319.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8318.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8320.jpg
Then, using the lathe, I was able to turn down the bolt side and create a little more that tear drop shape:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8321.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8322.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8325.jpg
By the way, these weren't used- they were too big. So I did it again! Ha Ha! Next, locking nuts (everything is simulated, not threaded):
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8336.jpg
One of the rods:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8334.jpg
Time to see if they fit. Some let downs for me, but all in all, I was satisfied:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8340.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8343.jpg
I thought long and hard about how I was going to make the suspension brackets and decided to use my rotary table. Both were done at the same time:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8346.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8350.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8351.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8355.jpg
And, test fitted. I still needed to file and sand after this picture to get the overall shape I wanted:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8359.jpg
Here some pictures of how I did the sway bar. With 3/32 tubing, I used the kit part as a template. First, I inserted 1/16 tubing into the 3/32 tubing trying to aleviate any kinks. Also, a $4.00 purchase at the hobby shop procurred those non kink, bending tools (springs):
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8361.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8362.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8363.jpg
Of course, I had to test fit and see how it looked. I'm not happy with the appearance of the sway bar- too big in my opinion. I'm going to do it again using smaller diameter tubing:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8364.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8368.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8369.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8371.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8370.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8366.jpg
And, with everything bundled up:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8373.jpg
That's it for now, folks.
Did somebody say Stewart Warner?
To answer f40, I'm so glad you asked the question. I completely forgot these were going to be available. I'm seriously considering replacing the tires, although I'm concerned about real rubber vs. trying to achieve the appearance of real rubber. No matter what, I will be including the spare wheel in the boot.
First off a few pictures I forgot to include originally. The mock up of the latches:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_7808.jpg
Also, these were done a while back and haven't decided if I'll use them on the base of the oil coolers:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_4056.jpg
This next section deals with another area I wanted to get done sooner than later for test fitting purposes.
The rear suspension pieces- I didn't like the scale appearance:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_4059.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_4057.jpg
I wanted something closer to this without stretching me too far out of my comfort zone:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8357.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8315.jpg
First, I made a simple jig so I could, when in doubt, check my work:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8304.jpg
Now, I've never done rod ends before, so take it easy on me. I used this tool for the first time, a radii cutter, and it worked really well. It took few trial and error seesions but I becoame more confident:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8301.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_6544.jpg
These were flattened using a divider head making sure the top and bottom were parralel:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8319.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8318.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8320.jpg
Then, using the lathe, I was able to turn down the bolt side and create a little more that tear drop shape:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8321.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8322.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8325.jpg
By the way, these weren't used- they were too big. So I did it again! Ha Ha! Next, locking nuts (everything is simulated, not threaded):
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8336.jpg
One of the rods:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8334.jpg
Time to see if they fit. Some let downs for me, but all in all, I was satisfied:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8340.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8343.jpg
I thought long and hard about how I was going to make the suspension brackets and decided to use my rotary table. Both were done at the same time:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8346.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8350.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8351.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8355.jpg
And, test fitted. I still needed to file and sand after this picture to get the overall shape I wanted:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8359.jpg
Here some pictures of how I did the sway bar. With 3/32 tubing, I used the kit part as a template. First, I inserted 1/16 tubing into the 3/32 tubing trying to aleviate any kinks. Also, a $4.00 purchase at the hobby shop procurred those non kink, bending tools (springs):
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8361.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8362.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8363.jpg
Of course, I had to test fit and see how it looked. I'm not happy with the appearance of the sway bar- too big in my opinion. I'm going to do it again using smaller diameter tubing:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8364.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8368.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8369.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8371.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8370.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8366.jpg
And, with everything bundled up:
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/March%209/100_8373.jpg
That's it for now, folks.
Did somebody say Stewart Warner?
cinqster
03-09-2012, 05:25 PM
Nice work...you can't have too many lathe photos in a thread IMHO! :)
Have you ever tried grinding your own cutting tools? I've often wondered how after-market model ball joints are produced. Came to the conclusion that they must use a tool with a stepped semicircular cut-out (bit like the profile of your 2nd suspension bracket photo) that does it in one cutting operation? Plan to have a go at making one, sometime!
Have you ever tried grinding your own cutting tools? I've often wondered how after-market model ball joints are produced. Came to the conclusion that they must use a tool with a stepped semicircular cut-out (bit like the profile of your 2nd suspension bracket photo) that does it in one cutting operation? Plan to have a go at making one, sometime!
puffyrs
03-10-2012, 04:56 PM
Great modeling.
Keep the photos coming.
Keep the photos coming.
Sonomaturn2
03-11-2012, 01:09 PM
Thanks to all.
I'm convinced they're using CNC. I have made my own cutting tools and, as I progress in this hobby, I'm sure I'll make some specialized tools depending on what I'm doing.
I'm convinced they're using CNC. I have made my own cutting tools and, as I progress in this hobby, I'm sure I'll make some specialized tools depending on what I'm doing.
f40
03-13-2012, 03:04 PM
That is some great work.Some very nice machining going on there.This will be a beauty when its finished.
da_ashman
03-13-2012, 06:31 PM
Stunning work so far! very brake re making the suspension, but man does it look better! This is gonna be the best GT40 around!!!
Greg23
03-14-2012, 08:54 AM
It's a shame to hide all that work under the bonnet.
nugundam93
03-14-2012, 11:36 AM
It's a shame to hide all that work under the bonnet.
ditto.
maybe you have plans of making a clear back half instead? :)
ditto.
maybe you have plans of making a clear back half instead? :)
Sonomaturn2
08-29-2012, 11:58 PM
Finally, more progress. Phew! Life on life's terms!
I will be modeling this car with 3 fuel pumps on the driver's side not sandwiched between the cockpit and engine compartment per photos I've seen. I used the kit parts for mock up. I found that I didn't need to modify anything for fit- they're inward enough and will not hit the hatch and cooling vent.
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8506_00.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8501_00.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8500_00.jpg
With shell closed-
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8504_00.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8502_00.jpg
I made new fuel pumps from brass and aluminum turned and machined. They're attached to sheet aluminum with holes punched out. I used a punch set and sheet styrene for hex bolts painted Citadel Bolt Gun Metal.
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8556.jpg
Here's a jig I made for the clasp on the pump bottoms.
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8551.jpg
Test fitted.
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8554.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8553.jpg
I purchased replacement tires from Icon Automotive Miniatures and they're excellent. I made the decision to model this car with the spare tire up front but didn't quite know how I was going to do it. I thought about different solutions because I knew the width of the tire would be an issue- the shell wouldn't be able to close all the way.
Crappy picture but hopefully you can see it's too tall.
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_9040.jpg
I found reference pictures that showed the spare to be thinner. I removed 2 tread rows and glued the tire wall back on, attatched it to my lathe and filed. Also, I decreased the depth of the radiator and radiator shroud and I think it will work.
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_9039.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_9042.jpg
Tested
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_9044.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_9043.jpg
It cleared!
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_9046.jpg
I will be modeling this car with 3 fuel pumps on the driver's side not sandwiched between the cockpit and engine compartment per photos I've seen. I used the kit parts for mock up. I found that I didn't need to modify anything for fit- they're inward enough and will not hit the hatch and cooling vent.
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8506_00.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8501_00.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8500_00.jpg
With shell closed-
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8504_00.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8502_00.jpg
I made new fuel pumps from brass and aluminum turned and machined. They're attached to sheet aluminum with holes punched out. I used a punch set and sheet styrene for hex bolts painted Citadel Bolt Gun Metal.
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8556.jpg
Here's a jig I made for the clasp on the pump bottoms.
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8551.jpg
Test fitted.
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8554.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_8553.jpg
I purchased replacement tires from Icon Automotive Miniatures and they're excellent. I made the decision to model this car with the spare tire up front but didn't quite know how I was going to do it. I thought about different solutions because I knew the width of the tire would be an issue- the shell wouldn't be able to close all the way.
Crappy picture but hopefully you can see it's too tall.
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_9040.jpg
I found reference pictures that showed the spare to be thinner. I removed 2 tread rows and glued the tire wall back on, attatched it to my lathe and filed. Also, I decreased the depth of the radiator and radiator shroud and I think it will work.
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_9039.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_9042.jpg
Tested
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_9044.jpg
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_9043.jpg
It cleared!
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/Sonomaturn2/100_9046.jpg
John18d
08-30-2012, 04:02 AM
Your skill at fabricating the various parts are amazing - I am in awe - John
Maranello1977
08-30-2012, 04:12 AM
A spectacular job. Seeing these things makes me want to leave the models and go to the park to fly kites. The lathe and milling tabajo very good, recently I bought a lathe and I'm a little green, so I will follow closely.
Greetings.
Saul.
Greetings.
Saul.
Eric Cole
08-30-2012, 08:06 AM
Wow... You're making me want to go "back to the drawing board" with mine.
Great job on all the machining.
Great job on all the machining.
MerlinPro
08-30-2012, 09:07 AM
Beautiful job. Your only 'mistake' is that the pumps are not on "...the driver's side".:nono:
ianc911
08-30-2012, 12:21 PM
Those pumps are outrageously tasty!
ianc
ianc
Sonomaturn2
08-30-2012, 10:51 PM
Thanks everyone for your feedback!
Merlin- LOL!
Eric- It's funny you say that because I thought the same thing about what you've been doing with your project. Example- I've reconsidered what I was going to do with the seats after seeing your approach. Too cool.
Next, I'll be focusing on painting all the body parts- I absolutely have to paint something.
I think there was a lot of hype, that some people set the bar real high for this kit even before it hit the shelves and then were disappointed. Aside from the tires and a few other things, I think this is a very good kit. For example, I plan on using the hoses, hose fittings, etc. For the money, there is a ton of items included in this kit. I hope Trumpeter isn't discouraged from producing more 1/12 race car models.
Hey Trumpeter, how about a 1/12 Porsche 956/ 962?
Merlin- LOL!
Eric- It's funny you say that because I thought the same thing about what you've been doing with your project. Example- I've reconsidered what I was going to do with the seats after seeing your approach. Too cool.
Next, I'll be focusing on painting all the body parts- I absolutely have to paint something.
I think there was a lot of hype, that some people set the bar real high for this kit even before it hit the shelves and then were disappointed. Aside from the tires and a few other things, I think this is a very good kit. For example, I plan on using the hoses, hose fittings, etc. For the money, there is a ton of items included in this kit. I hope Trumpeter isn't discouraged from producing more 1/12 race car models.
Hey Trumpeter, how about a 1/12 Porsche 956/ 962?
Eric Cole
08-31-2012, 08:07 AM
I think there was a lot of hype, that some people set the bar real high for this kit even before it hit the shelves and then were disappointed. Aside from the tires and a few other things, I think this is a very good kit. For example, I plan on using the hoses, hose fittings, etc. For the money, there is a ton of items included in this kit. I hope Trumpeter isn't discouraged from producing more 1/12 race car models.
Hey Trumpeter, how about a 1/12 Porsche 956/ 962?
I agree. The further I get into my kit the more I find that I like about it but I also find more I would like to change. However... if Trump made another 1/12th scaler I would consider it, depending on subject matter of course.
I got the silver on mine last night but no time for pics as it was after mid-night when I turned off the paint booth.
Hey Trumpeter, how about a 1/12 Porsche 956/ 962?
I agree. The further I get into my kit the more I find that I like about it but I also find more I would like to change. However... if Trump made another 1/12th scaler I would consider it, depending on subject matter of course.
I got the silver on mine last night but no time for pics as it was after mid-night when I turned off the paint booth.
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