1/8 Porsche 935/78 'Moby Dick'
Niro750
02-28-2016, 04:16 PM
I could only dream of making something close to this. Amazing work
ScratchBuilt
02-29-2016, 02:28 PM
Hello again,
Things seem to be working tonight - here are the latest photos.
First up: steering column adjusted for length, and top mounting fixed to upper bulkhead. There's a similar bush on the other side of the panel, so the top of the column is held quite securely at the right angle:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby929_zpshxbyxexi.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby929_zpshxbyxexi.jpg.html)
Next, early stages of the steering column surround. Usual mix of styrene sheet and box-section, with greenstuff added later to smooth it all off:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby930_zpskwcqwmir.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby930_zpskwcqwmir.jpg.html)
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby931_zps7c5wjvwl.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby931_zps7c5wjvwl.jpg.html)
In this third shot I've added the mounting bracket to the back which bolts under the instrument panel, some thin strip detailing around the middle where the two halves of the shroud meet, and the corners have all been rounded off:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby932_zpsdgcitnfp.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby932_zpsdgcitnfp.jpg.html)
Here are the two master-cylinder reservoirs (approx. 9.5mm dia), with caps:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby933_zpsw5po76jk.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby933_zpsw5po76jk.jpg.html)
Reservoir mounting bracket in place (with 'Wave' hex-nut detailing). Below, note the lower support for the steering column:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby934_zps6sv7y3nu.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby934_zps6sv7y3nu.jpg.html)
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby935_zpsp3xel0t6.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby935_zpsp3xel0t6.jpg.html)
...and to finish tonight - Nuts!
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby936_zpsz0ik4pfu.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby936_zpsz0ik4pfu.jpg.html)
Hope to have another update for you this weekend.
SB
Things seem to be working tonight - here are the latest photos.
First up: steering column adjusted for length, and top mounting fixed to upper bulkhead. There's a similar bush on the other side of the panel, so the top of the column is held quite securely at the right angle:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby929_zpshxbyxexi.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby929_zpshxbyxexi.jpg.html)
Next, early stages of the steering column surround. Usual mix of styrene sheet and box-section, with greenstuff added later to smooth it all off:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby930_zpskwcqwmir.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby930_zpskwcqwmir.jpg.html)
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby931_zps7c5wjvwl.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby931_zps7c5wjvwl.jpg.html)
In this third shot I've added the mounting bracket to the back which bolts under the instrument panel, some thin strip detailing around the middle where the two halves of the shroud meet, and the corners have all been rounded off:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby932_zpsdgcitnfp.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby932_zpsdgcitnfp.jpg.html)
Here are the two master-cylinder reservoirs (approx. 9.5mm dia), with caps:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby933_zpsw5po76jk.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby933_zpsw5po76jk.jpg.html)
Reservoir mounting bracket in place (with 'Wave' hex-nut detailing). Below, note the lower support for the steering column:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby934_zps6sv7y3nu.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby934_zps6sv7y3nu.jpg.html)
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby935_zpsp3xel0t6.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby935_zpsp3xel0t6.jpg.html)
...and to finish tonight - Nuts!
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby936_zpsz0ik4pfu.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby936_zpsz0ik4pfu.jpg.html)
Hope to have another update for you this weekend.
SB
88Porsche944
02-29-2016, 07:15 PM
SB,
Outstanding work!
Trevor
Outstanding work!
Trevor
ScratchBuilt
03-13-2016, 02:24 PM
Hello again,
Since the last update I've been continuing to work under the (front) bonnet - trying to add more detail and fill the available space. Not so many photos tonight, but lots of work!
First, here's the washer reservoir and pump. The reservoir is a core of box-section, with thick top plates added to cap it off and allow me to round-off the edges. There's a mounting bracket on the back you'll see later. I'm particularly pleased with the cap - a simple detail, but the little piece of tube used to create the hinge brings it to life, I think.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby938_zpsptcgomez.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby938_zpsptcgomez.jpg.html)
You can also see two L-shaped pieces of styrene added either side of the steering column - I'm scouring all my reference photos to find little features like this which will liven-up the fibreglass panels. The two T-shaped details are the starting point for some filler-work. Finally for this photo, I've added a styrene lip around the channel for the steering column - two layers of 0.4mm strip.
Next up, I've also made the oil catch-tank. It just needs a few thin strips wrapped around the middle, and it's done:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby939_zpsu56qqtls.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby939_zpsu56qqtls.jpg.html)
The brackets at each corner locate the tank, but there's also a spigot underneath which plugs into the base. The two rings ahead of the tank are where the brake lines from the master-cylinders will be fed through to connect to the reservoirs above. Also in this photo you can see the mounting bracket for the washer bottle.
Next, I've added some more detailing to the oil tank. The filler cap has an outer edge of about thirty-four pieces of 0.4mm strip, which wasn't a five-minute job to apply! The other small 'turret' will eventually connect to the crank-case breather line, and the final connection on top is to the catch-tank as shown. I'll probably adjust the position of the breather connection, as the catch-tank pipe has been re-routed to give more clearance under the bonnet.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby941_zpsucaqrtg2.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby941_zpsucaqrtg2.jpg.html)
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby940_zpsrujpsjua.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby940_zpsrujpsjua.jpg.html)
You can also see in these last three photos where I've added several layers of 'Plasto' filler over the two T-pieces noted earlier. There's a few more 'lumps and bumps' I want to add before calling the bulkhead panel finished, too.
So, the project continues. The 'to-do' list doesn't seem to get any shorter, though - I think I keep adding new things faster than I cross-off old ones!
Have a good week,
SB
Since the last update I've been continuing to work under the (front) bonnet - trying to add more detail and fill the available space. Not so many photos tonight, but lots of work!
First, here's the washer reservoir and pump. The reservoir is a core of box-section, with thick top plates added to cap it off and allow me to round-off the edges. There's a mounting bracket on the back you'll see later. I'm particularly pleased with the cap - a simple detail, but the little piece of tube used to create the hinge brings it to life, I think.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby938_zpsptcgomez.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby938_zpsptcgomez.jpg.html)
You can also see two L-shaped pieces of styrene added either side of the steering column - I'm scouring all my reference photos to find little features like this which will liven-up the fibreglass panels. The two T-shaped details are the starting point for some filler-work. Finally for this photo, I've added a styrene lip around the channel for the steering column - two layers of 0.4mm strip.
Next up, I've also made the oil catch-tank. It just needs a few thin strips wrapped around the middle, and it's done:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby939_zpsu56qqtls.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby939_zpsu56qqtls.jpg.html)
The brackets at each corner locate the tank, but there's also a spigot underneath which plugs into the base. The two rings ahead of the tank are where the brake lines from the master-cylinders will be fed through to connect to the reservoirs above. Also in this photo you can see the mounting bracket for the washer bottle.
Next, I've added some more detailing to the oil tank. The filler cap has an outer edge of about thirty-four pieces of 0.4mm strip, which wasn't a five-minute job to apply! The other small 'turret' will eventually connect to the crank-case breather line, and the final connection on top is to the catch-tank as shown. I'll probably adjust the position of the breather connection, as the catch-tank pipe has been re-routed to give more clearance under the bonnet.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby941_zpsucaqrtg2.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby941_zpsucaqrtg2.jpg.html)
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby940_zpsrujpsjua.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby940_zpsrujpsjua.jpg.html)
You can also see in these last three photos where I've added several layers of 'Plasto' filler over the two T-pieces noted earlier. There's a few more 'lumps and bumps' I want to add before calling the bulkhead panel finished, too.
So, the project continues. The 'to-do' list doesn't seem to get any shorter, though - I think I keep adding new things faster than I cross-off old ones!
Have a good week,
SB
indy1977tx
03-13-2016, 03:18 PM
You may not see the light at the end of the tunnel but the this beast is really coming together nicely. I can really see great progress, very impressive and awe inspiring building, SB.
Jordan
Jordan
lovegt40
03-13-2016, 03:39 PM
amazing work SB. Your post are always masterpieces of modelling school.
nugundam93
03-13-2016, 04:02 PM
Wow. your work never fails to amaze!
da_ashman
03-13-2016, 07:33 PM
stunning scratchbuilding as per usual!!!
John18d
03-13-2016, 11:39 PM
WOW SB words escape me !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Your attention to details and ability to build this work of art from raw styrene some aluminum tubing some wire and your infamous green-stuff is simply jaw dropping.
Cheers again on another excellent installment to your thread.
John
Your attention to details and ability to build this work of art from raw styrene some aluminum tubing some wire and your infamous green-stuff is simply jaw dropping.
Cheers again on another excellent installment to your thread.
John
puffyrs
03-14-2016, 02:22 PM
As always lost for words.
ScanmanDan
04-02-2016, 07:26 PM
Super fun and informative watching your progress SB.
I was wondering a bit about your methods. Do you do sketches of your parts before you begin or do you do much of your work by eye? ( scale & position ) I wonder how you get things to line up so well without the trouble of rebuilding parts that are just a touch off, both in size and location. I have been taking your method of sub assemblies and repeated dry fitting much to hart on my recent builds to great effect but I still find I get myself into jams where I run out of space or sub assemblies just don't all fit into the required area. Your builds require not only multiple assembles fitting properly together but they also need to fit inside the fixed frame and envelope of the body.
Any words of advise?
Thanks
Dan
I was wondering a bit about your methods. Do you do sketches of your parts before you begin or do you do much of your work by eye? ( scale & position ) I wonder how you get things to line up so well without the trouble of rebuilding parts that are just a touch off, both in size and location. I have been taking your method of sub assemblies and repeated dry fitting much to hart on my recent builds to great effect but I still find I get myself into jams where I run out of space or sub assemblies just don't all fit into the required area. Your builds require not only multiple assembles fitting properly together but they also need to fit inside the fixed frame and envelope of the body.
Any words of advise?
Thanks
Dan
ScratchBuilt
04-03-2016, 10:40 AM
Hello everyone,
I'll start this update by trying to answer Dan's question. This particular project has been more complicated than any of the others, simply because of the lack of hard info and measurements. I've mentioned this before, but remember that I have had no official drawings for the tube frame, suspension layout, fluid systems, etc - everything has had to be worked backwards to fit the overall measurements of the outer shell. There are plenty of inaccuracies in this model, but if it all fits together - I'll be happy!
If anyone's followed the thread for a while you'll know that one or two bits have had to be re-made or modified along the way - the gearshift and seat mounting, for example. I have to take most of my measurements from photos and by comparing to other parts or known lengths, so it's inevitable that some bits are undersize, some oversize. I could have spent weeks or months designing the whole car in CAD before starting to cut plastic, but I prefer to do a minimum of pencil layout drawings then get stuck in!
I make notes on various bits as I go along, and a few sketches so that I don't forget the measurements. One of the first things I did on this project was to spend a few hours going through all the photos trying to work out how the fuel, oil and cooling systems were laid-out - as you'll soon see, this work is now starting to be useful.
However, if I was building another 917, the situation would be very different. So many books have been published during the last ten years, including all sorts of factory drawings, chassis plans, bodywork lines, detail photos, etc. These would remove so much of the guesswork and produce a more dimensionally-accurate model (and probably a faster build, too!).
Breaking everything into small sub-assemblies does give me an escape route if things go wrong - particularly when it could be months before section A is fitted to section B. Fortunately my scrappage rate is very low, but in the fifth year of a project I'm not going to start over! By this stage, I'll adjust measurements to make sure everything fits - but the trick is keeping it as accurate as possible for as long as possible. Using Lego (or similar) to produce a good tube-frame is a good starting point - if the chassis is out, you'll be chasing problems right from day one.
So, what have I been doing recently?
Of the three weeks since the previous update, I spent two of them making a variety of fittings for the 935's fuel system. I calculated that I needed parts for about fourteen different sections of pipework, connecting all the various pumps, tanks, filters, etc, together. So, I made a chart and worked out how many straights, banjos and bends I needed and set to:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby942_zpsxq7xi3hr.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby942_zpsxq7xi3hr.jpg.html)
This is just a small selection. They're a mixture of 2mm and 2.5mm hex, plus various bits of round, tube, punched discs, etc. Given that each fitting might have four or five individual parts, and there are at least fourteen hoses each with two fittings, the maths soon starts to add up. Somewhere in excess of 100 individual components to be cut, drilled, filed and glued together...which is why it took nearly two weeks!
Having made a bunch of fittings, I could start cutting some hose and connecting it all together:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby943_zps07ysi1ju.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby943_zps07ysi1ju.jpg.html)
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby944_zpshv6t4ze5.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby944_zpshv6t4ze5.jpg.html)
The hose lengths all need to be finalised, but it's good to see where everything is going to go - and make sure that it will fit. I had to make a few extra fittings as I went through the system, as what works on the real thing doesn't always fit on the model. I've also made one or two little bits in the engine bay, but that's for another time.
After two weeks of grinding through the fuel system I wanted a change, so during the long Easter weekend I returned to the seat. Ideally I wanted to add some sort of edge which would allow the covering to wrap over the sides, but after a lot of head-scratching I couldn't come up with something that was satisfactory. However, I came up with this as an alternative:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby945_zpstxpeglcr.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby945_zpstxpeglcr.jpg.html)
I stripped-out a length of 2mm wire, then slit the outer sheath along it's length to create an edging strip. It was a bit tricky getting it to fit into place - particularly around the tighter curves - but I eventually got it glued down.
Next, I made side panels from thin 0.3mm styrene and covered these in cotton material from an old work-shirt of mine. This will probably also be used to cover the dashboard and instrument pod - it will be a noble sacrifice! To prevent any chance of glue showing through, I used double-sided tape for the visible side, and CA glue where the cloth was wrapped over onto the back:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby946_zpsadapesec.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby946_zpsadapesec.jpg.html)
The bottom edge was left long to cover the transition from the side to the base of the seat. I then fitted two lengths of black 0.5mm styrene along the centre-line - this would give me somewhere to glue all the individual sections of seat 'padding'. These were made from lengths of 0.75 x 4.8mm styrene covered in cloth - again, double-sided tape on top, CA glue below.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby947_zpsr4ze2fxb.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby947_zpsr4ze2fxb.jpg.html)
I left the front of the seat alone for now - I would adjust the size of the cut-out for the crotch straps to suit when all the padding was in place. After making 28 pieces of padding (most of them yesterday), here's the end result:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby948_zpsapp0yvfd.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby948_zpsapp0yvfd.jpg.html)
It may not be totally accurate to the original factory car (which appears to have had a plain seat covering) but the rebuilt Freisinger car has this type of padding - and, to my eyes, it's more visually interesting. Once it's got the seatbelts draped over it, it'll be spot-on.
That's it for today - wanted to get this posted before the GP starts! Not sure what's next on the list - if I'm keen I'll think about the seat belts, but I want to improve on what I did for the 908-03. I don't think I'm up to the job of making hand-embroidered seatbelt padding, though!
Have a good week,
SB
I'll start this update by trying to answer Dan's question. This particular project has been more complicated than any of the others, simply because of the lack of hard info and measurements. I've mentioned this before, but remember that I have had no official drawings for the tube frame, suspension layout, fluid systems, etc - everything has had to be worked backwards to fit the overall measurements of the outer shell. There are plenty of inaccuracies in this model, but if it all fits together - I'll be happy!
If anyone's followed the thread for a while you'll know that one or two bits have had to be re-made or modified along the way - the gearshift and seat mounting, for example. I have to take most of my measurements from photos and by comparing to other parts or known lengths, so it's inevitable that some bits are undersize, some oversize. I could have spent weeks or months designing the whole car in CAD before starting to cut plastic, but I prefer to do a minimum of pencil layout drawings then get stuck in!
I make notes on various bits as I go along, and a few sketches so that I don't forget the measurements. One of the first things I did on this project was to spend a few hours going through all the photos trying to work out how the fuel, oil and cooling systems were laid-out - as you'll soon see, this work is now starting to be useful.
However, if I was building another 917, the situation would be very different. So many books have been published during the last ten years, including all sorts of factory drawings, chassis plans, bodywork lines, detail photos, etc. These would remove so much of the guesswork and produce a more dimensionally-accurate model (and probably a faster build, too!).
Breaking everything into small sub-assemblies does give me an escape route if things go wrong - particularly when it could be months before section A is fitted to section B. Fortunately my scrappage rate is very low, but in the fifth year of a project I'm not going to start over! By this stage, I'll adjust measurements to make sure everything fits - but the trick is keeping it as accurate as possible for as long as possible. Using Lego (or similar) to produce a good tube-frame is a good starting point - if the chassis is out, you'll be chasing problems right from day one.
So, what have I been doing recently?
Of the three weeks since the previous update, I spent two of them making a variety of fittings for the 935's fuel system. I calculated that I needed parts for about fourteen different sections of pipework, connecting all the various pumps, tanks, filters, etc, together. So, I made a chart and worked out how many straights, banjos and bends I needed and set to:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby942_zpsxq7xi3hr.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby942_zpsxq7xi3hr.jpg.html)
This is just a small selection. They're a mixture of 2mm and 2.5mm hex, plus various bits of round, tube, punched discs, etc. Given that each fitting might have four or five individual parts, and there are at least fourteen hoses each with two fittings, the maths soon starts to add up. Somewhere in excess of 100 individual components to be cut, drilled, filed and glued together...which is why it took nearly two weeks!
Having made a bunch of fittings, I could start cutting some hose and connecting it all together:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby943_zps07ysi1ju.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby943_zps07ysi1ju.jpg.html)
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby944_zpshv6t4ze5.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby944_zpshv6t4ze5.jpg.html)
The hose lengths all need to be finalised, but it's good to see where everything is going to go - and make sure that it will fit. I had to make a few extra fittings as I went through the system, as what works on the real thing doesn't always fit on the model. I've also made one or two little bits in the engine bay, but that's for another time.
After two weeks of grinding through the fuel system I wanted a change, so during the long Easter weekend I returned to the seat. Ideally I wanted to add some sort of edge which would allow the covering to wrap over the sides, but after a lot of head-scratching I couldn't come up with something that was satisfactory. However, I came up with this as an alternative:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby945_zpstxpeglcr.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby945_zpstxpeglcr.jpg.html)
I stripped-out a length of 2mm wire, then slit the outer sheath along it's length to create an edging strip. It was a bit tricky getting it to fit into place - particularly around the tighter curves - but I eventually got it glued down.
Next, I made side panels from thin 0.3mm styrene and covered these in cotton material from an old work-shirt of mine. This will probably also be used to cover the dashboard and instrument pod - it will be a noble sacrifice! To prevent any chance of glue showing through, I used double-sided tape for the visible side, and CA glue where the cloth was wrapped over onto the back:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby946_zpsadapesec.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby946_zpsadapesec.jpg.html)
The bottom edge was left long to cover the transition from the side to the base of the seat. I then fitted two lengths of black 0.5mm styrene along the centre-line - this would give me somewhere to glue all the individual sections of seat 'padding'. These were made from lengths of 0.75 x 4.8mm styrene covered in cloth - again, double-sided tape on top, CA glue below.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby947_zpsr4ze2fxb.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby947_zpsr4ze2fxb.jpg.html)
I left the front of the seat alone for now - I would adjust the size of the cut-out for the crotch straps to suit when all the padding was in place. After making 28 pieces of padding (most of them yesterday), here's the end result:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby948_zpsapp0yvfd.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby948_zpsapp0yvfd.jpg.html)
It may not be totally accurate to the original factory car (which appears to have had a plain seat covering) but the rebuilt Freisinger car has this type of padding - and, to my eyes, it's more visually interesting. Once it's got the seatbelts draped over it, it'll be spot-on.
That's it for today - wanted to get this posted before the GP starts! Not sure what's next on the list - if I'm keen I'll think about the seat belts, but I want to improve on what I did for the 908-03. I don't think I'm up to the job of making hand-embroidered seatbelt padding, though!
Have a good week,
SB
nugundam93
04-03-2016, 08:42 PM
Another awesome update, sb! To borrow the words from dragonball z...your level of detailing ia over 9000! :)
ianc911
04-11-2016, 07:00 PM
What?! You're using PE nuts?
I'm scandalized! ;)
Fantastically tasty as usual,
ianc
I'm scandalized! ;)
Fantastically tasty as usual,
ianc
ScratchBuilt
04-24-2016, 01:08 PM
Who, me? Use PE parts? No - my nuts are styrene, and probably always will be. Hmm...maybe I could have worded that last sentence a little differently!
Seriously though, I've not had much success with PE when I've used it on odd occasions in the past - maybe I've just been using all the wrong tools, but I find it awkward to cut, difficult to drill, and nigh-on impossible to glue together or paint! I put together a 1/43 'Provence Moulage' Van Diemen FF2000 a while back, and ended up replacing most of the PE parts with scratch-built styrene components...
So, what's new? After spending so long working on the front of the car, my attention has recently moved rearwards again - first with the seat over Easter, and now to the rear cockpit panelling. I'd made cardboard patterns for some of the parts a while ago, and now set about re-creating them in flat fibreglass:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby949_zpsmtov7szh.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby949_zpsmtov7szh.jpg.html)
It's too early to start fixing them in place, of course, but I need to start working out how I'm going to paint and assemble the interior, where I'm going to run cables and wiring, etc. You can also see here that I've also started adding the vertical panels which connect to the rear parcel-shelf area - I managed to convince myself that if I glued these parts in place, I would still be able to remove and re-fit the styrene crossbeam that sits underneath.
Next, more detailing of the rear bulkhead. I've loose-fitted the pipes from the two side radiators in order to put holes in the bulkhead - not totally easy as the chassis tubes behind the panel restrict where the pipes can come through.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby950_zpschof74px.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby950_zpschof74px.jpg.html)
To the inside of the water pipes you can also see where I've added a couple of styrene plates - on the real car these are two of the points where the tube frame is bolted to the remains of the original 911 shell, but fortunately for me they're not structural in 1/8 scale.
This next photo illustrates my comment about the water pipes being restricted as to where they can pass through the bulkhead:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby951_zpskunuhhff.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby951_zpskunuhhff.jpg.html)
For now they've been left long until I finalise the engine position and finish the rest of the plumbing. Before doing this, I wanted to tackle the pipework which runs between the two intercoolers - mainly so that I could be sure everything would still fit together later. This is another area which is lacking in reference photos, so I've based my design largely on 934/935 practice and guesswork:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby955_zpsruh5kmlq.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby955_zpsruh5kmlq.jpg.html)
Everything you see above is still removable. The styrene boxes provide me with end-tanks for the two intercooler cores that would be inside, and the pipework will be trimmed to length when the inlet trumpets are fixed in place. I'll also add some hoseclip detailing, too. The two small ali stubs are where I'll connect pipes running to the water pump and back to the chassis tube. The black pipe with hex fittings is (I assume) a pressure-balancing tube between the two sides - I can't think of a better explanation! Reference photos clearly show the screw-on fittings, but I've got nothing that shows what goes onto them. Given that most of this pipework will be hidden from view when finished, I'm not too worried about the accuracy...
Next, something of a first for me during my time making models of Porsche cars - a water header tank. Thirteen years of 917's and 908's, and I've never had to make a single water filler neck...now I need to make three! The tank hangs from below the rear parcel-shelf and sits between the two intercooler assemblies - the tricky thing here is that the back end of it is covered with a clear plastic / glass panel which allows an immediate check of the water levels in the three cooling systems. Great - now I need to add water to my models...!
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby952_zpsthzqrgwy.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby952_zpsthzqrgwy.jpg.html)
Here you can see the basic construction in white 0.75mm styrene with box-section spacers. The two black panels will allow me to avoid having to paint the exposed front end, and provide a nice dark interior...
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby953_zpsxhgkiibb.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby953_zpsxhgkiibb.jpg.html)
Not the best photo, but I hope you can see what I'm getting at. To add 'water' to the tank, I sandwiched two small pieces of plastic bag between the black panels from the previous photo, cut to show a different level in each of the three compartments. The three filler necks will pass through the parcel-shelf and pin into place - but not until the tank is fixed! The filler caps are made from a length of 7/32" tube with half-round section glued along each side, then chopped into slices. Punched discs fill in the centre, and another disc underneath allows the caps to plug securely into the top of the neck.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby954_zpsdvwxmrgt.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby954_zpsdvwxmrgt.jpg.html)
In this final photo you can see how the tank fits in place onto the parcel-shelf - this will all be hidden when the roof is added. The white styrene strip (with non-PE nut detailing...!) isn't actually used to locate the tank, but provides a convenient way to create the main mounting clip. Three small overflow pipes will have to be added from the filler necks, running down into the engine bay.
The rear cover for the tank has been cut from clear plastic and has been partially pinned in place - there's plenty more holes that need to be drilled before this is finished, plus a little blue sealant added around the edges of the three viewing holes. I'll run pipes from the back of the tank to connect to the three individual water systems below - again, not much in the way of photo reference for this, but you won't see it when finished.
That's it for now. There's still plenty to do with the pipework, but at least I now have a good idea of how much space is available behind the bulkhead - I'm not expecting any problems (other than lack of photos). Work will continue!
Have a good week,
SB
Seriously though, I've not had much success with PE when I've used it on odd occasions in the past - maybe I've just been using all the wrong tools, but I find it awkward to cut, difficult to drill, and nigh-on impossible to glue together or paint! I put together a 1/43 'Provence Moulage' Van Diemen FF2000 a while back, and ended up replacing most of the PE parts with scratch-built styrene components...
So, what's new? After spending so long working on the front of the car, my attention has recently moved rearwards again - first with the seat over Easter, and now to the rear cockpit panelling. I'd made cardboard patterns for some of the parts a while ago, and now set about re-creating them in flat fibreglass:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby949_zpsmtov7szh.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby949_zpsmtov7szh.jpg.html)
It's too early to start fixing them in place, of course, but I need to start working out how I'm going to paint and assemble the interior, where I'm going to run cables and wiring, etc. You can also see here that I've also started adding the vertical panels which connect to the rear parcel-shelf area - I managed to convince myself that if I glued these parts in place, I would still be able to remove and re-fit the styrene crossbeam that sits underneath.
Next, more detailing of the rear bulkhead. I've loose-fitted the pipes from the two side radiators in order to put holes in the bulkhead - not totally easy as the chassis tubes behind the panel restrict where the pipes can come through.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby950_zpschof74px.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby950_zpschof74px.jpg.html)
To the inside of the water pipes you can also see where I've added a couple of styrene plates - on the real car these are two of the points where the tube frame is bolted to the remains of the original 911 shell, but fortunately for me they're not structural in 1/8 scale.
This next photo illustrates my comment about the water pipes being restricted as to where they can pass through the bulkhead:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby951_zpskunuhhff.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby951_zpskunuhhff.jpg.html)
For now they've been left long until I finalise the engine position and finish the rest of the plumbing. Before doing this, I wanted to tackle the pipework which runs between the two intercoolers - mainly so that I could be sure everything would still fit together later. This is another area which is lacking in reference photos, so I've based my design largely on 934/935 practice and guesswork:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby955_zpsruh5kmlq.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby955_zpsruh5kmlq.jpg.html)
Everything you see above is still removable. The styrene boxes provide me with end-tanks for the two intercooler cores that would be inside, and the pipework will be trimmed to length when the inlet trumpets are fixed in place. I'll also add some hoseclip detailing, too. The two small ali stubs are where I'll connect pipes running to the water pump and back to the chassis tube. The black pipe with hex fittings is (I assume) a pressure-balancing tube between the two sides - I can't think of a better explanation! Reference photos clearly show the screw-on fittings, but I've got nothing that shows what goes onto them. Given that most of this pipework will be hidden from view when finished, I'm not too worried about the accuracy...
Next, something of a first for me during my time making models of Porsche cars - a water header tank. Thirteen years of 917's and 908's, and I've never had to make a single water filler neck...now I need to make three! The tank hangs from below the rear parcel-shelf and sits between the two intercooler assemblies - the tricky thing here is that the back end of it is covered with a clear plastic / glass panel which allows an immediate check of the water levels in the three cooling systems. Great - now I need to add water to my models...!
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby952_zpsthzqrgwy.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby952_zpsthzqrgwy.jpg.html)
Here you can see the basic construction in white 0.75mm styrene with box-section spacers. The two black panels will allow me to avoid having to paint the exposed front end, and provide a nice dark interior...
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby953_zpsxhgkiibb.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby953_zpsxhgkiibb.jpg.html)
Not the best photo, but I hope you can see what I'm getting at. To add 'water' to the tank, I sandwiched two small pieces of plastic bag between the black panels from the previous photo, cut to show a different level in each of the three compartments. The three filler necks will pass through the parcel-shelf and pin into place - but not until the tank is fixed! The filler caps are made from a length of 7/32" tube with half-round section glued along each side, then chopped into slices. Punched discs fill in the centre, and another disc underneath allows the caps to plug securely into the top of the neck.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby954_zpsdvwxmrgt.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby954_zpsdvwxmrgt.jpg.html)
In this final photo you can see how the tank fits in place onto the parcel-shelf - this will all be hidden when the roof is added. The white styrene strip (with non-PE nut detailing...!) isn't actually used to locate the tank, but provides a convenient way to create the main mounting clip. Three small overflow pipes will have to be added from the filler necks, running down into the engine bay.
The rear cover for the tank has been cut from clear plastic and has been partially pinned in place - there's plenty more holes that need to be drilled before this is finished, plus a little blue sealant added around the edges of the three viewing holes. I'll run pipes from the back of the tank to connect to the three individual water systems below - again, not much in the way of photo reference for this, but you won't see it when finished.
That's it for now. There's still plenty to do with the pipework, but at least I now have a good idea of how much space is available behind the bulkhead - I'm not expecting any problems (other than lack of photos). Work will continue!
Have a good week,
SB
nugundam93
04-24-2016, 01:17 PM
Always awesome with the little details!
ScratchBuilt
05-03-2016, 02:47 PM
Hello again,
Engine updates tonight. Remember all the turbo parts hanging from the main rear engine mounting plate? Well, I reached the point where that lot had to be fixed in position in order to continue making progress. So, time to take a deep breath and start gluing and pinning the four styrene brackets into place:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby956_zpsflli91hd.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby956_zpsflli91hd.jpg.html)
Each bracket has three pins - these will be filed smooth in time and have nut detailing added. Note also how the two compressor units at each end have been pinned - this has allowed me to start working on the connecting pipework to the intercoolers (black 6mm fire-extinguisher flexible ali hose).
With the core turbo parts fixed, I could add the two waste-gate units below. My first thought was that I would have to cut the kinked mounting plate from ali or brass, but an offcut of fibreglass from one of the dashboard panels provided a much easier solution:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby957_zpskfyexczs.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby957_zpskfyexczs.jpg.html)
Here the mounting plate has been drilled and pinned in place, and I've started on the pipework which connects it to the main exhaust branch. Since this photo was taken both these pipes have been drilled, pinned and greenstuffed. I've also added the two flanges between the turbo units and the exhaust primaries - these need more detailing, but have allowed me to finalise the exhaust positioning. The primary on the left-hand side needed a little cutting-and-shutting to get the alignment correct, too.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby958_zps1u0rtcgc.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby958_zps1u0rtcgc.jpg.html)
Here's the engine back in the car, with the main mounting plate pinned through to the chassis. The two central exhaust tailpipes are not finalised yet - they might need angling downwards to suit the bumper section in the rear bodywork.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby959_zpsmbzyktla.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby959_zpsmbzyktla.jpg.html)
Finally, here's the right-hand connecting pipe to the intercooler. The white sections of styrene tube for the hose pieces have been cut at an angle and re-glued in order to get a little curvature into the pipes. The hoseclips are a combination of 1.5mm x 0.25mm strip, 1.5mm rod, and more of the 'Wave Option' styrene hex-nuts.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby960_zpsfpgnev2p.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby960_zpsfpgnev2p.jpg.html)
I've still got plenty more to do in this area, but at least I can start finalising things. The intercooler connecting pipes, for example, are both finished and can be painted and put aside until final assembly - I don't have to trim them again in six-months time. I've now got to work out all the little oil feed and lubrication lines running from the main engine to the turbo units - so that'll be an evening studying the photos and books.
That's all for tonight. Have a good week.
SB
Engine updates tonight. Remember all the turbo parts hanging from the main rear engine mounting plate? Well, I reached the point where that lot had to be fixed in position in order to continue making progress. So, time to take a deep breath and start gluing and pinning the four styrene brackets into place:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby956_zpsflli91hd.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby956_zpsflli91hd.jpg.html)
Each bracket has three pins - these will be filed smooth in time and have nut detailing added. Note also how the two compressor units at each end have been pinned - this has allowed me to start working on the connecting pipework to the intercoolers (black 6mm fire-extinguisher flexible ali hose).
With the core turbo parts fixed, I could add the two waste-gate units below. My first thought was that I would have to cut the kinked mounting plate from ali or brass, but an offcut of fibreglass from one of the dashboard panels provided a much easier solution:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby957_zpskfyexczs.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby957_zpskfyexczs.jpg.html)
Here the mounting plate has been drilled and pinned in place, and I've started on the pipework which connects it to the main exhaust branch. Since this photo was taken both these pipes have been drilled, pinned and greenstuffed. I've also added the two flanges between the turbo units and the exhaust primaries - these need more detailing, but have allowed me to finalise the exhaust positioning. The primary on the left-hand side needed a little cutting-and-shutting to get the alignment correct, too.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby958_zps1u0rtcgc.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby958_zps1u0rtcgc.jpg.html)
Here's the engine back in the car, with the main mounting plate pinned through to the chassis. The two central exhaust tailpipes are not finalised yet - they might need angling downwards to suit the bumper section in the rear bodywork.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby959_zpsmbzyktla.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby959_zpsmbzyktla.jpg.html)
Finally, here's the right-hand connecting pipe to the intercooler. The white sections of styrene tube for the hose pieces have been cut at an angle and re-glued in order to get a little curvature into the pipes. The hoseclips are a combination of 1.5mm x 0.25mm strip, 1.5mm rod, and more of the 'Wave Option' styrene hex-nuts.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby960_zpsfpgnev2p.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby960_zpsfpgnev2p.jpg.html)
I've still got plenty more to do in this area, but at least I can start finalising things. The intercooler connecting pipes, for example, are both finished and can be painted and put aside until final assembly - I don't have to trim them again in six-months time. I've now got to work out all the little oil feed and lubrication lines running from the main engine to the turbo units - so that'll be an evening studying the photos and books.
That's all for tonight. Have a good week.
SB
prog4ever
05-04-2016, 03:19 AM
http://i40.tinypic.com/2eb663b.png
This wonderful project doesn't stop to amaze me!
Got no words to define it.
Congrats and keep-on-going!
Art
This wonderful project doesn't stop to amaze me!
Got no words to define it.
Congrats and keep-on-going!
Art
chris24
05-04-2016, 04:56 AM
I still don't understand how all your achievements so far are humanly possible : every little parts fit exactly into place, all the measurements are perfectly respected...
You must have worked at the development of the real Moby Dick in a former life ! :D
You must have worked at the development of the real Moby Dick in a former life ! :D
ScratchBuilt
05-16-2016, 02:39 PM
Hello again,
Should have posted this last night, but the connection was being hit-and-miss, so decided to wait.
More engine-related work to show you. You might remember how I made the basics of the throttle linkage several months ago (actually, probably many months ago!). Now that the inlet manifolds and intercoolers are in position, I could start finalising the details. Here's the linkage in kit form:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby961_zps2f7kodrl.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby961_zps2f7kodrl.jpg.html)
Here you've got the various lever arms which will connect to the throttle butterflies, fuel injection pump, etc, plus the main pick-up for the throttle cable in the middle. The two springs provide a return mechanism and act on the two mounting blocks and the extra pair of levers. There's a couple of little clamping-block details on each end, and a few of the really small Wave hex-nuts.
Next, you've got these two small control valves which are a common feature on the Porsche turbo engines of this period. I confess I'm not entirely sure what they're for - they're on the inlet manifold side of the intercoolers (rather than the turbo side) and by the looks of the linkage they're possibly intended to operate only at a certain point. Given that they are not duct-fed from the outside and just exit into the engine bay, I don't know whether they're just a relief valve of some sort?
All of which is not really important, of course! The curved pipes were made by threading sections of tube over a length of small-bore aquarium hose, with greenstuff to fill the gaps. There'll be a couple of small levers added to each valve, with the shaft running through the ali tube in the middle. Again, more Wave nuts to finish things off....mmm, so much easier than making them myself! The mesh grilles were stamped out using a regular home-office hole-punch and CA'd into place.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby963_zpst51ujnns.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby963_zpst51ujnns.jpg.html)
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby962_zpsq4z36uxu.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby962_zpsq4z36uxu.jpg.html)
Finally, here's the linkage in place on the engine:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby964_zps0kzo8ibc.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby964_zps0kzo8ibc.jpg.html)
The short diagonal tube in the right-hand corner of the engine bay has been moved over slightly to give more clearance - not much, but you can see the difference by comparing the position to the ali tubes at the extreme bottom of the photos. Whilst greenstuffing the curved pipes I added some more weld detailing around the engine bay.
So far, so good. Everything clears where it's supposed to, and I should be able to connect all the various levers and pushrods as required. That'll be the project for this week - very fiddly stuff, though!
That's all for now,
SB
Should have posted this last night, but the connection was being hit-and-miss, so decided to wait.
More engine-related work to show you. You might remember how I made the basics of the throttle linkage several months ago (actually, probably many months ago!). Now that the inlet manifolds and intercoolers are in position, I could start finalising the details. Here's the linkage in kit form:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby961_zps2f7kodrl.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby961_zps2f7kodrl.jpg.html)
Here you've got the various lever arms which will connect to the throttle butterflies, fuel injection pump, etc, plus the main pick-up for the throttle cable in the middle. The two springs provide a return mechanism and act on the two mounting blocks and the extra pair of levers. There's a couple of little clamping-block details on each end, and a few of the really small Wave hex-nuts.
Next, you've got these two small control valves which are a common feature on the Porsche turbo engines of this period. I confess I'm not entirely sure what they're for - they're on the inlet manifold side of the intercoolers (rather than the turbo side) and by the looks of the linkage they're possibly intended to operate only at a certain point. Given that they are not duct-fed from the outside and just exit into the engine bay, I don't know whether they're just a relief valve of some sort?
All of which is not really important, of course! The curved pipes were made by threading sections of tube over a length of small-bore aquarium hose, with greenstuff to fill the gaps. There'll be a couple of small levers added to each valve, with the shaft running through the ali tube in the middle. Again, more Wave nuts to finish things off....mmm, so much easier than making them myself! The mesh grilles were stamped out using a regular home-office hole-punch and CA'd into place.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby963_zpst51ujnns.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby963_zpst51ujnns.jpg.html)
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby962_zpsq4z36uxu.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby962_zpsq4z36uxu.jpg.html)
Finally, here's the linkage in place on the engine:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby964_zps0kzo8ibc.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby964_zps0kzo8ibc.jpg.html)
The short diagonal tube in the right-hand corner of the engine bay has been moved over slightly to give more clearance - not much, but you can see the difference by comparing the position to the ali tubes at the extreme bottom of the photos. Whilst greenstuffing the curved pipes I added some more weld detailing around the engine bay.
So far, so good. Everything clears where it's supposed to, and I should be able to connect all the various levers and pushrods as required. That'll be the project for this week - very fiddly stuff, though!
That's all for now,
SB
codea
05-17-2016, 06:11 AM
I have watched fellow modellers struggle to find superlatives to describe your work, so I am not even going to try. Once in a half lifetime some one comes along who puts this kind of effort into model building and takes it from a hobby into art. The fact that you can create such detail and that you do it without a dedicated table, specialist tools or equipment is just amazing. I know from your posts that you are a motor racing enthusiast so I know a lot of what you can add to the model comes from understanding what a racing motor requires plus all your research. I have learned so much from you. Quite simply thank you for sharing your talent with the rest of the world, you are truly amazing.
I can see that throttle linkages etc are important to the model, but how do you decide where to draw the line on detailing?
I can see that throttle linkages etc are important to the model, but how do you decide where to draw the line on detailing?
ScratchBuilt
05-17-2016, 02:35 PM
Hi codea,
Thank you for your kind comments - much appreciated. I know that there are certain aspects of my approach to modelling which are different to 'the norm', but I feel that ultimately you have to enjoy the process, you need to have an interest / enthusiasm for the subject. For me, for the last twelve years or so, it's been 70's Porsche - and a steadily growing collection of books, photos and die-cast models! When a project can take years rather than weeks or months, you've got to maintain the belief that the end result will be worth all the effort.
Where to draw the line on detailing? Hard to say - it varies. Sometimes it's the lack of reference material that limits what I can do, or lack of suitable material to work with. At 1/8 scale even in styrene things start to get heavy, so strength and structure is probably more of a concern for me than for most people. I'll sacrifice a little detail if it means something won't fall apart! My worry with the 935/78 is the way the engine and gearbox is mounted - I'd like to add some extra supports, but without making it too obvious. I admit now that I'm not looking forward to tackling the headlights, or the Martini stripes...
A big part of my effort to add detail is to keep things interesting for everyone following the thread - especially when some of the same parts repeat themselves on different projects. I'm looking at how I can add another layer of detail, how can I improve on what I did last time - can I make the same part in a different / easier / faster way? I'd like to think that if I posted something that you guys felt was not 'up to standard' you'd soon let me know!
SB
Thank you for your kind comments - much appreciated. I know that there are certain aspects of my approach to modelling which are different to 'the norm', but I feel that ultimately you have to enjoy the process, you need to have an interest / enthusiasm for the subject. For me, for the last twelve years or so, it's been 70's Porsche - and a steadily growing collection of books, photos and die-cast models! When a project can take years rather than weeks or months, you've got to maintain the belief that the end result will be worth all the effort.
Where to draw the line on detailing? Hard to say - it varies. Sometimes it's the lack of reference material that limits what I can do, or lack of suitable material to work with. At 1/8 scale even in styrene things start to get heavy, so strength and structure is probably more of a concern for me than for most people. I'll sacrifice a little detail if it means something won't fall apart! My worry with the 935/78 is the way the engine and gearbox is mounted - I'd like to add some extra supports, but without making it too obvious. I admit now that I'm not looking forward to tackling the headlights, or the Martini stripes...
A big part of my effort to add detail is to keep things interesting for everyone following the thread - especially when some of the same parts repeat themselves on different projects. I'm looking at how I can add another layer of detail, how can I improve on what I did last time - can I make the same part in a different / easier / faster way? I'd like to think that if I posted something that you guys felt was not 'up to standard' you'd soon let me know!
SB
ScratchBuilt
05-22-2016, 02:46 PM
A quick update tonight.
My main focus this week has been the assorted rods and joints which connect the main throttle lever cross-shaft to the various parts of the engine. Apologies for the lack of 'in progress' photos with this one - given the fiddly nature of the parts, I was concentrating more on making them, than shooting them!
Anyway, here's the cross-shaft from last time with the extra linkages added:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby965_zpsvspu3hml.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby965_zpsvspu3hml.jpg.html)
...and a close-up of one end:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby966_zps9oogvuis.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby966_zps9oogvuis.jpg.html)
The main rods are 0.78mm brass. The rod-end detailing is a mix of 2mm round styrene, a thin slice of hex, and the black sections are outer sheathing from a length of wire. Everything's pinned together with 0.65mm wire, and will eventually be fully hex-nut detailed.
Here's the linkage on the engine:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby967_zps4ic4emme.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby967_zps4ic4emme.jpg.html)
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby968_zpsdqzxm1vc.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby968_zpsdqzxm1vc.jpg.html)
The last rod will drop down to connect to the side of the fuel injection pump - slightly tricky as there's not too much space between the inlet manifold and the pump. The two levers at the top of the manifolds need spacers fitted to get the positioning correct, but that's easy enough to do. All the rods are cut to length and the end fittings CA'd in place - it's now a question of how much of it I can fully pre-assemble before painting without causing any problems.
That's all for tonight,
SB
My main focus this week has been the assorted rods and joints which connect the main throttle lever cross-shaft to the various parts of the engine. Apologies for the lack of 'in progress' photos with this one - given the fiddly nature of the parts, I was concentrating more on making them, than shooting them!
Anyway, here's the cross-shaft from last time with the extra linkages added:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby965_zpsvspu3hml.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby965_zpsvspu3hml.jpg.html)
...and a close-up of one end:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby966_zps9oogvuis.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby966_zps9oogvuis.jpg.html)
The main rods are 0.78mm brass. The rod-end detailing is a mix of 2mm round styrene, a thin slice of hex, and the black sections are outer sheathing from a length of wire. Everything's pinned together with 0.65mm wire, and will eventually be fully hex-nut detailed.
Here's the linkage on the engine:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby967_zps4ic4emme.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby967_zps4ic4emme.jpg.html)
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby968_zpsdqzxm1vc.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby968_zpsdqzxm1vc.jpg.html)
The last rod will drop down to connect to the side of the fuel injection pump - slightly tricky as there's not too much space between the inlet manifold and the pump. The two levers at the top of the manifolds need spacers fitted to get the positioning correct, but that's easy enough to do. All the rods are cut to length and the end fittings CA'd in place - it's now a question of how much of it I can fully pre-assemble before painting without causing any problems.
That's all for tonight,
SB
88Porsche944
05-23-2016, 12:42 AM
SB,
Your updates never cease amaze. Outstanding work!
Trevor
Your updates never cease amaze. Outstanding work!
Trevor
ianc911
05-23-2016, 03:48 PM
Gorgeous as usual. That would have taken me weeks to build!
ianc
ianc
ianc911
05-23-2016, 03:49 PM
Gorgeous as usual. That would have taken me weeks to build!
ianc
ianc
ScratchBuilt
05-31-2016, 03:36 PM
Hello again,
Not a huge amount to show you tonight - there's a couple of things I've done but not photographed, and more stuff that's very much 'in progress' until the weekend. However, the main thing I wanted to discuss was how to get a suitable surface finish on the intercooler housings...
So, the intercoolers are encased in the two housings which sit on top of the inlet manifolds. From period photos these housings are (I'm assuming) of aluminium construction, but at some point are painted or dipped in a textured coating. I guess it's a thermal barrier of some kind, but it's basically like a crackle-finish on a manifold. I don't want to simply paint the intercoolers plain black - I want to try to replicate the fine textured surface of the real car.
My first thought was a combination of glue and micro-balloons, but a quick test suggested this was not going to work. Maybe my balloons are too small? Do they do different sizes? Will check. I tried spraying a test-piece with hairspray (thanks, mum) to see if this would dry with an appropriate surface, but no luck. However, a can of spray photo-mount produced an interesting result:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby970_zpszkvv19g9.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby970_zpszkvv19g9.jpg.html)
For scale, the styrene strip is about 1" tall. I sprayed the photo-mount, then used a toothbrush (not mine..!) to get a more suitable stippled finish. After it had dried I gave it a quick coat of grey primer, then a coat of my regular Citadel 'Chaos Black' and a little drybrushing.
Although (as you'll see below) it's an interesting and potentially useful texture, I don't think it's quite right for the intercoolers. A conversation with colleagues at work led to the idea of using glass blasting beads (approx. 0.4 - 0.5mm diameter), in the same way you would apply scenic grass 'flocking'. So, more tests - this time I made sample pieces using both photo-mount and a coat of PVA glue for the adhesive layer. Here's the results:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby971_zpsdkxu1txe.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby971_zpsdkxu1txe.jpg.html)
On the left from top to bottom you have:
Glass beads on photo-mount.
Glass beads on PVA.
Photo mount mk1
...and on the right, photo-mount mk2.
The photo-mount texture looks like it would be really good for creating the scrubbed surface of a slick racing tyre - providing it doesn't eat into the foam first! I can do more tests later to see if this is an option. I will try a new fresh can of photo-mount before making a final decision on the glass beads - the can I've been using is spraying a bit thick and lumpy, so maybe a fresh can will give a thinner, finer coat? Using PVA brings the advantage of being able to get the glue exactly where I want it, but it might not be as durable. Another option would be to get some used (smaller) glass beads to try.
So, any suggestions? Might have to check out some of the big 1/12-scale 935 build threads around here for more ideas...!
Finally for tonight, I spent some more time on the water header tank. A thin trace of blue paint around each of the three windows to be the sealant, then each 'screw' was CA'd in place, snipped off, then filed flat. There's way too much dust showing in the photo, I know, but the finished piece will look okay when it's in position on the car.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby969_zps9khdmmd7.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby969_zps9khdmmd7.jpg.html)
...and yes, the screws on the real thing are also not perfectly aligned or evenly spaced!
See you next time,
SB
Not a huge amount to show you tonight - there's a couple of things I've done but not photographed, and more stuff that's very much 'in progress' until the weekend. However, the main thing I wanted to discuss was how to get a suitable surface finish on the intercooler housings...
So, the intercoolers are encased in the two housings which sit on top of the inlet manifolds. From period photos these housings are (I'm assuming) of aluminium construction, but at some point are painted or dipped in a textured coating. I guess it's a thermal barrier of some kind, but it's basically like a crackle-finish on a manifold. I don't want to simply paint the intercoolers plain black - I want to try to replicate the fine textured surface of the real car.
My first thought was a combination of glue and micro-balloons, but a quick test suggested this was not going to work. Maybe my balloons are too small? Do they do different sizes? Will check. I tried spraying a test-piece with hairspray (thanks, mum) to see if this would dry with an appropriate surface, but no luck. However, a can of spray photo-mount produced an interesting result:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby970_zpszkvv19g9.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby970_zpszkvv19g9.jpg.html)
For scale, the styrene strip is about 1" tall. I sprayed the photo-mount, then used a toothbrush (not mine..!) to get a more suitable stippled finish. After it had dried I gave it a quick coat of grey primer, then a coat of my regular Citadel 'Chaos Black' and a little drybrushing.
Although (as you'll see below) it's an interesting and potentially useful texture, I don't think it's quite right for the intercoolers. A conversation with colleagues at work led to the idea of using glass blasting beads (approx. 0.4 - 0.5mm diameter), in the same way you would apply scenic grass 'flocking'. So, more tests - this time I made sample pieces using both photo-mount and a coat of PVA glue for the adhesive layer. Here's the results:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby971_zpsdkxu1txe.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby971_zpsdkxu1txe.jpg.html)
On the left from top to bottom you have:
Glass beads on photo-mount.
Glass beads on PVA.
Photo mount mk1
...and on the right, photo-mount mk2.
The photo-mount texture looks like it would be really good for creating the scrubbed surface of a slick racing tyre - providing it doesn't eat into the foam first! I can do more tests later to see if this is an option. I will try a new fresh can of photo-mount before making a final decision on the glass beads - the can I've been using is spraying a bit thick and lumpy, so maybe a fresh can will give a thinner, finer coat? Using PVA brings the advantage of being able to get the glue exactly where I want it, but it might not be as durable. Another option would be to get some used (smaller) glass beads to try.
So, any suggestions? Might have to check out some of the big 1/12-scale 935 build threads around here for more ideas...!
Finally for tonight, I spent some more time on the water header tank. A thin trace of blue paint around each of the three windows to be the sealant, then each 'screw' was CA'd in place, snipped off, then filed flat. There's way too much dust showing in the photo, I know, but the finished piece will look okay when it's in position on the car.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby969_zps9khdmmd7.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby969_zps9khdmmd7.jpg.html)
...and yes, the screws on the real thing are also not perfectly aligned or evenly spaced!
See you next time,
SB
The 5th Horseman
05-31-2016, 04:04 PM
Scratchbuild in the purest sense of the word!! I have been modelling for some time now and i can clearly recall the times when the words ''aftermarket'' and ''photo-etched'' were basically unknown to us modellers. Although today you can add fantastic detail with the myriads of items now available to us, this work that you do is truly inspiring!! After looking at your models i have to consider myself merely an assembler, not a modeller now! :lol:
Carry on...
Carry on...
is200_adelaide
06-01-2016, 04:55 AM
This one is a bit left field but have you tried castor sugar? I've found it gives quite a good texture, even in 1/24 scale. My method usually involves spraying clear coat first then applying the sugar while it's still wet then color coat over the top.
The 5th Horseman
06-01-2016, 10:31 AM
Hi SB
if you are looking for a grainy surface i can suggest using sanding paper.. you can use fine or coarse depending on the effect your after, and you can cut it and shape it and bend it and glue it easily...
if you are looking for a grainy surface i can suggest using sanding paper.. you can use fine or coarse depending on the effect your after, and you can cut it and shape it and bend it and glue it easily...
GTRfan01
06-01-2016, 10:41 AM
great work so far! incredible!
i have a few ideas for the texture.
I'm not sure if it would be suitable but might be worth looking at.
I have used a few 'anti chip' paints used on real cars, the one i used came with a special nozzle which attached to the compressor which basically splattered the paint on as it is thich stuff.
Its usually used under front bumpers and side skirt under the doors so stones dont chip the paint.
it might also be available in pressure packs?
also, another idea like using sand paper is anti slip or grip tape, found in hardware or marine stores. it is generally a self adhesive tape.
i have a few ideas for the texture.
I'm not sure if it would be suitable but might be worth looking at.
I have used a few 'anti chip' paints used on real cars, the one i used came with a special nozzle which attached to the compressor which basically splattered the paint on as it is thich stuff.
Its usually used under front bumpers and side skirt under the doors so stones dont chip the paint.
it might also be available in pressure packs?
also, another idea like using sand paper is anti slip or grip tape, found in hardware or marine stores. it is generally a self adhesive tape.
ScratchBuilt
06-01-2016, 03:00 PM
Thanks guys - I was hoping that my last post would get you all thinking!
I was looking at a spray or paint-on technique first mainly because of the shape of the intercooler housings - as well as the main part to cover, you've got the three connecting pipes to the inlet manifolds, plus the pipes which run to the turbos. The sandpaper technique could work on the main body, but I might struggle to adapt it to the pipework.
The caster sugar idea isn't bad, either. I actually thought of something similar at the weekend, when we were making pizza - semolina! Fine, granular, and smaller than the (new) glass blasting beads.
I'm certainly going to invest in a new can of photo-mount before I do any more test pieces, as I'm sure that will help. I've got a variety of sandpaper sheets already, so I'll do some painting samples with those to see the results. Maybe I'll end up using a combination of techniques...?
I had a look at RobRex's 935 build thread too - he got the sort of effect I'm looking for, but didn't really explain how! I know he used a lot of microballoons on the fibreglass parts, but I'm not sure about the intercoolers.
Right, more testing required!
Thanks once again,
SB
I was looking at a spray or paint-on technique first mainly because of the shape of the intercooler housings - as well as the main part to cover, you've got the three connecting pipes to the inlet manifolds, plus the pipes which run to the turbos. The sandpaper technique could work on the main body, but I might struggle to adapt it to the pipework.
The caster sugar idea isn't bad, either. I actually thought of something similar at the weekend, when we were making pizza - semolina! Fine, granular, and smaller than the (new) glass blasting beads.
I'm certainly going to invest in a new can of photo-mount before I do any more test pieces, as I'm sure that will help. I've got a variety of sandpaper sheets already, so I'll do some painting samples with those to see the results. Maybe I'll end up using a combination of techniques...?
I had a look at RobRex's 935 build thread too - he got the sort of effect I'm looking for, but didn't really explain how! I know he used a lot of microballoons on the fibreglass parts, but I'm not sure about the intercoolers.
Right, more testing required!
Thanks once again,
SB
The 5th Horseman
06-01-2016, 05:00 PM
Thanks guys - I was hoping that my last post would get you all thinking!
I was looking at a spray or paint-on technique first mainly because of the shape of the intercooler housings - as well as the main part to cover, you've got the three connecting pipes to the inlet manifolds, plus the pipes which run to the turbos. The sandpaper technique could work on the main body, but I might struggle to adapt it to the pipework.
The caster sugar idea isn't bad, either. I actually thought of something similar at the weekend, when we were making pizza - semolina! Fine, granular, and smaller than the (new) glass blasting beads.
I'm certainly going to invest in a new can of photo-mount before I do any more test pieces, as I'm sure that will help. I've got a variety of sandpaper sheets already, so I'll do some painting samples with those to see the results. Maybe I'll end up using a combination of techniques...?
I had a look at RobRex's 935 build thread too - he got the sort of effect I'm looking for, but didn't really explain how! I know he used a lot of microballoons on the fibreglass parts, but I'm not sure about the intercoolers.
Right, more testing required!
Thanks once again,
SB
Hey SB , if you want to texture complex shapes you might consider using primer , like Gunzes the 500 grit (not the ultra fine stuff) and spray it via airbrush at low pressure and a little more distance so that the paint particles start to dry before reaching the surface. Experiment of course is the way to go...:)
I was looking at a spray or paint-on technique first mainly because of the shape of the intercooler housings - as well as the main part to cover, you've got the three connecting pipes to the inlet manifolds, plus the pipes which run to the turbos. The sandpaper technique could work on the main body, but I might struggle to adapt it to the pipework.
The caster sugar idea isn't bad, either. I actually thought of something similar at the weekend, when we were making pizza - semolina! Fine, granular, and smaller than the (new) glass blasting beads.
I'm certainly going to invest in a new can of photo-mount before I do any more test pieces, as I'm sure that will help. I've got a variety of sandpaper sheets already, so I'll do some painting samples with those to see the results. Maybe I'll end up using a combination of techniques...?
I had a look at RobRex's 935 build thread too - he got the sort of effect I'm looking for, but didn't really explain how! I know he used a lot of microballoons on the fibreglass parts, but I'm not sure about the intercoolers.
Right, more testing required!
Thanks once again,
SB
Hey SB , if you want to texture complex shapes you might consider using primer , like Gunzes the 500 grit (not the ultra fine stuff) and spray it via airbrush at low pressure and a little more distance so that the paint particles start to dry before reaching the surface. Experiment of course is the way to go...:)
icon_modeler
06-02-2016, 10:09 AM
When trying to simulate a cast texture military modelers brush the plastic with strong liquid cement and let it soften the plastic then use a stiff bristled brush in a stippling effect to create a texture. Maybe this would work. Or there is always Scale Motorsports Fuex Fabric in the spray can.
gtziaf
06-02-2016, 11:02 AM
My two cents on this conversation.
I think that the easiest way to go is the fabric spray paints. They give nice texture when sprayed from distance and is ideal for 1/2 - 1/8. Also you can add more coats for more texture if you want.
Τenco and Scale Motorsport give us these kind of paint. Grey and black from both and red only from SM.
I made, years ago, a tutorial in Greek.:naughty: Some photo which included maybe can help you .
http://www.scalewheels-gr.com/thread/159/
Hope it helps, especially because you use sprays often...
I think that the easiest way to go is the fabric spray paints. They give nice texture when sprayed from distance and is ideal for 1/2 - 1/8. Also you can add more coats for more texture if you want.
Τenco and Scale Motorsport give us these kind of paint. Grey and black from both and red only from SM.
I made, years ago, a tutorial in Greek.:naughty: Some photo which included maybe can help you .
http://www.scalewheels-gr.com/thread/159/
Hope it helps, especially because you use sprays often...
John18d
06-02-2016, 12:51 PM
Hey SB , if you want to texture complex shapes you might consider using primer , like Gunzes the 500 grit (not the ultra fine stuff) and spray it via airbrush at low pressure and a little more distance so that the paint particles start to dry before reaching the surface. Experiment of course is the way to go...:)
SB - Mr Hobby (Gunze) also has "liquid putty" that creates a really nice "cast" texture when sprayed through a "primer 0.8 mm airbrush.
Also Tamiya makes some "asphalt" and "concrete" diorama paints that I have used to simulate on 1/12 - you would have to test it to see if it would be applicable - the Tamiya diorama paints are acrylic paints with ground ceramic to give the "cast" texture effect. they cost about $12-15 usd each and are about 100mL bottles. and can be applied with a brush like you enjoy using.
Hope this is of help
Cheers
John
SB - Mr Hobby (Gunze) also has "liquid putty" that creates a really nice "cast" texture when sprayed through a "primer 0.8 mm airbrush.
Also Tamiya makes some "asphalt" and "concrete" diorama paints that I have used to simulate on 1/12 - you would have to test it to see if it would be applicable - the Tamiya diorama paints are acrylic paints with ground ceramic to give the "cast" texture effect. they cost about $12-15 usd each and are about 100mL bottles. and can be applied with a brush like you enjoy using.
Hope this is of help
Cheers
John
sky1911
06-02-2016, 12:53 PM
I recently saw something like those textured paints in a local DIY store (duplicolor probably) something stone effectish. I was thinking of trying it for 1/12 dashboards, but haven't bought the can yet - it's around 12€ so probably 8-10 GBP. They (dupli..) also do something like "velvet" - but I haven't seen the can in the flesh yet. For the stone types (there are several) you get an impression of the effect on the cap.
It might be the right size for your cam covers. Maybe add a generous wet coat of black or something on top to even out the dips between the sand grain like structure thingies and maybe lightly sand it again to even out the peaks, too, then follow up with another, this time light, coat of paint / colour.
May not have been Dupli-color - I need to check the pic I took on my phone, but it's something like this:
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/50/b3/87/50b3874fe8e08130290691be72837caf.jpg
It might be the right size for your cam covers. Maybe add a generous wet coat of black or something on top to even out the dips between the sand grain like structure thingies and maybe lightly sand it again to even out the peaks, too, then follow up with another, this time light, coat of paint / colour.
May not have been Dupli-color - I need to check the pic I took on my phone, but it's something like this:
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/50/b3/87/50b3874fe8e08130290691be72837caf.jpg
ScratchBuilt
06-20-2016, 11:28 AM
Outstanding, everyone - thanks again!
I tried to post this one last week before going to Le Mans, but the forum was acting-up a bit. Now I'm back and have the rest of the day off, I'll do the update.
Seriously, lots of great suggestions there - and several different ways of (hopefully) getting the desired effect. Before leaving for France I picked up a few more supplies locally:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby977_zpsmysd1b7v.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby977_zpsmysd1b7v.jpg.html)
A new can of 3M spray-mount, some fine ballast from Woodland Scenics, and a pot of 'Sandy Paste' from Acrylicos Vallejo. I made up some more test-pieces - the new can of spray-mount certainly sprayed better than the old one I had used earlier, but didn't produce enough texture for the dry-brushing to pick out. It didn't stick too well, either - I did this batch of tests using the new fine ballast, and it simply rubs off at the lightest touch. Okay - I could try spraying something on afterwards to seal it in place, but I'm not overly optimistic...
On the other hand, the new fine ballast does work well with PVA glue - see below, left. The 'Sandy Paste' is, as the name suggests, a fine sandy paste which can be painted-on as required - see below, right:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby974_zpsulraf3rk.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby974_zpsulraf3rk.jpg.html)
Right now I'm most excited by the sandy paste - I stippled it onto the test piece of styrene but wasn't impressed by the coverage at first. However I think the first coat gave the next coats something better to 'key' to, and after three applications I had the finish you see here. I'm going to try giving it a light sanding-down to remove any obvious high spots, but even as shown I think it will work.
Overall, this has been a useful exercise for me - those of you who have followed my recent projects will probably agree that although I might try various ways of making the parts, I don't experiment with textures too much. This doesn't mean I'm going to be texturing everything in sight, but I'm certainly thinking about how I can use some of these ideas on other parts - brake calipers, perhaps, maybe some of the turbo parts? We'll see.
Okay - now for a little tidying-up. Next, here's a close-up of the two little unknown intercooler valve-things, with some extra detailing added:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby972_zpsq4tf2bcx.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby972_zpsq4tf2bcx.jpg.html)
Finally made the clutch lever for the gearbox, too:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby973_zpsrezpcgjs.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby973_zpsrezpcgjs.jpg.html)
The other major project of the last couple of weeks has been back in the cockpit, working on the pedal-box area. In the photo below you can see I've added a large footrest which is pinned to a bracket on the floor, and will eventually be glued to a larger bracket hanging from below the front firewall. Getting this upper bracket right was a major pain - I couldn't do it with the parts in place, so I had to position everything, mark-up, dis-assemble, re-position using the marks, glue, then re-re-assemble to check the fit! Of course, it took maybe three or four attempts to get this done to my satisfaction...
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby975_zpspf1cvc1q.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby975_zpspf1cvc1q.jpg.html)
To the right of the footrest you can see the stay which supports the end of the pedal assembly and also shrouds the clutch cable. Either side of this there will be small fibreglass panels to give the driver somewhere to put his feet. Further right you can see a vertical cardboard panel - this is the start of a section which will eventually run down the right-hand side back to the seat, and which covers the throttle cable and also shrouds some of the pipework from the nose of the car as it runs through the cockpit. Not too many photo references for this, unfortunately, so I'm making it as best I can to fit the layout.
Here's the same area a little later:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby976_zpsda4mrzix.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby976_zpsda4mrzix.jpg.html)
The footrest has been drilled and holed as per some of the reference photos, and the fibreglass floor panels have been trimmed into place. The cardboard pattern for the throttle cable cover has been replaced with one made from fibreglass, and I'm now working on making the top cover panel for this.
In the corner where the door pillar meets the sill opening there's a white styrene construction. This is the start of the final lower mounting point for the main roll-cage structure - there's one on the other side, too. The actual joint is at the base of this structure, but I'll be disguising this and adding false mounting plates on top to match the real car. It should all be clear after the next update, honest!
That's it for now. I'll post some of my LM photos once I've had a look at them - the Friday on-track display this year wasn't as good as in previous years, unfortunately, so there wasn't too much to shoot from a modelling point of view. No chance of doing any painting in the pitlane again, either: never seen so many people around the place! Managed to pick-up a nice 1:43 1977-winning 936 for the collection, too, and spent a while checking out the (Amalgam?) 1:8 Audi and Matra in the Spark shop - 3500 Euros, though...
SB
I tried to post this one last week before going to Le Mans, but the forum was acting-up a bit. Now I'm back and have the rest of the day off, I'll do the update.
Seriously, lots of great suggestions there - and several different ways of (hopefully) getting the desired effect. Before leaving for France I picked up a few more supplies locally:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby977_zpsmysd1b7v.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby977_zpsmysd1b7v.jpg.html)
A new can of 3M spray-mount, some fine ballast from Woodland Scenics, and a pot of 'Sandy Paste' from Acrylicos Vallejo. I made up some more test-pieces - the new can of spray-mount certainly sprayed better than the old one I had used earlier, but didn't produce enough texture for the dry-brushing to pick out. It didn't stick too well, either - I did this batch of tests using the new fine ballast, and it simply rubs off at the lightest touch. Okay - I could try spraying something on afterwards to seal it in place, but I'm not overly optimistic...
On the other hand, the new fine ballast does work well with PVA glue - see below, left. The 'Sandy Paste' is, as the name suggests, a fine sandy paste which can be painted-on as required - see below, right:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby974_zpsulraf3rk.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby974_zpsulraf3rk.jpg.html)
Right now I'm most excited by the sandy paste - I stippled it onto the test piece of styrene but wasn't impressed by the coverage at first. However I think the first coat gave the next coats something better to 'key' to, and after three applications I had the finish you see here. I'm going to try giving it a light sanding-down to remove any obvious high spots, but even as shown I think it will work.
Overall, this has been a useful exercise for me - those of you who have followed my recent projects will probably agree that although I might try various ways of making the parts, I don't experiment with textures too much. This doesn't mean I'm going to be texturing everything in sight, but I'm certainly thinking about how I can use some of these ideas on other parts - brake calipers, perhaps, maybe some of the turbo parts? We'll see.
Okay - now for a little tidying-up. Next, here's a close-up of the two little unknown intercooler valve-things, with some extra detailing added:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby972_zpsq4tf2bcx.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby972_zpsq4tf2bcx.jpg.html)
Finally made the clutch lever for the gearbox, too:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby973_zpsrezpcgjs.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby973_zpsrezpcgjs.jpg.html)
The other major project of the last couple of weeks has been back in the cockpit, working on the pedal-box area. In the photo below you can see I've added a large footrest which is pinned to a bracket on the floor, and will eventually be glued to a larger bracket hanging from below the front firewall. Getting this upper bracket right was a major pain - I couldn't do it with the parts in place, so I had to position everything, mark-up, dis-assemble, re-position using the marks, glue, then re-re-assemble to check the fit! Of course, it took maybe three or four attempts to get this done to my satisfaction...
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby975_zpspf1cvc1q.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby975_zpspf1cvc1q.jpg.html)
To the right of the footrest you can see the stay which supports the end of the pedal assembly and also shrouds the clutch cable. Either side of this there will be small fibreglass panels to give the driver somewhere to put his feet. Further right you can see a vertical cardboard panel - this is the start of a section which will eventually run down the right-hand side back to the seat, and which covers the throttle cable and also shrouds some of the pipework from the nose of the car as it runs through the cockpit. Not too many photo references for this, unfortunately, so I'm making it as best I can to fit the layout.
Here's the same area a little later:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby976_zpsda4mrzix.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby976_zpsda4mrzix.jpg.html)
The footrest has been drilled and holed as per some of the reference photos, and the fibreglass floor panels have been trimmed into place. The cardboard pattern for the throttle cable cover has been replaced with one made from fibreglass, and I'm now working on making the top cover panel for this.
In the corner where the door pillar meets the sill opening there's a white styrene construction. This is the start of the final lower mounting point for the main roll-cage structure - there's one on the other side, too. The actual joint is at the base of this structure, but I'll be disguising this and adding false mounting plates on top to match the real car. It should all be clear after the next update, honest!
That's it for now. I'll post some of my LM photos once I've had a look at them - the Friday on-track display this year wasn't as good as in previous years, unfortunately, so there wasn't too much to shoot from a modelling point of view. No chance of doing any painting in the pitlane again, either: never seen so many people around the place! Managed to pick-up a nice 1:43 1977-winning 936 for the collection, too, and spent a while checking out the (Amalgam?) 1:8 Audi and Matra in the Spark shop - 3500 Euros, though...
SB
lovegt40
06-21-2016, 04:20 AM
Farina or bicarbonato di sodio mixed with paint.... Try it
ScratchBuilt
07-10-2016, 02:45 PM
Hello again,
Lots going on during the last few weeks - my main reason for not posting is that I've been jumping from one job to another and thinking 'I'll just do some more on that before I do an update...' and then going off and doing something else! However, progress is progress, and I'm now working towards being able to permanently fix the tube-frame chassis to the carbon floor. This means doing lots of little jobs now which will be much harder if I leave them until later.
First up tonight, here's an updated shot of one of the front roll-cage mounting points:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby978_zpsn8woaseh.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby978_zpsn8woaseh.jpg.html)
The styrene core now has a thin fibreglass top and side panel, and there's a fake 'foot plate' which will slide into place on final assembly. The cover for the throttle cable now has a top panel too, leaving a thin slot at the rear edge where the cable and pipework will exit.
Next, I decided to use the 'Sandy Paste' on the intercooler housings:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby979_zps7hnwym5w.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby979_zps7hnwym5w.jpg.html)
As with the test pieces it took three or four applications to get a consistent finish, but I'm pleased with the result. I had to remove the original hex-nut detailing from the six mounting flanges, as the paste needed a little cleaning-up and this was the easiest way. No problem - it also meant I could use some more of the 'Wave Option' details instead. The one in the foreground has been given a basecoat of Citadel 'Chaos Black' followed by a light drybrush with 'Scorched Brown' and 'Boltgun Metal' to make the texture stand out. Here they are on the engine:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby981_zpskhpjgxyq.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby981_zpskhpjgxyq.jpg.html)
I gave the bicarb method a try, though - it did give a slight texture, but I didn't feel it would show up on the model, even with painting. It could have a use elsewhere, of course, so I'll file it away for the future!
Next, some work on the carbon floor. It was always my intention to use the box-section outer sills as the main method of attaching the chassis to the floor. The question is: how? Well, there'll obviously be some glue involved eventually, but in the meantime I wanted something that was removable and repeatable, so that meant using some bolts. To start with I drilled four 4mm holes through the floor which lined up with the ends of the outer sills (so I could access the nuts). Short pieces of 4mm ali tube would fit through these holes and act as dowels to locate the parts together. Finally, some short M3 buttonhead screws and plain nuts would clamp the whole lot together:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby983_zpspilhjemb.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby983_zpspilhjemb.jpg.html)
I've also added a pair of small brackets in the front of the chassis frame which give me two more fixing screws - these will be hidden when the fuel tank is dropped into place later.
Finally, I've been spending some time detailing the front inner wheelarch panels, as these need to be fitted between the main chassis and the outer sills. Here's the left-hand panel:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby984_zpspdoc09vx.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby984_zpspdoc09vx.jpg.html)
You can see that I've added three recessed holes of varying shapes and sizes (the largest being where the fuel filler neck would be on the original 911 road car), and some rib detailing made from half-round strip. There's still a few more holes, etc, to add but these are the main features; the right-hand side has received similar attention.
The short section at the front end closes off the gap between the strut top mounting and the main wheelarch. On the real car this appears to be a fibreglass extension, but I've made mine as fabricated parts. The white styrene tube will be greenstuffed later to blend in with the main fibreglass section. I might have been able to make life easier by moulding these panels as one piece right from the start, rather than cutting them short, but it hasn't been difficult doing it this way:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby985_zpsddqdyxwy.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby985_zpsddqdyxwy.jpg.html)
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby986_zpsnc40c0yx.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby986_zpsnc40c0yx.jpg.html)
So, this just leaves the side panels which will close off the nose of the chassis. I started making some cardboard patterns for these a while ago, so I'll return to those and see what I can do. Then I need to do some tests to check the assembly sequence: if I fit and glue A, B, C and D, can I still fit E, and still be able to paint B and D afterwards?!
That's why everything takes so much time, and why I've not been in a hurry to paint anything. I can't avoid it forever, though, so that's why I need to get the chassis fixed to the floor during the next few weeks - this will open up several more jobs I can do, and start the assembly process.
All the best,
SB
Lots going on during the last few weeks - my main reason for not posting is that I've been jumping from one job to another and thinking 'I'll just do some more on that before I do an update...' and then going off and doing something else! However, progress is progress, and I'm now working towards being able to permanently fix the tube-frame chassis to the carbon floor. This means doing lots of little jobs now which will be much harder if I leave them until later.
First up tonight, here's an updated shot of one of the front roll-cage mounting points:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby978_zpsn8woaseh.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby978_zpsn8woaseh.jpg.html)
The styrene core now has a thin fibreglass top and side panel, and there's a fake 'foot plate' which will slide into place on final assembly. The cover for the throttle cable now has a top panel too, leaving a thin slot at the rear edge where the cable and pipework will exit.
Next, I decided to use the 'Sandy Paste' on the intercooler housings:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby979_zps7hnwym5w.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby979_zps7hnwym5w.jpg.html)
As with the test pieces it took three or four applications to get a consistent finish, but I'm pleased with the result. I had to remove the original hex-nut detailing from the six mounting flanges, as the paste needed a little cleaning-up and this was the easiest way. No problem - it also meant I could use some more of the 'Wave Option' details instead. The one in the foreground has been given a basecoat of Citadel 'Chaos Black' followed by a light drybrush with 'Scorched Brown' and 'Boltgun Metal' to make the texture stand out. Here they are on the engine:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby981_zpskhpjgxyq.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby981_zpskhpjgxyq.jpg.html)
I gave the bicarb method a try, though - it did give a slight texture, but I didn't feel it would show up on the model, even with painting. It could have a use elsewhere, of course, so I'll file it away for the future!
Next, some work on the carbon floor. It was always my intention to use the box-section outer sills as the main method of attaching the chassis to the floor. The question is: how? Well, there'll obviously be some glue involved eventually, but in the meantime I wanted something that was removable and repeatable, so that meant using some bolts. To start with I drilled four 4mm holes through the floor which lined up with the ends of the outer sills (so I could access the nuts). Short pieces of 4mm ali tube would fit through these holes and act as dowels to locate the parts together. Finally, some short M3 buttonhead screws and plain nuts would clamp the whole lot together:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby983_zpspilhjemb.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby983_zpspilhjemb.jpg.html)
I've also added a pair of small brackets in the front of the chassis frame which give me two more fixing screws - these will be hidden when the fuel tank is dropped into place later.
Finally, I've been spending some time detailing the front inner wheelarch panels, as these need to be fitted between the main chassis and the outer sills. Here's the left-hand panel:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby984_zpspdoc09vx.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby984_zpspdoc09vx.jpg.html)
You can see that I've added three recessed holes of varying shapes and sizes (the largest being where the fuel filler neck would be on the original 911 road car), and some rib detailing made from half-round strip. There's still a few more holes, etc, to add but these are the main features; the right-hand side has received similar attention.
The short section at the front end closes off the gap between the strut top mounting and the main wheelarch. On the real car this appears to be a fibreglass extension, but I've made mine as fabricated parts. The white styrene tube will be greenstuffed later to blend in with the main fibreglass section. I might have been able to make life easier by moulding these panels as one piece right from the start, rather than cutting them short, but it hasn't been difficult doing it this way:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby985_zpsddqdyxwy.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby985_zpsddqdyxwy.jpg.html)
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby986_zpsnc40c0yx.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby986_zpsnc40c0yx.jpg.html)
So, this just leaves the side panels which will close off the nose of the chassis. I started making some cardboard patterns for these a while ago, so I'll return to those and see what I can do. Then I need to do some tests to check the assembly sequence: if I fit and glue A, B, C and D, can I still fit E, and still be able to paint B and D afterwards?!
That's why everything takes so much time, and why I've not been in a hurry to paint anything. I can't avoid it forever, though, so that's why I need to get the chassis fixed to the floor during the next few weeks - this will open up several more jobs I can do, and start the assembly process.
All the best,
SB
88Porsche944
07-10-2016, 08:35 PM
Another amazing update!
Trevor
Trevor
ScratchBuilt
07-25-2016, 03:34 PM
Hello again,
Slowly moving towards the time when I can start fixing some of this stuff together. I'm just trying to do as much as I can before that point, as there's bound to be something I forget to do which instantly becomes twice as difficult when the floor is attached!
First up, here's the main inner sides panels for the nosebox in an early stage:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby987_zpsvt28s5d5.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby987_zpsvt28s5d5.jpg.html)
I'd made the cardboard patterns for these ages ago, but now was the time to cut them from sheet fibreglass. The cut-outs around the suspension strut top mount were tricky, but I've been able to do them without being too gappy. This particular lay-up came out at 0.55mm thick, but it's quite flexible - the innermost section is vertical where it meets the wheelarch, but it then twists slightly as it moves forward along the nose of the chassis. The cut-outs for the wishbone and steering help it to flex, too.
Here's the view from above:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby988_zps8uqbs2fq.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby988_zps8uqbs2fq.jpg.html)
Since taking this photo I've opened out the holes around the leading leg of the wishbones, and made two curved sections which will blend the panel around the inside. There's also some small holes for where the two ali nose support frames will attach later. In the middle you can see the two extra brackets added to the chassis to attach to the floor - these will be covered once the fuel tank is in place.
Next, I made two small internal panels which close-off the lower part of the nose of the car, behind the oil tank and fuel tank:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby989_zpsjl2wpepi.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby989_zpsjl2wpepi.jpg.html)
Neither are totally accurate to the real thing, but are the result of how I made the oil tank and fuel tank months ago. These will both be painted and glued into place later.
Given that I've recently been trying to work out an assembly sequence, this also has to include parts such as the water and oil pipes running around the front of the chassis. Some of these have to pass through or into some of the body panels, so have been added to the sequence. Here's the right-hand side:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby991_zps2duvjab7.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby991_zps2duvjab7.jpg.html)
Here you can see how the hole in the side panel for the wishbone and steering has been opened out, with a stepped front edge to match the interior panel. The small hole at the top of the photo is where the front roll-bar will go - this will have to be modified slightly to allow for the adjuster mechanism to pass through.
The bottom edge of the side panel and front bulkhead has been trimmed away so that the lower oil pipe is exposed, whereas the longer water pipe running to the intercooler comes out of the wheelarch, through a notch in the sidepanel, then through a hole in the bulkhead before attaching to the chassis. Currently this pipe is one-piece, but I might consider splitting it to make installation easier.
My early thoughts on the assembly sequence concluded that the front firewall / dashboard panel would have to be fitted at the same time as the main roll-cage, as it would be impossible to add it afterwards. However, there's just too much stuff to sort out under there, and trying to do it with this panel in place would be incredibly difficult. So, I think I have the solution...
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby993_zpscdiejum1.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby993_zpscdiejum1.jpg.html)
I've trimmed a section from the left-hand side of the firewall - this allows me to hook the right-hand side of the panel around the roll-cage, then rotate the whole lot into place through the cockpit. The panel you can see here with the two holes will eventually camouflage the join when the extra piece of firewall is replaced. I've added some styrene strip along the bottom to provide a step to locate the base, and a length of angle along the underside of the wheelarch panel will secure the top.
I've done something similar on the other side, too. The firewall is intact, but the inner panel includes a cut-out to fit around the wash-bottle mounting, and two holes for routing various oil and fuel lines through into the cockpit - you can see two more holes through the firewall behind:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby992_zps9pjdce7h.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby992_zps9pjdce7h.jpg.html)
So, I reckon that I'll now be able to fit the wheelarch panels, main roll-cage, front bulkhead and the nose side panels, then drop the firewall on top to complete the structure. This should allow me to do most of the footwell detailing from above with relatively easy access. I can also detail the underside of the firewall before it goes in (wiring, electrical boxes, etc), which should help.
Making progress...
SB
Slowly moving towards the time when I can start fixing some of this stuff together. I'm just trying to do as much as I can before that point, as there's bound to be something I forget to do which instantly becomes twice as difficult when the floor is attached!
First up, here's the main inner sides panels for the nosebox in an early stage:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby987_zpsvt28s5d5.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby987_zpsvt28s5d5.jpg.html)
I'd made the cardboard patterns for these ages ago, but now was the time to cut them from sheet fibreglass. The cut-outs around the suspension strut top mount were tricky, but I've been able to do them without being too gappy. This particular lay-up came out at 0.55mm thick, but it's quite flexible - the innermost section is vertical where it meets the wheelarch, but it then twists slightly as it moves forward along the nose of the chassis. The cut-outs for the wishbone and steering help it to flex, too.
Here's the view from above:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby988_zps8uqbs2fq.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby988_zps8uqbs2fq.jpg.html)
Since taking this photo I've opened out the holes around the leading leg of the wishbones, and made two curved sections which will blend the panel around the inside. There's also some small holes for where the two ali nose support frames will attach later. In the middle you can see the two extra brackets added to the chassis to attach to the floor - these will be covered once the fuel tank is in place.
Next, I made two small internal panels which close-off the lower part of the nose of the car, behind the oil tank and fuel tank:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby989_zpsjl2wpepi.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby989_zpsjl2wpepi.jpg.html)
Neither are totally accurate to the real thing, but are the result of how I made the oil tank and fuel tank months ago. These will both be painted and glued into place later.
Given that I've recently been trying to work out an assembly sequence, this also has to include parts such as the water and oil pipes running around the front of the chassis. Some of these have to pass through or into some of the body panels, so have been added to the sequence. Here's the right-hand side:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby991_zps2duvjab7.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby991_zps2duvjab7.jpg.html)
Here you can see how the hole in the side panel for the wishbone and steering has been opened out, with a stepped front edge to match the interior panel. The small hole at the top of the photo is where the front roll-bar will go - this will have to be modified slightly to allow for the adjuster mechanism to pass through.
The bottom edge of the side panel and front bulkhead has been trimmed away so that the lower oil pipe is exposed, whereas the longer water pipe running to the intercooler comes out of the wheelarch, through a notch in the sidepanel, then through a hole in the bulkhead before attaching to the chassis. Currently this pipe is one-piece, but I might consider splitting it to make installation easier.
My early thoughts on the assembly sequence concluded that the front firewall / dashboard panel would have to be fitted at the same time as the main roll-cage, as it would be impossible to add it afterwards. However, there's just too much stuff to sort out under there, and trying to do it with this panel in place would be incredibly difficult. So, I think I have the solution...
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby993_zpscdiejum1.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby993_zpscdiejum1.jpg.html)
I've trimmed a section from the left-hand side of the firewall - this allows me to hook the right-hand side of the panel around the roll-cage, then rotate the whole lot into place through the cockpit. The panel you can see here with the two holes will eventually camouflage the join when the extra piece of firewall is replaced. I've added some styrene strip along the bottom to provide a step to locate the base, and a length of angle along the underside of the wheelarch panel will secure the top.
I've done something similar on the other side, too. The firewall is intact, but the inner panel includes a cut-out to fit around the wash-bottle mounting, and two holes for routing various oil and fuel lines through into the cockpit - you can see two more holes through the firewall behind:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby992_zps9pjdce7h.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby992_zps9pjdce7h.jpg.html)
So, I reckon that I'll now be able to fit the wheelarch panels, main roll-cage, front bulkhead and the nose side panels, then drop the firewall on top to complete the structure. This should allow me to do most of the footwell detailing from above with relatively easy access. I can also detail the underside of the firewall before it goes in (wiring, electrical boxes, etc), which should help.
Making progress...
SB
da_ashman
07-25-2016, 08:13 PM
Always Amazing!!!
ScratchBuilt
08-07-2016, 02:49 PM
Continuing with detailing in the front of the car, after fiddling around with some of the oil pipes in the previous update I remembered that I needed to add a cold-oil return into the system:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby994_zps8whby2rt.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby994_zps8whby2rt.jpg.html)
This small valve unit will attach to the upper X-frame and allows the cold oil to return to the main tank without having to pass through the cooler in the nose. At a pre-determined temperature the valve closes and the warm oil can be cooled.
Next, a slight change of scene: windscreen. I started the next job by taping some draughting film to the roof section:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby995_zpsgax8xxyc.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby995_zpsgax8xxyc.jpg.html)
After cutting this out, it was obvious that the top edge of the windscreen opening needed some modification - the curvature of the screen didn't match. So, the first job was to create a lager lip around the inside edge with thin strip styrene - this will give me a firm fixing point for the screen later on. Next, I built up the top edge of the roof with wider styrene strips to get the approximate shape I wanted:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby996_zps8xveuqsb.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby996_zps8xveuqsb.jpg.html)
After some filler and fettling, I ended up with this:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby997_zpsf27cs0io.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby997_zpsf27cs0io.jpg.html)
I've since obtained some thicker (0.6mm) clear plastic to use as the screen, so it won't be long before I cut what will hopefully be the final version. I've just got to work out (a) how I glue it in place and (b) how I add a 'seal' around the outside to camouflage the join.
Next up - windscreen wiper. This is one of those parts that is so thin and fiddly that accuracy of the design is not the main concern - it's about making something that doesn't fall apart when you look at it! So, I turned a length of 1.6mm I-beam into a T-beam and used this as the blade, then added the arms made from thin strips of curved fibreglass:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby998_zpswzvligsy.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby998_zpswzvligsy.jpg.html)
I didn't want to use styrene strip for the arms as I wanted to avoid the possibility of distortion. The main wiper arm is a length of plastic-coated wire rod, so this can be trimmed and bent to shape as required.
After this, it made sense to make the wiper motor and drive assembly (even though it's buried away under the dashboard). There are no shots of this amongst the Freisinger photos, so I dug around online for appropriate images of regular 911's and used these as the main reference. Although the mechanism can drive a normal pair of wiper blades, many photos of the factory car show it with just a single wiper on the driver's side.
Here's the mechanism plugged into the underside of the windscreen surround:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby999_zpskikstgqq.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby999_zpskikstgqq.jpg.html)
...and flipped the right way up:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1000_zpsssmlyjsa.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1000_zpsssmlyjsa.jpg.html)
The measurements are all based on best-guesses and what-fits. The linkage isn't intended to be functional - it's just got to look 'kinda right'. I just need to do a little tidying of the pinned joints and add a few little details to the motor section. One side-effect of fitting this into place is that I now have to modify the dashboard top to fit around it - that's another job for the coming week.
So, a bit of variety for this update. I've also been getting some supplies in place for some spray-painting - the bare-carbon floor might not be 'natural' for too much longer...
All the best,
SB
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby994_zps8whby2rt.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby994_zps8whby2rt.jpg.html)
This small valve unit will attach to the upper X-frame and allows the cold oil to return to the main tank without having to pass through the cooler in the nose. At a pre-determined temperature the valve closes and the warm oil can be cooled.
Next, a slight change of scene: windscreen. I started the next job by taping some draughting film to the roof section:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby995_zpsgax8xxyc.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby995_zpsgax8xxyc.jpg.html)
After cutting this out, it was obvious that the top edge of the windscreen opening needed some modification - the curvature of the screen didn't match. So, the first job was to create a lager lip around the inside edge with thin strip styrene - this will give me a firm fixing point for the screen later on. Next, I built up the top edge of the roof with wider styrene strips to get the approximate shape I wanted:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby996_zps8xveuqsb.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby996_zps8xveuqsb.jpg.html)
After some filler and fettling, I ended up with this:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby997_zpsf27cs0io.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby997_zpsf27cs0io.jpg.html)
I've since obtained some thicker (0.6mm) clear plastic to use as the screen, so it won't be long before I cut what will hopefully be the final version. I've just got to work out (a) how I glue it in place and (b) how I add a 'seal' around the outside to camouflage the join.
Next up - windscreen wiper. This is one of those parts that is so thin and fiddly that accuracy of the design is not the main concern - it's about making something that doesn't fall apart when you look at it! So, I turned a length of 1.6mm I-beam into a T-beam and used this as the blade, then added the arms made from thin strips of curved fibreglass:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby998_zpswzvligsy.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby998_zpswzvligsy.jpg.html)
I didn't want to use styrene strip for the arms as I wanted to avoid the possibility of distortion. The main wiper arm is a length of plastic-coated wire rod, so this can be trimmed and bent to shape as required.
After this, it made sense to make the wiper motor and drive assembly (even though it's buried away under the dashboard). There are no shots of this amongst the Freisinger photos, so I dug around online for appropriate images of regular 911's and used these as the main reference. Although the mechanism can drive a normal pair of wiper blades, many photos of the factory car show it with just a single wiper on the driver's side.
Here's the mechanism plugged into the underside of the windscreen surround:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby999_zpskikstgqq.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby999_zpskikstgqq.jpg.html)
...and flipped the right way up:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1000_zpsssmlyjsa.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1000_zpsssmlyjsa.jpg.html)
The measurements are all based on best-guesses and what-fits. The linkage isn't intended to be functional - it's just got to look 'kinda right'. I just need to do a little tidying of the pinned joints and add a few little details to the motor section. One side-effect of fitting this into place is that I now have to modify the dashboard top to fit around it - that's another job for the coming week.
So, a bit of variety for this update. I've also been getting some supplies in place for some spray-painting - the bare-carbon floor might not be 'natural' for too much longer...
All the best,
SB
Brandon Miller
08-07-2016, 09:03 PM
Holy $&@! Batman! That windshield wiper and motor are insane.
nugundam93
08-08-2016, 10:53 PM
Holy $&@! Batman! That windshield wiper and motor are insane.
agreed! :smokin:
SB, please tell us this wiper assembly will move when done ;)
agreed! :smokin:
SB, please tell us this wiper assembly will move when done ;)
ScratchBuilt
08-22-2016, 04:20 PM
Sorry folks, the wiper is strictly non-functional! You won't see much of the motor mechanism once it's all assembled, but it's all about adding as much detail as I can - I don't want things to look empty.
So, what's new this week? First up, to close-off the gap between the top of the dashboard and the window edge, I added a curved strip of fibreglass:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1001_zpsxp8hslyt.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1001_zpsxp8hslyt.jpg.html)
From the front you can see where I've cut the leading edge away to fit around the wiper assembly, and the strip of angle-section styrene which reinforces the join:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1002_zps9jkoprah.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1002_zps9jkoprah.jpg.html)
Next, time to start preparing for painting. Here's the floor panel after a light sanding, a wipe with some thinners, and the chassis tubes masked:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1005_zpsxs4ld2ri.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1005_zpsxs4ld2ri.jpg.html)
The main roll-cage and chassis needed a little final detailing too - as well as odd bits of greenstuff here and there, I added the support tubes for the harness shoulder-straps and the headrest:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1003_zpsie9kamer.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1003_zpsie9kamer.jpg.html)
Here's the headrest pad and backing plate:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1004_zpsvdpxakkp.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1004_zpsvdpxakkp.jpg.html)
...and the main chassis masked and ready:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1006_zpsfyg8rumt.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1006_zpsfyg8rumt.jpg.html)
So, by now I've run out of excuses not to start painting. The main chassis and roll cage were sprayed with Mr Surfacer 1200 Grey Primer:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1007_zps8q4ojxkr.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1007_zps8q4ojxkr.jpg.html)
As always, it makes an immediate difference! The floor panel was primered in a similar fashion, then sprayed with Tamiya IJN Grey (straight from the can). The main chassis and cage were airbrushed (yes, really!) with three coats of Tamiya acrylic XF16 Flat Aluminium, with light rubbing down between each one:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1008_zpst3asymhu.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1008_zpst3asymhu.jpg.html)
The two inner sill panels were primered and airbrushed with XF1 Flat Black - these are a bit experimental right now as I wanted to see how the flat black would look. Most of the interior will be black, so I might end up using a few variations - some of the panels are supposed to be steel, some fibreglass, etc, so it doesn't all want to be a high-gloss finish. Here's a couple of detail shots of the frame:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1009_zps7qxqfute.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1009_zps7qxqfute.jpg.html)
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1010_zpsf3kymwbh.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1010_zpsf3kymwbh.jpg.html)
I'm tempted to pick out the welds with a slightly different shade of silver - might give this a try somewhere out of the way before tackling the whole frame. The floor panel is not glued on yet - I feel that the grey needs a bit of depth adding and needs the 'newness' taking off, but I don't want to go overboard with weathering effects. I've got some other grey shades on order so will try to get it looking better at the weekend, before assembling everything.
If anyone's interested, I mixed the Tamiya paints 50:50 with their thinners and sprayed at about 20psi. Seemed to work really well - I can't remember now why I had so much trouble getting it right when I did the 917-10! My main concern with using the airbrush is how I'm going to handle touching-up any odd little bits once the main assembly process is underway - but I guess it's nothing that plenty of masking can't handle.
To finish up tonight, here's the headrest pad and plate after painting. The pad was given a couple of coats of the 'Sandy Paste' to give it some texture and was painted by hand with Citadel paints. The mounting plate was given a quick airbrush with Flat Aluminium to match the rest of the frame:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1011_zpselsbauyw.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1011_zpselsbauyw.jpg.html)
Finally, I've started working on some of the various electrical control boxes which will be mounted under the dashboard. There's a few photos of these on the Freisinger car and other sources, but the main components are all very similar to those used on the earlier 908, 917, etc, so that gives me even more references. These will all have to be painted, wired-up and attached to the bulkhead panel, before it gets fitted into the frame.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1012_zpsnbu9zrto.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1012_zpsnbu9zrto.jpg.html)
Definitely making progress now! I can see I'm going to be spending a fortune on primer spray, for a start, and will be getting more familiar with Tamiya's paint range. I've already got the fuel tank and oil tank pencilled-in as some of the next parts for airbrushing, so we'll see how that goes. The problem with the fuel tank, of course, is that it's the one part that should (effectively) be natural fibreglass in colour, but is made from styrene sheet. It's going to be tricky getting the colouring and texture acceptable, without any texture to pick out...
Have a good week,
SB
So, what's new this week? First up, to close-off the gap between the top of the dashboard and the window edge, I added a curved strip of fibreglass:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1001_zpsxp8hslyt.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1001_zpsxp8hslyt.jpg.html)
From the front you can see where I've cut the leading edge away to fit around the wiper assembly, and the strip of angle-section styrene which reinforces the join:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1002_zps9jkoprah.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1002_zps9jkoprah.jpg.html)
Next, time to start preparing for painting. Here's the floor panel after a light sanding, a wipe with some thinners, and the chassis tubes masked:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1005_zpsxs4ld2ri.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1005_zpsxs4ld2ri.jpg.html)
The main roll-cage and chassis needed a little final detailing too - as well as odd bits of greenstuff here and there, I added the support tubes for the harness shoulder-straps and the headrest:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1003_zpsie9kamer.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1003_zpsie9kamer.jpg.html)
Here's the headrest pad and backing plate:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1004_zpsvdpxakkp.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1004_zpsvdpxakkp.jpg.html)
...and the main chassis masked and ready:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1006_zpsfyg8rumt.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1006_zpsfyg8rumt.jpg.html)
So, by now I've run out of excuses not to start painting. The main chassis and roll cage were sprayed with Mr Surfacer 1200 Grey Primer:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1007_zps8q4ojxkr.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1007_zps8q4ojxkr.jpg.html)
As always, it makes an immediate difference! The floor panel was primered in a similar fashion, then sprayed with Tamiya IJN Grey (straight from the can). The main chassis and cage were airbrushed (yes, really!) with three coats of Tamiya acrylic XF16 Flat Aluminium, with light rubbing down between each one:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1008_zpst3asymhu.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1008_zpst3asymhu.jpg.html)
The two inner sill panels were primered and airbrushed with XF1 Flat Black - these are a bit experimental right now as I wanted to see how the flat black would look. Most of the interior will be black, so I might end up using a few variations - some of the panels are supposed to be steel, some fibreglass, etc, so it doesn't all want to be a high-gloss finish. Here's a couple of detail shots of the frame:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1009_zps7qxqfute.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1009_zps7qxqfute.jpg.html)
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1010_zpsf3kymwbh.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1010_zpsf3kymwbh.jpg.html)
I'm tempted to pick out the welds with a slightly different shade of silver - might give this a try somewhere out of the way before tackling the whole frame. The floor panel is not glued on yet - I feel that the grey needs a bit of depth adding and needs the 'newness' taking off, but I don't want to go overboard with weathering effects. I've got some other grey shades on order so will try to get it looking better at the weekend, before assembling everything.
If anyone's interested, I mixed the Tamiya paints 50:50 with their thinners and sprayed at about 20psi. Seemed to work really well - I can't remember now why I had so much trouble getting it right when I did the 917-10! My main concern with using the airbrush is how I'm going to handle touching-up any odd little bits once the main assembly process is underway - but I guess it's nothing that plenty of masking can't handle.
To finish up tonight, here's the headrest pad and plate after painting. The pad was given a couple of coats of the 'Sandy Paste' to give it some texture and was painted by hand with Citadel paints. The mounting plate was given a quick airbrush with Flat Aluminium to match the rest of the frame:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1011_zpselsbauyw.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1011_zpselsbauyw.jpg.html)
Finally, I've started working on some of the various electrical control boxes which will be mounted under the dashboard. There's a few photos of these on the Freisinger car and other sources, but the main components are all very similar to those used on the earlier 908, 917, etc, so that gives me even more references. These will all have to be painted, wired-up and attached to the bulkhead panel, before it gets fitted into the frame.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1012_zpsnbu9zrto.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1012_zpsnbu9zrto.jpg.html)
Definitely making progress now! I can see I'm going to be spending a fortune on primer spray, for a start, and will be getting more familiar with Tamiya's paint range. I've already got the fuel tank and oil tank pencilled-in as some of the next parts for airbrushing, so we'll see how that goes. The problem with the fuel tank, of course, is that it's the one part that should (effectively) be natural fibreglass in colour, but is made from styrene sheet. It's going to be tricky getting the colouring and texture acceptable, without any texture to pick out...
Have a good week,
SB
JesusM
08-22-2016, 06:31 PM
Thanks for sharing it!!!
stump
08-23-2016, 12:28 AM
OMG!! SB at his brilliant best. :)
A coat of paint on the chassis, even without picking out bits of the weld seams, this has to be the defining point and an indication this is headed to a fantastic finale..:cool:
Chassis is smokin' HOT!!
GREAT work Simon.
Cheers Greg
A coat of paint on the chassis, even without picking out bits of the weld seams, this has to be the defining point and an indication this is headed to a fantastic finale..:cool:
Chassis is smokin' HOT!!
GREAT work Simon.
Cheers Greg
mrceej
08-23-2016, 10:51 AM
Been watching along all these years (along with the other Porsche build) and I've been waiting for this time period to come. Adding the paint always brings out the realism for everyone and I'm sure that many of us are excited to see the next few progress posts.
The primered frame caught me off guard. If it weren't for the work bench I would've thought it was a real frame for the real thing being restored.
The primered frame caught me off guard. If it weren't for the work bench I would've thought it was a real frame for the real thing being restored.
da_ashman
08-23-2016, 08:20 PM
Great to see some paint on her, sad to see the beautiful Carbon fibre floor pan covered in paint, but I guess they werent using it back in the 70s...
Cant wait to see more!!
Cant wait to see more!!
ScratchBuilt
09-19-2016, 04:02 PM
Back again!
Apologies for the gap in updates. As has happened before, it's not due to a lack of progress - it's more that I've been working on lots of different things, none of them particularly 'big', but they look better when presented together!
So, what's up first? The electrical control boxes have been temporarily mounted in place under the front firewall - still plenty to do here as everything needs to be wired-up. I made the decision to modify the lower dashboard panel to have the extra stack of dials in front of the gear-shift mounting - this is more like the original factory car, rather than the Freisinger reference photos:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1013_zpssv5jqy8a.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1013_zpssv5jqy8a.jpg.html)
I'll have to add a short length of angle to the lower frame tubes to secure the bottom edge of the extra panel, and there'll be some extra detailing at the top, too.
Still on the subject of instruments and dashboards, I spent a good part of a Saturday morning examining all the reference photos trying to work out what all the different gauges were actually for! Two A4 pages of notes later, and I'm happy that I've got it all sorted out. So, here's the start of the main cluster of gauges:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1014_zpsycoyfcqi.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1014_zpsycoyfcqi.jpg.html)
The little one on the far left is the gearbox oil temperature, then the main five are for turbo boost, fuel pressure, tacho, oil pressure and engine temperature. The extra panel in front of the gearshift will have two pairs of water temperature and pressure gauges for the two cylinder head cooling circuits, plus an extra temperature gauge for the intercooler system. Add in some switches, warning lights, etc, and I'll have a full set of controls!
Instead of cutting clear plastic discs to fit into the gauges, I decided to try something different. I bought a bottle of Vallejo 'Water Texture' and made some test gauges to try it out:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1015_zpsqhbxswfy.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1015_zpsqhbxswfy.jpg.html)
Not the best photo, but you can see the effect I'm aiming for. Once the dial is painted and detailed, the Water Texture can be poured in to create the 'glass'.
Next, I returned to the fire bottles. Close inspection of photos showed that the original car used a 'Heinzmann' system. So, go online and find more photos...or not! Seems like these Heinzmann systems are rather expensive and probably very desirable as a 'period feature' in '70's racing Porsches. I found some shots of various systems and installations, and managed to work out what was going on with the -78's set-up. This is what I've ended up with:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1016_zpssttzj01v.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1016_zpssttzj01v.jpg.html)
The two pull-cables will pass through the top of the upright section in the rear bottle, connect to the lever on the end, then continue to a similar lever on the second bottle. One pull-cable in the cockpit, one between the windscreen and the bonnet - pull either and you set off both bottles. I've still got to make the cables, add the extinguisher pipework, and sort out how I'm going to make decals for the labels.
Amongst all these other jobs I've been continuing with some painting. The first panels to be attached to the frame will be the door sills and the front inner wheelarches. After adding some hex-nut detailing to the top, I gave both panels a coat of primer:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1017_zpsye82e38t.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1017_zpsye82e38t.jpg.html)
As usual, they looked a bit rough after the first coat so needed a little more flatting and smoothing. The weld detailing around the airjack supports needs a little work to make it more noticeable, I think, so I'll do that before the next primer coat.
Finally, the frame has been glued to the floor. Despite painting both parts last month, I've been reluctant to put them together for fear of messing things up. However, the need to make progress has won, so this was the project for Saturday evening. I couldn't use CA glue over the whole frame then fix it down in one hit - it would have gone off before I finished putting it on! So, I used 'Uhu' on the inner sill tubes, then a little CA at the front, then put it together using the outer sill sections to get everything in the right place (using the little aluminium dowels described a while ago). I've then run-in more CA glue into the gaps between the tubes and the floor, so most of the main lower tubes now have two seams of glue bonding them to the carbon. The extra bits of fibreglass 'strapping' will be added later as reinforcement.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1018_zpsgqwsfcag.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1018_zpsgqwsfcag.jpg.html)
The outer sills are not fixed yet - I have to add the fibreglass panels between them first. I should be able to get a really good glue bond with these, plus they'll be pinned through to the inner tubes, and bolted through to the floor at each end. Once they're on, it'll be as secure as I can make it - hopefully I can have this done for the next update.
That's it for tonight. Now I've got the frame attached to the floor I can start adding some of the interior panels and other detailing, ahead of fitting the top section of the roll-cage, front firewall, etc. I'm aware that there's still a lot of fine detailing to be done, so I don't want to get carried away with fitting things then find I've caused myself a big problem somewhere down the line. After spending over four years on this project now ('seems like longer', I hear you say!) I don't want to mess things up...
Have a good week,
SB
Apologies for the gap in updates. As has happened before, it's not due to a lack of progress - it's more that I've been working on lots of different things, none of them particularly 'big', but they look better when presented together!
So, what's up first? The electrical control boxes have been temporarily mounted in place under the front firewall - still plenty to do here as everything needs to be wired-up. I made the decision to modify the lower dashboard panel to have the extra stack of dials in front of the gear-shift mounting - this is more like the original factory car, rather than the Freisinger reference photos:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1013_zpssv5jqy8a.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1013_zpssv5jqy8a.jpg.html)
I'll have to add a short length of angle to the lower frame tubes to secure the bottom edge of the extra panel, and there'll be some extra detailing at the top, too.
Still on the subject of instruments and dashboards, I spent a good part of a Saturday morning examining all the reference photos trying to work out what all the different gauges were actually for! Two A4 pages of notes later, and I'm happy that I've got it all sorted out. So, here's the start of the main cluster of gauges:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1014_zpsycoyfcqi.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1014_zpsycoyfcqi.jpg.html)
The little one on the far left is the gearbox oil temperature, then the main five are for turbo boost, fuel pressure, tacho, oil pressure and engine temperature. The extra panel in front of the gearshift will have two pairs of water temperature and pressure gauges for the two cylinder head cooling circuits, plus an extra temperature gauge for the intercooler system. Add in some switches, warning lights, etc, and I'll have a full set of controls!
Instead of cutting clear plastic discs to fit into the gauges, I decided to try something different. I bought a bottle of Vallejo 'Water Texture' and made some test gauges to try it out:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1015_zpsqhbxswfy.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1015_zpsqhbxswfy.jpg.html)
Not the best photo, but you can see the effect I'm aiming for. Once the dial is painted and detailed, the Water Texture can be poured in to create the 'glass'.
Next, I returned to the fire bottles. Close inspection of photos showed that the original car used a 'Heinzmann' system. So, go online and find more photos...or not! Seems like these Heinzmann systems are rather expensive and probably very desirable as a 'period feature' in '70's racing Porsches. I found some shots of various systems and installations, and managed to work out what was going on with the -78's set-up. This is what I've ended up with:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1016_zpssttzj01v.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1016_zpssttzj01v.jpg.html)
The two pull-cables will pass through the top of the upright section in the rear bottle, connect to the lever on the end, then continue to a similar lever on the second bottle. One pull-cable in the cockpit, one between the windscreen and the bonnet - pull either and you set off both bottles. I've still got to make the cables, add the extinguisher pipework, and sort out how I'm going to make decals for the labels.
Amongst all these other jobs I've been continuing with some painting. The first panels to be attached to the frame will be the door sills and the front inner wheelarches. After adding some hex-nut detailing to the top, I gave both panels a coat of primer:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1017_zpsye82e38t.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1017_zpsye82e38t.jpg.html)
As usual, they looked a bit rough after the first coat so needed a little more flatting and smoothing. The weld detailing around the airjack supports needs a little work to make it more noticeable, I think, so I'll do that before the next primer coat.
Finally, the frame has been glued to the floor. Despite painting both parts last month, I've been reluctant to put them together for fear of messing things up. However, the need to make progress has won, so this was the project for Saturday evening. I couldn't use CA glue over the whole frame then fix it down in one hit - it would have gone off before I finished putting it on! So, I used 'Uhu' on the inner sill tubes, then a little CA at the front, then put it together using the outer sill sections to get everything in the right place (using the little aluminium dowels described a while ago). I've then run-in more CA glue into the gaps between the tubes and the floor, so most of the main lower tubes now have two seams of glue bonding them to the carbon. The extra bits of fibreglass 'strapping' will be added later as reinforcement.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1018_zpsgqwsfcag.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1018_zpsgqwsfcag.jpg.html)
The outer sills are not fixed yet - I have to add the fibreglass panels between them first. I should be able to get a really good glue bond with these, plus they'll be pinned through to the inner tubes, and bolted through to the floor at each end. Once they're on, it'll be as secure as I can make it - hopefully I can have this done for the next update.
That's it for tonight. Now I've got the frame attached to the floor I can start adding some of the interior panels and other detailing, ahead of fitting the top section of the roll-cage, front firewall, etc. I'm aware that there's still a lot of fine detailing to be done, so I don't want to get carried away with fitting things then find I've caused myself a big problem somewhere down the line. After spending over four years on this project now ('seems like longer', I hear you say!) I don't want to mess things up...
Have a good week,
SB
jaykay640
09-19-2016, 06:39 PM
Gosh, here we go! Now it really comes alive!
ScratchBuilt
10-03-2016, 03:11 PM
Yep, here we go! It's daft - now I'm actually starting to assemble a few of the parts, there's still a voice in my head saying 'woah - don't rush it!'
So, what's new tonight? The big news is that I finally attached the front and rear fibreglass sill panels:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1020_zpsgabgvz2l.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1020_zpsgabgvz2l.jpg.html)
I re-primered the front wheel-arch panels, then sprayed everything with a basecoat of Tamiya Flat Black, then Semi-gloss Black. Very pleased with the result - glossy enough to look 'alive', but not unrealistically so. The outer sections of the sills will be painted white eventually, so this will all need re-masking, etc, later on. Since taking this photo I've also fitted the small inner sill panels - you'll see these next time.
Although these panels were designed to be removed and re-fitted in one position (using small studs to locate them each time), I still wanted to be sure the roof would still attach properly:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1021_zps4rubewf2.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1021_zps4rubewf2.jpg.html)
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1022_zpslypjqbex.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1022_zpslypjqbex.jpg.html)
Yes, it does! There's still enough flex in the front wheel-arch panels that they will twist to match the line of the 'bolt-in' X-frame, and to mate up with the base of the windscreen surround.
I've also glued in the styrene box-section sill reinforcements each side - the small ali dowels have been pushed through the floor to make sure everything is aligned properly, but they're not bolted-through ...yet.
In a rush of activity(!) I added the left-hand water pipe which disappears into the front wheel-arch panel:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1023_zpsehqgdnnh.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1023_zpsehqgdnnh.jpg.html)
This is pinned in place at each end, and had to be fitted before any of the panelling is added around the front of the chassis frame.
In addition to the painted parts you can see in these photos, there's a few other bits that are in progress right now. Most are being airbrushed, but there's still plenty of opportunities for me to get the regular brushes out! Here's the pedal assembly underway:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1024_zpsrrsudwah.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1024_zpsrrsudwah.jpg.html)
Still needs all the little bits of detailing added - return springs, clevis', etc - plus some colour variation, but it's looking okay so far. I used the Sandy Paste again to get some anti-slip texture on the pedal pads.
So, that's it for tonight. Not a massive update, but fitting the sill panels is a big step for me in the assembly process. I can now start adding all the other interior panelling and plenty of detailing, before I add the front firewall and main roll-cage section. It won't be long now before I can think about working on the doors, too...
SB
So, what's new tonight? The big news is that I finally attached the front and rear fibreglass sill panels:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1020_zpsgabgvz2l.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1020_zpsgabgvz2l.jpg.html)
I re-primered the front wheel-arch panels, then sprayed everything with a basecoat of Tamiya Flat Black, then Semi-gloss Black. Very pleased with the result - glossy enough to look 'alive', but not unrealistically so. The outer sections of the sills will be painted white eventually, so this will all need re-masking, etc, later on. Since taking this photo I've also fitted the small inner sill panels - you'll see these next time.
Although these panels were designed to be removed and re-fitted in one position (using small studs to locate them each time), I still wanted to be sure the roof would still attach properly:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1021_zps4rubewf2.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1021_zps4rubewf2.jpg.html)
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1022_zpslypjqbex.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1022_zpslypjqbex.jpg.html)
Yes, it does! There's still enough flex in the front wheel-arch panels that they will twist to match the line of the 'bolt-in' X-frame, and to mate up with the base of the windscreen surround.
I've also glued in the styrene box-section sill reinforcements each side - the small ali dowels have been pushed through the floor to make sure everything is aligned properly, but they're not bolted-through ...yet.
In a rush of activity(!) I added the left-hand water pipe which disappears into the front wheel-arch panel:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1023_zpsehqgdnnh.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1023_zpsehqgdnnh.jpg.html)
This is pinned in place at each end, and had to be fitted before any of the panelling is added around the front of the chassis frame.
In addition to the painted parts you can see in these photos, there's a few other bits that are in progress right now. Most are being airbrushed, but there's still plenty of opportunities for me to get the regular brushes out! Here's the pedal assembly underway:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1024_zpsrrsudwah.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1024_zpsrrsudwah.jpg.html)
Still needs all the little bits of detailing added - return springs, clevis', etc - plus some colour variation, but it's looking okay so far. I used the Sandy Paste again to get some anti-slip texture on the pedal pads.
So, that's it for tonight. Not a massive update, but fitting the sill panels is a big step for me in the assembly process. I can now start adding all the other interior panelling and plenty of detailing, before I add the front firewall and main roll-cage section. It won't be long now before I can think about working on the doors, too...
SB
88Porsche944
10-03-2016, 07:10 PM
Absolutely incredible work!!! I'm at a loss for words....
chris24
10-04-2016, 04:01 AM
Now I'm sure : you come from Mars. And of course you like Bowie, Ronson, Visconti... :p
heyes57
10-04-2016, 12:43 PM
SB. Once again a wonderful post full of hints and techniques that I know I'll use in my model making and I'm sure that goes for everyone who so enjoys your work.
Regards RH
Regards RH
ianc911
10-04-2016, 03:23 PM
Oh my lord, the paint is coming out in earnest now; you'll be done in a couple weeks! ;)
ianc
ianc
MarcoSaupe
10-05-2016, 12:12 PM
Just awesome!
ScratchBuilt
10-26-2016, 03:13 PM
Done in a couple of weeks, Ian? It's taken me three nights to get eight photos uploaded to Photobucket! I don't know what's going on there, but it's been a real pain getting these sorted out...
So, hello again, and here's another update for you.
Most of the work in the last couple of weeks has been painting, with occasional outbreaks of gluing. The short-term plan is still to get everything ready for fitting the front bulkhead and firewall, but only being able to airbrush at the weekends has required a change of focus.
First up, here's the side radiators and small gearbox oil cooler, and the main oil and water rads from the front. These have been hand-painted over an aerosol grey primer base, working up through various greys and pale browns, with a couple of silvers thrown in to get a little metallic shine in places. The gearbox cooler is basic black, with a light drybrush to pick up some highlights.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1025_zpsfomrslbh.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1025_zpsfomrslbh.jpg.html)
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1032_zpsdb3bnvqb.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1032_zpsdb3bnvqb.jpg.html)
Next, I added the small steering damper coupling to the lower column. Not sure if I've already posted the painted rack, but here it is anyway:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/11b153f2-4528-4026-afb8-bf211836d473_zpskdvlsoxh.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/11b153f2-4528-4026-afb8-bf211836d473_zpskdvlsoxh.jpg.html)
The two fire extinguisher bottles were airbushed with Tamiya orange over a grey primer, then a couple of coats of red. The firing heads, etc, will be painted soon.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1027_zps5e78mw3g.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1027_zps5e78mw3g.jpg.html)
My latest headache is how I'm going to get a good finish on the main fueltank in the nose of the car. Most of the fibreglass I've painted so far has been to represent steelwork, now I'm trying to paint styrene to represent fibreglass! The original tank is covered in the stuff, and should be a yellowy-brown colour with the fibreglass texture / weave showing. So far I've given it a coat of grey primer, and a single coat of one of the Tamiya sandy yellows as a starting point - but it's a question of how I work up to the desired colour. The 'sandy paste' used on the intercoolers is no good - completely wrong texture - and I'm not sure that attacking the fuel tank with micro balloons will help, either. I've thought about spraying further colours using a piece of aluminium mesh as a mask to create a 'weave' effect, but I think this will require experimentation first...
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1029_zpshuweadhp.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1029_zpshuweadhp.jpg.html)
Also in the front of the chassis, here's a better view of the painted radiator exit duct, and the two small panels which close off either side of the steering rack. As usual, nothing's fixed in place yet - just a trial run:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1028_zpsdxjiuaoi.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1028_zpsdxjiuaoi.jpg.html)
Meanwhile, towards the back of the car I've added a couple of small closing panels to the ends of the main sill structures. As they'll be buried behind the side rads anyway, they're simply black styrene sheet, unpainted. The sills (and therefore also the main chassis frame) have now been bolted through the floor, and the nuts glued and locked in place inside the sills. An oil pipe exits from the sill on each side - these will be fixed in place later, with pipe-clip detailing, etc.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1030_zps3ubzcotg.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1030_zps3ubzcotg.jpg.html)
As usual, there's a few other things I've painted which I've forgotten to take photos of - I'll try to remember to add these in next time.
Sorry it's a bit 'all over the place'. I've got some time-off planned for the end of November, so I've now got a target to aim for: that will probably be when the front bulkhead, etc, comes together. It'll also be an opportunity to work on some of the remaining parts that will be easier to do when I've got more than a regular weekend or evenings - seatbelts, wiring, wheels and tyres, etc.
See you next time.
SB
So, hello again, and here's another update for you.
Most of the work in the last couple of weeks has been painting, with occasional outbreaks of gluing. The short-term plan is still to get everything ready for fitting the front bulkhead and firewall, but only being able to airbrush at the weekends has required a change of focus.
First up, here's the side radiators and small gearbox oil cooler, and the main oil and water rads from the front. These have been hand-painted over an aerosol grey primer base, working up through various greys and pale browns, with a couple of silvers thrown in to get a little metallic shine in places. The gearbox cooler is basic black, with a light drybrush to pick up some highlights.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1025_zpsfomrslbh.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1025_zpsfomrslbh.jpg.html)
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1032_zpsdb3bnvqb.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1032_zpsdb3bnvqb.jpg.html)
Next, I added the small steering damper coupling to the lower column. Not sure if I've already posted the painted rack, but here it is anyway:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/11b153f2-4528-4026-afb8-bf211836d473_zpskdvlsoxh.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/11b153f2-4528-4026-afb8-bf211836d473_zpskdvlsoxh.jpg.html)
The two fire extinguisher bottles were airbushed with Tamiya orange over a grey primer, then a couple of coats of red. The firing heads, etc, will be painted soon.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1027_zps5e78mw3g.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1027_zps5e78mw3g.jpg.html)
My latest headache is how I'm going to get a good finish on the main fueltank in the nose of the car. Most of the fibreglass I've painted so far has been to represent steelwork, now I'm trying to paint styrene to represent fibreglass! The original tank is covered in the stuff, and should be a yellowy-brown colour with the fibreglass texture / weave showing. So far I've given it a coat of grey primer, and a single coat of one of the Tamiya sandy yellows as a starting point - but it's a question of how I work up to the desired colour. The 'sandy paste' used on the intercoolers is no good - completely wrong texture - and I'm not sure that attacking the fuel tank with micro balloons will help, either. I've thought about spraying further colours using a piece of aluminium mesh as a mask to create a 'weave' effect, but I think this will require experimentation first...
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1029_zpshuweadhp.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1029_zpshuweadhp.jpg.html)
Also in the front of the chassis, here's a better view of the painted radiator exit duct, and the two small panels which close off either side of the steering rack. As usual, nothing's fixed in place yet - just a trial run:
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1028_zpsdxjiuaoi.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1028_zpsdxjiuaoi.jpg.html)
Meanwhile, towards the back of the car I've added a couple of small closing panels to the ends of the main sill structures. As they'll be buried behind the side rads anyway, they're simply black styrene sheet, unpainted. The sills (and therefore also the main chassis frame) have now been bolted through the floor, and the nuts glued and locked in place inside the sills. An oil pipe exits from the sill on each side - these will be fixed in place later, with pipe-clip detailing, etc.
http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/ScratchBuilt917/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1030_zps3ubzcotg.jpg (http://s604.photobucket.com/user/ScratchBuilt917/media/Scratchbuilt%20Porsche%20Moby%20Dick/moby1030_zps3ubzcotg.jpg.html)
As usual, there's a few other things I've painted which I've forgotten to take photos of - I'll try to remember to add these in next time.
Sorry it's a bit 'all over the place'. I've got some time-off planned for the end of November, so I've now got a target to aim for: that will probably be when the front bulkhead, etc, comes together. It'll also be an opportunity to work on some of the remaining parts that will be easier to do when I've got more than a regular weekend or evenings - seatbelts, wiring, wheels and tyres, etc.
See you next time.
SB
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