2000 Oldsmobile Bravada

We have a 2000 Olds Bravada. It won't start when it is below 35 degrees. We had new plugs and wires,rotor and distributor cap put on. It started a few times then quit. We took it back th the shop and they noticed the fuel filter was bad. Again after that it started a few times then quit. We finally took it to the dealership. They are saying the VCIM needs replaced $629.00 Is this a high price and can it just be disconnected? Getting very frustrated. They checked the fuel pressure and it was 58psi.

Thank you
Rick and Dorice

The VCIM is the module for OnStar. Not sure what is has to do with your stalling condition. Yes, though, if you don't have a OnStar contract you can disconnect it.

So the dealer is trying to soak us lol any ideas then on why it won't start? When I turn the key it acst like it is starting then when I let go of the key it stops. We just dumped $600 in it for a wheel bearing and idler arm we don't want to just junk it

Maybe not. They may have actually meant VCM, which is the vehicle control module, that could still be causing your problem. So many modules, so many initials. Don't write off your dealer yet.

ok I'll have to have someone look at that and see if that is the problem. I know my Bravada isn't equipped with onstar. Thank you

Ok so my husband talked to the mechanic at the dealer today and he was wrong not the VCIM he said it wa the anti theft deterent system module that was interfering with starting my Bravada. Is that something I can dis connect? If not is it expensive to replace?

From our most cool pal, MT2500,


"Try the auto learn procedure.
Key on for 10 minutes until the security light goes out.
Then key off for 5 seconds then 2 more key on for 10 minutes until light goes and off for 5 seconds.
If that does not get it disconnect the battery and engine and body pcm and plug them back in an and try the relearn again.
Also try the door lock and unlock with ign key and spray door lock with penetrating oil. And check door hinge wiring.
If no help or no start.
You will need to get the B body codes and U communication codes.
Good Luck and let us know how it goes.
MT"
____

Thanks for the tip the car is still at the dealer they are looking for a cheaper price for the cross member right now but as soon as I get it back I will try that.

The dealer, of all places, should know that fuel pressure must be 60psi to 66psi. 58psi will, without a doubt, cause problems.

But the car starts when it is above 40 degrees outside so the pressure isn't the problem

Don't be so sure. The lower the ambient temperature is, the higher the pressure needs to be to get it to start. In other words, at 40 degrees ambient, 58psi should get it to start, but at zero degrees, 58psi might not be enough. If fuel pressure drops to ~43psi, the injectors will not squirt fuel at all, and that makes for real hard starting ;)

So what would be the fix for that? The fuel pump works we can hear it every time we try to start it. The dealer also said the anti theft deterent module is the reason. We took it to an electrical place to have it looked at. Also what makes me think the dealer is lying to us is we need a new cross member and he said he got all but three bolts off and he would have to cut them off and replace for $30 each well when my husband tried to take it off he got all but 2 bolts off.

Low fuel pressure can be caused by any one or more of several things: Weak fuel pump, insufficient amperage available at the pump, (which could be a poor power or ground connection somewhere in the pump circuits, or a weak battery), or the fuel pressure regulator is set too low. These are the most common reasons, and there are others as well.

EDIT:

As for the anti theft system he's referring to: Upon start up, if the system "thinks" it's a theft situation, the Powertrain Control Module, (PCM) shuts off the injectors after 2 seconds, the engine stalls, and the security light comes on. If that system is shutting off the injectors, it can be confirmed very easily using a bi-directional scan tool, (all GM dealers should have it).

From your description in post #3, there could be a problem with the ignition switch or ignition control module, both can produce symptoms very similar to what you described.

we need a new cross member and he said he got all but three bolts off and he would have to cut them off and replace for $30 each well when my husband tried to take it off he got all but 2 bolts off.

If the bolts are cut or drilled to remove, this can take 15 to 20 minutes each if they're easily accessible. It gets lots worse if parts have to be removed to access.
The threaded bolt holes will have to be drilled out and the holes re-tapped if the old bolt threads don't come out during the drilling.
This is not a quick job.
If any of the other hole threads are messed up, they'll have to be re-tapped and if that doesn't repair the threads, they'll require thread inserts to be installed to make sure the threads won't pull out and your crossmember doesn't come loose.
The odds are real good that the whole drilling & tapping procedure will be required on all three bolts and the mechanic and shop have to be paid.

When things go easy, like normally loosening bolts and changing parts, we kinda take that for granted until things don't go as planned.
We're lucky to have Pro's like GMTech1, Maxwedge, MT2500 & Old Master to offer their considerable knowledge without charge to help us save$$$.:cool:
This is real savings to offset the costs of having paid Pro's make the more difficult repairs.

Here is a pic of where to check your fuel pressure. Fuel pressure test kits are available at most chain type auto parts and Harbor Freight,

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p288/Clunk_/Image026.jpg

I know it's been a while since I was on here. I think we fixed our problem. We went ahead and replaced the fuel pump but that wasn't the problem. So we went ahead and had the remote starter disconnected and there were a couple of days when it was 30 degrees out and it started right up. Hopefully that was the problem but we will find out when winter comes around again. Now I have a new problem. When I pull the hood release my hood won't open. Any suggestions on how to open the bloody thing?

Have an assistant "slap" the hood, (front center) while simultaneously working the release cable a few times. If it pops open, the latch mechanism probably needs some lube and an adjustment.

I pull the hood spring down to stretch it a coupla inches so it'll lift the hood better.