WRX 2.0 rebuild
flewthecoupe
01-30-2012, 12:28 PM
Ok, I'm not a newbie to rebuilding engines... if they are the V or inline versions. Never rebuilt a flat 4 and can't imagine it's much different.
My step son spun 2 rod bearings, 1 and 4. Not much for metal shavings throughout that I could see upon initial inspection but that only included the bottom of the pan, and the oil pick up screen.
The engine has not been pulled yet and I still have to look at and/or measure the cylinder walls, pistons, rings, ring clearances, cranks shaft journals, connecting rods, etc.
I know we can reuse headbolts and block through bolts, etc.
So here is my question, assuming I measure and tolerences come back as still within specs, is there anything aside from rod bearings, main bearings, and a complete gasket set that I should consider replacing on this motor?
It has +/-76,000 miles on it. He has limited funds to work with. Again, assuming much without pulling the engine, I can pull it, boil it, turn the crank, get oversized bearings, replace all gaskets, and update the oil pickup for about $800.
Minumum on a shortblock that I've found is about $1650 and that doesn't include a master gasket set for $250ish plus an upgraded pickup for about the same.
Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
Thank you in advance,
Michael
My step son spun 2 rod bearings, 1 and 4. Not much for metal shavings throughout that I could see upon initial inspection but that only included the bottom of the pan, and the oil pick up screen.
The engine has not been pulled yet and I still have to look at and/or measure the cylinder walls, pistons, rings, ring clearances, cranks shaft journals, connecting rods, etc.
I know we can reuse headbolts and block through bolts, etc.
So here is my question, assuming I measure and tolerences come back as still within specs, is there anything aside from rod bearings, main bearings, and a complete gasket set that I should consider replacing on this motor?
It has +/-76,000 miles on it. He has limited funds to work with. Again, assuming much without pulling the engine, I can pull it, boil it, turn the crank, get oversized bearings, replace all gaskets, and update the oil pickup for about $800.
Minumum on a shortblock that I've found is about $1650 and that doesn't include a master gasket set for $250ish plus an upgraded pickup for about the same.
Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
Thank you in advance,
Michael
brokenboxer01
05-28-2013, 06:46 PM
Mike,
I have four of these EJ20 rebuilds going at all times, on top of allot of EJ25 rebuilds. Subaru cranks can't be turned for a variety of reason. First and foremost they are already pretty small in diameter. Secondly finding a shop setup for them is a challenge even if you wanted to. The small journal diameter would require a shop to have a wheel setup specifically for the boxer engines. Pretty much assume the crank is junk. Even the new cranks are on the skinny end of the spec from the box. Also be sure to not reuse the oil cooler. Generally speaking I bypass the cooler after a rebuild. They do not flow enough to do much more than help cold starts. Very simple to bypass, all the parts can be removed from a N/A suby. Head bolts are another issue with the build, for the small additional cost it's great insurance to go with ARP's. Truly a night and day difference. If you are going to do all the work your self, I would put the saved money to a new crank, good bearings & studs. Your goals of 800.00 will be cutting it close.
I have four of these EJ20 rebuilds going at all times, on top of allot of EJ25 rebuilds. Subaru cranks can't be turned for a variety of reason. First and foremost they are already pretty small in diameter. Secondly finding a shop setup for them is a challenge even if you wanted to. The small journal diameter would require a shop to have a wheel setup specifically for the boxer engines. Pretty much assume the crank is junk. Even the new cranks are on the skinny end of the spec from the box. Also be sure to not reuse the oil cooler. Generally speaking I bypass the cooler after a rebuild. They do not flow enough to do much more than help cold starts. Very simple to bypass, all the parts can be removed from a N/A suby. Head bolts are another issue with the build, for the small additional cost it's great insurance to go with ARP's. Truly a night and day difference. If you are going to do all the work your self, I would put the saved money to a new crank, good bearings & studs. Your goals of 800.00 will be cutting it close.
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