Removing cylinder head

Question: Is there a proper bolt pattern/method for removing the cylinder head on our 2.0L SOHC? Water pump bearings went out, taking out the timing belt, and causing me to lose complete compression in #3 cylinder. (probably bent valves - hope not a chipped piston or worse) The other 3 are all within 10% of each other and with the 4th crank over on each at 175.(glad about that).:runaround:

(probably more posts to follow after I get the head off - currently scouring (probably a bad word to say when it comes to engine repair) the forum for tips on removing and replacing bent valves...

The rule I was always tought was the pattern to remove head bolts is the reverse of the tightening pattern.

There is no particular pattern to remove the head bolts. Make sure you change the idler pulley while doing the timing belt and water pump.

There is no particular pattern to remove the head bolts. Make sure you change the idler pulley while doing the timing belt and water pump.

Thanks... I replaced the water pump with a new unit, converted the older hydraulic tensioner setup with a newer mechanical one, and of course a new belt. The water pump bearing froze so that tore up the belt - and led to the subsequent issue. After trying to start the car(it started but ran poorly) I did a compression test - no compression at all in Chamber #3. The other 3 are strong at 175psi on the fourth stroke. I'm going to pop the head off today and see how bad number 3 is... *sigh

You definitely have some bent valves as the engine is an interference engine.

You definitely have some bent valves as the engine is an interference engine.

*sigh.... figures. Is it hard to replace those valves if everything else is okay?

Not hard, but not easy! Time consuming.

Not hard, but not easy! Time consuming.

Does anyone know the steps or have posted them in the forum? I've not had much lucking finding much about removal and replacing bent valves in these SOHCs...

From the FSM...

VALVE SEALS AND SPRINGS IN VEHICLE REMOVAL
(1) Remove rocker arm shafts assemblies as previously outlined in this section.
(2) Rotate crankshaft until piston is at TDC on compression.
(3) With air hose attached to adapter tool installed in spark plug hole, apply 90-120 psi air pressure.
(4) Using Special Tool MD-998772A with adapter 6779 (Fig. 29) compress valve springs and remove valve locks.
(5) Remove valve spring.

INSTALLATION
(1) Install valve seal/valve spring seat assembly as outlined in the Valve Installation procedure in this section.
(2) Using Special Tool MD-998772A compress valve springs only enough to install locks. Correct alignment of tool is necessary to avoid nicking valve stems (air pressure required), piston at TDC.
(3) Install rocker arm shaft assemblies as previously outlined in this section.
(4) Install valve cover as previously outlined in this section.

Here is a picture of a valve spring compressor that will need to be used to remove the valve spring keepers so the spring can be removed from the head,

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/com/5325/image/4/

Possibly autozone or Oriely's would have the tool in their rent a tool program.

Here is a picture of a valve spring compressor that will need to be used to remove the valve spring keepers so the spring can be removed from the head,

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/com/5325/image/4/

Possibly autozone or Oriely's would have the tool in their rent a tool program.

Great! Thank you very much. I'll see if they have that on loan here. Much appreciated.

Great information! Thank you again!

Update:

Bent Intake valves in chamber 3. Very minor marks on piston head. Did a leak test on both the intake and exhaust sides - only gets moist around the seats but does not drip - even after forgetting about it for about 20 min.. (used kerosene for the liquid). I figure, I'll change the bad valves, all the seals and lap every valve anyway. Should I consider getting the head cleaned and have a pass done on the mating surface since I've come this far?

I would just make sure its straight and flat.

Update:

Bent Intake valves in chamber 3. Very minor marks on piston head. Did a leak test on both the intake and exhaust sides - only gets moist around the seats but does not drip - even after forgetting about it for about 20 min.. (used kerosene for the liquid). I figure, I'll change the bad valves, all the seals and lap every valve anyway. Should I consider getting the head cleaned and have a pass done on the mating surface since I've come this far?
Aluminum head? I always run a circular pattern from the inside out. I'd send the head out to a machine shop and have it tanked, checked for cracks, decked,valve guides checked,especially # 3 changed,valves cleaned up, 3 angle valve grind,all new seals,( they'll come in the head gasket,valve grind set). That head around here will run about $250 at a machine shop.

Aluminum head? I always run a circular pattern from the inside out. I'd send the head out to a machine shop and have it tanked, checked for cracks, decked,valve guides checked,especially # 3 changed,valves cleaned up, 3 angle valve grind,all new seals,( they'll come in the head gasket,valve grind set). That head around here will run about $250 at a machine shop.

Yes, Aluminum head. I might get lucky here - a bud's brother is the owner/operator of a machine shop. I might be able to cut a deal. I'll find out this week. Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it.