Brake Holding pressure

MY 99 villager is holding pressure in the left front wheel. I checked the brakes found the left front binding. Replaced the caliper first then the flexhose. It still has same problem and bleed brakes all the way around. Drove for a mile and started again. Any ideas?

MY 99 villager is holding pressure in the left front wheel. I checked the brakes found the left front binding. Replaced the caliper first then the flexhose. It still has same problem and bleed brakes all the way around. Drove for a mile and started again. Any ideas?

When you replaced caliper did you clean and lubricate the caliper sliding pins?? Reebuilt or new caliper and brand??

The slides were aready lubed and free. The caliiper is rebuilt but believe it to be good.

The slides were aready lubed and free. The caliiper is rebuilt but believe it to be good.

Check your anti-pulsation valve.

This is from another forum:

> I have a '98 villager and ran into the same problem. My drivers side brake would get so hot you could smell it inside the vehicle and the wheel would get very hot, so hot I was afraid it would pop the tire. The passenger side would remain cool. I replaced the caliper and hose and it did not help. After doing some searching on the forums here, I drilled out the plastic material inside the valve on top of the master cylinder, thus making it nothing more than a fitting. The overheating went away at once. That was a year ago last summer and I have not had any problems with it at all. Brakes work fine to this day. It didn't make sense to me, but it worked. Just my 2 cents.

Sending PM.

Thanks for the information. I will see if a replacement can be found local. My only concern is the different brake systems between 98 and 99 models. Thanks again.

Thanks for the information. I will see if a replacement can be found local. My only concern is the different brake systems between 98 and 99 models. Thanks again.

Does your right rear wheel seem to be dragging also???? The left front and right rear work as a unit and the right front and left rear as the other.

The right rear did not drag when I was checking them. I believe that the anti vibration valve on mastercyclinder could cause this. It kind of makes snese for the concern. If the abs unit was bad or had some kind problem there might be a light on. I have no light and the abs works as should. If the relief hole inside master cylinder were clogged it would affect two wheels not just one. I am looking little farther and will make a choice of were to go to next. Thanks for your help and the link to repair manual.

The right rear did not drag when I was checking them. I believe that the anti vibration valve on mastercyclinder could cause this. It kind of makes snese for the concern. If the abs unit was bad or had some kind problem there might be a light on. I have no light and the abs works as should. If the relief hole inside master cylinder were clogged it would affect two wheels not just one. I am looking little farther and will make a choice of were to go to next. Thanks for your help and the link to repair manual.

corem check this link out for rockauto they have a closeout sale going on
and there are master clyinders on it.

http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1316503&m=wc&l=en&html=true (http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1316503&m=wc&l=en&html=true)

Ok I check the anti-pulsation vavle on master cylinder. I was able too blow from the input side but not the return. Ialso checked the flow from the caliper back to the valve. I tried to clean it out but found no use of it. I then tried to drill though it. I then Took at masonary bit and knocked out the insides. It looks like a metering valve on the inside. Clean out shavings and reinstalled. I went fr short drive went great. I then drove again and was ok. I tried the ABS and found nothing wrong. I have drove around twenty miles so far all good. TYhe onlt thing idid do that needed to be done was completly bleed all the old fluid form the system and replace with synthetic fluid. It was full of rust and small black stuff.
I also found out that the vavle can be bought with a new master cylinder from most parts places.

Ok I check the anti-pulsation vavle on master cylinder. I was able too blow from the input side but not the return. Ialso checked the flow from the caliper back to the valve. I tried to clean it out but found no use of it. I then tried to drill though it. I then Took at masonary bit and knocked out the insides. It looks like a metering valve on the inside. Clean out shavings and reinstalled. I went fr short drive went great. I then drove again and was ok. I tried the ABS and found nothing wrong. I have drove around twenty miles so far all good. TYhe onlt thing idid do that needed to be done was completly bleed all the old fluid form the system and replace with synthetic fluid. It was full of rust and small black stuff.
I also found out that the vavle can be bought with a new master cylinder from most parts places.

Thanks for the update and fix.

If someone needs more details or just advise on this just send me a message.

I have a 96 villager that I think has the same issue. It all started with the driverside front caliper hanging up. I bought a new caliper and now I can't get the brakes to bleed. I've ran a quart through each bleeder bolt using the pattern in the manual but brakes still feel squishy and after sitting over night at first morning start they have to be pumped up or pedal goes right to the floor. The old caliper was able to be compressed so i'm thinking it's this valve, but I have no clue where the valve is located or what it looks like. I PM'd Corem, but no response yet. Does anyone else know anything about this valve?