1/43 BMW E36 318i A. Heger '94

Hey there!

A brief re-introduction: I did some scale modelling back in '02 when I was around 12-13 years old. I lost interest back then mainly due to not really being able to afford the hobby as poor school boy with no income. Now that I'm a grown up with a steady job, things are a bit different. :)

I decided to get back into modelling some time ago, but this time mainly in a smaller scale - meaning 1/43 of course. I feel this size offers more interesting subjects for me, as my main interest is european touring cars from the 70ies until the early 90ies.

So, seeing how I drive a BMW E36 in real life, I just had to snatch these up when I found them for 19€/each. Price-wise, perfect deal for someone starting out in 1/43, imho.

http://www.abload.de/img/e36kits2olmx.jpg

They are made by Gamma Models from Italia. Maybe not the ideal kit for someone to get back into things, but I'll make it work. :)

I chose at random which of the three I'd build first - my choice fell upon the Kattus sponsored car driven by Altfried Heger in '94.

As I'm just getting back into things, progress will be relatively slow.


Unboxed, I included 0.05€ for size reference:

http://www.abload.de/img/1uhx46.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/2ihx48.jpg

The individual pieces look pretty good. There's some flaws on the body but the overall shape is quite good actually. There's a bunch of photoetch parts provided for the wheel inserts, wipers, door handles and other minor details like that.

Started removing the flash:

http://www.abload.de/img/3peaas.jpg


Test fit with the interior now that I could see how the parts line up:

http://www.abload.de/img/4nplq0.jpg


Here you can see one of the defects in the resin casting... there's a piece of the front bumper missing. I'll have to remedy this.

http://www.abload.de/img/5emai3.jpg

Lastly, I cut off the dashboard from the piece of sprue, removed the flash and stuck it in for a test fit... fits pretty good.

http://www.abload.de/img/6kkx21.jpg


That's it for now. Not much, I know, but I'll be taking all the time I need to not mess this up too bad. :)

Nice looking kit. I have not built a resin kit before either, but have a resin 1/43 Gulf 917 in my stash that's next in queue, so I'll be interested to read your observations,

ianc

nice one dr.AK.
Bimmer too here (e36 of course).Congratulations for the nice touring there.
I also collect the e36 in scale, but prefer work in 24 scale.Dragon/revell/hasegawa models are wonderful bases to start awesome models.

will follow your one with great interest, keep on posting

Nice looking kit. I have not built a resin kit before either, but have a resin 1/43 Gulf 917 in my stash that's next in queue, so I'll be interested to read your observations,

ianc

I'll be sure to keep sharing my observations! It's a bit different from a plastic kit from what I've gathered so far, and I still don't really have a clue what I'm doing here at all, lol.

nice one dr.AK.
Bimmer too here (e36 of course).Congratulations for the nice touring there.
I also collect the e36 in scale, but prefer work in 24 scale.Dragon/revell/hasegawa models are wonderful bases to start awesome models.

will follow your one with great interest, keep on posting

Nice to see a fellow E36 owner! Thanks, it was a lot of work to get it to this point...

I'm familiar with the Revell 318ti Compact, was a pretty good kit iirc.

And I'll keep posting for sure. :)



Today's update, nothing much.

First, there was a small air bubble above the front window frame. I read somewhere that CA could fill such a small bubble like this, so I just tried it out. Let a drop of CA dry up there and then sanded it smooth.

http://www.abload.de/img/7cfj8t.jpg

Next some parts clean up:

http://www.abload.de/img/83rj7w.jpg

Dry fit:

http://www.abload.de/img/9cok1j.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/10cwj79.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/11uukdo.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/126akx2.jpg

As you can see the chassis is supposed to be screwed in.

There's a small hole on the chassis underneath where the exhaust will be placed. I think I will use this. I will drill a small hole in the exhaust and insert a piece of copper rod or something, then glue it in place.

I also took my hobby knife and scribed some of the panel lines where they weren't deep enough. Not really visible on the photo, sadly.

http://www.abload.de/img/13vajy0.jpg

I also discovered this: Mounting of the wheels is apparently supposed to be done via two simple axles being placed in the chassis with the wheels stuck on. Problem: The wheels have a smaller inner diameter than the supplied piece of rod which is supposed to be the axle - meaning I'll have to organize a smaller rod to build some axles. For this, I will also most likely have to make the holes for the axles a bit smaller, so the wheels will not slide around.

http://www.abload.de/img/14bbkc3.jpg


That was it for today.

My paint and some other misc supplies still has not arrived yet, but I'm hopeful that it will be here sometime next week.

Hey there...

today, I first poked out some air holes in the side skirts, then filed them smooth with a round file.

http://www.abload.de/img/1qelg1.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/2i5l0g.jpg

Then I used some filler to, well, fill it again. :) Also filled the hole in the front bumper.
I used Presty Polyester Feinspachtel (Fine Filler) from the local car / hardware store.

http://www.abload.de/img/3jyzix.jpg

Filled applied...

http://www.abload.de/img/4fbact.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/531xrf.jpg

And sanded smooth.

http://www.abload.de/img/6aebyp.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/7gqlst.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/88vz0f.jpg


And that's all for today.

Keep it up. Instead of finding smaller rod for the axles, you could drill the wheels out to a press fit?

ianc

That would also be a possibility, yes. Hadn't actually thought of that!

I'll have to see... like I said I'm not rushing it.

Shot a quick coat of primer on the body, mainly to get some training in with the airbrush and also because primer often times reveals imperfections you didn't notice before...

http://www.abload.de/img/e36_grundiertul4o7.jpg

good for you, we need more young people involved. it looks an interesting subject.

DR.Ak, you've started off really well - welcome to the world of 43rd and pin holes :rofl:

I'd go with ianc's suggestion of making the insert in the rim bigger for the supplied axles. Whilst on the wheels, I usually start sorting out the ride height early in the build before you get too far with the body and chassis - you might need some adjustment, I learnt the slow way :uhoh:

Paul.

DR.Ak, you've started off really well - welcome to the world of 43rd and pin holes :rofl:

I guess I'm doomed now, this stuff is addicting. :rofl:

The primer showed me some spots that I needed to address, so yesterday I did some sanding and filling... and I also scribed the panel lines, as I finally received my set of photo etched scribing blades. No pics just yet as I'm still at work. Will post some later today!

I'd go with ianc's suggestion of making the insert in the rim bigger for the supplied axles. Whilst on the wheels, I usually start sorting out the ride height early in the build before you get too far with the body and chassis - you might need some adjustment, I learnt the slow way :uhoh:

Paul.

Yeah, it sounds like the most reasonable way to go. Now I'll just have to see about getting myself a drill vice and an assortments of drills...

Looking good!!! For those wheels & axles... If you can't find a smaller rod for the axle you could chuck the ones from the kit in a drill and turn the ends down using a file. I would'nt want to risk damaging that rim detail on those wheels.

Also a very good idea!

As the axles are longer than necessary, I will try this solution first, I think.

I'm a bit nervous about working with the photo etch parts... any good advice for this topic?

For the p/e parts I like to scuff the backside w/ 600 grit befor removing them from the sprue(this is an extra precaution I like & if the part is too delicate or your not comfortable it's not necessary). I use scissors for cutting the parts. If you can't cut close enough you can hold those parts in a flat set of pliers and do final clean up with sand paper or a fine grit sanding disk in a moto-tool. Parts that are too small to hold or require pressure to attach use clear tape. I like epoxy... It gives you some time to work and once your familar with it's charactics it's cleanable and you can make some mess or redo if necessary.

Thanks for the tips!

Here's the progress from yesterday:

http://www.abload.de/img/img_9847c6pya.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/img_98481mpkg.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/img_98495zpr8.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/img_9850tloev.jpg

Speaking of PE parts, I'm also wondering what to use to attach them to paint?

I don't really use expoxy much so not sure what type would not harm paint and be cleanable\workable?

I was also thinking slow-drying superglue or white glue?

Any further advice?

ianc

I've been wondering about that myself... no idea as of yet.

What I did just now:

Cleaned up the mirrors.

http://www.abload.de/img/img_98518txs7.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/img_985251yy6.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/img_9854xiahb.jpg


Also decided to circumvent the wheel problem - I'll just use the wheels from one of the other kits and tackle the problems with this set of wheels when the time come to build the other kit, lol.

Mounted up the wheels.

http://www.abload.de/img/img_9855m2yvl.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/img_9856xkx0l.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/img_9857bfbkc.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/img_9858efbmq.jpg

NOT satisfied with how it sits.

The rear sits uneven, one side is lower than the other and the wheel also sticks farther inwards on the driver's side.

And on the front the whole axle sits too far back.

We'll see how I'll tackle these problems...


And I'm dreading this part of the build... this is the supplied roll cage. No instructions pertaining to this included. I have no idea yet how this is supposed to go together. :D

http://www.abload.de/img/img_985908ysg.jpg

Epoxy won't damage paint. To clean up any excess it helps to time it right. If you don't wait long enough the glue is still gummy and you make your mess worse and too long and it gets hard. @ 20min - 1hr is the best time. Make a chisel with a sharp edge from a toothpick and gently work the edges of the epoxy blobs from all angles.

Dr.AK, as 914joe said epoxy won't hurt the paint. The best way I found to attach mirrors is to use a short piece of wire as a locating pin to help positively locate the part.

As for swapping the rims, just make sure the PE BBS inserts fit first - hopefully they will. Now is also the time to get the ride height the way you want it and to correct wheel placement.

The supplied roll cage is a generic plastic set, I had the exact same one in Provence Moulage Porsche GT2 but I was lucky that I had a Tamiya GT2 to copy the general layout of the cage - ie not correct but looks convincing enough. I suggest try google to get the general idea and make it fit or just leave it out.

Thanks!

Dr.AK, as 914joe said epoxy won't hurt the paint. The best way I found to attach mirrors is to use a short piece of wire as a locating pin to help positively locate the part.

That's what I was going to do, you can actually see the tiny holes I drilled into the car body, but I'm a bit nervous to drill the mirrors themselves, as they are so thin and delicate. Maybe I'll try this once I've received my set of micro drills. Smallest I have right now is 1mm.

As for swapping the rims, just make sure the PE BBS inserts fit first - hopefully they will. Now is also the time to get the ride height the way you want it and to correct wheel placement.

Yes, I checked - the barrels of the wheels are exactly the same, only on the original set the bore for the axles is way too small.

The supplied roll cage is a generic plastic set, I had the exact same one in Provence Moulage Porsche GT2 but I was lucky that I had a Tamiya GT2 to copy the general layout of the cage - ie not correct but looks convincing enough. I suggest try google to get the general idea and make it fit or just leave it out.

Thanks! So just try & error, then. What about bending some pieces - should I heat them up a bit first? Wait... this is plastic, of course I should heat them up.

Normaly the generic rollcage sprue supplied in PM/Starter kit is enough to build the entire rollcage, but that's makers opinion !! :)
they are usefull to complete the rollcage but except on my very first 1/43 kit I never only use it to build a rollcage.
They don't need any heat to be bent or worked, but it you have too heavy hands you may brake it !
some parts can be usefull to avoid hard bending work, but by experience most of it has to be replaced by electric wire or metal rods.

Nice to see a 1/43 model here, they are not so common.

Normaly the generic rollcage sprue supplied in PM/Starter kit is enough to build the entire rollcage, but that's makers opinion !! :)
they are usefull to complete the rollcage but except on my very first 1/43 kit I never only use it to build a rollcage.
They don't need any heat to be bent or worked, but it you have too heavy hands you may brake it !
some parts can be usefull to avoid hard bending work, but by experience most of it has to be replaced by electric wire or metal rods.

Thanks for the tips!


Nice to see a 1/43 model here, they are not so common.

Yes, sadly... I've always liked this scale - don't really see why it's not more popular even if its a bit more fiddly...


Got the problems with the wheels sorted!

http://www.abload.de/img/img_9861pmxw0.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/img_9863l1lyc.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/img_986425xwg.jpg

I moved the opening for the front axle forward by 1 mm and to make it a tight fit again, so the axle wouldn't wobble, I glued a strip of 1mm plastic to the rear of the opening - so it was basically just moved 1mm forward.

http://www.abload.de/img/img_9865l7y2p.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/img_9866c6lqa.jpg

And the rear wheel solution is still in progress, but I know how to get them sitting right now, at least... a 1mm spacer for the passenger side will fix the issue. I did a small test using some plastic in which I drilled a 2mm hole for the axle. This will get some more work, currently it is just a test.

http://www.abload.de/img/img_9867rtawl.jpg

If anyone asks, yes, that is plastic from a tic tac box :D

Nice work!

I've got a question...

Some of the tiny photo etch parts need to be painted (i.e. door handles in white). What is the best way to paint these? While still on the sprue? Or cut them out and then just... I dunno, lay them out somewhere and spray with a really low pressure so they don't fly away?

Theoretically both ways should work... The rear side doesn't need paint anyway.

Maybe I'll just try a few methods, see what works for myself.

I want to tackle the roll cage tomorrow and then get everything ready for primer.

On the smallest 1/43 PE part I use to paint them off the sprue with a brush after a coat of Citadel primer.
Sometimes I even glue them in place unpainted (just primed) and directly paint them with the final color once glued on the model. That's what I do with antennas for example.

Hi there, as a fan of the mid-'90s touring cars, I've been following your build.

So far so good!

Here are some images of the roll cage of a similar 318i, that might help you out:

http://www.supertouringregister.com/image/513.jpg
http://www.supertouringregister.com/image/522.jpg
http://www.supertouringregister.com/image/523.jpg

Hope these help. Can't wait to see it finished!

Wow, thanks, that's really helpful.

Also love that site, superb infos and pics there.

So, today I started with the roll cage. Challenge accepted, as they say. :)

http://www.abload.de/img/kaefigbauen863ma.jpg

This supplied roll cage universal kit thing is complete and utter crap. Or I'm too stupid to work with it. I just can't get it to stick together at all.

I'll get myself some 1mm brass rod and bend the cage out of that. Any tips for soldering the individual parts of the roll cage together? Can I just use a soldering iron or a normal lighter?

Never used a lighter or open flame to solder, but I should think a normal soldering iron and some flux would work fine. You'll probably need some kind of jig or third hand to position the pieces prior to soldering. After you get some of the structure built, you'll need to take care that soldering a new joint does not heat the existing rod enough to melt your already completed work. Pics!

ianc

I finally got some 1mm and 1.5mm brass rod in, so I just tried it out. It's a bit fiddly due to the size, but it works.

Applied some soldering grease to the parts (one of the rods was dipped in the grease with one end and the other rod had a small dot applied with a tooth pick) and then just carefully heated them up using my trusty gas soldering iron, but without a tip - so with the open flame.

Just one drop of your run of the mill soldering tin was enough to solder the two rods together.

http://www.abload.de/img/messing106jcz.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/messing2a6jvn.jpg


After you get some of the structure built, you'll need to take care that soldering a new joint does not heat the existing rod enough to melt your already completed work. Pics!


I read somewhere that placing a damp towel over the already soldered parts will take care of that - sounds logical. I'll try using this method.


More pics to follow soon, I'll do some planning for the cage first and then I'll get to bending the rods and soldering them.

dr.ak, why not use simply a rod in plastic from evergreen? they are surely easier to fix and to place in position.

Because I like a challenge. :D

I feel like a well built brass cage will give me superior results to a styrene cage.


Haven't had time to really work on it, but I'm doing the planning for the cage now... There's some areas that give me a headache, mainly the area where it attaches to the dashboard, but I'll manage.

I think some tiny drill holes on top of the dash to stick the rods into will be best, as on the real car they go through the dash as well.

Dr. I am looking the link for your touring. Looks great of course (honestly up there u are the only ones saving so well those e36.U can change wheels without mess as here,a REAL odissey I did to fit style24 original M spocket wheels.The lowered line of the e36 becomes incredible, even more with M body kit).

Do u have a direct link for all the refurbish u made to her? surely to fit the rear wheels u had to change and cut the carrosserie (that ET 42 limit on the rear axle..damn...:D was a common problem,I had original wtcc BBS 17 inch steel I cannot use...).
Really curios,also cause I love the same serie,just with open roof...;)

End OT.

Thanks. :)

Check out this thread: http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2031

It covers pretty much everything, from when I bought the car back in 2009 to how it sits today, along with a few personal hardships along the way. :)

The wheels are BBS RF in 8.5x17 ET13 with 205/40/17s up front and 9.5x17 ET13 with 225/35/17 in the rear. Front fenders are stock while the rears have been pulled to the max. I'm also running the maximum negative camber in the rear and excentric m3 3.2l strut bearings mounted inverted for lots more negative camber up front. Not ideal for handling, but the car is just an automatic daily, so it's just built for looks. :)

I hope to be able to get a second car sometime this year, maybe a 325i sedan, and maybe build it up as a track tool.

imho they are the best bmw ever build for quality.Much better than following series (and no comment over that terrible Bangle design...).Prefer the old german way of the same wurstel small, medium and big size.
Many e36 down here reached 1 milion kmts, without any significant problem.Mine is still "young" with 110.000 kmts (1997 restyling).Also true I am so fool I save her in aircon garage 2 meters under my bedroom.It is exactly as just a big scale 1:1 model,using her only for summer drive on seaside.

Owned also a 320i e46,but sold cause too crap quality car after only 40.000 kmts. maybe was just my typical unlucky, and probably Murphy laws.

real end OT....I think...I promise....not so easy with such bmw's :D....but I will try.. LOL
http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/167/600x600/25/04052011670.jpg?et=tkG04vphRdda5Hb6qX0g1Q&nmid=436786514

She's my fav german MILF,too big love.Will never sell it.:boink::boink:

EDIT: I've read all the thread on stanceworks.Too nice.I see also up there fit wheels on papers is becomed messy eh? (and YES..switch to BBS RS ;))