Security,starts then stalls?

My '99 starts then stalls,security light stays on solid so i know thats the problem,had this problem this summer but it came out of it now it's doing it again,anybody have any tips for this issue? hate to haul it into the dealer but i will if i have too. :mad:

Try this:
Momentarily rotate the key to the START position (do NOT start the motor) and release to the RUN position. Leave the key in the RUN position for 10 minutes then turn the key OFF for 10 seconds. Repeat this 2 more times. This whole procedure takes about a half hour.

Hope this helps.

Thanks will try and post back....

Well no luck,still no start security light solid on,looks like I'll have to drag it to the stealer ship,any by passing this security some how?

Should have mentioned to check the "SECURITY" fuse. Fuse #21 10 Amp in the I/P fuse block. I don't know of any way to bypass the system.

Fuse good..

There is a way to bypass it permanently.

I've heard of cutting the passlock wires and wire a resister across the leads to the BCM then it would have a steady resistance and the relearn could work,but i have no schematic.

Here is a lengthy thread on the same issue

security discussion 99 C/K (http://batauto.com/Forums/index.php?topic=10835.0)

Thanks,, good read but impossible to try when the truck will not start because of the security.

light is on solid and truck will not start,starts then stalls,,i need a bypass to try so the truck will start in the first place.

I found this cool wright up it's for a grand Am but it should work for trucks too..

http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/

no way to bypass.you are talking about bypass the key pellet which is the passkey earlier system.....you have the passlock system.the weakest link is the passlock sensor.you can check voltage with a meter on wires from passlock sensor to either the bcm or the evo/passlock module........the passlock sensor has 2 hall effect that the bcm or the evo/passlock module needs to see biased then it sends a fuel enable signal to the pcm on a data bus line.......if pcm does not see this then it will kill injectors within 2 seconds on first startup....after that you are in a 10 minute lockout and no injector pulses at all during 10 minutes.two most common codes are B2947 AND B3031.there is a short and long term tamper mode.when you turn key to on position does light flash 4 seconds and remain on steady or steady on?is your key on the dash or on the column?column ones you have to drop the column to replace the passlock sensor and have to disable airbag and passlock sensor and ignition lock cylinder are one unit and ignition switch seperate.....dash mounted key systems the ignition switch/passlock sensor and ignition cylinder are all one unit.do you have a dc meter to check voltage on power wire and also signal wire from passlock sensor at the bcm or evo/passlock module?yours may have the evo/passlock module.in that case you do not have a bcm.evo stands for a electronic variable orifice which controls power steering and also includes the passlock module.also if the passlock sensor was working but the pcm was not receiving the fuel enable signal from the bcm/evo passlock module because of a bad wire then same result....chances of that or faulty module either the pcm/bcm/evo passlock module is slim but a possibility........if had a scan tool capable of reading these codes that are stored would be nice......autozone or advance have generic sac tools and can't read......to replace passlock units whether dash or column mounted can be expensive then you have to do a manual 30 plus minutes relearn.need a labscope to check bus lines between modules.could take a chance but passlock units probably pricey.hope this helps.....let me know.

also wanted to add that there are 2 hall effect sensors in the passlock sensor...tamper and security that the bcm or evo/passlock module timer circuit look at a time window to see these hall effects biased....during crank the tamper hall effect is biased and when key is released the security hall effect is biased......there are 10 different r-code voltage values with this system which is on the signal wire from passlock sensor to the bcm or evo/passlock module....then the fuel enable signal is sent to the pcm....if pcm does not see this then it will disable fuel injectors.I hope this makes any sense.

no way to bypass.you are talking about bypass the key pellet which is the passkey earlier system(wright up was on a '02 GA so thats not a earlier system?).....you have the passlock system.the weakest link is the passlock sensor.you can check voltage with a meter on wires from passlock sensor to either the bcm or the evo/passlock module........the passlock sensor has 2 hall effect that the bcm or the evo/passlock module needs to see biased then it sends a fuel enable signal to the pcm on a data bus line.......if pcm does not see this then it will kill injectors within 2 seconds on first startup....after that you are in a 10 minute lockout and no injector pulses at all during 10 minutes.two most common codes are B2947 AND B3031.there is a short and long term tamper mode.when you turn key to on position does light flash 4 seconds and remain on steady or steady on?(when key is turned on light stays on steady,it never flashes)is your key on the dash or on the column?(column)column ones you have to drop the column to replace the passlock sensor and have to disable airbag and passlock sensor and ignition lock cylinder are one unit and ignition switch seperate.....dash mounted key systems the ignition switch/passlock sensor and ignition cylinder are all one unit.do you have a dc meter to check voltage on power wire and also signal wire from passlock sensor at the bcm or evo/passlock module?yours may have the evo/passlock module.in that case you do not have a bcm.evo stands for a electronic variable orifice which controls power steering and also includes the passlock module.also if the passlock sensor was working but the pcm was not receiving the fuel enable signal from the bcm/evo passlock module because of a bad wire then same result....chances of that or faulty module either the pcm/bcm/evo passlock module is slim but a possibility........if had a scan tool capable of reading these codes that are stored would be nice......autozone or advance have generic sac tools and can't read......to replace passlock units whether dash or column mounted can be expensive then you have to do a manual 30 plus minutes relearn.need a labscope to check bus lines between modules.could take a chance but passlock units probably pricey.hope this helps.....let me know.
See red...

i had this problem twice before but it came out of it with a short key "on" reset,light went out, but a few times latly the light would come on for a wile then go off next time i started it with no starting problems,so tells me it's a problem getting worse,but this time it's not coming out of it it's been two days now and i need this truck to get to work...

i feel it's my ignition switch/passlock sensor,etc just needs to be replaced then do a relearn,the truck does have 238,000 miles so the keys been turned a few times lol...

it probably is the passlock sensor/lock cylinder unit......but unless testing is done just taking a educated guess.as far as the bypass article.....there are 10 different r voltage values.if you get a wiring diagram and backprobe the white wire from the passlock sensor where it goes into the bcm or the evo/passlock module which ever one you have and with key on you should have battery voltage.then the yellow signal wire should have 5 volts when backprobed with koeo and during crank should drop.if voltage stays at 5 volts and has good power on white wire and the black ground wire is good then the passlock sensor has to be bad.then you have to drop column disable airbag first disconnect battery for 20 minutes to let capacators discharge.also wanted to add......anyway to get codes read.

I have '98 K1500. I had identical problem. It was a 'Passkey' issue.

I did some research and found a 'bypass' instructional, which involved cutting a couple of wires, measuring resistance with Ohms meter, going to Radio Shack to purchase resistor to match the reading I got, and soldering the resistor in place. Very easy. The wires were located right under the steering column, readily accessible.

The whole process took me less than an hour. My cost was about $5.

I had posted the instructions somewhere. I'll see if I can find them......


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Dang, my original posts and instructional diagram have been deleted.

However, I used this site in the past. I think they have the instructions for the bypass: http://www.passlock2.com/

According to their site, 98+ Chevy trucks use "Passlock 2".

Here's a pic showing what I did:
http://csgbenefits.org/vats2.jpg

Of course, double check my info before you start cutting, to make sure it pertains to your vehicle.....

Good luck!

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passkey has resistor pellet.........passlock has 2 halleffects and bcm reads one during crank and one during release of key and has a timed window to see both hall effects biased.I dont know how soldering in a resistor will disable.I have always tested and replaced with factory parts.

passkey has resistor pellet.........passlock has 2 halleffects and bcm reads one during crank and one during release of key and has a timed window to see both hall effects biased.I dont know how soldering in a resistor will disable.I have always tested and replaced with factory parts.


My key ('98 Silverado) does not have visible pellet. I fixed my 'security' issue about five years ago, by soldering in the appropriate resistor. My total cost was literally about $2, to buy a matching resistor at Radio Shack. My truck has worked perfectly ever since. Never had any more 'security' issues....... :smokin:


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Update...

got back from the stealer this afternoon not great but could have been worse i guess dealing with this type of system can really add up in parts, total bill was $342.

problem was a code B1631 in the TDS, TD module was bad,replaced the module did the relearn and back in business.


thanks joe/everybody for your posts, i wish i could have trouble shot this more but i needed my truck,no time to mess around!!!

by the looks of it i probably would not have succeeded anyway.

the resistor would not have worked in your case.there are shops that do electrical/diagnostic work that are cheaper than the dealer......if modules are not available at local parts stores than have to get from dealer and can be expensive but labor is usually cheaper.glad you got it fixed.