Missing a high beam

Greetings, all.

The high beam on the driver's side is out. The lamp lights when the DRLs come on; but whenever I hit the highs, the light goes out. The bulb has been changed several times, including swapping it with the functioning lamp on the passenger side, and all bulbs act the same way. So where else would I look for a problem? The interesting thing is that this vehicle has been sitting idle in one shop or more for the better part of two years; and this problem did not show until about March when I transferred it from one shop to another.

Thanks, all.

Greetings, all.

The high beam on the driver's side is out. The lamp lights when the DRLs come on; but whenever I hit the highs, the light goes out. The bulb has been changed several times, including swapping it with the functioning lamp on the passenger side, and all bulbs act the same way. So where else would I look for a problem? The interesting thing is that this vehicle has been sitting idle in one shop or more for the better part of two years; and this problem did not show until about March when I transferred it from one shop to another.

Thanks, all.

Year make and model?

Is it losing or getting voltage or ground at head high beam light bulb?

Why swo many shops and setting around so much?

Greetings, all.

The high beam on the driver's side is out. The lamp lights when the DRLs come on; but whenever I hit the highs, the light goes out. The bulb has been changed several times, including swapping it with the functioning lamp on the passenger side, and all bulbs act the same way. So where else would I look for a problem? The interesting thing is that this vehicle has been sitting idle in one shop or more for the better part of two years; and this problem did not show until about March when I transferred it from one shop to another.

Thanks, all.

with the rectangler lamps and the prongs sticking out in the back of the sealed beam the connector is most likely corroded. this is a problem as this is exposed to deicing chemicals...

I would try to clean up these ,,,ALL ,,,and place dielectric silicone grease on those exposed pins. this should last a couple more years.

Sorry for the missing info: I put this up way too late one night.

2001 Jimmy SLE

Why so many shops? Well, I started with my stepson's friend who does fleet maintenance for a local concern and was trying to start his own shop. He replaced a heater core for me; so I decided to let him try to figure out why my fuel gauge was so erratic. What I got back from him wouldn't run for long before stalling out; besides which, I had no gauges at all. I took it back for him to correct; he tried to get things working; he failed miserably. That process took more than a few months. I had the vehicle towed to another mech who had done some work for me; and though he said he'd get around to it, many, many moons later he hadn't even pulled it in for a look. It seems that diagnosing someone else's electrical screw-ups is something almost no mech wants to do. After a few other useless stops I finally found a shop that would do it; but by that time I had become a victim of the jobless recovery; so when they finally said they'd fixed the electrical problems, I couldn't afford to get it out of the shop for almost nine months. Good thing I went to school with those guys.

So, MT-2500, let me ask you: I'm guessing that the first thing I would do is check for voltage across the bulb connector between the DRLs and the high beams; then between each connector terminal and ground: If I get 12V at one terminal, can I conclude I have a bad ground somewhere? And if that's the case, where would the bad ground be, since it's primarily the same wiring even if a different circuit? (And who has decent wiring diagrams for these things these days?)

And j cAT, this vehicle does not have large, rectangular lights. Separate bulbs; in fact, separate high and low beam bulbs, the high beams being burned at a lower level to produce the DRLs. But that's the question: If I get light from the DRLs, why not from the high beams?

Sorry for the missing info: I put this up way too late one night.

2001 Jimmy SLE

Why so many shops? Well, I started with my stepson's friend who does fleet maintenance for a local concern and was trying to start his own shop. He replaced a heater core for me; so I decided to let him try to figure out why my fuel gauge was so erratic. What I got back from him wouldn't run for long before stalling out; besides which, I had no gauges at all. I took it back for him to correct; he tried to get things working; he failed miserably. That process took more than a few months. I had the vehicle towed to another mech who had done some work for me; and though he said he'd get around to it, many, many moons later he hadn't even pulled it in for a look. It seems that diagnosing someone else's electrical screw-ups is something almost no mech wants to do. After a few other useless stops I finally found a shop that would do it; but by that time I had become a victim of the jobless recovery; so when they finally said they'd fixed the electrical problems, I couldn't afford to get it out of the shop for almost nine months. Good thing I went to school with those guys.

So, MT-2500, let me ask you: I'm guessing that the first thing I would do is check for voltage across the bulb connector between the DRLs and the high beams; then between each connector terminal and ground: If I get 12V at one terminal, can I conclude I have a bad ground somewhere? And if that's the case, where would the bad ground be, since it's primarily the same wiring even if a different circuit? (And who has decent wiring diagrams for these things these days?)

And j cAT, this vehicle does not have large, rectangular lights. Separate bulbs; in fact, separate high and low beam bulbs, the high beams being burned at a lower level to produce the DRLs. But that's the question: If I get light from the DRLs, why not from the high beams?

Yes check for 12 volts to it when switched to high beam.
If good 12 volts then check the ground side for good ground.
Also check plugin for corrision if any clean connection.

To check for ground hook test light or volt meter to ground side and hot side and test lght should light up bright or show 12-13 volts.
If not sure of ground you can wire in a ground wire to the ground wire.

All data DIY online repair subcription has good wiring diagrams.

I show the ground is at underhood fuse box.
As said if not sure on ground circuit tie in a ground wire.
Good Luck.

Greetings, all.

The high beam on the driver's side is out. The lamp lights when the DRLs come on; but whenever I hit the highs, the light goes out. The bulb has been changed several times, including swapping it with the functioning lamp on the passenger side, and all bulbs act the same way. So where else would I look for a problem? The interesting thing is that this vehicle has been sitting idle in one shop or more for the better part of two years; and this problem did not show until about March when I transferred it from one shop to another.

Thanks, all.

with your type 2001 vehicle since the lamps are controlled in a circuit that has common feeds and grounds with the low/high beams I would say the lamp socket or wire on/to/from that high beam is the problem..

if you had other lamps not working then it could be fuses/relay/BCM etc...since only the high beam left driverside it has to be that only.