Engine removal

Need to pull the engine out of a '99 CV LX to drop in a replacement. I have a nice engine leveler but need to know where some good safe attachment points are. The FSM says to use their engine lifting brackets, which appear to be attached to the RH rear of the cylinder head and the LH front of the cylinder head. These brackets are nothing more than plate steel with a bend, a slot for the chain, and a hole for the bolt to attach it to the motor. The cheapest I have been able to find them is $460 (Rotunda Tools). One place wanted $375 for only one of the brackets and told me I'd have to wait till march 8th to get the other one. I wonder if he's surprised as to why I didn't place the order. Oh yeah, forgot to mention that each one comes with a bolt, which explains the extra cost. No guess as to who is smokin dope on this one! Any suggestions as to safely pulling the engine on this particular model? Someone told me they used a cut off seat belt tied to the exhaust manifolds, cross wise front to back. I don't think I can put any amount of faith in tying seat belt ends around the manifolds.

Just be careful that the chain does not crack the valve cover when you remove or install.

Are there some other attachment points on the heads or block that I can use with a bolt? Where do the dealership/fleet service guys attach the lifting brackets? I can have those brackets made up quite inexpensively, I'm sure, If I can figure out where they are supposed to go. The FSM gives a diagram but doesn't give enough detail to show what they are bolted to, nor does it say.

There is a threaded hole in the end of each head. We have also used any place we can attach the lifting brackets. Some bolts a little longer than the intake bolts will work also. Just don't try to lift the engine and transmission assembly together. Look at the rear outside of the driver's side, I think there is a threaded hole there that can be used.

Someone with a plasma cutter,(optional),a gas wrench setup and some 1/4" or 3/16" steel plate can cut and bend up some up brackets to attach to the exhaust manifold studs,( 2 studs reach for each bracket). One for the left front and the other attached to the right rear. Using the proper length spreader bar/ leveler should do it. Like W2O said dont have it squeezing the plastic valve covers or they'll crack. Better yet remove them. Separate it from the trans and torque converter before lifting. Support the trans with a piece of plywood on a floor jack. Hold the torque converter back w/ vise grips to the bell housing so it doesnt fall off the input shaft.

This is all excellent info. Thank you very much. Your assistance will make this job a breeze. I am only planning to pull the engine, leaving the transmission in place. Will post my method of removal late this week when I start the job. Thanks again.

What are the chances that the exhaust manifold studs will come out without breaking, should I decide to go that route. I have a friend with a plasma cutter, so may be making the brackets.

The studs may be long enough to just put a nut on the outside of the bracket you are making. The odds of not breaking are not very good. Better odds of them breaking. Good luck. BTW, what happened on intake. PM me. Curious

Why can`t you pull the motor and trans together? cause that is what i need to do my 98 CVP.