Water pump leak

I have a 2005 Chevy Suburban that was leaking a small amount of fluid. Originally thought it was transmission fluid. Took it to the Chevy dealer and they said it was the water pump. I mistook the Dexron antifreeze for transmission fluid. Dealer was going to charge $525 to change the water pump and belts/tensioner. I told them no thanks.

I decided to change the water pump myself. Autozone had a replacement water pump for $110. I was unsure about doing this myself but the job was much easier than expected.

Although I changed the water pump, I am convinced that the original pump was OK. :banghead: When I took out the bolts to the old water pump, I noticed that two of the bolts were relatively loose. I was afraid to put back in the old water pump, since the new one was fairly cheap. I think that tightening the bolts on the old pump may have done the job.

The worst part of the job was finding a way to drain the antifreeze since Chevy decided to stop installing the drain valve. I had to just pull the hose to drain (messy).

It's usually the gaskets that leak, not the water pump itself. They updated the gaskets and the new OEM pump will come with the new style gaskets. Not sure about the AZ pump gaskets.

I have a 2005 Chevy Suburban that was leaking a small amount of fluid. Originally thought it was transmission fluid. Took it to the Chevy dealer and they said it was the water pump. I mistook the Dexron antifreeze for transmission fluid. Dealer was going to charge $525 to change the water pump and belts/tensioner. I told them no thanks.

I decided to change the water pump myself. Autozone had a replacement water pump for $110. I was unsure about doing this myself but the job was much easier than expected.

Although I changed the water pump, I am convinced that the original pump was OK. :banghead: When I took out the bolts to the old water pump, I noticed that two of the bolts were relatively loose. I was afraid to put back in the old water pump, since the new one was fairly cheap. I think that tightening the bolts on the old pump may have done the job.

The worst part of the job was finding a way to drain the antifreeze since Chevy decided to stop installing the drain valve. I had to just pull the hose to drain (messy).

interesting how you have had this issue now , as last week my 2000 silverado had this very small leak that I could not find for about 1 month. what I found after many times trying to locate the exact point of leakage was the passenger side water pump gasket area.

as you now know that is one very large pump and a heavy fan/clutch assy. the bolts are very small.

I got the torque wrench out and did two passes on the 6 bolts. 10ft lbs then the 22 ft lbs. leak fixed !

if I was not successful I was thinking as you stated replace the gaskets and use old pump ?

the radiator drain is on the 2000 silverado 5.3L ..2005 there is no drain . GM saved a few cents ...with my drain no spillage.....

Yep, I've got 2005 Yukon, no drain plug, must pull the radiator hose to drain.

Thread Hi-jack:

Question is: how to replenish the coolant, as there's no radiator cap anymore????

How does one add coolant, like through the overflow, and is engine off when you do that??? I haven't been able to figure this out, or find on Internet. thanks.

Yep, I've got 2005 Yukon, no drain plug, must pull the radiator hose to drain.

Thread Hi-jack:

Question is: how to replenish the coolant, as there's no radiator cap anymore????

How does one add coolant, like through the overflow, and is engine off when you do that??? I haven't been able to figure this out, or find on Internet. thanks.
It has got to have a rad cap some place.:sarcasmsign:
Have another look.
Should be a screw in cap on coolant tank.
It has got to have a rad cap some place.:sarcasmsign:
Pour coolant into top of rad or add threw over flow jug after you fnd the rad cap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.

Go to AZ web site and punch in year make and modle and engine and it show a picture of cap and tell you location on coolant tank.

i don't know about the water pumps at a/z i got two there with holes in backing plate after i got it on and had to take off because of that because it leaked and give them hell to so if you get 1 there look at backing plate see if theres holes like these had.

i don't know about the water pumps at a/z i got two there with holes in backing plate after i got it on and had to take off because of that because it leaked and give them hell to so if you get 1 there look at backing plate see if theres holes like these had.

The 2005 sub. does not have a backing plate on it.
You must be refering to the older type chev water pump.
Always go for a new pump over rebuilt and you will not have problems like that.

Did they not tell you about OR give you the labor under there parts/labor warranty program?

i don't know about the water pumps at a/z i got two there with holes in backing plate after i got it on and had to take off because of that because it leaked and give them hell to so if you get 1 there look at backing plate see if theres holes like these had.

if you purchased the rebuilt water pump this is not a good idea when these pumps are made from aluminum. In the old days steel water pumps can be repaired. aluminum the metal corrodes from the inside out.

Yep, I've got 2005 Yukon, no drain plug, must pull the radiator hose to drain.

Thread Hi-jack:

Question is: how to replenish the coolant, as there's no radiator cap anymore????

How does one add coolant, like through the overflow, and is engine off when you do that??? I haven't been able to figure this out, or find on Internet. thanks.

the coolant pressure cap is the fill tank. I remove this plastic tank , when doing the coolant service and wash it all out.

when filling I take off the top radiator hose at the radiator and fill the system as much as possible. then put hose on. then fill up the plastic tank and leave cap off. start engine and with cap off add until at normal temp/full mark. then rev up to 2000rpm a few times an top off ..this gets the air out. then put cap on.

when filling I take off the top radiator hose at the radiator and fill the system as much as possible. then put hose on. then fill up the plastic tank and leave cap off. start engine and with cap off add until at normal temp/full mark. then rev up to 2000rpm a few times an top off ..this gets the air out. then put cap on.

Thanks, J Cat !!!