1997 neon ignition/timing issues

Hello. I am a newbie here, but for the most part have worked on my 1997 SOHC Neon personally, more than I have ever allowed a mechanic work on my car. However I recently have has some issues I cannot find the problem.

I got 3 different codes, (I normally get a 43 code for multiply misfires which is common on my Neon) however have 3 new codes, one for ASD Relay, on for crank sensor and one for cam sensor. So, off come those three things and new ones get installed.

My neon ran with a lot of throttle, but will cut off and then back on. When the car gets warmed up, the cut off and back on gets worse. It will then die. Cranking the car to start takes a long time for it to restart. But if the car is cold, it will start right up and run normal for a few minutes then it starts to act up again. Engine will cut off and back on. My car is in good mechanical condition, uses no oil, great gas mileage and power. Good compression and has been very dependable. I do not think my issue is fuel, it has to be something electrical.

If I take the car to a dealership, will the DRB Scan more or less show what my car is doing wrong, so this problem is not a wild guessing game?

Getting the codes read using a scanner can provide a little more info than you get from counting the blinks of the Check Engine Light. But the only information the PCM can give you, is what ever the sensors report to it. There isnt any sensor that will tell you that you have a bad/corroded wire in the wiring harness where it runs behind the motor, or that the target magnet in the end of the camshaft has gotten weak. Both of these might show up as a CPS signal not found during cranking, or some such result.
I had the ASD relay code showing up with my 97 when we got it. It would also quit running when making right turns - unless you took them very very slowly. That problem went away after I pulled the engine, so I could get to the engine wiring harness, and replaced twelve of its wires that were melted together, near where the harness went past the exhaust manifold.

Getting the codes read using a scanner can provide a little more info than you get from counting the blinks of the Check Engine Light. But the only information the PCM can give you, is what ever the sensors report to it. There isnt any sensor that will tell you that you have a bad/corroded wire in the wiring harness where it runs behind the motor, or that the target magnet in the end of the camshaft has gotten weak. Both of these might show up as a CPS signal not found during cranking, or some such result.
I had the ASD relay code showing up with my 97 when we got it. It would also quit running when making right turns - unless you took them very very slowly. That problem went away after I pulled the engine, so I could get to the engine wiring harness, and replaced twelve of its wires that were melted together, near where the harness went past the exhaust manifold.

I am very aware of issues that a majority of Neons deal with regarding wires and how as they age, may be in need of repair or replacement or wires or even an entire wiring harness.

Since my original post here on this thread, I have had my car into a dealership. It was a total waste of time and money. The service tech was a joke. He did not check my fuel pressure, or do any vacuum leak checks, and told me my coil and wires looked as if they were performing well, according to the DBRIII scanner, however, when I went to get my car from them, they wrote that I should replace my MSD Coil pack and MSD wires. I had to request the troubleshooting of them check my vaccum and fuel pressure to at least rule those things out as far as the "cause" or to verify proper operational function.

After replacing the map sensor, crank sensor, cam sensor, ASD Relay, the car still has the same problem. The cold engine will run good, but as soon as it gets to normal operating temp, the engine strarts to cut off and on again and a very quick rate, and as of today, the electric fan is also running on and off when the car is warmed up, almost as fast as you could turn a light on and off. This is happening while the car sits still. I have no wires close to any exhuast but all the wires that run aroud the engine compartment are routed to stay as far away as possible from heat sources, and some are wrapped and tucked away better than factory stock.

I could not find anyone (auto repair shop) close to me that has what is called a "lab scope". If I did, it would isolate the sensors and test them individually and all by themselves. However, due to being robbed by the dealership, I more or less think my ECU is faulty, There would not likely be a witre issue or a sensor issue with how the car is running, too many "controls" of functions of the car all at one time tossing codes and having my engine run up and down that fast, (and the fan now doing it), leaves me little choice but to have another ECU installed.

Thanks