The Famous Starter-NO Click

Trying to help a friend fix her car, Its a 95 Toyota 4runner Sr5 AUTO v6...She said she parked it, came back out tried to start it and nothing.
Starter was replaced with a new one-No click
Battery was replaced-No click
Jumped car- Same thing, No click

Replaced the wire from + to the fuse box -No click

When the key is in ACC power and everything works, Headlights shine bright with no dim.
When key is turned to try and start, the click dims out.

there is a "starter" relay in fuse box and also another relay along side of that near fire wall that clicks when one tries to start it. Tapped both of them while friend tried to start thinking they were stuck, Nothing.

Tapped starter thinking it was stuck, Nothing.

Any help? car is stranded

Check the ground (-) connection at the battery and at the other end (block). Make sure both ends are clean and tight.

Check both battery cables to make sure they are not badly corroded internally. If in doubt, replace them.

Have the starter checked. It may be a bad one.

Check the starter relay secondary side for continuity when power is applied to the primary connection.

Check the ground (-) connection at the battery and at the other end (block). Make sure both ends are clean and tight.

Check both battery cables to make sure they are not badly corroded internally. If in doubt, replace them.

Have the starter checked. It may be a bad one.

Check the starter relay secondary side for continuity when power is applied to the primary connection.
where is the secondary side located?

Also just to get the car to the house whats the "best" way to jump the starter

where is the secondary side located?

Also just to get the car to the house whats the "best" way to jump the starter

There are four contacts on the relay. There are three contacts parallel to each other, and one perpendicular to the other three. The two contacts which are paired are on opposite sides of the relay. The pair that are parallel to each other are the primary, and the pair with one perpendicular to the other are the secondary.

The secondary is what I call the high current side and is switched by the primary or low current side.

The primary (parallel pair) must have continuity and the other pair (secondary, perpendicular pair) should not have continuity. Replace the relay if the above is not true.

Apply 12 v to the side with continuity (primary), the other pair (secondary) should then have continuity. In normal operation, continuity in the secondary side allows high current to flow to the starter solenoid. If you don't get continuity in the secondary side when 12 v is applied to the primary, you need to replace the relay.

Jumping the starter is very difficult to do without touching other portions of the truck and shorting out the connection, sparking, etc. I think it is a bad idea and I don't suggest you try it. You can also potentially create a circuit through your body by touching the cable and the chassis. It is easier and much safer to try cleaning the connections on the cables first.

There are four contacts on the relay. There are three contacts parallel to each other, and one perpendicular to the other three. The two contacts which are paired are on opposite sides of the relay. The pair that are parallel to each other are the primary, and the pair with one perpendicular to the other are the secondary.

The secondary is what I call the high current side and is switched by the primary or low current side.

The primary (parallel pair) must have continuity and the other pair (secondary, perpendicular pair) should not have continuity. Replace the relay if the above is not true.

Apply 12 v to the side with continuity (primary), the other pair (secondary) should then have continuity. In normal operation, continuity in the secondary side allows high current to flow to the starter solenoid. If you don't get continuity in the secondary side when 12 v is applied to the primary, you need to replace the relay.

Jumping the starter is very difficult to do without touching other portions of the truck and shorting out the connection, sparking, etc. I think it is a bad idea and I don't suggest you try it. You can also potentially create a circuit through your body by touching the cable and the chassis. It is easier and much safer to try cleaning the connections on the cables first.
Isnt the Relay good if it clicks though?

Also tried to wire in a relay like this:

Still did not work, but the starter relay ( i believe thats what it is) op the passenger fender near the top clicks.
Also sounds as if something is clicking near the shifter, (relay)
Any help?

The clicking only means there is continuity through the primary. The secondary circuit is just as important.

Test all the relays. The main starter relay is in the box on the driver's side by the front of the vehicle, if I'm not mistaken.

okay well i wired in the 30A relay to try and bypass all that and still no click.
Foot on the brake draws power, i leave the key to the "on" position and the radio reset ( this mean ignition is working)

Also will not start in "N" .

Try bypassing all that and run 12V from the battery straight to the smaller of the 2 terminals on the starter.

Don't hard wire it, just touch the wire to the terminal momentarily and see if the starter jumps.

Try bypassing all that and run 12V from the battery straight to the smaller of the 2 terminals on the starter.

Don't hard wire it, just touch the wire to the terminal momentarily and see if the starter jumps.

So if it works this way, what can I eliminate?

Try bypassing all that and run 12V from the battery straight to the smaller of the 2 terminals on the starter.

Don't hard wire it, just touch the wire to the terminal momentarily and see if the starter jumps.
So if this works what's my problem?
And if it Dosent I'm guessing starter? It's brand new though

So if this works what's my problem?
And if it Dosent I'm guessing starter? It's brand new though
the starter turns over when key is in the "on" position and taped on pos on battery.

think it can be the ignition?
or would i be able to just wire ACC to a switch and make it push button to start?

Relay or connections

Where does the wire coming from the solanoid lead to? Also where 12 v ign from ignition lead to?

so starter only "clicks" when i jump it to the pos.
Went to dealership and bought a new 'starter relay" kinda funny considering i thought the Auto had the NSS as the "starter relay".

Im not sure what it can be. Test light determined no power to starter signal wire leading to starter.

:screwy:

Did you test the old relay?

Did you test the old relay?

The only relay I know about is the one located in fusebox that says "starter".
Is there another one im missing?

Im close to just cutting signal from back of ign harness wire to my own relay and straight to starter

Did you test the old relay?
no i bought a new one.

Im about to just splice the black and yellow wire off the back of ignition harness (it get power) and run my own wire with relay in middle to starter

The starter relay (in a similar vehicle) is in the relay block on the passenger side under the hood in front. The starter relay is in the middle of the box (as I think you know).

Since you mentioned it before, did you check the NSS?

Since you mentioned it before, did you check the NSS?
i disconnected the connector rod that goes onto the NSS and with the help of a friend went thru every gear moving the selector. Nothing.
BTW is having that arm all the way forward Park or L?

also what are the 2 black relays behind the driver kick panel? I have an AUTO and was told there was no starter relay.
i need to know where every relay connected to the starter is. the only "starter" relay i know of is in the fuse box. Dealer said it was on passenger fender. NOPE

The information I have is that your starter relay is where the dealer said it was.

For the NSS, check that there is continuity between the N and B terminals of the NSS (electrical connector disconnected) when the shifter is in "N". You should be able to tell which limit is associated with Park or L by the direction of travel of the linkage in going into either of these two gears.

Also, check AM1 and AM2 fusible links - I believe they are by passenger fender.

I found a reference which says the starter relay is in the junction box by the driver kick panel.

Relays in No. 1 junction box are back up relay, taillight control relay, and horn relay (other reference says power window relay).