2000 Maxima p0740 code; about how much to have fixed?
SteVB
10-09-2011, 11:51 PM
my 2000 Maxima auto. trans. with 201k has the SES light on with a p0740 code that came back after clearing the codes. it drives fine and has been very well serviced and the trans is still very clean inside and no other problems. i saw that someone else had this fixed with this gen of car, but they didnt say how much it costed to have the solenoid changed. i'm just wondering what to expect so i can start saving for it. Thanks!
Nahkapohjola
10-10-2011, 01:10 AM
my 2000 Maxima auto. trans. with 201k has the SES light on with a p0740 code that came back after clearing the codes. it drives fine and has been very well serviced and the trans is still very clean inside and no other problems. i saw that someone else had this fixed with this gen of car, but they didnt say how much it costed to have the solenoid changed. i'm just wondering what to expect so i can start saving for it. Thanks!
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When was the last full A/T fluid change. Not the nissan lip fluid service -but- FULL change?
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p0740 = No transmission torque converter lock means (ONLY after 20 minute warmup) just 10% fuel consumption increase - this non essential feature works only on steady higway driving over 45mph. Depends how you use your car, seems impossible to ever get full A/T rebuild price covered with that minuscle cost - except IF you drive daily 300 miles on highway. If your daily drive is only two 20 minute stunts, you will never know the difference - as the lockup never comes ON anyway.
NONESSENTIAL: most automatic transmissions never even used to have this converter lock (now seems to be industry standard).
I suggest you change now oil - see the linky page below how it is done and why. As said, FLUID SWAP IS NOT done as the (here incredibly lousy) nissan factory manual suggests. There seems to be a A/T rebuild salesmen conspiracy there.
Next measure charge voltage - at TCU. To function error free, voltage when idling has to be 13.5V minimum - AT TCU CONNECTOR - right behind the panel near your gas pedal. Voltage there has to be definitely measured from/between the connector positive and ground pins to catch possible grounding problems and actual voltage level. This TCU drives the Lock-solenoid in the tranny. Go through my CDomain pages to get an idea how where, 'all' stuff very similar...
---> Then clean all related electronics connector contacts, groundings...
For the fault and its chrasteristics, see this linky: http://repairpal.com/OBD-II-Code-P0740 ...talky there is general and about 95% right. Read at least how rpm is affacted etc so u know what to watch (your fault code can always be balooney).
Test: When/If lock does not come ON, stop the engine. This resets TCU program which may have 'hung up' like windows. Mine does that wice a year ... meaning no lockup, but no codes.
The actual solenoid in the tranny can also be broken - resistance can be measured: run self diagnostics, it should give a code on that. Swapping it should be couple of hours work plus the spares (guesstimete 500$) ... also a price you'll never get 'refunded' by fuel savings.
.
When was the last full A/T fluid change. Not the nissan lip fluid service -but- FULL change?
.
p0740 = No transmission torque converter lock means (ONLY after 20 minute warmup) just 10% fuel consumption increase - this non essential feature works only on steady higway driving over 45mph. Depends how you use your car, seems impossible to ever get full A/T rebuild price covered with that minuscle cost - except IF you drive daily 300 miles on highway. If your daily drive is only two 20 minute stunts, you will never know the difference - as the lockup never comes ON anyway.
NONESSENTIAL: most automatic transmissions never even used to have this converter lock (now seems to be industry standard).
I suggest you change now oil - see the linky page below how it is done and why. As said, FLUID SWAP IS NOT done as the (here incredibly lousy) nissan factory manual suggests. There seems to be a A/T rebuild salesmen conspiracy there.
Next measure charge voltage - at TCU. To function error free, voltage when idling has to be 13.5V minimum - AT TCU CONNECTOR - right behind the panel near your gas pedal. Voltage there has to be definitely measured from/between the connector positive and ground pins to catch possible grounding problems and actual voltage level. This TCU drives the Lock-solenoid in the tranny. Go through my CDomain pages to get an idea how where, 'all' stuff very similar...
---> Then clean all related electronics connector contacts, groundings...
For the fault and its chrasteristics, see this linky: http://repairpal.com/OBD-II-Code-P0740 ...talky there is general and about 95% right. Read at least how rpm is affacted etc so u know what to watch (your fault code can always be balooney).
Test: When/If lock does not come ON, stop the engine. This resets TCU program which may have 'hung up' like windows. Mine does that wice a year ... meaning no lockup, but no codes.
The actual solenoid in the tranny can also be broken - resistance can be measured: run self diagnostics, it should give a code on that. Swapping it should be couple of hours work plus the spares (guesstimete 500$) ... also a price you'll never get 'refunded' by fuel savings.
SteVB
10-11-2011, 11:28 AM
the trans fluid, filter and gasket was done by myself about 30k miles ago(yeah, i know, its about ready again, i just didnt only wanna do it if this needed to be fixed also) and was very clean before that (had always been serviced @ facory intervals).
So really nothing major to worry about right now, right? i'll check the connections at the TCM like you said in the meantime. Thanks!
So really nothing major to worry about right now, right? i'll check the connections at the TCM like you said in the meantime. Thanks!
Nahkapohjola
10-11-2011, 01:12 PM
the trans fluid, filter and gasket was done by myself about 30k miles ago(yeah, i know, its about ready again, i just didnt only wanna do it if this needed to be fixed also) and was very clean before that (had always been serviced @ facory intervals).
So really nothing major to worry about right now, right? i'll check the connections at the TCM like you said in the meantime. Thanks!
If the vehicle is sold / approaching JY in next 5 yrs, just drive. However, if theres a nonvisible reason(s) to try to keep it next ten years, then maybe it pays to tackle the problem unto full rebuild.
If oil is clean and no other tranny problems - my guess is that the issue is lots more stable than Fukushima.
(Cesium-Note: nowadays I drive A/C and recirc ON, use a hepa/carbon filtering mini device inside cabin, pwred by DC/ACVoltage converter.)
So really nothing major to worry about right now, right? i'll check the connections at the TCM like you said in the meantime. Thanks!
If the vehicle is sold / approaching JY in next 5 yrs, just drive. However, if theres a nonvisible reason(s) to try to keep it next ten years, then maybe it pays to tackle the problem unto full rebuild.
If oil is clean and no other tranny problems - my guess is that the issue is lots more stable than Fukushima.
(Cesium-Note: nowadays I drive A/C and recirc ON, use a hepa/carbon filtering mini device inside cabin, pwred by DC/ACVoltage converter.)
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