power door locks not working

I have a 2007 uplander. The doors will unlock, but will not lock from any door switch. I can hear a clock from under the dash when I press the lock button. Has anyone else had this issue or have any ideas on how to fix it?

If you hear a click, could be a bad relay....

Same problem here with my 2008 Uplander. Unlock works fine. Power Lock doesn't work at all at any door, no sound at all. Key Fob doesn't work, lock switch doesn't work.

Wouldn't be too big of a problem except that there is no way to manually lock the liftgate.

I bought mine used a couple years ago and I can't afford dealer prices to repair.

Quick update to my post. If I try the door lock switch on the passenger side, I hear a very quiet click on the driver's side. If I try the door lock switch on the driver side, I hear nothing.

I have a 2008 Checy uplander. It is the basic LT model . I do not have automatic doors. My passenger sliding door will not lock. I am using the key fob to lock the door and it does not lock. I also try from the drivers side panel and it will not lock either. Any help on this? it is ONLY the one door... everything else works

If you have power to the actuator, you need an actuator....unfortunately, you have to remove the door panel to access it.....

I have about the same issue but backwards, my 2007 chevy uplander will not unlock unless it has come out of drive to park, also my replacement remotes will not program, what is the possible cause?

I have a 2008 Chevy Uplander LS. The power door lock will not lock with either door switch unless the doors are closed. The delay lock feature also does not work. When the switch is pressed for the first time, the chime sounds as if it is arming the system to lock the doors, but it never does.

However, if I'm in the car with all doors closed, the switch locks the doors with a single push. The system otherwise operates as normal. The doors unlock when placed in park and lock when taken out of park. They also will unlock with either switch.

I had the same sorta problem.. The passenger side would lock but not unlock, driver side ok. I took the switch out thinking I could clean it like I did with my old Oldsmobile Silhouette 2002, but the switch was completely different. Smaller components no way to take it apart like I did with my ol' olds silo.

So I went to a junkyard and got a replacement and it worked great again.

I got a door switch, a over head storage compartment, internal trim pieces, fuses, light bulbs and a set front signal light housings (mine had cracks) that looked brand new all for under $20 CDN !

Cheers.
Wayne.

Don't know if any of you are still having this problem...
My 2008 Chevy Uplander key fob will unlock but doesn't lock anymore..no big deal I just started locking with the electric lock switch of the door ...then that quits working and I have to lock each door manually (but can't lock the lift gate), but if I hit the electric door switch it will still "arm" the vehicle. Then out of the blue it may start working again and has done this a few times back and forth.
It started not working again this week, BUT occasionally will lock. I found this video online and am going to give it a try.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SKxmnyGtijg&autoplay=1
It makes sense to me that's it's probably corrosion or moisture or loose wires since it comes and goes.
WE WILL SEE!

Jbug419

I was wondering what your results were with your locks issue on the 08 uplander... I have this same issue among other related problems ( I am assuming they are related) mine started acting up one night when the alarm went off I went out looked saw nothing turned off horn with fob locked doors incase they maybe were not and as I turned away to the house I got Bout 5 feet away and same thing happened horn went crazy used key in drivers door to shut off horn this time and this repeated until I took battery out of key fob. Problem solved right must be bad battery but no course not that simple new battery better range no longer setting off horn but now doors dont lock with either interior door power switch nor the fob but the horn alerts as a lock confirmation and followed by another click (double) another audible alert but lights dont flash to confirm alarm is set inside display says delayed losing but never locks. That's only from door switches not fob fob only sounds horn or will unlock doors somedays if I manually lock each door with exception of rear due to lack of a manual optuon ( seriously) ??? Then when car is placed in gear all doors closed it sometimes locks and unlocks as designed but 98% of the time it wont lock at all accept manually!
Doors always unlock with interiors if locked manually and also if I press lock on fob when car is in drive it locks now and then like normal its so strange Chevy hasn't addressed this as I have seen it mentioned since 08 model came out. On top of that occasionally the trac cntrl stablizer brake light comes on when driving and if at a stop light on accel its like tranny wont grab 10% of the time till rpm lowers to 8-900 then goes great and even an occasional air bag light comes on for some reason. WELL THAT'S ALL I WILL SAY FOR NOW I'm sorry if its confusing or illegible I am not a tech person a d cAN barely see what I'm typing

Don't know if any of you are still having this problem...
My 2008 Chevy Uplander key fob will unlock but doesn't lock anymore..no big deal I just started locking with the electric lock switch of the door ...then that quits working and I have to lock each door manually (but can't lock the lift gate), but if I hit the electric door switch it will still "arm" the vehicle. Then out of the blue it may start working again and has done this a few times back and forth.
It started not working again this week, BUT occasionally will lock. I found this video online and am going to give it a try.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SKxmnyGtijg&autoplay=1
It makes sense to me that's it's probably corrosion or moisture or loose wires since it comes and goes.
WE WILL SEE!
Hey I finally found a way to direct message you haha I just posted a hurried up post relative to yours on the 08 uplander if you can find it haha I'm a rookie no doubt

did you ever find the cause of the problem ?

looking for solution, anyone know: what happens with these uplander power locks

I still having same issues weather is a bit warmer now I am going to attempt some volt meter tests to see if and where we are losing connection! I will be sure to get back to u as soon as I find a solution please do the same if luck locates you.

I have a 2005 Chevy Uplander LS. I replaced the lock switch on the drivers door already figuring it was not relaying to the other locks properly. worked for awhile and now its back to its old self. I can use the fob and it will always unlock the drivers side door, but intermittently it will not unlock any other doors uncluding the lift gate. and there is no key option for the lift gate. so i have to manually unlock the other 3 doors, but the lift gate there is nothing i can do to unlock that, if i put the vehicle in drive then drive a bit, it does the auto locks, then when i park it will unlock ALL doors. The switch i replaced in drivers side door, if i press unlock it does not unlock the other doors either. you can hear it sending the signal to the doors but doesnt actually unlock the other doors. Is this a PCM issue? or something else?

Sounds to me like a BCM problem.....the signal from your power lock switches, and key fob, go to the BCM....the BCM then activates the door actuators......the fact your doors unlock when put into park, means it is a programming problem in the BCM, or the BCM itself.....

Today i took my kids to school, when I parked, the doors did not unlock, or even try to unlock. only the drivers door unlocked. Looking at the wiring diagram for the vehicle. it looks like each actuator is independent, and are wired in series/parallel. but like you said it sounds like the bcm. I have read that the bcm MUST be changed by a dealership as the VIN is linked and then it has to be programmed. I have also found sites that sell the bcm core and package, core seems to be 50 bucks or so, and the entire package 200-300. Should I just bite the bullet and take it to a dealership? I was hoping this would be an easy fix and that i wouldnt have to drop 1k or more on this fix, I have already gotten the altenator replaced which I COULD not do myself because it required the engine block to be moved to change that out, there is a voltage regulator on the altenator which i read can effect things as well. so i had made sure that was changed out when they changed the altenator out. was almost 700 bucks to have that done. Other than those issues its been an excellent vehicle. Initially i forgot to mention that there has been issues, also intermitt with the A/C fan actuators opening up properly and for heating, wrong actuators opening. so air flow is directed incorrectly even though its set properly on the switches. This is another reason why i feel its the bcm. 1 other thing that i notice is when driving, the radio signal will cut in and out for a second.

The driver's door actuator is wired, independent of the other three......the other three actuators are in parallel, and share the same ground and power(the liftgate actuator, is also in parallel)....thus, you can program the door locks, three ways: all unlock when put in park, only the driver's unlock when put in park, or none of them unlock.....

You can can disconnect the BCM harness(es), and jumper the proper circuits to prove there is nothing wrong with the parallel circuit.....

Unfortunately, a similar BCM can't be taken out of another vehicle and used.......the VIN of your vehicle has to be programmed into it, and also the options of the vehicle......

Actually, replacing the alternator is not that hard.....it just takes a few extra moves to get it out.......not sure what you are talking about with the voltage regulator.......that is part of the alternator.....since you replaced the alternator, the regulator was in the new alternator.....$700 is too high for just replacing an alternator.....not sure if you were talking about the current sensor.....