starter problem maybe?
bigT5
09-25-2011, 02:21 AM
Just a little background on this.
on my 1996 chevy cheyenne 1500 last winter my starter went bad and actually ended up breaking a bunch of teeth on my flex plate, the starter was under warranty. However prior to it doing this when I started the truck and it ran for probably a second or two I would hear a clunk coming from down by the starter, it only clunks once per start, also it seemed to start harder than it should have.
So my problem is this the clunk is back about 1 and a half years later and it is starting hard again but it seems to only be in the morning (it's not that cold yet) for it to start hard but the clunk is always there. what could be causing this? has anyone had this problem?
on my 1996 chevy cheyenne 1500 last winter my starter went bad and actually ended up breaking a bunch of teeth on my flex plate, the starter was under warranty. However prior to it doing this when I started the truck and it ran for probably a second or two I would hear a clunk coming from down by the starter, it only clunks once per start, also it seemed to start harder than it should have.
So my problem is this the clunk is back about 1 and a half years later and it is starting hard again but it seems to only be in the morning (it's not that cold yet) for it to start hard but the clunk is always there. what could be causing this? has anyone had this problem?
j cAT
09-25-2011, 09:48 AM
Just a little background on this.
on my 1996 chevy cheyenne 1500 last winter my starter went bad and actually ended up breaking a bunch of teeth on my flex plate, the starter was under warranty. However prior to it doing this when I started the truck and it ran for probably a second or two I would hear a clunk coming from down by the starter, it only clunks once per start, also it seemed to start harder than it should have.
So my problem is this the clunk is back about 1 and a half years later and it is starting hard again but it seems to only be in the morning (it's not that cold yet) for it to start hard but the clunk is always there. what could be causing this? has anyone had this problem?
starter motors need be shimmed to properly engage the flywheel teeth. If not the flywheel and/or starter will get damaged.
manually engage the starter teeth to the flywheel teeth. you must have 1/8 gap....to close the starter will bind too far the gear teeth get worn with poor engagement.
I have found USA INDUSTRIES have good qualiy starters that fit correctly..so far no shimming required..
MOST BACKYARD D.I.Y. PEOPLE DO NOT CHECK THE GAP !
on my 1996 chevy cheyenne 1500 last winter my starter went bad and actually ended up breaking a bunch of teeth on my flex plate, the starter was under warranty. However prior to it doing this when I started the truck and it ran for probably a second or two I would hear a clunk coming from down by the starter, it only clunks once per start, also it seemed to start harder than it should have.
So my problem is this the clunk is back about 1 and a half years later and it is starting hard again but it seems to only be in the morning (it's not that cold yet) for it to start hard but the clunk is always there. what could be causing this? has anyone had this problem?
starter motors need be shimmed to properly engage the flywheel teeth. If not the flywheel and/or starter will get damaged.
manually engage the starter teeth to the flywheel teeth. you must have 1/8 gap....to close the starter will bind too far the gear teeth get worn with poor engagement.
I have found USA INDUSTRIES have good qualiy starters that fit correctly..so far no shimming required..
MOST BACKYARD D.I.Y. PEOPLE DO NOT CHECK THE GAP !
Schurkey
09-25-2011, 02:15 PM
starter motors need be shimmed to properly engage the flywheel teeth. If not the flywheel and/or starter will get damaged.
manually engage the starter teeth to the flywheel teeth. you must have 1/8 gap....to close the starter will bind too far the gear teeth get worn with poor engagement.
I have found USA INDUSTRIES have good qualiy starters that fit correctly..so far no shimming required..
MOST BACKYARD D.I.Y. PEOPLE DO NOT CHECK THE GAP !
1/8 gap is double the recommended spec.
Typically, .040--.060 is suggested.
Does the starter have the front brace/bracket, or did some bonehead "forget" to re-install it?
Does the starter have the CORRECT bolts, in good condition, or did some bonehead use "generic" bolts? The correct bolts have a knurl near the threads to provide precise location of the starter. Worn knurl, bent bolts, or "wrong", generic bolts can all cause alignment issues.
manually engage the starter teeth to the flywheel teeth. you must have 1/8 gap....to close the starter will bind too far the gear teeth get worn with poor engagement.
I have found USA INDUSTRIES have good qualiy starters that fit correctly..so far no shimming required..
MOST BACKYARD D.I.Y. PEOPLE DO NOT CHECK THE GAP !
1/8 gap is double the recommended spec.
Typically, .040--.060 is suggested.
Does the starter have the front brace/bracket, or did some bonehead "forget" to re-install it?
Does the starter have the CORRECT bolts, in good condition, or did some bonehead use "generic" bolts? The correct bolts have a knurl near the threads to provide precise location of the starter. Worn knurl, bent bolts, or "wrong", generic bolts can all cause alignment issues.
j cAT
09-25-2011, 07:21 PM
1/8 gap is double the recommended spec.
Typically, .040--.060 is suggested.
Does the starter have the front brace/bracket, or did some bonehead "forget" to re-install it?
Does the starter have the CORRECT bolts, in good condition, or did some bonehead use "generic" bolts? The correct bolts have a knurl near the threads to provide precise location of the starter. Worn knurl, bent bolts, or "wrong", generic bolts can all cause alignment issues.
.125 or 1/8 inch is what i use on gm starters on the GAP..040 is too close..this is what is recommended when you read the instructions that come with the starter. gm does say in the manual .020 inches.. I have never had any problems with the number. .125 inch
when the starter ages this .020 in causes problems....
good point on those starter bolts ! you must use the correct mounting hardware ...the shoulders on those bolts lock in the motor from moving..
Typically, .040--.060 is suggested.
Does the starter have the front brace/bracket, or did some bonehead "forget" to re-install it?
Does the starter have the CORRECT bolts, in good condition, or did some bonehead use "generic" bolts? The correct bolts have a knurl near the threads to provide precise location of the starter. Worn knurl, bent bolts, or "wrong", generic bolts can all cause alignment issues.
.125 or 1/8 inch is what i use on gm starters on the GAP..040 is too close..this is what is recommended when you read the instructions that come with the starter. gm does say in the manual .020 inches.. I have never had any problems with the number. .125 inch
when the starter ages this .020 in causes problems....
good point on those starter bolts ! you must use the correct mounting hardware ...the shoulders on those bolts lock in the motor from moving..
bigT5
09-25-2011, 09:09 PM
ok so this gap is probably wrong or possibly the hardware on mine and it is probably causing problems a year and a half later because of the way it wears? and after it starts doing this if i fix the gap will it be ok?
j cAT
09-26-2011, 09:12 AM
ok so this gap is probably wrong or possibly the hardware on mine and it is probably causing problems a year and a half later because of the way it wears? and after it starts doing this if i fix the gap will it be ok?
if the gap was too close the starter bushing wears. also the flywheel teeth get distorted. then you get the starter engagement to cause your issues.
drop starter, disconnect battery ground first. see what the bolts look like and see if the starter bushing/bearing, flywheel,gap has any issues..have the auto part store test it..
go to scrap yard if you need the proper bolts/bracket if wrong missing.
rotate engine to check flywheel teeth. use chaulk to mark flywheel so you are sure its all good..if teeth damaged use a file to remove distorted metal if not too bad.
if the gap was too close the starter bushing wears. also the flywheel teeth get distorted. then you get the starter engagement to cause your issues.
drop starter, disconnect battery ground first. see what the bolts look like and see if the starter bushing/bearing, flywheel,gap has any issues..have the auto part store test it..
go to scrap yard if you need the proper bolts/bracket if wrong missing.
rotate engine to check flywheel teeth. use chaulk to mark flywheel so you are sure its all good..if teeth damaged use a file to remove distorted metal if not too bad.
bigT5
09-28-2011, 01:04 AM
ok well i pulled my starter and took it to the guy that fixed my flex plate and starter last time. he said that there is no shims for this kind of starter and that its under warranty still and to go home put it back in and bring it to him in the morning, but i put it back in and the clunk mysteriously went away i havent heard it since, however it still has been turning over a couple times in the morning but it has been fairly colder now so maybe thats just it now.
j cAT
09-28-2011, 08:47 AM
ok well i pulled my starter and took it to the guy that fixed my flex plate and starter last time. he said that there is no shims for this kind of starter and that its under warranty still and to go home put it back in and bring it to him in the morning, but i put it back in and the clunk mysteriously went away i havent heard it since, however it still has been turning over a couple times in the morning but it has been fairly colder now so maybe thats just it now.
what you where instructed to do was check the gap of the starter gear teeth to that of the flywheel teeth. also to check ALL the flywheel teeth for damage.
this person is wrong on shims. the starter motors do need shims at times all if the fit is wrong.
describe what the starter mounting bolts look like...do they have a small amount of threads with a very long shoulder with no threads ?
reinstalling this the starter may have been mounted slightly different from where it was. this goes back to the gap ! could also be loose bolts.
what you where instructed to do was check the gap of the starter gear teeth to that of the flywheel teeth. also to check ALL the flywheel teeth for damage.
this person is wrong on shims. the starter motors do need shims at times all if the fit is wrong.
describe what the starter mounting bolts look like...do they have a small amount of threads with a very long shoulder with no threads ?
reinstalling this the starter may have been mounted slightly different from where it was. this goes back to the gap ! could also be loose bolts.
spunbearings
09-29-2011, 02:56 PM
I used to have some what of the same problem with my 68 chrysler. I would get dead spots in the starter and have to replace it at least once a year. So much for the rebuilt starters. It would clunk when i first turned the key then the next turn it would start. After time the dead spot got bigger where turning the key dozens of times didn't work and had to replace the starter.
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