TPS or something else?

Last week Thursday the engine light came on with I believe a P0122 code, the TPS voltage low. Well, after waiting a few days for the parts to show up at a local parts store, I changed out the TPS and connector. Decided to remove the throttle body to make it easier to get to, and while it was out, I used a whole can of throttle body/ air intake cleaner to remove carbon build up (which it did a great job of, btw). After installation, I left the splicing for last, and used scotch locks, or crimp connectors, whichever one prefers and wrapped enough electrical tape around to protect it. After starting the car, the code came back and my reader erased it a few times. After banging my head against the wall I went back to the parts shop to ask and they said that sometimes, since the TPS, IAC valve and MAF sensor are mounted on the throttle body, it could be one, the other or all of the coming up to be going bad to give you codes, no matter what codes they are. Well, I don't have professional diagnostic machinery available at my fingertips, so I will just have to wait to go to the shop on Monday. Is any of what I was told true, or could it be a bad sensor? Just wish I could do this stuff on my own, but this is a first for me.:banghead:

On a 2004, P0122 sets if the TPS voltage is below 0.1 volts for more than 1 second.
FWIW the FSM diagnostics process does not make mention of a MAP or IAC sensor. It mainly covers the checking TPS circuit continuity and sensor itself. I'ld look for a problem with the connectors or wiring harness.

On a 2004, P0122 sets if the TPS voltage is below 0.1 volts for more than 1 second.
FWIW the FSM diagnostics process does not make mention of a MAP or IAC sensor. It mainly covers the checking TPS circuit continuity and sensor itself. I'ld look for a problem with the connectors or wiring harness.

My mechanic also said that it may be the connections. Since I used scotch locks to splice the wires, he told me that they are normally used for higher voltage applications and the TPS wiring is so low voltage and "delicate" that these need more of a solid connection so as not to give off fault codes. He mentioned that I am still able to drive my car, because he found nothing else wrong with my fix, and next week when he has time will solder the wiring together and would be surprised if this wasn't the issue. I will post next week when all is said and done and hopefully the code disappears.

This is all guess work without a scan tool......

Need to look at TPS data......closed, around .45 volts, open completely 4.5 volts......

Sure you installed the tps correctly(don't remember if this uses a lever to catch the tps)?

As for those quick locks, have seen problems.....solder the joints....

I once got a TPS light and took it out and put the same one back in and cleared the code. I went over a year before I got another code. I replaced it at that time.

Chris.