Wire Tuck Anyone?

I've been doing a lot of reading on this lately and have fallen in love with the idea. Just curious if anyone has thought about this or even attempted it?

I know what needs to be done but have only seen very few 4g's with it done.
Are any of you out there?

got one in the driveway...don't have pcs though :-(

I've been doing a lot of reading on this lately and have fallen in love with the idea. Just curious if anyone has thought about this or even attempted it?

I know what needs to be done but have only seen very few 4g's with it done.
Are any of you out there?



Dude, it's such a clean swap, looks like an EF9, why mess with it?

got one in the driveway...don't have pcs though :-(
:useless:



Dude, it's such a clean swap, looks like an EF9, why mess with it?

I wouldn't even think about it on my current car, it's actually out of the question anyway since the fenders are molded to the bumper and side skirts.
I'm just planning my next project and was curious as to how extreme some 4g'rs have went.

I'm just planning my next project and was curious as to how extreme some 4g'rs have went.


Whats the next project?


Would be interesting to see how far you could go with it.

I've seen some hotrods that were pretty extreme, but on an old carb engine it's easy to do, all you need between the engine and car is power, earth and fuel.

There are a few more connections on a modern fuel injected set up.

The next project will hopefully be a fully built lsvtec powered 4g hatch. I'd like to start racing on the road course and see if I can give my buddies S2000 a run for his money.

Some small details of my vision:
- JDM Inspired (I want it to look like Moppies old EF hatch, If I remember correctly it was black?)
- Wire Tuck as extreme as I can take it without loosing functionality
- Possibly an awd conversion if I can find a way to steal LadyNReds car for parts:lol2:

There's so much more that I can't even explain, I need to leave some surprises for my future post's!

If all goes according to plan I'm heading down to the salvage yard on Saturday to pull myself a B18a1 from a 90 integra LS with 194,000 km. Engine is hella clean, not a leak or oil stain in sight!

Wire tucks clean up the bay a ton, but if I were to race it, I wouldn't wire tuck it just in case you need to get to something quick and your adding more weight to it(i know, how much can a wire weigh...)

Now for your current hatch, tuck would look great in it.

Very true, there are some things that I'll have to leave accessible in case something goes wrong, but for the most part all that wire and split loom can get tucked away. The added weight will be minimal, I'll just bump up the compression to account for the extra weight :tongue:

I wish I could tuck the wires in my current civic, too bad I would destroy the paint and body work to get the fenders removed. That car will stay as-is untouched. It's totally complete with the exceptions of re-upholstering the seats and headliner.

Time to start something new :ylsuper:

Very true, there are some things that I'll have to leave accessible in case something goes wrong, but for the most part all that wire and split loom can get tucked away. The added weight will be minimal, I'll just bump up the compression to account for the extra weight :tongue:

I wish I could tuck the wires in my current civic, too bad I would destroy the paint and body work to get the fenders removed. That car will stay as-is untouched. It's totally complete with the exceptions of re-upholstering the seats and headliner.

Time to start something new :ylsuper:

I keep forgetting that you have everything molded on it.

I'm a weight junky, wires add up. The crx I built I had went through the entire harness and pulled everything that wasn't needed, got rid of over half the harness, but it was a pure track car so the rear section of the body harness went straight in the can.

Some small details of my vision:
- JDM Inspired (I want it to look like Moppies old EF hatch, If I remember correctly it was black?)
- Wire Tuck as extreme as I can take it without loosing functionality
- Possibly an awd conversion if I can find a way to steal LadyNReds car for parts:lol2:



That we be awesome!

It wasn't black, it only looked black if I hadn't cleaned it.

When it was clean it was a really dark green/blue, it was a special factory colour that looked like a few different layers.
If I ever see another one like it I'll try and find the paint code for you.

AWD conversion would be very cool. See if you can get the drive line from an AWD B series powered Integra from Japan. Should be a lot stronger than the diff and trans in a D series Wagon.
The set up out of an Orthia Wagon should work as well.

You know there is a Bseries AWD over here too, don't know how well it performs, but there is one.

You know there is a Bseries AWD over here too, don't know how well it performs, but there is one.


I believe they all have the LS non VTEC engine in them.
All the Orthia's are non VTEC.
I have seen one, and one only VTi-R Integra that was AWD.
I saw the rear diff and the 8,200rpm red line on the tach.
Every other one I've seen has been non-VTEC though.


If your going with a B series based race car, then it would make sense to use the B series AWD drive line

The hard part would be fabricating the drive shaft tunnel and rear subframe mount.

Cr-v has the awd driveline, which will bolt right up to his ls/v, but I don't know what kind of punishment it will take, I'm sure more than the wagon driveline will take. I know nothing ofr Orthias, keep forgetting to look it up when I'm home..

Should be able to use the exhaust tunnel for the driveshaft, just have to work both in there. Fuel tank would be the issue here. Could try getting one from a awd wagon, assuming they have a hump in them for the driveshaft. Might actually be able to use a few wagon pieces for starting pieces and fabricate from there, worth looking into.

exhuast would be the easiest thing to fabricate though, your main cooncern should be the the tunnel for the driveshafts

Again, driveshaft takes the exhaust tunnel, exact same as it is on any of the awd vehicles you will get the driveline from.

You'd probably be better off getting a custom driveline built. I think your wheel base is shorter on the hatch than on the wagon, so you 'd either have to shorten it or get a new one. The rear diff has to match the transmission you use because the d series runs a different gear ratio than the b series. There is an awd hatch out there running like 400hp, can't remember the name of the company that built it, it's on youtube though.

Custom driveshaft fixes the wheelbase issue.

The ratio wouldn't effect it because it will have to be a Bseries AWD trans and you will most likely use the matching rear diff. You people are over complicating it mixing D and B series and focusing on the driveshaft. Custom driveshaft isn't too hard to come by and not that expensive to get one shortened, run it down the exhaust tunnel just like the CR-V is and reroute the exhaust.

Custom driveshaft fixes the wheelbase issue.

The ratio wouldn't effect it because it will have to be a Bseries AWD trans and you will most likely use the matching rear diff. You people are over complicating it mixing D and B series and focusing on the driveshaft. Custom driveshaft isn't too hard to come by and not that expensive to get one shortened, run it down the exhaust tunnel just like the CR-V is and reroute the exhaust.


The diff will be the easy bit, Honda don't make thier own rear diffs.
They use Fuji heavy industry units, which are common and all supplied "off the shelf".
For example the rear diff in an S2000 is the exactly the same as the diff in a series 6/7 RX7.
I have a suspicion the rear diff in the CRV is the same as the one in the Orthia AWD, and is the same as the one in the MX5.


Should be able to use a rear subframe out of a wagon, but use the B series Diff head.
Then either do a cut from a wagon chassis, or build some custom mounts for the subframe into the hatch body.

I'm sure glad I have this place with all the endless knowledge!!
I've learned more from these 2 pages of post's than searching the internet for weeks.

It sounds to me that the rear subframe/gas tank issue would be the difficult part. That, and sourcing out the B-Series AWD driveline/diff. I do have a friend that is a very experienced welder so building the mounts into the hatch body is an option!

Let's see how this lsvtec build goes before I go around saying I'm building a AWD hatch. :icon16:

There will have to be welding involved most likely. I haven't seen the rear subframe off a wagon vs a CRv so I'm not sure what modifications there will have to be there. Gas tank should be able to come right off the wagon and be done. Subframe really is going to require the most work.

90civicrider, check out www.hondacivicwagon.com there is a guy there that has a b series awd wagon - did all the work himself. He might be able to answer some of your questions. His name is Shenrie on there. He actually lives a few miles from me here in Boise, ID. Awesome car, he autox'd it all the time. There is a lot of good awd information on that site.