Anyone make window masks for the Revell Ferrari 458?

(See title)

Yes, Hobby Design
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/en/data/xagiap4y3opjlkjtukub.html

Yes, Hobby Design
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/en/data/xagiap4y3opjlkjtukub.html

That one says it's for the Fujimi kit.

Check here (http://www.escalemodels.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=627).

I only use window masks when they come w/a kit. With just a bit of patience and practice with a chisel-tip Sharpie, you can do the "painting" with that, as you can apply enough pressure at the right angle for the marker to take a "set" and then just move it back and forth a few times. I have slightly shaky hands and I have no problem doing this. Having a standard fine point also helps for smaller areas and doing corner radii. If you mess up you can polish the ink away and start again.

Compared to a model that I do use masks and then paint the black trim, when I don't have the masks and use the chisel-tip Sharpie freehand I have almost exactly the same clean results in a fraction of the time.

Some time ago i tried to do my own window masks from car blueprints, i guess that the idea is quite interesting, but a lot of test at diferent scale is requeried and is a little annoying but i guess that should work perfectly...just a comment

I only use window masks when they come w/a kit. With just a bit of patience and practice with a chisel-tip Sharpie, you can do the "painting" with that, as you can apply enough pressure at the right angle for the marker to take a "set" and then just move it back and forth a few times. I have slightly shaky hands and I have no problem doing this. Having a standard fine point also helps for smaller areas and doing corner radii. If you mess up you can polish the ink away and start again.

Compared to a model that I do use masks and then paint the black trim, when I don't have the masks and use the chisel-tip Sharpie freehand I have almost exactly the same clean results in a fraction of the time.

That is what I would normally do, but the trim section is not raised at all. The window trim is not defined on the glass. The glass is flat all the way out to the edge. This makes it very difficult to use a marker to do the trim. It also makes it almost impossible to cut masks to fit (like Alex does). This is my last hurdle to finishing this model and I can't figure out how to paint the trim! Very frustrating.

Heres a great tutorial from a great german modeler. Its in german, but pics speak for them selves.

http://www.scale-racing.com/78,0,-maskierfolien-erstellen,index,0.html

That is what I would normally do, but the trim section is not raised at all. The window trim is not defined on the glass. The glass is flat all the way out to the edge. This makes it very difficult to use a marker to do the trim. It also makes it almost impossible to cut masks to fit (like Alex does). This is my last hurdle to finishing this model and I can't figure out how to paint the trim! Very frustrating.

It makes no difference if the transition is raised or not, you put a bit of pressure down on the marker (it has to be a chisel-tip for this to work) from the edge of the glass until the tip is at the edge of the fogged area, then just move the marker back and forth along the edge (or make successive passes getting closer to the transition on each pass, using a bit more pressure). As long as you have a way to see the transition from the frosted area to the glossy area, you can do this, and a small amount of overlap will not be noticed. I've already built a Revell 458, I had no trouble at all w/doing the glass as I described.