CTS Steering wheel noise
jsnowbordr47
07-06-2011, 02:42 PM
I have an 05 CTS Sedan and it has developed an annoying steering wheel noise. The steering itself is perfect the noise is just really annoying.
I noticed the noise goes away if I pull the steering wheel towards me when driving.
Just wondering if anyone else has had this same noise in their steering wheel
Here's a video of the noise, you may need to turn your volume up a bit.
http://youtu.be/R1ViiHA0IFs
Thanks.
I noticed the noise goes away if I pull the steering wheel towards me when driving.
Just wondering if anyone else has had this same noise in their steering wheel
Here's a video of the noise, you may need to turn your volume up a bit.
http://youtu.be/R1ViiHA0IFs
Thanks.
GMCustomerService
07-07-2011, 11:18 AM
Have you brought this to the attention of your local dealer? I can also look into this for you. In order to do further research, I will need the VIN for the vehicle. Thank you in advance.
Tricia, GM Customer Service.
Tricia, GM Customer Service.
jsnowbordr47
07-09-2011, 08:55 PM
Hi Tricia,
That's why I've posted in this forum, I don't want to go to the dealer and pay them $150 just to find the rattle (not yet at least.lol) if it's something common and easy to fix that someone else has experienced and done.
Unless GM dealers treat Cadillac owners differently I expect to get charged a full diagnostic fee + what it'll take to fix it, they even charged me to do a diagnosis for my shaking engine on my 95 Suburban (Brand new GM Goodwrench 350 motor) that was installed at a GM dealership and to this day is still under warranty. First time they said the motor mounts were not replaced when the engine was installed and that they were now bad. After we replaced them ourselves, the shake remained. This time we took it to the dealership that did the installation. They charged us a diagnostic fee and said nothing was wrong and we should just drive it till it dies. In my opinion, if you spend $4500+ on a brand new GM engine and GM dealership installation, the engine should run smooth and shouldn't have people asking if something is wrong with the vehicle.
If the engine were old I could easily live with the shaking, but we're talking about a brand new GM engine here, and it shakes like there's no tomorrow. The dealership official response to our problem is that, "that's just how those engines are".
Back to the Cadillac
If this Cadillac was new and still under warranty I'd go to a dealership right now, but it's not.
Normally I wouldn't post the vin, but I'll take a shot in the dark. It's 1G6DP567950185710
Whether or not you can help, thanks for your time. If anything it's let me vent my frustration about GM customer service.
That's why I've posted in this forum, I don't want to go to the dealer and pay them $150 just to find the rattle (not yet at least.lol) if it's something common and easy to fix that someone else has experienced and done.
Unless GM dealers treat Cadillac owners differently I expect to get charged a full diagnostic fee + what it'll take to fix it, they even charged me to do a diagnosis for my shaking engine on my 95 Suburban (Brand new GM Goodwrench 350 motor) that was installed at a GM dealership and to this day is still under warranty. First time they said the motor mounts were not replaced when the engine was installed and that they were now bad. After we replaced them ourselves, the shake remained. This time we took it to the dealership that did the installation. They charged us a diagnostic fee and said nothing was wrong and we should just drive it till it dies. In my opinion, if you spend $4500+ on a brand new GM engine and GM dealership installation, the engine should run smooth and shouldn't have people asking if something is wrong with the vehicle.
If the engine were old I could easily live with the shaking, but we're talking about a brand new GM engine here, and it shakes like there's no tomorrow. The dealership official response to our problem is that, "that's just how those engines are".
Back to the Cadillac
If this Cadillac was new and still under warranty I'd go to a dealership right now, but it's not.
Normally I wouldn't post the vin, but I'll take a shot in the dark. It's 1G6DP567950185710
Whether or not you can help, thanks for your time. If anything it's let me vent my frustration about GM customer service.
GMCustomerService
07-11-2011, 10:07 AM
Unfortunately I was unable to find any information specific to your VIN regarding this concern. Please feel free to keep me posted.
Tricia, GM Customer Service.
Tricia, GM Customer Service.
Z15
07-30-2011, 10:13 AM
I don't think this is something you want to try to fix. One wrong move and you could set off the air bag working on the wheel and that could injure you and possible cause a fatality. The air bag is like a hand grenade if it goes off uncontrollable. Sounds like maybe something is loose? Fyi-I had a CTS V6 loaded with every option including premium red paint and it was nothing but problems from the very first day I had it. Mostly all electronic stuff but when the dealer service manager told me I needed new struts at only 23,000 miles, I traded it in on a 2009 AWD soon after. The 2009 is going on 20,000 miles and 3yrs and had not had any problems.
jsnowbordr47
08-16-2011, 10:28 PM
Well, I fixed the problem myself. Wasn't in the steering column afterall. It I took off the lower dash panel (5 screws and your standard retaining clips) And I found this metal plate or brace. It was making a noise but showed very little movement. I bent it a bit and the problem went away, but I also wedged a blue paper towel to limit the movement of the plate/bracket. After it was all put back together the noise is finally gone. I'm still not sure why it was making the noise in the first place. I saw no broken welds and the bolts were all tight, maybe it was just metal warp/fatigue since it's an older vehicle.
I came really close to going to the dealer. Had I not been able to fix it today, I probably would have scheduled an appointment for tomorrow morning. I'm betting I'd get a $100 minimum diagnostic fee and another $70+ to fix the problem in the dash.lol I find it better and more affordable to have a diagnostic done by an independent shop and then bring it to the dealership to have the work done.
Since I was in the mood, I decided to go after another rattle in the rear driver side door. On this one I'm thinking one of the clips is broken or missing, but there was just enough space between the door and the panel that unless someone sits in the rear seat and leans on the door, it sometimes rattles. Once again I used my blue paper towel fix and wedge it in to limit movement. So far it works fairly well and the towel is not visible unless you are looking for it.
I still have one rattle to find and fix, and I'm thinking it has something to do with the rear defroster wires, they seem to have a plastic cap and mine seem to be moving freely. I'll have to have someone sit in the back while driving at speed to test if the noise vanishes if they apply pressure to the wires.
I came really close to going to the dealer. Had I not been able to fix it today, I probably would have scheduled an appointment for tomorrow morning. I'm betting I'd get a $100 minimum diagnostic fee and another $70+ to fix the problem in the dash.lol I find it better and more affordable to have a diagnostic done by an independent shop and then bring it to the dealership to have the work done.
Since I was in the mood, I decided to go after another rattle in the rear driver side door. On this one I'm thinking one of the clips is broken or missing, but there was just enough space between the door and the panel that unless someone sits in the rear seat and leans on the door, it sometimes rattles. Once again I used my blue paper towel fix and wedge it in to limit movement. So far it works fairly well and the towel is not visible unless you are looking for it.
I still have one rattle to find and fix, and I'm thinking it has something to do with the rear defroster wires, they seem to have a plastic cap and mine seem to be moving freely. I'll have to have someone sit in the back while driving at speed to test if the noise vanishes if they apply pressure to the wires.
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