HELP! Power Steering Bolt Broke Off in Block

I have a 97 GTP. Had to remove the power steering pump and as I was reinstalling it, the top bolt broke off in the block. I have tried drilling it out and couldnt get it out. The shop I took it to says they can't get it out either. How many bolts hold the power steering pump in? I only have ever pulled out 2 i think, but I'm hoping that maybe one was missing?

Hi Duke!,

I'm sorry to hear that, and I have more bad news... unfortunately the steering pump is only held by two bolts so you MUST get that thing out before installing the new one or you'll have problems. :(

Oscar.

Drilling won't get it? Easy outs wont either?

The problem is that the bolt broke off jagged. The piece stuck in the block does not have a flat surface or anything even close to it. Both I and the shop tried grinding it a little, and then drilling, but the drill just kept traveling close to the edge of the bolt hole. There is not any part of the bolt sticking out of the block. Anyone have any suggestions on how to get the drill bit to stay centered? Also, I am told that if I drop the passenger side of the engine cradle, it is a straight shot to that upper power steering pump bolt through the wheel well. Anyone have a run down on how to drop the passenger side of the cradle? I think I did it once before a while back when I did the rack and pinion, but I don't remember. Just trying to get an idea of whats involved so I can plan. Thanks for everyone's help

Can I just support the engine from underneath with a jack, disconnect the upper dog bones, and unbolt the passenger side of the subframe and lower? Will this work?

You can have a look at the procedure in this great tip:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1016996

Just scroll down and you'll see how the frame was lowered.

Oscar.

ez out and a small torch it's about your only option, sorry that sucks!!

This may sound stupid but what is the torch for? Warm up the metal so its easier to drill?

Torches help in removing rusted bolts.

Did your bolt break off while tightening or loosening?

Lower the pass side cradle by loosening the large driver side bolts a turn or two and then loosening the passeneger side bolts the length you need. I keep a jack nearby in case they come out.

Use a centerpunch to punch dead center. Then drill with a small drill bit and then keep stepping it up in size. I've always had good luck with those reverse easy outs that seem to grab the bolts as you reverse them.

Just don"t break the eazy out!!! You can't drill threw an ez out!!

I broke the bolt while tightening.

Then it will come out easy. Just center punch, drill and use an easy out. You wont need heat.

One way to keep the drill centered would be to use a "drill bushing" of sorts. You would probably have to make your own. Basically what you need is a piece of short round steel tube that will fit into the hole. Since you've said the bolt is below the surface, the OD of the bushing would center itself on the wall of the hole. You'd probably need to secure the bushing by welding a piece of flat stock to it and then bolting the flat stock to the block in the opposite mounting hole. That should keep it from bouncing out of the hole. Then use a drill close to the ID of the bushing and have at it. Seems like a lot of work but if you've got a welder and a piece of tube that will fit, it's a method that should work. Otherwise, a die grinder and carbide bits might do the trick. The problem with the die grinder is that you'll have ZERO chance of saving the threads. You'll be drilling it out, retapping for a larger bolt. Chances are, if you've already tried to drill it out and the bit is not centered, you've screwed up the top few threads and hopefully a re-tap will clean them up. Basically, it'll be a PITA, no matter what.

As for dropping the cradle, why bother with just one side? Drop the whole thing by removing both rear bolts with a jack underneath and lowering it until you've got it where you want. Considering the work you're going through, removing one more bolt won't matter.

I am having great difficulty drilling a hole. The bits keep breaking. Are there any special type of super hard, super sharp drill bits i can use? Also, if I end up having to tap this whole, what is the next size that will rethread the hole appropriately but its corresponding bolt will still fit through the power steering pump? Thanks

yeah, there are tougher bits than HSS, but I'm guessing your problem is that the bit is getting "caught" and snapping on the rough edges of the bolt. A regular HSS bit should work if you can flatten the surface it's drilling with a die grinder or dremel and stone.The biggest problem is keeping steady pressure and control with a hand-held drill. (Drilling steel is a lot easier on a drill press than by hand, if you know what I mean.)

Another option would be to aim the drill at the threads where it won't wander as much. Then move the drill around the bolt just enough to stay away from the previous hole. Then you might be able to drive a pin punch into the holes and break away enough of the bolt to get it out. Just a thought. This would be messy and really booger up the hole, require a MUCH larger redrill-retap.

I don't recall what size bolt that is. It's metric for sure, probably M6 or M8s, no bigger than an M10. I know the sway bars are held on by M10's. Just removed that last week on my GTP because I noticed the the passenger end was separated where the link is attached. It looked like the flat end of the sway bar with the hole in it had "split" all the way around the hole. Upon closer inspection I found that it is actually 2 stamped pieces pressed together by the grommet that the link goes through. Water must have gotten in between the 2 pressed pieces and rusted. I cleaned it out with a hacksaw blade best I could, pinched it closed in a vice, again best I could, and welded it shut. But that's another story.

Sorry about the diversion, back to the bolt. Just look at the other p/s pump bolt. I'm 99% sure they were the same size. Go the next size up and see if it goes through the pump bracket. If it doesn't, your options are: a )drill and tap the block for a heli-coil insert that would allow you to use the same size bolt. b) drill and tap for a slightly larger one and drill out the bracket. This would mean you (or any guy after you) would have to modify a replacement pump as well. Good luck.

Fixing these cars CAN be a real PITA and require some ingenuity. I once snapped off a caliper bolt on my GTP. Couldn't figure how to get it out. Figured easiest way was to drill hole from the other side and just "pop" it out with a punch. Hah! Hole went in ok, but I had to use a sledge hammer and LOTS of beating to get that thing out.:banghead:

The bolt is an M8-1.25. The car is still at a shop, as I initially lost patience dealing with this, and they are gonna give it one last go around tomorrow. I already had it at another shop a couple of days ago. They tried and finally said they would have to pull the engine. This car is going on 15 years old and has 170000 miles. I'm not ready to drop close to a grand for them to pull the engine. If the shop its at now can't fix it, its back to my house and I'll drop the cradle to try to fix it. I can't see scrapping the car over a bolt, but I have considered it. This has been super frustrating.

Got it out. Dropped the engine down. Used a dremel to flatten the end of the bolt and then drilled out the center of the bolt with left hand drill bits. Then I used an easy out and pulled it right out. However, I still have my original rattling problem (in another post) and now also my ABS, Check Tire Pressure, and Air Bag lights in the dash are on and won't go off. What could this be? Thanks

Glad you got it out!

ABS and Tire pressure lights might be caused by an electrical problem with the ABS sensors at each wheel, are all conectors properly seated?, maybe you damaged one of the wires during the process. Same thing could apply for the air bag light.

Oscar.

Got it out. Dropped the engine down. Used a dremel to flatten the end of the bolt and then drilled out the center of the bolt with left hand drill bits. Then I used an easy out and pulled it right out. However, I still have my original rattling problem (in another post) and now also my ABS, Check Tire Pressure, and Air Bag lights in the dash are on and won't go off. What could this be? Thanks
Perhaps lowering the engine tugged on a wire harness somewhere. I would check the connection at the firewall and at the ECM.

Got the ABS and Tire Pressure lights to go off - was a disconnected harness behind the drivers side wheel well. Anyone know where the wiring harness runs in the engine bay for the air bag system and where the sensor(s) is? I had to lower my engine cradle to remove a broken bolt in the block and after getting it back together, the air bag light in the dash comes on and won't go off. Thanks

So, I probably did a dumb thing that messed this up (the air bag system). When I lifted my engine cradle back up initially, the rack and pinion didn't interlock with the steering column, so when I turned the wheel it spun around and around. This would have messed up the air bag components in the column wouldn't it?

Sounds like you probably damaged the clockspring. It is located at the back of the steering wheel and has a ribbon type cable which can be easily broken when stressed too much.

My windstar's clockspring got damaged (don't know how) and I took it apart and resoldered the wires inside. Worked like a charm!

It's been 3 months so far and no problems.

Oscar.

How do I get at that clockspring?

I have a PDF with everything you need to know but it's too heavy to upload it to the forum. Send me a PM or email with you rdetails and I'll be glad to send it to you.

Oscar.

PM sent. Thanks

You're welcome!

By the way YOU GOT MAIL!

HA I always wanted to say that LOL.

Oscar.

So if the clockspring is damaged, I should be able to see that as broken wires? If so, can they be repaired as the previous poster did, or must I buy a new one?

The best would be to replace it and yes, it's just a set of wires (ribbon cable).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4tXtPBWaKZI

The choice is up to you. If you have the skills to solder it and feel like it (or just canoot afford it at the moment), then go ahead; it's not like you're adding lots of wire that will affect the systems resistance and will cause your airbag not to work or blow prematurely, or you can just buy a new one.

Oscar.