2002 Dodge Caravan intermittent stalling problem

I have a 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport with a 3.3 V-6 with approximately 196,000 miles. About 2 days after replacing the crank position sensor the vehicle died as I was backing out of my driveway, so i put it in neutral and it started it back up. It was fine for a few days and now it seems to be getting worse. It now stalls at red lights,stop signs, and when rolling slowly like in a parking lot but it always starts right back up. I recently replaced the Plugs,Coil pack, Crank position sensor,Battery,Alternator,Fixed a few vaccum leaks,Put a can of fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank, Cleaned out the throttle body with throttle bottle cleaner, And put in a IAC (Idle Air Controller) from a parts van in. It's not throwing any codes and when it stals out it gives no warning it will be running great and then bam stalls out . Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Ok now for the new problem it started two days ago on top of the stalling problem.. Now sometimes after you restart it after it stalls it barely runs, When you push the accelerator it does not rev up or move at all if you turn it back off on start it back up a few times it will run fine until it stalls the next time that is.

P.S the van is also EGR Delete
Thanks

Normaly a good thottle body cleaning and or an iac would fix it. Maybe try cleaning it again then disconnecting battery or clearing computer with scanner. This relean the base idle.

Normaly a good thottle body cleaning and or an iac would fix it. Maybe try cleaning it again then disconnecting battery or clearing computer with scanner. This relean the base idle.

Thanks for the advice i'll try cleaning the throttle body out again. But theres no codes (Check Engine Lights) being thrown off to clear from the computer and im not sure what you meant by This relean the base idle.

Base idle will relearn all by its self but only after the computer has been cleared or the batter has been disconnected. You can still clear computer with scanner even if there are no codes. I usly use carb clean and a touth brush to clean thottle body. Hold thottol plate all the way open when doing this

Base idle will relearn all by its self but only after the computer has been cleared or the batter has been disconnected. You can still clear computer with scanner even if there are no codes. I usly use carb clean and a touth brush to clean thottle body. Hold thottol plate all the way open when doing this

Ok thanks I'll give it a try. Is it better to clean the tb with the van running or off, warmed up or cold?

Ok new problem started two days ago on top of the stalling problem.. Now sometimes after you restart it after it stalls it barely runs, When you push the accelerator it does not rev up or move at all if you turn it back off on start it back up a few times it will run fine until it stalls the next time that is.

Ok new problem started two days ago on top of the stalling problem.. Now sometimes after you restart it after it stalls it barely runs, When you push the accelerator it does not rev up or move at all if you turn it back off on start it back up a few times it will run fine until it stalls the next time that is.

Have you cleaned the IAC and throttle body like suggested before and have you disconnected battery for a few minutes so the computer is reset??

Have you cleaned the IAC and throttle body like suggested before and have you disconnected battery for a few minutes so the computer is reset??


Thanks for the reply tempfixit, Yea i disconnected the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer. No i haven't had time to take the throttle body and iac apart to clean it yet. I also noticed today that 9 times out of 10 that the stalling occurs just as the cooling fans kick on.

So i disconnected the battery today for about 10 minutes cleaned out the throttle body and IAC still no change.

Have you checked the camshaft sensor? check the coils for any cracks. Also check you TPS as they are a wear part.

Have you checked the camshaft sensor? check the coils for any cracks. Also check you TPS as they are a wear part.

Thanks for replying once again,

I've replaced the coil pack,Crank position sensor And theTPS Haven't got to the cam position sensor yet. After i replaced the Crank position sensor is when the stalling problems started. Is there a wrong way to install The crank position sensor? I have read other post on this forum that theres supposed to be a spacer on the tip of the Crank position sensor. I know there wasin't one on there when i bought it.

Yes the crankshaft sensor should have a paper spacer on it for proper setting. Here is a pic:

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0996b43f/80/20/23/bd/small/0996b43f802023bd.jpg

If you did not see a paper spacer on t may very well be out of adjustment, if that is the case I am suprised that it runs at all. You don't have a knock do you, if so I would consider checking the flexplate to make sure it is not cracked and throwing the timing off.

Pull the crank sensor, inspect the tip. If it's damaged replace it. If it's not bottom it out in the hole, pull it back a shade and tighten. You may have to do this a few times.

Yes the crankshaft sensor should have a paper spacer on it for proper setting. Here is a pic:

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0996b43f/80/20/23/bd/small/0996b43f802023bd.jpg

If you did not see a paper spacer on t may very well be out of adjustment, if that is the case I am suprised that it runs at all. You don't have a knock do you, if so I would consider checking the flexplate to make sure it is not cracked and throwing the timing off.

Thanks for the reply tempfixit,
No theres no knock at all. And im positive there wasn't a spacer on the tip so i went back to autozone today and asked them about it they said no and they don't come with one on them. But they do sell them seperately but the suppler didn't have any in stock and did not know if they would get any more in. O'reillys said they didn't know what i was talking about they never heard of any spacer. So im gonna get a spacer on the sensor and post results, Keeping my fingers crossed.

Thanks again,

Pull the crank sensor, inspect the tip. If it's damaged replace it. If it's not bottom it out in the hole, pull it back a shade and tighten. You may have to do this a few times.

Thanks for the reply RIP,

I'll pull the sensor and inspect it, And If it's not damaged im just gonna get the spacer for it. Because i was told at autozone they don't come with one but they do sell them seperately for $4 and wasn't told that when i bought it. Because theres no way to adjust the type of crank position sensor that's in my van here is a picture of the one for my van http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Crankshaft-Position-Sensor/2002-Dodge-Grand-Caravan-2WD/_/N-jhbj6Z8znbj?counter=0&itemIdentifier=361873_0_0_
So im gonna put the spacer on the sensor and post the results sometime this week.

Thanks again,

Yup, forgot 4th gen van sensors are fixed. Shouldn't be a need for a spacer.

Yup, forgot 4th gen van sensors are fixed. Shouldn't be a need for a spacer.

Thanks for the info RIP,

If there is no need for a spacer on the crank position sensor any other ideas or suggestions on what else might be causing the stalling problem?

Thanks again for all the help,

If the problem started after you changed the sensor, I would suspect the new sensor. It is not unheard of to get a faulty new item, especially an electrical item. I have had my share, and most came from the place where you got yours. So much so that I no longer buy anything there anymore. I even got a bad spark plug from there once, causing an intermittent miss that set me back a long time trying to figure it out. I would try another sensor. What caused you to change it in the first place?

If the problem started after you changed the sensor, I would suspect the new sensor. It is not unheard of to get a faulty new item, especially an electrical item. I have had my share, and most came from the place where you got yours. So much so that I no longer buy anything there anymore. I even got a bad spark plug from there once, causing an intermittent miss that set me back a long time trying to figure it out. I would try another sensor. What caused you to change it in the first place?

Thanks for the reply Alphabravo,

I originally changed it because of a missing problem i was having with the van. If the sensor was bad wouldn't it throw a trouble code?

My 1996 T&C van was doing the same thing and left me stranded in a New Mexican wilderness. The problem was at a communications ribbon cable connection. The base (receptor)in the dash instument cluster panel has solder joints that, over time develop radial cracks that can cause a disruption of the low voltage circuit. Oft times people have reported fixing the problem with a sharp slap on the dash over the instrument cluster. The best repair is to remove the instrument cluster and get to the back of the cable receptor, then resoldering the connections. Be careful not to overheat the foil on the circuit board. It takes some time, but was an inepensive fix that worked for me. I hope this helps.

Crank and cam sensors are infamous for generating erronious data without throwing a code. Take a close look at the connection and harness. If all is well get a new sensor.

My 1996 T&C van was doing the same thing and left me stranded in a New Mexican wilderness. The problem was at a communications ribbon cable connection. The base (receptor)in the dash instument cluster panel has solder joints that, over time develop radial cracks that can cause a disruption of the low voltage circuit. Oft times people have reported fixing the problem with a sharp slap on the dash over the instrument cluster. The best repair is to remove the instrument cluster and get to the back of the cable receptor, then resoldering the connections. Be careful not to overheat the foil on the circuit board. It takes some time, but was an inepensive fix that worked for me. I hope this helps.

Nothing is iron clad when it comes to the cracked solder joint issue but generally you will see several symptoms and not just stalling and it rarely effects 4th generation vans (01-07).

Crank and cam sensors are infamous for generating erronious data without throwing a code. Take a close look at the connection and harness. If all is well get a new sensor.

Thanks for replying once again RIP,

Should I Replace just the Crank sensor or replace the crank and cam sensors? I was also wondering if theres any chance the IAC is bad? I took the original one out cleaned and replaced it along the throttle body and that didn't seem to solve the stalling problem. The problem seems to be very intermittent last week it went two days without stalling at all, and yesterday at every red light i had to put it in neutral and "two foot it" to keep it running it would also stall as soon as i took my foot off the gas pedal to slow down for red lights or while coasting through a parking lot. And today it stalled maby 4 times all day.

The problem seems to be very intermittent last week it went two days without stalling at all, and yesterday at every red light i had to put it in neutral and "two foot it" to keep it running it would also stall as soon as i took my foot off the gas pedal to slow down for red lights or while coasting through a parking lot. And today it stalled maby 4 times all day.

If you can keep it running by "two footing" it, then in my opinion you're not losing spark, so it would rule out the cam and crank sensors. I would concentrate on fuel delivery or air. Sounds like a sudden vacuum leak, maybe? Maybe look at your EGR for a vacuum leak? Although the EGR should throw an SEL. Or maybe the IAC motor, like you said. It's so tough when you're dealing with these intermittent problems, they are so hard to diagnose.

Good luck.

Does it make difference if the air conditioning is operating or not???

If you can keep it running by "two footing" it, then in my opinion you're not losing spark, so it would rule out the cam and crank sensors. I would concentrate on fuel delivery or air. Sounds like a sudden vacuum leak, maybe? Maybe look at your EGR for a vacuum leak? Although the EGR should throw an SEL. Or maybe the IAC motor, like you said. It's so tough when you're dealing with these intermittent problems, they are so hard to diagnose.

Good luck.

Thanks for the reply alphabravo ,

The van is egr deleate so I think I'm gonna try the Iac I can get one for $40 keeping my fingers crossed I will post results.

Does it make difference if the air conditioning is operating or not???
Thanks for the reply Tempfixit,

No it makes no difference if the a/c is on or not.

I Had a problem w/my voyager skipping and stalling occasionally, Replaced the spark plugs, never happened again.

Hey, just to throw in a curve ball... Any chance the fuel pump is intermittently stopped working? Maybe it pumps up (starts) after the pressure equalizes but not when there's a higher differential pressure for it to overcome?

Maybe I'm just thinkin too hard?

SUCCESS FINALLY!!!! I replaced the crank position sensor today that i bought from autozone, when i pulled it back out i found that the actual magnetic sensor on top wasn't out as far as the one i purchased from the dealer and from what i've learned on this board that will cause all kinds of problems for the van. So now it runs like a new van again! Thank you to everyone for the great advice and tips! Without it i would have probably would have dumped the van into a river lol.

SUCCESS FINALLY!!!! I replaced the crank position sensor today that i bought from autozone, when i pulled it back out i found that the actual magnetic sensor on top wasn't out as far as the one i purchased from the dealer and from what i've learned on this board that will cause all kinds of problems for the van. So now it runs like a new van again! Thank you to everyone for the great advice and tips! Without it i would have probably would have dumped the van into a river lol.


Great, glad yu got it fixed and thanks for posting fix.

SUCCESS FINALLY!!!! I replaced the crank position sensor today that i bought from autozone, when i pulled it back out i found that the actual magnetic sensor on top wasn't out as far as the one i purchased from the dealer and from what i've learned on this board that will cause all kinds of problems for the van. So now it runs like a new van again! Thank you to everyone for the great advice and tips! Without it i would have probably would have dumped the van into a river lol.

Glad you found the problem. Like I said in my first post, I've had so many bad parts from A*Zone I don't buy there anymore. Thanks for posting the solution.

I'm having the same problem with a 1996 Caravan.. How did you finally fix the problem? We have it at the dealership now and they don't know. They want to do the cam sensor but we already did so they say they can try the flex plate for $800 plus! And they aren't sure that's even it.. HELP PLEASE!!

I'm having the same problem with a 1996 Caravan.. How did you finally fix the problem? We have it at the dealership now and they don't know. They want to do the cam sensor but we already did so they say they can try the flex plate for $800 plus! And they aren't sure that's even it.. HELP PLEASE!!
I replaced the crank position sensor and that solved the problem.

Hope this helps

Thanks for the reply RIP,

I'll pull the sensor and inspect it, And If it's not damaged im just gonna get the spacer for it. Because i was told at autozone they don't come with one but they do sell them seperately for $4 and wasn't told that when i bought it. Because theres no way to adjust the type of crank position sensor that's in my van here is a picture of the one for my van http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Crankshaft-Position-Sensor/2002-Dodge-Grand-Caravan-2WD/_/N-jhbj6Z8znbj?counter=0&itemIdentifier=361873_0_0_
So im gonna put the spacer on the sensor and post the results sometime this week.

Thanks again,


I had an issue like this with an Intrepid with a 3.3 once, no matter what I did, it would stall just like you are experiencing. I put a thin washer between the sensor and the block so to keep the sensor a little bit further away from the flywheel and that did the trick.


Wow, I didnt see the last page of posts that you replaced the sensor again and it fixed it.....

As RIP said earlier, if your Dodge Caravan or Chrysler Town and Country minivan is suddenly stalling, or having random trouble starting, check the instrument cluster. There are a couple of good videos on YouTube showing you the procedure, which involves removing trim pieces to extract the instrument cluster, then taking off a piece of cardboard to get to the printed circuit board. It's not hard.. takes less than an hour. You'll most likely find a cracked solder joint on one of the pins of the main connector plug that is soldered to the PC board, and that's where your electrical gremlin is. Resolder, adding some solder to the pin to improve the mechanical resistance to vibration.

My van is actually a 1996 T&C. I did have a problem with radial cracks at the instrument cluster ribbon cable connector many years ago. It would kill the gauges while driving and eventually left me stranded in the mountains of New Mexico's Gila forest before I figured that one out. Thank God for the internet.
My current problem stemmed from oil soaked vacuum lines lower left behind the engine. They had expanded at a plastic coupler allowing leakage. No codes. Engine speed would reduce (in drive) at stop lights enough to cause it to stumble, causing the tranny to rattle and engine to die. (170k miles).