Tremec Pro 5.0 Shifter

Keen to hear from anyone who has a Pro 5.0 shifter fitted to thier Tremec. I purchased a used shifter and am not happy with a couple of aspects of its operation. Interested specifically in the following;

1. Did your shifter come new with heaps of silicone in and around the base of the shifter? Mine has this and looks like this has been done to stop anything falling into this area instead of using a boot.

2. What is the spring loaded return to the 3 - 4 gate like? Mine seems very weak in return pressure and am wondering if the silicone is the issue.

Thanks, Kel.

Kel. Have you had a chance to put the new 369 engiine on a dyno yet? Can't help on the shifter, Looking forward to hearing how the new engine works, & the h.p. #'s.

Kel. Have you had a chance to put the new 369 engiine on a dyno yet? Can't help on the shifter, Looking forward to hearing how the new engine works, & the h.p. #'s.


Engine is in the car and been started to run it up to temp and leak check etc. Taking to track next Saturday to put some miles on it and then will be on dyno shortly after that.

It seems pretty short of vacuum at idle and wants to run on the main circuit to idle properly so will require quite a bit of setting up on the dyno (idle air bleeds etc) to get the carb spot on.

This is a good sign as far as I am concerned. The 347 required little change in carb set up compared to the 302 as was so mildly cammed.

In comparison to the 347 the 369 is very sharp on the throttle as well so looking forward to giving it the "jandal" as we say over here...........

Kel.

Kel,
I too bought a used Pro 5.0. Mine had no silicone on it at all. I installed it with a new cup for the ball and sealed it on the matting surface with sealer. I am still working on the motor installation so haven't driven it yet, but the adjustment seems right on and the spring load on the return seems fine- about like the OEM shifter I took out. The throws see better than the OEM. So far so good.

Glad to hear about your new lump. Going to be very interesting to follow your progress getting it dialed in and tested. Go get 'em. Here we say "flat out" which I'd guess comes from the loud pedal being flat against the floor board in the old hot rods with no pedal stops.

Mike

Kel,
I too bought a used Pro 5.0. Mine had no silicone on it at all. I installed it with a new cup for the ball and sealed it on the matting surface with sealer. I am still working on the motor installation so haven't driven it yet, but the adjustment seems right on and the spring load on the return seems fine- about like the OEM shifter I took out. The throws see better than the OEM. So far so good.

Glad to hear about your new lump. Going to be very interesting to follow your progress getting it dialed in and tested. Go get 'em. Here we say "flat out" which I'd guess comes from the loud pedal being flat against the floor board in the old hot rods with no pedal stops.

Mike

Hi Mike, thanks for the feedback. I will try digging the silicone out of the top of the shifter first and see if this improves things. Suspect this is the problem.

Yes, we have a few sayings here along the same lines "giving it the jandal", "nailing it", "flat to the boards", "flat out like a lizard drinking" etc etc. Petrol heading is a universal language I suspect!!

Kel.

Hi Mike, thanks for the feedback. I will try digging the silicone out of the top of the shifter first and see if this improves things. Suspect this is the problem.

Yes, we have a few sayings here along the same lines "giving it the jandal", "nailing it", "flat to the boards", "flat out like a lizard drinking" etc etc. Petrol heading is a universal language I suspect!!

Kel.

Found the cause of the problem............the shifter extension rod bolts were slightly to tight making the shifter bind due to lack of freedom of lateral movement. Backed the nuts off 1/2 a turn and good as gold.:smile:

Kel.

Kel. Have you had a chance to put the new 369 engiine on a dyno yet? Can't help on the shifter, Looking forward to hearing how the new engine works, & the h.p. #'s.

Ran the car on the dyno today, made max's of 435rwhp and 423rwftlbs (512hp and 495ftlbs at the flywheel) on Dynojet dyno. Max power was around 6000rpm and max torque around 4800rpm. Similar hp/torque as 347 up to around 4250 (347 was dual plane manifold and 369 is single plane) but piled it on from there on up. More than 380 ftlbs of torque at the wheels from 3100 - 6000rpm.

To up the ante on hp bigger inlet port runners required and shorten up the exhaust primaries 2 - 3". For the endurance work we are doing though the torque curve is perfect and pretty impressive (i.e. 1.34 ftlbs per cube on pump gas and at 10.5 : 1 comp) for an 8.2" deck engine. We will not be chasing more hp for current application.

Will post some pics, dyno sheets etc when I have time.

Kel.

Nice...very close to my engine. Should be interesting! Time to kick some ass!

Nice...very close to my engine. Should be interesting! Time to kick some ass!

Cheers Brian, yes we are looking forward to hitting the track in anger. We are planning to contest the NZ Endurance Championship this year hence the new build.

A little concerned about how the 275 rears will cope with the torque over 3 - 4 hours of racing but that will be part of the fun!!

Kel.

Kel. I noticed in a previous tread that you hadd a Jerico transmission in your car at one time, did you have any problems installing it? Any recomonditions? 4 or 5 speed ratios?

Kel. I noticed in a previous tread that you hadd a Jerico transmission in your car at one time, did you have any problems installing it? Any recomonditions? 4 or 5 speed ratios?

Yes, I purchased a used Jerico 4 speed via E Bay. Stripped and inspected it and changed ratios to suit road race. Put a new Long shifter on it.

I found the box reasonably easy to work on and thought the overall engineering was very good. Nice solid main case with advantage of good mainshaft to layshaft separation to allow generous gear sizing (bigger than T10 based boxes I suspect). I did not run a cooler as was only doing 8 lap races and used Redline lightweight shockproof oil which I had faith in to handle the mileage I was throwing at the box.

The shift was fantastic and I had absolutely no issues or concerns with the box. I have heard of people breaking them but I expect this is due to not cycling out parts frequently enough in high torque applications. Race bits will always break when they reach thier fatigue threshold.............!!

I only know a bit about the Jerico 5 speed through a local racer that has one in a high hp C4 Corvette. Had some case and breakage issues and this was a new box. I understand that a cooler must be run with this box in a road race application to prevent excessive case growth due to heat. This can effect the input shaft bearing support when no cooler is fitted. Another issue with the 5 speed is getting a bell housing that suits. I beleive that it has a 5 bolt pattern and there are few if any bellhousings made specifically for this so worth looking into if you plan to go down this track.

If I were going to replace the Tremec now I would either put a dog ring converted TKO600 back in (Liberty Gears supply these) or a Quaiffe 6 speed and go for a "flat shift" set up. This would be the optimal solution if you had the $$. My sponsor (Alert Motorsport - check out thier web site) has one of these in a Datsun 240Z that is fitted with a supercharged LS1 engine. An amazing combo that competes in Targa events and does very very well.

Kel.

Thanks for the info Kel, 2 questions did you have to motify the trans tunnel? why did you quite using it? When does your induro take place?

Thanks for the info Kel, 2 questions did you have to motify the trans tunnel? why did you quite using it? When does your induro take place?

The Jerico was in my previous car that I sold to purchase the Panoz. The car was a classic racer. 5.0 V8 engine, 460hp and 360ftlbs at the rear wheels. Yes I had to modify the tunnel in that car slightly to accomodate the Long shifter. Unsure about the Panoz but dont imagine it would be hard to modify as required especially if you have a welder.

While I loved the Jerico 4 speed in that car I could not bring myself to put a 4 speed in the Panoz (apologies to those who have in advance..........). Simple reason for this for me is that for the range of circuits that you can end up racing on, having the extra ratios to provide gearing options/flexibility is a big plus.

Given I do endurance stuff I like to keep the end of straight rpms down as well (6K'ish) and this is often difficult with a 4 speed without compromising gearing for slower corners.

Kel.

Just letting you know that I just installed a G-force GSR Single Rail Refurbished Nascar
Transmission and its AWESOME. Shifts like a dream and I think its good for 1000hp so at 650 it should last. I recently blew up a Tex 101 that had been in the car for 6 years and was likely 10 years old. I highly recommend GForce. Too bad my rear trailing arm let go at 110 mph and I hit the wall.....Tranny worked great though:)