Buying Tips?
EvilVin
05-29-2003, 12:53 AM
Hello, I'm looking to buy an '88 GT, 5spd with 78k. I was wondering if there were any inside tips on what to look for when looking at this car? It seems to be in good shape and you can't beat the asking price of $3500. Is there anything bad about that year I should know about?
Thanks for any help.
Thanks for any help.
Unit 5302
05-29-2003, 07:30 PM
I see you're located in Connecticut, which would make the car most likely a non-California model. This means the injection system on the car will be a speed density type. It also means more reliable in stock state at least.
First off, what has been modified for increased performance on the car? Extensive modifications by somebody who's unaware of how to tune a speed density car or even some changes like intake/heads/cam can cause issues if you aren't familiar with how speed density works.
Rear Main Seal
Heater Core
Torque Boxes
Electrical System
Exhaust
Ball Joints/Tie Rod ends
Power Steering Pump
Air Conditioning Compressor
Fuel Pump
Quarter Panels
Bottoms of the Door
Parking Brake
Check the rear of the engine for leaks between the transmission bell housing and the engine block. Leaks here usually indicate the car needs the rear main seal replaced.
Check the floor boards for moisture, and the turn on the defroster max heat to see if there is a lot of condensation that forms on the inside of the windshield. If you smell coolant or either of those two problems exist, it's likely the heater core is shot, and they're a bear to replace.
The torque boxes are located at the connecting point for the rear lower control arms. They are "C" shaped boxes that connect the unitized body to the control arms. When slicks and severe drag service are seen, these boxes are a weak point. If they look like the spot welds have been broken or look loose, it's a definate indication the car has been drag raced. Also, if they're completely welded up, it's a definate possibility somebody wanted to make sure they'd hold up to abuse.
By electrical system, just turn everything on, check the horn, and the lights and all that stuff. I've seen so many messed up fox bodies where somebody has gotten their monkey fingers into stuff and really caused some problems.
Check to make sure the exhaust has ball fittings at the back of the H pipe, and that somebody hasn't put some rinky dink Fleet Farm exhaust on it. I know it sounds trival, but clamped on exhaust is a nightmare to deal with, not to mention it robs power, and shows the previous owner wasn't necessarily holding proper maintanence high on the list.
Jack the car up in the front and see how much play you can get out of the front wheels. The ball joints are integrated into the A arm, and a new set runs about $200. The tie rods are a might as well check at that point.
How noisy is the power steering pump? Do you see any leaks from the power rack or pump? The noise is pretty common on Fords, and it usually points to an improper functioning system that can lead to some extra dartiness on the road. Also, is the power steering fluid gray? That would indicate a lot of wear on the power rack (aluminum) which is a common problem.
A/C Compressor. When you turn on the defrost or A/C does it start up and cycle? Is it knocking?
Fuel Pump. How loud is it? Does it change pitch or get louder as you drive? Those would be symptoms of a failing pump.
Quarter Panels. Look for any bubbling around the quarter windows in the back, and carefully inspect the wheel wells for rust old/new/repaired. Replacing quarter panels is a big and expensive job. The fox bodies are also very notorious for hatch rust. Check the bottom of the hatch at the latch. Rust there is indicative of hatch replacement sooner or later.
Rust at the bottom of the doors is also fairly common if the owner hasn't made sure to clean out the drains in at the bottom of the doors.
Does the owner use the parking brake? If they don't chances are it's rusted and partially seized. That'll lead to premature brake failure, brake dust, and odor should you attempt to use it, and an annoying drag down the road.
Hope these tips come in handy.
First off, what has been modified for increased performance on the car? Extensive modifications by somebody who's unaware of how to tune a speed density car or even some changes like intake/heads/cam can cause issues if you aren't familiar with how speed density works.
Rear Main Seal
Heater Core
Torque Boxes
Electrical System
Exhaust
Ball Joints/Tie Rod ends
Power Steering Pump
Air Conditioning Compressor
Fuel Pump
Quarter Panels
Bottoms of the Door
Parking Brake
Check the rear of the engine for leaks between the transmission bell housing and the engine block. Leaks here usually indicate the car needs the rear main seal replaced.
Check the floor boards for moisture, and the turn on the defroster max heat to see if there is a lot of condensation that forms on the inside of the windshield. If you smell coolant or either of those two problems exist, it's likely the heater core is shot, and they're a bear to replace.
The torque boxes are located at the connecting point for the rear lower control arms. They are "C" shaped boxes that connect the unitized body to the control arms. When slicks and severe drag service are seen, these boxes are a weak point. If they look like the spot welds have been broken or look loose, it's a definate indication the car has been drag raced. Also, if they're completely welded up, it's a definate possibility somebody wanted to make sure they'd hold up to abuse.
By electrical system, just turn everything on, check the horn, and the lights and all that stuff. I've seen so many messed up fox bodies where somebody has gotten their monkey fingers into stuff and really caused some problems.
Check to make sure the exhaust has ball fittings at the back of the H pipe, and that somebody hasn't put some rinky dink Fleet Farm exhaust on it. I know it sounds trival, but clamped on exhaust is a nightmare to deal with, not to mention it robs power, and shows the previous owner wasn't necessarily holding proper maintanence high on the list.
Jack the car up in the front and see how much play you can get out of the front wheels. The ball joints are integrated into the A arm, and a new set runs about $200. The tie rods are a might as well check at that point.
How noisy is the power steering pump? Do you see any leaks from the power rack or pump? The noise is pretty common on Fords, and it usually points to an improper functioning system that can lead to some extra dartiness on the road. Also, is the power steering fluid gray? That would indicate a lot of wear on the power rack (aluminum) which is a common problem.
A/C Compressor. When you turn on the defrost or A/C does it start up and cycle? Is it knocking?
Fuel Pump. How loud is it? Does it change pitch or get louder as you drive? Those would be symptoms of a failing pump.
Quarter Panels. Look for any bubbling around the quarter windows in the back, and carefully inspect the wheel wells for rust old/new/repaired. Replacing quarter panels is a big and expensive job. The fox bodies are also very notorious for hatch rust. Check the bottom of the hatch at the latch. Rust there is indicative of hatch replacement sooner or later.
Rust at the bottom of the doors is also fairly common if the owner hasn't made sure to clean out the drains in at the bottom of the doors.
Does the owner use the parking brake? If they don't chances are it's rusted and partially seized. That'll lead to premature brake failure, brake dust, and odor should you attempt to use it, and an annoying drag down the road.
Hope these tips come in handy.
EvilVin
05-30-2003, 01:59 AM
Holy Cow! That was one heck of a write up.
Thank you very much for the tips on what to look for. Most is common sense but the Mustang specifics will help me greatly.
I'm going to look at the car on Sat. morning. Wish me luck! You might just have a new Mustang owner on your hands!
Thank you very much for the tips on what to look for. Most is common sense but the Mustang specifics will help me greatly.
I'm going to look at the car on Sat. morning. Wish me luck! You might just have a new Mustang owner on your hands!
HiFlow5 0
05-30-2003, 10:01 AM
Hey EvilVin, where in CT are you located? I'm righ down the street in Springfield.
Another thing to check out is to see if the body has been stressed or crashed. Look at the front, and check the radiator support for straightness. I've seen plenty of mustangs that have had their share or front endears. Also check out the area in the hatch all around the rear of the car, just to make sure that hard hits to the rear were not taken. My friend bought a 88 and didn't look here. Where he got home and showed me I noticed the car sat crocked, and the hatch area was all pushed up from underneath. It got nailed hard, but was masked to the untrained eye on the outside. One other thing, bring a small magnet and test along the rear quarters, and other areas that could have been repaired from a crash. A magnet won't stick to bondo or fiberglass.
Another thing to check out is to see if the body has been stressed or crashed. Look at the front, and check the radiator support for straightness. I've seen plenty of mustangs that have had their share or front endears. Also check out the area in the hatch all around the rear of the car, just to make sure that hard hits to the rear were not taken. My friend bought a 88 and didn't look here. Where he got home and showed me I noticed the car sat crocked, and the hatch area was all pushed up from underneath. It got nailed hard, but was masked to the untrained eye on the outside. One other thing, bring a small magnet and test along the rear quarters, and other areas that could have been repaired from a crash. A magnet won't stick to bondo or fiberglass.
EvilVin
06-04-2003, 02:01 AM
HiFlow5 0,
I'm located in Wallingford, CT. I work in Manchester thou which is only about 20 - 30 mins away from Springfield. Do you go to the Berlin Turnpike at all? I'm there every once in awhile. Not my favorite place.
Well thanks for the tips. I ended up buying the car. It checked out except for being repainted and the heater core is shot but whatever. You can't beat the price I paid for it and the low miles it has.
I'm hopefully going to pick it up Thursday. Wish me luck. Hopefully I don't find anymore surprised when I get it home!
I'm located in Wallingford, CT. I work in Manchester thou which is only about 20 - 30 mins away from Springfield. Do you go to the Berlin Turnpike at all? I'm there every once in awhile. Not my favorite place.
Well thanks for the tips. I ended up buying the car. It checked out except for being repainted and the heater core is shot but whatever. You can't beat the price I paid for it and the low miles it has.
I'm hopefully going to pick it up Thursday. Wish me luck. Hopefully I don't find anymore surprised when I get it home!
HiFlow5 0
06-04-2003, 07:48 AM
Congrats on the new car!!!
I don't usually go to the Berlin Turnpike , but I do go to Manchester frequently. Either to the Buckland Hills mall, or to Mustangs Unlimited.
I don't usually go to the Berlin Turnpike , but I do go to Manchester frequently. Either to the Buckland Hills mall, or to Mustangs Unlimited.
EvilVin
06-04-2003, 06:34 PM
Thanks!!
That cool. I work in the mall.
It's right down the street from Mustangs Unlimited. I hear they are having a show this weekend or the next. Not sure. Thing that sucks is I can't go to it. Oh well.
Once I get the car cleaned up and to my liking, we'll have to meet up some time.
Later!
That cool. I work in the mall.
It's right down the street from Mustangs Unlimited. I hear they are having a show this weekend or the next. Not sure. Thing that sucks is I can't go to it. Oh well.
Once I get the car cleaned up and to my liking, we'll have to meet up some time.
Later!
HiFlow5 0
06-04-2003, 08:50 PM
Cool, another show, they had one not too long ago. I went there to get my new Fluidyne radiator, and just happened to find the place packed with cars.
Once you get that car all set, we'll have to make a trip to the track in NY.
Once you get that car all set, we'll have to make a trip to the track in NY.
EvilVin
06-04-2003, 10:48 PM
Sounds good.
I'll keep ya posted as to when I'm done.
Perhaps I'll make a run stock, then do my mods and run it again.
Kinda like a before and after thing.
I'll keep ya posted as to when I'm done.
Perhaps I'll make a run stock, then do my mods and run it again.
Kinda like a before and after thing.
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