2000 2.2 head questions

I've read a ton of threads concerning cracked heads on S10's before 2000. Did GM get any smarter on these or are the 2000 year just as bad the rest? I bought an Xtreme in good shape (cheap) except for the fact it don't run. Talked to the owner who had it when it quit and she said it just started running really rough and white smoke was everywhere. I figure a head issue. I checked compression when I got it (but before talking with her) and found 140 in the front cyl and 105 plus or minus a couple PSI on the other three. I started to remove stuff to pull the motor but now I'm wondering if it might just be the head or gasket. What should the compression be on a motor with 165K on it. By the way she had the head replaced 2 years ago because it overheated badly.(probably cracked then but she didn't know) This time she didn't see the overheat issue, just a lot of white smoke. When I got the truck I was content with the thought of replacing the entire motor but if I can save any of it, that would be cool. If I squirt some oil in the cylinders and raise compression, that should indicate rings correct? Wish I did that before I started taking stuff off. Is it likely the bottom end?

I've read a ton of threads concerning cracked heads on S10's before 2000. Did GM get any smarter on these or are the 2000 year just as bad the rest? I bought an Xtreme in good shape (cheap) except for the fact it don't run. Talked to the owner who had it when it quit and she said it just started running really rough and white smoke was everywhere. I figure a head issue. I checked compression when I got it (but before talking with her) and found 140 in the front cyl and 105 plus or minus a couple PSI on the other three. I started to remove stuff to pull the motor but now I'm wondering if it might just be the head or gasket. What should the compression be on a motor with 165K on it. By the way she had the head replaced 2 years ago because it overheated badly.(probably cracked then but she didn't know) This time she didn't see the overheat issue, just a lot of white smoke. When I got the truck I was content with the thought of replacing the entire motor but if I can save any of it, that would be cool. If I squirt some oil in the cylinders and raise compression, that should indicate rings correct? Wish I did that before I started taking stuff off. Is it likely the bottom end?

Engine should be in running condition before a good compression check can be done.
A engine that has been sitting and not run will not give good compression.
Coolant in cylinders and dryed out rings will stick rings and throw off compression check
Compression should no vary 15-20 percent from cylinder to cylinder or engine will run rough and has a miss.
Also to proper check for head gasket /cracked head/cracked block engine should be running.

White smoke is coolant getting in cylinders.
Blue smoke is oil getting into cylinders.
Any coolant in engine oil?
If so coolant in oil and engine run that way very lon is very hard on crank bearing.
If head and valve rockers is still bolted down and coolant system/raidiator system still.run a coppression check with oil squirted in plug holes.
And the pressure test coolant system and watch for coolant coming out plug holes.
If you have head part of the way off go ahead and pull it and send to machine shop
After head removed put you eye ball on head and head gasket for crackes and or burnt head gasket.
The send head head to a know good machine shop for a good check for cracked and warped head and bad valve.
Let us know how it goes.

PS
If you are not to far along on tear down.
To elimate and suprizes like blow engine from running hot or coolant in oil.
I would get engine to start and run long enough to listen to it good.
Just do not run to long to overheat it or witk a lot of ccolant in oi.
Is oil clean or white or claber/milkie looking?

Thanks for chiming in MT-2500, you've helped me on past Chevy occasions. Now I have this S10 to play with and I'm sure there will be more. Someone had started dismantling this before I got to it. The valve cover was off as well as the throttle body, air intake duct too. I went ahead and pulled the head last night. There is no water in the oil. The head gasket looked pretty good. I couldn't see where the water jackets had crossed over into any of the cylinders. A good ring mark around each cylinder too. I tried to attach a pic of the block with the gasket still there. Each cylinder was the same. The intake valves held fluid (gas) for a good few minutes with only 1 slightly seeping through. The exhaust valves all seeped pretty much straight away but none were pouring through. I did this from the top squirting gas through the intake and exhaust ports with head sitting on the bench facing down. With no tel-tale signs of massive leaking (burned or bent valve) or visible cracks, I plan on taking the head to a machine shop to verify it's good. If it is, I'll have them do the valves and seats and then I think I may just get a re-manned short block. With 165K, the cost to rebuild this one is the same as getting a re-manned. ???Is there anything I can do with the auto trans while the engine is out???? I think it was working good so I was going to change filter and fluid and see what happens.

You are welcome. Glad to help.
Make sure the machine checks for cracks and head warpage.

Yes some of the re-remans carry a long good warranty.

The transmission may need filter change and you can start adding the new type gm fluid.
Might be best toget the engine running first.
Then you can get transmission scanner on transmission and check it out and engine runnig at same time.
Good Luck and let us know how it goes.

Thanks again MT. Would it be a bad thing to change the fluid and filter before running. I only thought I would get the fluid from the stall converter as well this way.

Thanks again MT. Would it be a bad thing to change the fluid and filter before running. I only thought I would get the fluid from the stall converter as well this way.

You are welcome.

Yes you can change it now.
Just get as much fluid as you drain out back in it so it will not be low when you get the engine running.
Then top it off when engine engine is running and transmission is hot.
If not already change over or even it it has.
Good time to go FROM DEXRON 111 to the new Gm Transmission FLUID
ATF +6.
Good stuff and improves shifting and transmission life.
It will mix with the dexron fluid you probable have in it or it may already have ATF+6 in it.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Is the GM Dex 6 the only good option or can I go with Valvolines Dex 6?

Is the GM Dex 6 the only good option or can I go with Valvolines Dex 6?

GM oem is always best.
Valvoline does make good oil and if same specs as the gm might bem ok.
GM sometimes best price.
Check both prices.