2002 TB 63k, loses accel, sluggish, RPMs die
Longknife21
05-19-2011, 11:06 PM
Alright, so this is still a work in progress, but here is my data so far:
1) At any initial speed of 35mph and above (lowest 35mph, highest 85mph), the accelerator pedal will become mushy and will freely depress to the floor; the RPMs will begin a rapid but steady decline until the needle rebounds at zero, at which point I'm usually stopped, having hit my hazards and coasted to the shoulder.
2) If placed in neutral or park immediately, the engine may continue turning over; it may (lately more often) die instead.
3) All electronics continue to work; all lights, indicators, AC, radio, devices connected to 12v outlet.
4) If immediately restarted the vehicle may turn over properly immediately or (lately more often) it will attempt a start and then die again.
5) If restarted successfully and placed in drive, the vehicle will intermittently make it 100m, 1 mile, or all the way home (furthest after an incident was 17mi so far.) More often after initially occurring, it will recur through a half-dozen times, whereupon in frustration I let it sit, off, for between 10-30mins (shortest frustration wait = 10, longest = 30) and then upon a re-ignition, it runs properly all the way home without the least hiccup.
6) No scanner of my own, but my mechanic (good friend also) ran his handheld to my OBDC port and it came up with no codes and no errors. This has now been done gratis at three different mechanic shops and no codes or errors are seen.
7) The FP PSI is 47 when off; one mechanic was heard to mutter 48-56, but several of them agree that this is a little low but not catastrophic.
8) The fuel cap has been left off while running; this does not affect the issue so it is not a vacuum-in-tank problem.
9) All parts are OEM except gas tank; the original was axed into and drained, so I replaced with a salvage part. However, this issue occurred before and after replacement.
Even at a non-dealer mechanic, I'm looking at ~$1k to replace the fuel pump and full tests. I've got a "coil" test scheduled tomorrow for $100 (reasonable cost to my mind.) I have swapped the fuel relay with the AC relay, and before going to the shop tomorrow will do some drive-testing to see if it has anything to do with it. I'm trying to sell the damn thing, so I don't want to pour more than $200-$400 into anything in it, but I won't willingly, and can't legally anyway, pawn a lemon off on someone.
OLMG, is there no help for the *****'s son??
1) At any initial speed of 35mph and above (lowest 35mph, highest 85mph), the accelerator pedal will become mushy and will freely depress to the floor; the RPMs will begin a rapid but steady decline until the needle rebounds at zero, at which point I'm usually stopped, having hit my hazards and coasted to the shoulder.
2) If placed in neutral or park immediately, the engine may continue turning over; it may (lately more often) die instead.
3) All electronics continue to work; all lights, indicators, AC, radio, devices connected to 12v outlet.
4) If immediately restarted the vehicle may turn over properly immediately or (lately more often) it will attempt a start and then die again.
5) If restarted successfully and placed in drive, the vehicle will intermittently make it 100m, 1 mile, or all the way home (furthest after an incident was 17mi so far.) More often after initially occurring, it will recur through a half-dozen times, whereupon in frustration I let it sit, off, for between 10-30mins (shortest frustration wait = 10, longest = 30) and then upon a re-ignition, it runs properly all the way home without the least hiccup.
6) No scanner of my own, but my mechanic (good friend also) ran his handheld to my OBDC port and it came up with no codes and no errors. This has now been done gratis at three different mechanic shops and no codes or errors are seen.
7) The FP PSI is 47 when off; one mechanic was heard to mutter 48-56, but several of them agree that this is a little low but not catastrophic.
8) The fuel cap has been left off while running; this does not affect the issue so it is not a vacuum-in-tank problem.
9) All parts are OEM except gas tank; the original was axed into and drained, so I replaced with a salvage part. However, this issue occurred before and after replacement.
Even at a non-dealer mechanic, I'm looking at ~$1k to replace the fuel pump and full tests. I've got a "coil" test scheduled tomorrow for $100 (reasonable cost to my mind.) I have swapped the fuel relay with the AC relay, and before going to the shop tomorrow will do some drive-testing to see if it has anything to do with it. I'm trying to sell the damn thing, so I don't want to pour more than $200-$400 into anything in it, but I won't willingly, and can't legally anyway, pawn a lemon off on someone.
OLMG, is there no help for the *****'s son??
Longknife21
05-19-2011, 11:08 PM
As another note, I haven't replaced the "cam actuator solenoid" which I've seen possibly suggested as a fix for similar issues. I'm going to suggest it to my good mechanic tomorrow, because he'll discuss it to death happily before doing anything he has to charge me for (shout out to Simmons Automotive, Tacoma WA, "Service with Integrity".) He wrote off the labor for the scanner test earlier today, too.
maxwedge
05-20-2011, 08:38 AM
First of all when it won't start someone has to test for fuel pressure, basic diagnostics, then if ok a test for spark is next, also basics, if this is not done, it's all guess work. I assume there is a clean fresh fuel filter on the truck. Cam solenoid has no effect on you described problem. Ign switch can cause this also, but some symptoms are different, very common on the early TB's.
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