Stalling and no-start with '97 Chevy Blazer

Hello - I would sincerely appreciate any advice on this problem diagnosis on a 1997 Chevy Blazer, 109,000 miles:


Initially took car in to auto shop b/c Engine Light was on and I noticed black exhaust when I first started up car after it sat in garage for 4 weeks. While driving to the shop the car stalled unexpectedly - the ABS light started flashing and then the car completely lost power. I was able to restart with no problems and drove to the shop. They said the service engine light was on b/c of corrosion on oxygen sensor connectors and could not find a reason for the unexpected stall. They cleaned the corrosion and I drove home. When I took the car out again later that night, I was not able to restart it - there was a crank but no start. The stalling and no-start problem had never happened before.


Had the car towed to the same shop. They could not replicate either problem and said there were no codes. But they said the following issues needed to be addressed b/c they could be the reasons for the crank but no start: 1. replace split vacuum hose at vacuum canister under hood, 2. Ignition system tune-up, which included replacement of fuel filter, PCV valve, platnum plugs, air filter, distributor cap, ignition wire set, and distributor rotor, 3. Ignition coil R&R. OK'd the repairs and drove home.


Less than 2 months later the car started stalling again. There was no rhyme or reason to when it would stall - it could be night or day, hot or cold, braking downhill or idling at a stop light (one exception: it never stalled while accelerating). The ABS light would start flashing, the car would loose power, and all dash lights would come on. I would be able to restart it with no problems as before. Took it back to the same shop and in the diagnosis the technician mentioned that he intially had problems starting the car - crank no start - said it acts like an ignition switch problem but that it wouldn't cause the vehicle to stall. He proceeded to list the following as reasons as to why the car would stall: 1. CPI assembly R&R, 2. Throttle body service, 3. Fuel induction service, 4. MAF sensor cleaning, 5. Oxygen sensor R&R, 6. Idle control solonoid R&R. Not an inexpensive fix so I spoke with the shop owner and he gave his assurances that the stalling issue would be addressed if all the recommended work was done. OK'd the work and drove home.


2 months later the following happend while driving 60 mph on the highway: car would lurch, momentarily loose power on the highway for a few seconds, and the air bag light would be flashing during this time. A few seconds later, driving returned to normal. This happened a few times. The next day the car unexpectedly lost power while accelerating from a stop light. Pulled to the side and restarted with no problem. Tried to take it into shop the next day but car would crank but not start (again). Towed to shop and now they are saying the ignition switch needs to be replaced.


I've read previous threads describing similar problems and people have recommended the ignition switch as the culprit. I mentioned this to the shop owner and he said that they don't believe that it is related to the stalling issue. (He gave his guarantee that the previous job would fix the stalling issue.) I'm at a loss at what to do at this point - I don't want to give any more money to this shop b/c it seems that they have fixed everything under the sun but the 2 problems. I'm sorry to have written a book on this but I do appreciate any advice you may have!

A faulty ignition switch will most definitely cause stalling. It is caused from a loss of power and the flashing dash lights are an indication of that happening. Honestly, it sounds to me as though the ignition switch is the problem, has been the problem the entire time, and the work they did was unnecessary.

blazee - Thank you for the feedback, I appreciate it.

I agree with Blazee 100%

Nowhere do I see any mention of checking fuel pressure and leakdown! Those should be the FIRST things to check.

There is a thread in the Blazer "How-to" section that explains how to replace the ignition switch.... not all that difficult to do, easily a Saturday afternoon do-it-yourself project.

Thanks again for the input. Honestly, I wish I knew enough about cars to do the fix myself but even with a guide I would be at a total loss. :) I'm going to ask AAA to help mediate this situation b/c I didn't get anywhere with the owner of the shop; he's claiming that they can't be held responsible if the work they completed didn't fix the problem. (???)

Just one more question - could the stalling be related to the no-start problem? Shop owner said he's not convinced that the 2 are related.

You have to test when the problem is ongoing. If it cranks good but won't start, have helper crank it, while you check for spark at the plugs. If you have spark everywhere, use a gage and check fuel pressure. Intermittent issues can be hard to find.

I don't disagree with the other posters,but, this is going to get expensive after a while. I've seen faulty charging system, cause the abs lite to come on, other lites on the dash acted normal, different year and model. It was a GM. I'm just shooting the breeze. Everybody have a good day.

Absolutely the two could be related! Faulty ignition switches on 97 S & T body vehicles has been a known problem for several years. You need to seriously look for a new technician.

Absolutely the two could be related! Faulty ignition switches on 97 S & T body vehicles has been a known problem for several years. You need to seriously look for a new technician.

Intresting post! Couldent the ing swt be tested with a test light, right out of the fuse box. EMC fuse, coil fuse,ect? If the test light is ON when the key is turned ON, the swt would be good I would think.

This guy has been hammered on, to the Max!

A quick update: it appears that a new ignition switch fixed the problem; now the car starts up every time and has not stalled.

But there is another problem that I think is related to the ig switch install - the windshield wipers work when the engine is off and the dashboard light for the head lamps turn on when the lights are turned off.

....But there is another problem that I think is related to the ig switch install - the windshield wipers work when the engine is off and the dashboard light for the head lamps turn on when the lights are turned off.

The wipers staying on could be normal. The wipers are on the Retained Accessory Power, (RAP) circuit which is controlled by a timer and a relay. The RAP circuit is activated when the ignition is turned off for approximately 10 minutes, or a door is opened, whichever occurs first.

The headlight indicator comes on when the Daytime Running Lights, (DRL's) are on. So that might be normal also.