92 PA A/C & Cooling Issues

92 PA with 108555 miles. I live in AZ wear the heat fells like Hades, literally. For about a few months the A/C sometimes don't blow cool air because the vents deep inside the dash gets stuck and I have to ride around for a few minutes before they open. Is there a way to stop the sticking of the vents? Please advise.

Next, today I started the car and pushed the 'A/C' button as I always do, but the 'Economy' light came on and the air was warm. I kept turning it off and pressing the 'A/C' button on, but the 'Economy' light kept coming on. Does this mean there's no freon and it needs to be recharged, or is it a fuse? Whatever it is, is it simple enough for me to do? I'm no idiot but I'm not a full fledge certified auto mechanic neither. I can do some things but nothing major. So whatever answers you have, pile 'em on. Also, please include pricing for such parts and labor.

Your expertice, assistance and advice is appreciated. Thanks so much.

Ellev8or

I had the a/c unit checked for freon and it is full with no leaks. Fuses and relays are good, I believe. The auto mechanic was kind enough to tell me that the system needs to be converted from R112 to R34 to afford me the convenience of purchasing freon for needed recharging. I can't believe that the shops before him was going to charge me $300 to change out two connections that was visibly on top on the line. Unbelievable! He told me nothing else would have to be converted. He also stated that the conversion would allow for evacuating the system, checking for leaks with dye, checking for proper levels of freon and oil, and recharging the system.

Anyway, the a/c climate control console, the panel with two rows of black buttons that is located below the radio in the dash that faces the driver and front passenger, is not working properly. The temperature display blinks when I press the 'a/c' button, but when i press the 'a/c' button the 'economy' button comes on. My guess is that the connections on the board could be loose and needs the wiring reconnected. Would it be near impossible to reconnect the loose wiring or feasible to replace the a/c climate control console? Does the entire dash needs to be taken apart or is just a few screws in a certain location to get to that specific area?

Thanks in advance to you auto mechanic experts.

Ellev8or

The display flashing means you have an climate control code set (most likely low refrigerant). It won't engage compressor as long as display flashes- it is trying to save you from burning up compressor. The display will flash every ignition "on" for 2 minutes, then stop, and remain in econ until you reset the code by unhooking battery fro 10 seconds.

You most likely have a leak- compressor shaft seal is number one location. Find and fix your leak and evac and recharge and reset that low charge code, and you will be fine.

It is okay to convert it to r134a, but I'd have a shop do it that knows a/c.

brcidd,
Thanks for your reply. Three hours ago I had a auto mechanic check the freon levels and he said it was full, however he didn't check for leaks. He also stated that the conversion simply consisted of changing the two connections that are on top on the a/c lines, and that it didn't require nothing else to be changed. Was he correct?

Where is the compressor shaft seal located and is it easy to check for leaks?

Thanks

Thanks for the info. I disconnected the battery like you said, and the a/c is on and cooling again, but for how long. But what I can't understand is why did the mechanic state there was no leaks. I'll take it back to him and have it checked again. If there is no leaks and it's full of freon, then what could be causing the malfunction?

Thanks a bunch.

It is not full of refrigerant....that is why the car is shutting you down!
Your mechanic CANNOT tell how much rferigerant is in there unless he extracts and weighs it-- that is the ONLY way to tell if it is full. If he disagrees, then he does not know a/c and should not be an a/c mechanic.

You have less than half of what you need in there, based on the fact that the system algorithm is shutting you down.

Converting to 134a refrig requires getting most all the old mineral oil out, easiest way is to at least change the accumulator. Good shops flush the system to convert.

Adding refrigerant to a system that has a leak is just like "fixing" your flat tire by putting air in it. Chances are real good, it will just leak out again- primary leak location is the compressor shaft seal (at front of compressor) - if it is oily/greasy, then there is your leak...fix it by replacing seal or replacing compressor.